I have added cabinets to our kitchen using red oak, the exsiting
cabinets
also made from red oak appear to have been finished
"natural" but have
a slightly yellow look, and there is not much contrast of the grain...
very
good looking finish. My cabinets however look like oak, lots of grain,
lots
of contrast and more on the red, orange side...
Any suggestions would be appriciated...
scottsignmart wrote:
> I have added cabinets to our kitchen using red oak, the exsiting
> cabinets
> also made from red oak appear to have been finished
> "natural" but have
> a slightly yellow look, and there is not much contrast of the grain...
> very
> good looking finish. My cabinets however look like oak, lots of grain,
> lots
> of contrast and more on the red, orange side...
>
> Any suggestions would be appriciated...
>
You'll have to use a dye instead of a pigment stain. Either wiped on,
or sprayed on (my preference for maximum grain minimization). I add
yellow and amber dye to fruitwood dye to get than yellowish color you
probably are describing. I shoot the dye with a .026 " tip in my HVLP.
Dave
> "David" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> scottsignmart wrote:
> I have added cabinets to our kitchen using red oak, the exsiting
> cabinets
> also made from red oak appear to have been finished
> "natural" but have a slightly yellow look, and there is
not much contrast
> of the grain...
> very good looking finish. My cabinets however look like oak, lots
of
> grain,
> lots
> of contrast and more on the red, orange side... Any suggestions
would be
> appriciated...
>
> You'll have to use a dye instead of a pigment stain. Either wiped
on, or
> sprayed on (my preference for maximum grain minimization). I add
yellow
> and amber dye to fruitwood dye to get than yellowish color you
probably
> are describing. I shoot the dye with a .026 " tip in my HVLP.
>
>
Disagree the dye, prefer pigment for more consistent and predictable
results. The chemicals which color your oak differently will also
react
differently to chemical dying. Laying tiny pieces of pigmented stuff
on the
surface will increase the amount of yellow returning to your eye,
guaranteed.
Your old cabinets have been bleached by their environment, I would
assume,
and are lighter as a consequence.[/quote
Thanks for your input George,
can suggest a type/brand/color of pigment you're talking...
never tried this before...
Thanks again.
"David" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> scottsignmart wrote:
>> I have added cabinets to our kitchen using red oak, the exsiting
>> cabinets
>> also made from red oak appear to have been finished
>> "natural" but have a slightly yellow look, and there is not much contrast
>> of the grain...
>> very good looking finish. My cabinets however look like oak, lots of
>> grain,
>> lots
>> of contrast and more on the red, orange side... Any suggestions would be
>> appriciated...
>>
> You'll have to use a dye instead of a pigment stain. Either wiped on, or
> sprayed on (my preference for maximum grain minimization). I add yellow
> and amber dye to fruitwood dye to get than yellowish color you probably
> are describing. I shoot the dye with a .026 " tip in my HVLP.
>
Disagree the dye, prefer pigment for more consistent and predictable
results. The chemicals which color your oak differently will also react
differently to chemical dying. Laying tiny pieces of pigmented stuff on the
surface will increase the amount of yellow returning to your eye,
guaranteed.
Your old cabinets have been bleached by their environment, I would assume,
and are lighter as a consequence.
"scottsignmart" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> can suggest a type/brand/color of pigment you're talking...
> never tried this before...
>
An oil stain is pigment suspended in the oil vehicle. Any brand at the
local Borg with a swatch that looks close is the one to try. Easiest to
find is probably Minwax stain - golden oak. Commercial cabinets were
probably stained to equalize anyway.
As Paul R used to say, experiment on scrap rather than your project.
"B A R R Y" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> George wrote:
>
>>
>> An oil stain is pigment suspended in the oil vehicle. Any brand at the
>> local Borg with a swatch that looks close is the one to try. Easiest to
>> find is probably Minwax stain - golden oak.
>
> Minwax Golden Oak is a dye stain, containing no pigment.
So what's that stuff on the bottom that I have to stir?
BT98 wrote:
> Here is a comparison of light or natural to S2 finish oak.
> http://www.shakeramish.com/pages/4/index.htm
>
The S2 looks pretty close to some red oak trim I did by mixing Minwax
Golden Oak approximately 30:70 to 50:50 with Natural, then sealing with
Zinnser Seal Coat, and finishing with two coats of McCloskey Gymseal. I
can't tell exactly due to differences between computer monitors and
sample boards.
The Seal Coat and Gymseal both add a touch of amber over the slight
touch of brown from the diluted GO stain.
Try on scrap and compare. Remember, you won't really get the full
effect of any stain (or wood, for that matter) until you put all of the
sanding sealers and finish coats on.
[email protected] (scottsignmart) wrote in news:w_1Yf.12218$cX5.9460
@fe06.news.easynews.com:
> I have added cabinets to our kitchen using red oak, the exsiting
> cabinets
> also made from red oak appear to have been finished
> "natural" but have
> a slightly yellow look, and there is not much contrast of the grain...
> very
> good looking finish. My cabinets however look like oak, lots of grain,
> lots
> of contrast and more on the red, orange side...
>
> Any suggestions would be appriciated...
>
I read what the other fellows said, and don't necessarily agree.
Red oak turns 'golden' when oiled, or shellaced or varnished. I don't know
the exact chemical or physical reasons, but there is a marked change.
Take some of your scrap, and try out a few of the uncolored finishes on
your shelf on various pieces, and see if you don't get close to what's on
your cabinets.
Then come back and tell us what you found out.
Patriarch
BT98 wrote:
> I recently purchased a solid oak bedroom set from the Amish in north
> east Ohio.
I forgot to mention, clear Gymseal (or Waterlox) over Red Oak results in
the color shown here, in the photos below "MSDS" and "Safety":
<http://www.valspar.com/val/resident/gymseal.jsp>
The pink tint of the raw wood disappears on it's own.
Patriarch wrote:
> [email protected] (scottsignmart) wrote in news:w_1Yf.12218$cX5.9460
> @fe06.news.easynews.com:
>
>
>>I have added cabinets to our kitchen using red oak, the exsiting
>>cabinets
>>also made from red oak appear to have been finished
>>"natural" but have
>>a slightly yellow look, and there is not much contrast of the grain...
>>very
>>good looking finish. My cabinets however look like oak, lots of grain,
>>lots
>>of contrast and more on the red, orange side...
>>
>>Any suggestions would be appriciated...
>>
>
>
> I read what the other fellows said, and don't necessarily agree.
>
> Red oak turns 'golden' when oiled, or shellaced or varnished. I don't know
> the exact chemical or physical reasons, but there is a marked change.
>
> Take some of your scrap, and try out a few of the uncolored finishes on
> your shelf on various pieces, and see if you don't get close to what's on
> your cabinets.
>
> Then come back and tell us what you found out.
>
> Patriarch
That's the trouble with the written word. Who knows what "slightly
yellow" really means? I've got furniture that I'd say is "slightly
yellow" oak, and to get THAT color, I use the dyes I mentioned. Maybe
all the OP needs is a warm toned finish like you mentioned.
Now the OP can take his pick of suggestions.
dave
Patriarch wrote:
> I read what the other fellows said, and don't necessarily agree.
>
> Red oak turns 'golden' when oiled, or shellaced or varnished. I don't know
> the exact chemical or physical reasons, but there is a marked change.
>
> Take some of your scrap, and try out a few of the uncolored finishes on
> your shelf on various pieces, and see if you don't get close to what's on
> your cabinets.
I'll make that two!
My entire house is red oak flooring, trim, and doors, installed and
finished by me. It's a warm, rich, very gold color.
All of my flooring is simply (3) coats of McCloskey Gym Seal clear
oil-based varnish. Most oil varnishes and varnish blends, including
Waterlox Original, would give the same effect.
A light rub down, NOT a soaking, with boiled linseed oil (from any
hardware or paint store) would add also add a golden color under other
finishes.
Commercially made Red Oak cabinetry is very commonly rubbed with BLO,
sealed with a sanding sealer and sprayed with lacquer.
I doubt stain is necessary.
Barry
It's probably just a slight variation of S1. If you can find out what S1 is,
you can figure it out.
"BT98" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I recently purchased a solid oak bedroom set from the Amish in north
> east Ohio. The oak set come with a finish called S2. You have the
> option of light oak, S2 finish or dark oak color. I wonder if anyone
> knows what they would use in a stain to come up with the S2 color or
> finish?
>
BT98 wrote:
> I recently purchased a solid oak bedroom set from the Amish in north
> east Ohio. The oak set come with a finish called S2.
Who named it "S2"? <G>
Finish names placed on finished factory furniture are usually trade
names, kind of like automotive paint. Ex:// I have a Toyota painted
"Radiant Red". The name "Radiant Red" isn't meaningful alone, but with
"Toyota" next to it, the name becomes an exact shade of red.
Got a photo link, brand or dealer name, etc...?
Many commercial wood finishes names are actually process names,
involving some combination of dyes, pigments, toners, and clear coats.
Unlike paint, a wood finish is often more than a simple stain color.
With a little more info, I'm sure someone here can help!
Barry