After years of watching David Marks do his thing with a scraper, i decided
it was time to buy one. I found a decent deal at Lee Valley on the Veritas
set with file, burnisher, holder and 3 cards. I think the honing and
burnishing will be the easy part, learning how to use it will be the tough
one.
My questions is how much can you actually take off with a hand scraper? I
have an old 6" joiner and an old 12" planner, that, no matter how well I
have the blades sharpened, leave noticable tool marks on the wood. Can I
remove these with a scraper or am I just pi*sing in the wind and stuck with
sanding?
Thanks
If you sharpen it propoerly, it works like a charm. But, you need the
sharpening stuff and a little experimentation....
Neil Larson wrote:
> After years of watching David Marks do his thing with a scraper, i
decided
> it was time to buy one. I found a decent deal at Lee Valley on the
Veritas
> set with file, burnisher, holder and 3 cards. I think the honing and
> burnishing will be the easy part, learning how to use it will be the
tough
> one.
>
> My questions is how much can you actually take off with a hand
scraper? I
> have an old 6" joiner and an old 12" planner, that, no matter how
well I
> have the blades sharpened, leave noticable tool marks on the wood.
Can I
> remove these with a scraper or am I just pi*sing in the wind and
stuck with
> sanding?
>
> Thanks
I too bought the LV kit when first learning how to use a scraper. I
tried and tried with mucho frustration. Then I decided that I would try
to use it without the holder. Viola! Shavings on the first try. I put
it back in the holder and still could not do it. Took it out worked
fine. I sent the holder back but kept the file jointer and the dial
burnisher- they're great, but I only got about 9$ for the holder cause
it was part of a package. If you dont have any luck with the holder,
try it freehand- you wont miss it a bit.
Keep the burr sharp and when you start making dust reburnish it.
"George" <george@least> wrote:
>
> Softwood doesn't respond well to scrapers unless you're moving much more
> than pressing. I'm convinced it's more an art than a science there.
I have a nice thin scraper, runs out to garage workshop and applies new
calipers..... they say it is 0.45mm thick. It removes curles of wood on
soft pine and cleans up hand plane digs around the knot holes very
nicely. I have very recently used it to make the glue lines on some edge
glued knotty pine go away. I have also used it to make the ends of
through wedged pine tenons shine (a touch of sanding sealer helped too).
Peter
--
Add my middle initial to email me. It has become attached to a country
"Neil Larson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> After years of watching David Marks do his thing with a scraper, i decided
> it was time to buy one. I found a decent deal at Lee Valley on the Veritas
> set with file, burnisher, holder and 3 cards. I think the honing and
> burnishing will be the easy part, learning how to use it will be the tough
> one.
>
> My questions is how much can you actually take off with a hand scraper? I
> have an old 6" joiner and an old 12" planner, that, no matter how well I
> have the blades sharpened, leave noticable tool marks on the wood. Can I
> remove these with a scraper or am I just pi*sing in the wind and stuck
> with sanding?
>
> Thanks
These, or any scrapers do not come sharp or with a burnished edge. As
others have said, learn to sharpen and turn the different types of edges.
Practice and scrapers will soon become a valuable asset in finishing.
Dave
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"Neil Larson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> After years of watching David Marks do his thing with a scraper, i decided
> it was time to buy one. I found a decent deal at Lee Valley on the Veritas
> set with file, burnisher, holder and 3 cards. I think the honing and
> burnishing will be the easy part, learning how to use it will be the tough
> one.
>
> My questions is how much can you actually take off with a hand scraper? I
> have an old 6" joiner and an old 12" planner, that, no matter how well I
> have the blades sharpened, leave noticable tool marks on the wood. Can I
> remove these with a scraper or am I just pi*sing in the wind and stuck
with
> sanding?
First, the dial-a-burnish is worth every nickel of what it costs. Get it,
it's in one of their packages. Makes your burrs much more predictable, and
saves you the occasional finger gash you will otherwise acquire as you run
off the edge of your scraper, or it rotates in the vise and cuts the heel of
you hand. With that, and the directions that go with it, you will be able
to keep two or three degrees of aggressiveness available. I keep mine in
labeled slots, but still give a thumbnail check before I use 'em.
Softwood doesn't respond well to scrapers unless you're moving much more
than pressing. I'm convinced it's more an art than a science there.
For hardwood, the scraper is a great tool for removing mill marks. Not the
equal of a regular plane in speed, but with a medium burr, minimum bow, and
a skew angle that bridges several marks, it'll clean up even the worst -
those places where you might even see a bit of cutter burn. Once the cutter
marks are gone, go to a fine burr, larger bow, and scrape with less skew for
a finish you'll hate to hit with sandpaper.
If your jointer or planer blades are so bad that you get a burnished
surface, the kind with shiny valleys and sort of crushed separators, dampen
the wood first, and let it dry. It'll save you having to go back to catch
burnished areas you missed which aren't taking finish like the rest.
Thanks for all the info, The set will be in on Saturday and I'm sure I'll
spend the day playing with it.
"Neil Larson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> After years of watching David Marks do his thing with a scraper, i decided
> it was time to buy one. I found a decent deal at Lee Valley on the Veritas
> set with file, burnisher, holder and 3 cards. I think the honing and
> burnishing will be the easy part, learning how to use it will be the tough
> one.
>
> My questions is how much can you actually take off with a hand scraper? I
> have an old 6" joiner and an old 12" planner, that, no matter how well I
> have the blades sharpened, leave noticable tool marks on the wood. Can I
> remove these with a scraper or am I just pi*sing in the wind and stuck
> with sanding?
>
> Thanks
>
"J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
<snip>
> How much you can take off, once you master the art of sharpening the
> scraper, really depends on how hard the wood is and how much patience you
> have. You can take off more than you intended more easily than you would
> expect.
>
> Don't let the word "scraper" fool you, it's a cutting tool.
>
<snip>
I invariably take off more than I intend...*sigh*
Cheers -
Rob
"Neil Larson" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> After years of watching David Marks do his thing with a scraper, i
> decided it was time to buy one. I found a decent deal at Lee Valley on
> the Veritas set with file, burnisher, holder and 3 cards. I think the
> honing and burnishing will be the easy part, learning how to use it
> will be the tough one.
>
> My questions is how much can you actually take off with a hand
> scraper? I have an old 6" joiner and an old 12" planner, that, no
> matter how well I have the blades sharpened, leave noticable tool
> marks on the wood. Can I remove these with a scraper or am I just
> pi*sing in the wind and stuck with sanding?
>
> Thanks
>
Your experience may vary considerably from mine. I found that the using
was the easy part, and that the sharpening and turning the burr was the
challenging part. When I need to tune up my card scrapers, I gather
them all up, review the Brian Boggs instructional video on the Fine
Woodworking site, and then do all of them. And then I put it off until
they are all too dull to use properly, and I have to start the cycle
again.
A hand scraper is supposed to remove whisper thin curly shavings, no
more. When you get dust, you need to put a new edge to work.
The good news is that a scraped and/or planed surface, on the proper
wood, has a look and feel that seems unobtainable with sandpaper. The
bad news is that the jointer and the planer are always going to leave
you with something that needs tuning up. That's just the way it is.
The Veritas is supposed to be as good as any, and reasonably priced. I
mostly use card scrapers, but have a Lie Nielsen 85, because it is a
beautiful piece of work, inspiring to look at, but almost too pretty to
use.
Patriarch
"Neil Larson" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> After years of watching David Marks do his thing with a scraper, i
> decided it was time to buy one. I found a decent deal at Lee Valley on
> the Veritas set with file, burnisher, holder and 3 cards. I think the
> honing and burnishing will be the easy part, learning how to use it
> will be the tough one.
I think the honing and burnishing are the hardest parts to get right.
Once you have a scraper with a good hook, learning to use it is pretty
easy -- you can feel it and see it when it's cutting right.
> My questions is how much can you actually take off with a hand
> scraper? I have an old 6" joiner and an old 12" planner, that, no
> matter how well I have the blades sharpened, leave noticable tool
> marks on the wood. Can I remove these with a scraper or am I just
> pi*sing in the wind and stuck with sanding?
Sure, you can use a scraper to remove plane marks.
Neil Larson wrote:
> After years of watching David Marks do his thing with a scraper, i decided
> it was time to buy one. I found a decent deal at Lee Valley on the Veritas
> set with file, burnisher, holder and 3 cards. I think the honing and
> burnishing will be the easy part, learning how to use it will be the tough
> one.
>
> My questions is how much can you actually take off with a hand scraper? I
> have an old 6" joiner and an old 12" planner, that, no matter how well I
> have the blades sharpened, leave noticable tool marks on the wood. Can I
> remove these with a scraper or am I just pi*sing in the wind and stuck
> with sanding?
How much you can take off, once you master the art of sharpening the
scraper, really depends on how hard the wood is and how much patience you
have. You can take off more than you intended more easily than you would
expect.
Don't let the word "scraper" fool you, it's a cutting tool.
> Thanks
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
Neil Larson wrote:
> My questions is how much can you actually take off with a hand scraper? I
> have an old 6" joiner and an old 12" planner, that, no matter how well I
> have the blades sharpened, leave noticable tool marks on the wood. Can I
> remove these with a scraper
Yes.
>or am I just pi*sing in the wind and stuck with
> sanding?
No.
Check out the Veritas Cabinet Scraper.
<http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&cat=1,310&p=46266>
You can scrape longer, take deeper cuts, and it's easier to use than a
scraper blade alone. Heavy use with a hand scraper usually requires
good gloves as the blade gets pretty hot.
Barry