I'm still on my quest for a good set of mortise chisels. When I last
posted, I was referred to Jim Wilson for his hand-made chisels, but
sadly he wrote back to me today indicating that he's getting back out of
the chisel business. He's filling his backlog of orders, but not
accepting any more.
I ventured a peek at the offerings on the Japan Woodworker website. I'm
sure these are fine tools, but the price seems a bit stratospheric for
my budget. And finally I'm managed to wander around to the point of
this message. Look at the picture they've got on their web site:
http://www.japanwoodworker.com/product.asp?s=JapanWoodworker&pf_id=16.303
.09&dept_id=11592
http://tinyurl.com/r1u1
The detail on the right shows what I assume are front, back, and side
views of the chisel. I don't understand the middle (back view) image.
I'm assuming the back is flat, but the picture makes it look like it's
oval with beveled edges. Is this just an artifact of the way it's
photographed? It's got to be flat on the back, yes?
On Wed, 15 Oct 2003 14:17:02 -0400, Roy Smith <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>The detail on the right shows what I assume are front, back, and side
>views of the chisel. I don't understand the middle (back view) image.
>I'm assuming the back is flat, but the picture makes it look like it's
>oval with beveled edges. Is this just an artifact of the way it's
>photographed? It's got to be flat on the back, yes?
Not quite, there's a hollow in the back as on other Japanese chisels. The flats on the
sides serve as guides
I've got two of them, and all my future mortise chisels are going to be Japanese. You may
find, as I did, that the edge tends to chip very slightly if you work hardwoods. I honed a
secondary bevel at a higher angle using a Veritas jig, and had no further trouble. I also
found that I had to adjust my technique slightly, as a Japanse mortise chisel's handle is
not lined up the same way as a European, and the cross-section of the blade is different.
Also, if you're going Japanese, I would advise you to try a barrel-shaped hammer with your
mortising chisels; the difference from a mallet is amazing, in terms of both accuracy and
speed (they're on the facing page to the chisels in the Japan Woodworker catalog).
Only one P in my real address/ Un seul P dans ma véritable adresse
Roy Smith <[email protected]> wrote:
>this message. Look at the picture they've got on their web site:
>
>http://www.japanwoodworker.com/product.asp?s=JapanWoodworker&pf_id=16.303
>.09&dept_id=11592
>
>http://tinyurl.com/r1u1
>
>The detail on the right shows what I assume are front, back, and side
>views of the chisel. I don't understand the middle (back view) image.
>I'm assuming the back is flat, but the picture makes it look like it's
>oval with beveled edges. Is this just an artifact of the way it's
>photographed? It's got to be flat on the back, yes?
I think what you are seeing is the hollowed out back. The areas just
behind the cutting edge and adjacent to the two sides are coplanar,
and guide your cut.
--
Alex
Make the obvious change in the return address to reply by email.
As I recall, Japanese chisels are laminated and the back is hollow-ground or
hammered that way to minimize resistance and probably a dozen other good
scientific reasons for doing it that way.
As for chisels, the Nov issue of Popular Woodworking has a small article
about chisels on pg 28. "Ashley Iles American Pattern Bevel-edge Chisels".
FWW has a special issue "Tool Guide" out for selecting tools that >> may <<
be of help. Check their respective sites.
Bob S.
Also takes less time to flatten the back when you need to.
At least until you have worked your way back to the hollow area.
-Jack
"bs" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> As I recall, Japanese chisels are laminated and the back is hollow-ground
or
> hammered that way to minimize resistance and probably a dozen other good
> scientific reasons for doing it that way.
>
> As for chisels, the Nov issue of Popular Woodworking has a small article
> about chisels on pg 28. "Ashley Iles American Pattern Bevel-edge
Chisels".
> FWW has a special issue "Tool Guide" out for selecting tools that >> may
<<
> be of help. Check their respective sites.
>
> Bob S.
>
>
Roy Smith <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
assorted snips
> I'm still on my quest for a good set of mortise chisels. I was referred to Jim Wilson He's not accepting any more.
>
> I ventured a peek at the offerings on the Japan Woodworker website.
Sorry if you've discussed this in a previous thread, but have you
looked at Sorby and Barr?
On Wed, 15 Oct 2003 14:17:02 -0400, Roy Smith <[email protected]> wrote:
>I ventured a peek at the offerings on the Japan Woodworker website. I'm
>sure these are fine tools, but the price seems a bit stratospheric for
>my budget.
Try Iyoroi. They're the low end of Japanese, about the same price as
Sorby or Henry Taylor, and quite affordable. Although they're not as
attractive as hand-forged or pattern welded chisels, they are
laminated and handle much the same. Like most cheap Japanese chisels,
the hollow back is formed by grinding, not forging.
Personally I favour Japanese for bench chisels, but not for heavy
morticing. I have mortice chisels, but I wouldn't use them in a deep
mortice where I'm levering chips out. The Japanese tradition here is
to use three chisels; two of which are "harpoon" chisels with small
side-cutting edges, used to sever these chips with an almost
"scraping" sideways action. Personally though I just switch to a big
old Marples and lean on the end.
--
Die Gotterspammerung - Junkmail of the Gods
Barr Quarton will make whatever you want.
--
Ross
www.myoldtools.com
"NFrames" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Roy Smith <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:<[email protected]>...
>
> assorted snips
>
> > I'm still on my quest for a good set of mortise chisels. I was referred
to Jim Wilson He's not accepting any more.
> >
> > I ventured a peek at the offerings on the Japan Woodworker website.
>
> Sorry if you've discussed this in a previous thread, but have you
> looked at Sorby and Barr?