This is about 3/16 thick hardboard, the hard as nails oiled stuff I guess.
It was recommended for a benchtop.
Should I glue it down? It will be on MDF and bounces a bit just laying there. I
might need to get it off someday to replace it.
Is there any reason to finish this stuff. I was going to give it a coat of
Briwax and that's about it.
I would not glue it down -- I'd screw it down with countersunk holes
and just make sure I never ran a tool over the screws. My friends
who've (ok my friend singular) used hardboard as a bench top don't even
finish it -- they just replace it every couple of years....
Jim wrote:
> This is about 3/16 thick hardboard, the hard as nails oiled stuff I guess.
> It was recommended for a benchtop.
> Should I glue it down? It will be on MDF and bounces a bit just laying there. I
> might need to get it off someday to replace it.
> Is there any reason to finish this stuff. I was going to give it a coat of
> Briwax and that's about it.
Never Enough Money wrote:
> I would not glue it down -- I'd screw it down with countersunk holes
> and just make sure I never ran a tool over the screws. My friends
> who've (ok my friend singular) used hardboard as a bench top don't even
> finish it -- they just replace it every couple of years....
>
>
> Jim wrote:
> > This is about 3/16 thick hardboard, the hard as nails oiled stuff I guess.
> > It was recommended for a benchtop.
> > Should I glue it down? It will be on MDF and bounces a bit just laying there. I
> > might need to get it off someday to replace it.
> > Is there any reason to finish this stuff. I was going to give it a coat of
> > Briwax and that's about it.
If you do that, use brass screws. They are only more expensive up to
the first time you hit one with a chisel, plane blade, drill bit or
saw.
--
FF
What about hot glue? You can iron it on (if you're really patient).
max
> Jim wrote:
>> This is about 3/16 thick hardboard, the hard as nails oiled stuff I guess.
>> It was recommended for a benchtop.
>> Should I glue it down? It will be on MDF and bounces a bit just laying there.
>> I
>> might need to get it off someday to replace it.
>> Is there any reason to finish this stuff. I was going to give it a coat of
>> Briwax and that's about it.
>>
>
> I would not either glue or screw this material down.
>
> Might consider attaching some fiddles out of something like 1x3 material
> to the sides of the bench that traps the material.
>
> Simple to replace when ever necessary.
>
> Lew
>
"Jim" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> This is about 3/16 thick hardboard, the hard as nails oiled stuff I guess.
> It was recommended for a benchtop.
> Should I glue it down? It will be on MDF and bounces a bit just laying
> there. I
> might need to get it off someday to replace it.
> Is there any reason to finish this stuff. I was going to give it a coat of
> Briwax and that's about it.
>
Jim wrote:
> This is about 3/16 thick hardboard, the hard as nails oiled stuff I guess.
> It was recommended for a benchtop.
> Should I glue it down? It will be on MDF and bounces a bit just laying there. I
> might need to get it off someday to replace it.
> Is there any reason to finish this stuff. I was going to give it a coat of
> Briwax and that's about it.
>
I would not either glue or screw this material down.
Might consider attaching some fiddles out of something like 1x3 material
to the sides of the bench that traps the material.
Simple to replace when ever necessary.
Lew
On Wed, 19 Oct 2005 01:55:57 GMT, max <[email protected]> wrote:
>What about hot glue? You can iron it on (if you're really patient).
>max
>
I though about that.
I screwed it down and waxed it with Briwax.
The hardboard is absolutely beautiful now. This is the really dark brown stuff.
It looks so nice I hate to work on it. Like brown marble.
I'm buying another sheet for my table saw side and outfeed tables.
I have hardboard on my bench. It is screwed down. It is my second one - the
first one lasted about 10 years.
Dick
"Jim" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> This is about 3/16 thick hardboard, the hard as nails oiled stuff I guess.
> It was recommended for a benchtop.
> Should I glue it down? It will be on MDF and bounces a bit just laying
> there. I
> might need to get it off someday to replace it.
> Is there any reason to finish this stuff. I was going to give it a coat of
> Briwax and that's about it.
>
On 18 Oct 2005 10:01:39 -0700, [email protected] wrote:
>
>Never Enough Money wrote:
>> I would not glue it down -- I'd screw it down with countersunk holes
>> and just make sure I never ran a tool over the screws. My friends
>> who've (ok my friend singular) used hardboard as a bench top don't even
>> finish it -- they just replace it every couple of years....
>>
>>
>> Jim wrote:
>> > This is about 3/16 thick hardboard, the hard as nails oiled stuff I guess.
>> > It was recommended for a benchtop.
>> > Should I glue it down? It will be on MDF and bounces a bit just laying there. I
>> > might need to get it off someday to replace it.
>> > Is there any reason to finish this stuff. I was going to give it a coat of
>> > Briwax and that's about it.
>
>If you do that, use brass screws. They are only more expensive up to
>the first time you hit one with a chisel, plane blade, drill bit or
>saw.
Thanks
I used small brass screws. Cheap on's from the $tore. Yep I checked, they are
real brass.:)
I had a chunk of hardboard left over just a bit bigger than my tablesaw top so I
put a little frame on it to keep it in place and now I feel a bit better about
using my table saw as a workbench. At least I won't have lumps of glue buggering
up my saw cuts.:)
Speaking of real brass has anyone noticed that those cheap bastards from Porter
Cable supply their compressors with brass PLATED fittings for their air hoses. I
found this out when I left my air hoses outside this summer and they rusted.