I'm so excited to finally have 220v for my unisaw - the first few cuts were
just amazing. Very quickly did I realize I will need some featherboards. As
easy as they are to make, attaching them to the saw's top and unifence is
less obvious - I'd like to avoid having to use clamps every time.
I found the obvious T-tracks etc that could be attached to a sacrificial
fence, or even the replacement unifence fence which has integral T-track
all over.
I'd like to keep cost low however, and the challenge of making something is
more fun than slapping (too much) money down. Has anyone made a mechanism
that clamps inside the miter groove? And what about attaching to the
unifence for downward pressure/guidance?
Regards,
Pieter
On Thu, 08 Jan 2004 20:55:09 GMT, Pieter Ruiter
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I'm so excited to finally have 220v for my unisaw - the first few cuts were
>just amazing. Very quickly did I realize I will need some featherboards. As
>easy as they are to make, attaching them to the saw's top and unifence is
>less obvious - I'd like to avoid having to use clamps every time.
>
>I found the obvious T-tracks etc that could be attached to a sacrificial
>fence, or even the replacement unifence fence which has integral T-track
>all over.
>
>I'd like to keep cost low however, and the challenge of making something is
>more fun than slapping (too much) money down. Has anyone made a mechanism
>that clamps inside the miter groove? And what about attaching to the
>unifence for downward pressure/guidance?
>
>Regards,
>Pieter
my table saw has t slots for the miter guage. I made a hardwood runner
that engages the t slots and has a nut recessed into the bottom of it
to recieve a knob above the table. the knob secures a dog that holds
down a featherboard. works pretty well.
I did it this way because the point loading of a sliding nut made me
nervous. prolly being anal, but it would suck to chip the t slot....
Bridger
Pieter Ruiter wrote:
> I'm so excited to finally have 220v for my unisaw - the first few
> cuts were just amazing. Very quickly did I realize I will need some
> featherboards. As easy as they are to make, attaching them to the
> saw's top and unifence is less obvious - I'd like to avoid having to
> use clamps every time.
>
> I found the obvious T-tracks etc that could be attached to a
> sacrificial fence, or even the replacement unifence fence which has
> integral T-track all over.
>
> I'd like to keep cost low however, and the challenge of making
> something is more fun than slapping (too much) money down. Has anyone
> made a mechanism that clamps inside the miter groove? And what about
> attaching to the unifence for downward pressure/guidance?
>
> Regards,
> Pieter
Here's one that fits in the miter slot
http://www.woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPRES.exe?PARTNUM=801-407
As for downward pressure using the unifence, make a feather board and clamp
it.
--
Gary
111,111,111 x 111,111,111 = 12,345,678,987,654,321
"Pieter Ruiter" writes:
<snip>
> I'd like to keep cost low however, and the challenge of making something
is
> more fun than slapping (too much) money down. Has anyone made a mechanism
> that clamps inside the miter groove? And what about attaching to the
> unifence for downward pressure/guidance?
SFWIW, the following has worked for me.
Build a sacrificial fence using two (2) pieces of 3/4", 13 ply Birch that is
about 8" high, glued together which provides a 1/2" thick fence.
Why 1-1/2" thick?
Look at the Unifence calibration markings.
The space on the scale between the "inside" "outside" markings is 1-1/2".
Makes a no brainer out of setting the fence.
Installed a piece of 3/4" miter track about 5"-6" from the bottom edge of
the sacrificial fence the full length of the fence.
Bought a couple of ready made feather boards complete with knob and 3'4"
aluminum stock that slides in miter track.
At less than $5 apiece, it wasn't worth my time to make something.
Works for me.
YMMV
--
Lew
S/A: Challenge, The Bullet Proof Boat, (Under Construction in the Southland)
Visit: <http://home.earthlink.net/~lewhodgett> for Pictures
exactly what I needed! Thanks a lot Bill. The slider design is where I was
confused - but not anymore ;-))
Pieter
"Pounds on Wood" <[email protected]> wrote in news:vvtq552q3bvda5
@corp.supernews.com:
> http://www.bill.pounds.net/woodshop
I have a free plan for this on my site. Link below.
--
Bill Pounds
http://www.bill.pounds.net/woodshop
"Pieter Ruiter" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm so excited to finally have 220v for my unisaw - the first few cuts
were
> just amazing. Very quickly did I realize I will need some featherboards.
As
> easy as they are to make, attaching them to the saw's top and unifence is
> less obvious - I'd like to avoid having to use clamps every time.
>
> I found the obvious T-tracks etc that could be attached to a sacrificial
> fence, or even the replacement unifence fence which has integral T-track
> all over.
>
> I'd like to keep cost low however, and the challenge of making something
is
> more fun than slapping (too much) money down. Has anyone made a mechanism
> that clamps inside the miter groove? And what about attaching to the
> unifence for downward pressure/guidance?
>
> Regards,
> Pieter