Sometime poster, mostly lurker... :-)
A friend of mine asked me to build a frame to
display a map of the U.S.A. The map was given to me folded like a
typical road map. The map is of higher quality and thicker paper than
a typical road map.
I wish to mount the map on a piece of 1/4" hardboard and install that
in a wooden frame with a piece of plexy (sp ?) glass in front. The
map is about 27" wide by 18" high.
If anyone has an answer to the following two questions it would be
appreciated :
1. How can I flatten the map in preparation for mounting. Use a normal
household iron on low heat ?
2. What kind of glue should I use to affix the map to the hardboard,
and not "wet" the map so much that it will wrinkle up etc..
I thought I had seen this done on a HGTV show,
but cannot remember the manner used to adhere the paper to the hardboard
backing.
--
Bob Kuphal -- Wisconsin
Remove NOSPAM to email
All,
Thanks for the advice, the map is not particularly valuable. I believe
I will use a mat board in the front, and mount it to the hardboard
backing with the 3M spray adhesive, and slowly roll it onto the
hardboard with a rolling pin. My BIL bought the map folded, so he
will be stuck with the fine lines already in the map.. :-( Guess I will
start flatting it between a couple pieces of 1/2" MDO I got left over
and see what it looks like in a week.
I will ask at my local (somewhat) Hobby Lobby store in the frameing
dept. what spray adhesive to use, they should know. Thats where I will
have to buy the mat board anyway.
Bob Kuphal wrote:
> Sometime poster, mostly lurker... :-)
>
> A friend of mine asked me to build a frame to
> display a map of the U.S.A. The map was given to me folded like a
> typical road map. The map is of higher quality and thicker paper than
> a typical road map.
>
> I wish to mount the map on a piece of 1/4" hardboard and install that
> in a wooden frame with a piece of plexy (sp ?) glass in front. The
> map is about 27" wide by 18" high.
>
> If anyone has an answer to the following two questions it would be
> appreciated :
>
> 1. How can I flatten the map in preparation for mounting. Use a normal
> household iron on low heat ?
>
> 2. What kind of glue should I use to affix the map to the hardboard,
> and not "wet" the map so much that it will wrinkle up etc..
>
> I thought I had seen this done on a HGTV show,
> but cannot remember the manner used to adhere the paper to the hardboard
> backing.
--
Bob Kuphal -- Wisconsin
Remove DontSpam to email
Charlie:
Have to check on that, and see what it costs. Thanks
Charlie Spitzer wrote:
> you can get it dry mounted in the same place. they use a vacuum press so it
> will come out without any bubbles.
>
> "Bob Kuphal" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
--
Bob Kuphal -- Wisconsin
Remove DontSpam to email
Ron,
Thanks for the information. Looks I should mount it on poster board,
then use some hardboard as a backing when placing the map/poster board
in the frame.
So you don't see a need for plexy or glass in the front hum ?
What about a mat board in the front for an edging ??
Thanks..
Ron Magen wrote:
> Bob,
> I have several NOAA Nautical Charts mounted & framed. {One is of Frenchman's
> Bay, & Mt. Desert Island, Maine, where we went on our honeymoon . . . we
> just had our 30th, and the chart is still smooth & flat}. That Chart was
> mounted the old 'Traditional' way by a 'dedicated' framer.
>
> I mounted several other Charts over the years. I had them mounted by a local
> 'framing shop' using a 'modern method'. Instead of the expensive 'museum
> board' backing, and enclosing the back of the frame, they 'dry mounted'
> {good}them on to 'Foam Core Board' {good}, but DIDN'T dry mount anything
> onto the BACK of the board {BAD}.
>
> This method {& materials} is relatively inexpensive and good . . . HOWEVER .
> . . they MUST mound something {a paper of equal weight to what ever is
> mounted on the face is ideal} on the BACK . . . even simple 'brown bag'
> paper could do. What happens is, as the humidity changes, and time effects
> the 'surface image', it contracts and the board 'cups'. When the 'subject'
> is LARGE, like a Chart, it tends to 'pop' it out of the frame.
>
> None of the Charts are 'under glass'. No real reason for the expense, and
> WEIGHT. Typically, a 'matt' is to hold the glass away from the surface of a
> photograph, so the 'gelatin' doesn't stick to the glass, or cause 'Newton
> Ring' distortion. A secondary reason is for 'cosmetics', like the trim on a
> house.
>
> Regards & Good Luck,
> Ron Magen
> Backyard Boatshop
>
> PS: I also mounted some 16x20 photo seascapes {printed from 4x5
> transparencies}from a couple of other trips. Mounted them the 'correct' way
> and they are still fine.
>
> "Charlie Spitzer" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
--
Bob Kuphal -- Wisconsin
Remove DontSpam to email
Greetings and Salutations.
On Mon, 29 Sep 2003 17:00:44 GMT, "Rob Stokes" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I'd not mount it directly to the hardboard (it may bleed) , I'd look at
>mounting it on poster backing board (non-acidic) or ???? first. I'd also
>not iron it or glue it (guaranteed wrinkles unless you use a "specialized"
>adhesive used by frame shops) ) and would mount it under non-glare glass
>that blocks UV light (plexi will yellow and scratch) . You may want to see a
>frame shop for the source(s) and they can probably give you a hint or two as
>well...
>
I agree. Also, it depends on how "valuable" the map is.
Sounds like this is not a particularly valuable one, though, so I
suspect that simple mat board would do nicely.
>For flattening the map, open it up, lay it on the poster board on top of the
>backer bard and leave it there for the day or two it takes to
>design.cut/build/finish the frame. It'll be flat by the time you need it.
>
This works. Alternatively the process of mounting the map to
the mat board will likely flatten it enough, depending on how long it
has been folded and how bad the creases are.
>The difference between doing it cheaply and doing it right may be a few
>bucks but in the long run, the product will be far better by doing it right.
>
An excellent point. If I don't have time to do it right the
first time, I REALLY don't have time to redo it.
There are a couple of viable ways of mounting the map, either
of which can produce a good, flat mount. First off, there is
Scotchtac (Spray adhesive). It is sort of a rubber cement in a spray
container, and, comes in different formulations for different levels
of "stick". I tend to use the one with "77" on the can, as it blends
strength of hold with the ability to remove. I find that if I spray
ONE surface, I can get the pieces apart - with some work. If I spray
BOTH surfaces, it is together "forever". In the case of the map,
though, I think that even ONE surface sprayed would be a "forever"
thing, so don't screw it up. I would spray the mat board, and then,
carefully, roll the map onto it, starting either at one edge or
(preferably) the center, using a rolling pin to flatten it out as I
went along. The one problem with this is that, over time (10 years
or so) the mounted item CAN wrinkle a bit.
Alternatively, there is a "hot mount" process that is REALLY
great. This uses a thin sheet of hot glue that is sandwiched between
the map and the backing. The whole thing is then put in a very hot
press for a few seconds, melting the glue and bonding things together.
This is permanent...period. For something like the map, though,
which is probably too big for a press, either it can be ironed on,
or, MIGHT be able to press in sections. The other good news is that
the glue is quite neutral, so, will not damage the mounted item.
A lot of photographs are mounted this way....
Of course, there is also not mounting it at all (which is the
most flexible thing. Simply get the map flat (above process, or
ironing), then, sandwich it in between the glass front and a mat board
backing. It will not move, and, if changes are desired in the future,
they can be done with little pain. Of course, this only works if
there IS a glass front. If the map is to be mounted with NO cover,
then, one of the first two processes will have to do.
Regards
Dave Mundt
I'd not mount it directly to the hardboard (it may bleed) , I'd look at
mounting it on poster backing board (non-acidic) or ???? first. I'd also
not iron it or glue it (guaranteed wrinkles unless you use a "specialized"
adhesive used by frame shops) ) and would mount it under non-glare glass
that blocks UV light (plexi will yellow and scratch) . You may want to see a
frame shop for the source(s) and they can probably give you a hint or two as
well...
For flattening the map, open it up, lay it on the poster board on top of the
backer bard and leave it there for the day or two it takes to
design.cut/build/finish the frame. It'll be flat by the time you need it.
The difference between doing it cheaply and doing it right may be a few
bucks but in the long run, the product will be far better by doing it right.
Good luck
Rob
http://www.robswoodworking.com
"Bob Kuphal" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Sometime poster, mostly lurker... :-)
>
> A friend of mine asked me to build a frame to
> display a map of the U.S.A. The map was given to me folded like a
> typical road map. The map is of higher quality and thicker paper than
> a typical road map.
>
> I wish to mount the map on a piece of 1/4" hardboard and install that
> in a wooden frame with a piece of plexy (sp ?) glass in front. The
> map is about 27" wide by 18" high.
>
> If anyone has an answer to the following two questions it would be
> appreciated :
>
> 1. How can I flatten the map in preparation for mounting. Use a normal
> household iron on low heat ?
>
> 2. What kind of glue should I use to affix the map to the hardboard,
> and not "wet" the map so much that it will wrinkle up etc..
>
> I thought I had seen this done on a HGTV show,
> but cannot remember the manner used to adhere the paper to the hardboard
> backing.
> --
>
> Bob Kuphal -- Wisconsin
>
> Remove NOSPAM to email
>
>
>
Bob,
"What ever you do to the front - do to the back" . The idea is to balance
the forces.
Rather than poster board {and you should use 'Museum' or 'Archival' grade},
I'd go with dry mounting to Foam Core. I would INSIST that they also mount
some 'map weight' blank paper to the rear surface.
At that point you can frame it, 'as is', in a modern 'channel-type' frame.
No 'physical' reason for glass or plexi . If the map is of great importance
or significance, and you want to protect it from people touching it - then
enclose it. THEN, you would NEED a matt to hold the glass away from actually
contact with the map. Otherwise, matting is a personal & cosmetic thing. If
the edges are torn or 'ratty', then it would certainly improve the
appearance.
Regards & Good Luck,
Ron Magen
Backyard Boatshop
"Bob Kuphal" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Ron,
>
> Thanks for the information. Looks I should mount it on poster board,
> then use some hardboard as a backing when placing the map/poster board
> in the frame.
>
> So you don't see a need for plexy or glass in the front hum ?
> What about a mat board in the front for an edging ??
>
> Thanks..
>
> Ron Magen wrote:
> > Bob,
> > I have several NOAA Nautical Charts mounted & framed. {One is of
Frenchman's
> > Bay, & Mt. Desert Island, Maine, where we went on our honeymoon . . . we
> > just had our 30th, and the chart is still smooth & flat}. That Chart was
> > mounted the old 'Traditional' way by a 'dedicated' framer.
> >
> > I mounted several other Charts over the years. I had them mounted by a
local
> > 'framing shop' using a 'modern method'. Instead of the expensive 'museum
> > board' backing, and enclosing the back of the frame, they 'dry mounted'
> > {good}them on to 'Foam Core Board' {good}, but DIDN'T dry mount anything
> > onto the BACK of the board {BAD}.
> >
> > This method {& materials} is relatively inexpensive and good . . .
HOWEVER .
> > . . they MUST mound something {a paper of equal weight to what ever is
> > mounted on the face is ideal} on the BACK . . . even simple 'brown bag'
> > paper could do. What happens is, as the humidity changes, and time
effects
> > the 'surface image', it contracts and the board 'cups'. When the
'subject'
> > is LARGE, like a Chart, it tends to 'pop' it out of the frame.
> >
> > None of the Charts are 'under glass'. No real reason for the expense,
and
> > WEIGHT. Typically, a 'matt' is to hold the glass away from the surface
of a
> > photograph, so the 'gelatin' doesn't stick to the glass, or cause
'Newton
> > Ring' distortion. A secondary reason is for 'cosmetics', like the trim
on a
> > house.
> >
> > Regards & Good Luck,
> > Ron Magen
> > Backyard Boatshop
> >
> > PS: I also mounted some 16x20 photo seascapes {printed from 4x5
> > transparencies}from a couple of other trips. Mounted them the 'correct'
way
> > and they are still fine.
> >
> > "Charlie Spitzer" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
>
> --
>
> Bob Kuphal -- Wisconsin
>
> Remove DontSpam to email
>
you can get it dry mounted in the same place. they use a vacuum press so it
will come out without any bubbles.
"Bob Kuphal" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> All,
>
> Thanks for the advice, the map is not particularly valuable. I believe
> I will use a mat board in the front, and mount it to the hardboard
> backing with the 3M spray adhesive, and slowly roll it onto the
> hardboard with a rolling pin. My BIL bought the map folded, so he
> will be stuck with the fine lines already in the map.. :-( Guess I will
> start flatting it between a couple pieces of 1/2" MDO I got left over
> and see what it looks like in a week.
>
> I will ask at my local (somewhat) Hobby Lobby store in the frameing
> dept. what spray adhesive to use, they should know. Thats where I will
> have to buy the mat board anyway.
>
> Bob Kuphal wrote:
> > Sometime poster, mostly lurker... :-)
> >
> > A friend of mine asked me to build a frame to
> > display a map of the U.S.A. The map was given to me folded like a
> > typical road map. The map is of higher quality and thicker paper than
> > a typical road map.
> >
> > I wish to mount the map on a piece of 1/4" hardboard and install that
> > in a wooden frame with a piece of plexy (sp ?) glass in front. The
> > map is about 27" wide by 18" high.
> >
> > If anyone has an answer to the following two questions it would be
> > appreciated :
> >
> > 1. How can I flatten the map in preparation for mounting. Use a normal
> > household iron on low heat ?
> >
> > 2. What kind of glue should I use to affix the map to the hardboard,
> > and not "wet" the map so much that it will wrinkle up etc..
> >
> > I thought I had seen this done on a HGTV show,
> > but cannot remember the manner used to adhere the paper to the hardboard
> > backing.
>
>
> --
>
> Bob Kuphal -- Wisconsin
>
> Remove DontSpam to email
>
>
>
You can use an iron to flaten it but be aware that once a map is folded, the
fold lines will be there forever. This is why good maps and blueprints are
rolled. Use photo spray mount to stick it down. Roll it flat with a rolling
pin.
"Bob Kuphal" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Sometime poster, mostly lurker... :-)
>
> A friend of mine asked me to build a frame to
> display a map of the U.S.A. The map was given to me folded like a
> typical road map. The map is of higher quality and thicker paper than
> a typical road map.
>
> I wish to mount the map on a piece of 1/4" hardboard and install that
> in a wooden frame with a piece of plexy (sp ?) glass in front. The
> map is about 27" wide by 18" high.
>
> If anyone has an answer to the following two questions it would be
> appreciated :
>
> 1. How can I flatten the map in preparation for mounting. Use a normal
> household iron on low heat ?
>
> 2. What kind of glue should I use to affix the map to the hardboard,
> and not "wet" the map so much that it will wrinkle up etc..
>
> I thought I had seen this done on a HGTV show,
> but cannot remember the manner used to adhere the paper to the hardboard
> backing.
> --
>
> Bob Kuphal -- Wisconsin
>
> Remove NOSPAM to email
>
>
>
Bob,
I have several NOAA Nautical Charts mounted & framed. {One is of Frenchman's
Bay, & Mt. Desert Island, Maine, where we went on our honeymoon . . . we
just had our 30th, and the chart is still smooth & flat}. That Chart was
mounted the old 'Traditional' way by a 'dedicated' framer.
I mounted several other Charts over the years. I had them mounted by a local
'framing shop' using a 'modern method'. Instead of the expensive 'museum
board' backing, and enclosing the back of the frame, they 'dry mounted'
{good}them on to 'Foam Core Board' {good}, but DIDN'T dry mount anything
onto the BACK of the board {BAD}.
This method {& materials} is relatively inexpensive and good . . . HOWEVER .
. . they MUST mound something {a paper of equal weight to what ever is
mounted on the face is ideal} on the BACK . . . even simple 'brown bag'
paper could do. What happens is, as the humidity changes, and time effects
the 'surface image', it contracts and the board 'cups'. When the 'subject'
is LARGE, like a Chart, it tends to 'pop' it out of the frame.
None of the Charts are 'under glass'. No real reason for the expense, and
WEIGHT. Typically, a 'matt' is to hold the glass away from the surface of a
photograph, so the 'gelatin' doesn't stick to the glass, or cause 'Newton
Ring' distortion. A secondary reason is for 'cosmetics', like the trim on a
house.
Regards & Good Luck,
Ron Magen
Backyard Boatshop
PS: I also mounted some 16x20 photo seascapes {printed from 4x5
transparencies}from a couple of other trips. Mounted them the 'correct' way
and they are still fine.
"Charlie Spitzer" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> you can get it dry mounted in the same place. they use a vacuum press so
it
> will come out without any bubbles.
>
On Mon, 29 Sep 2003 11:48:57 -0500, Bob Kuphal
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I wish to mount the map on a piece of 1/4" hardboard and install that
>in a wooden frame with a piece of plexy (sp ?) glass in front. The
>map is about 27" wide by 18" high.
Here's a useful site.
http://amol.org.au/recollections/1/1/index.htm
Don't mount directly to hardboard ! Use a mounting board.
Do use a matt, so it's not in contact with the glazing.
I'd be wary of mounting it directly. Hinging is much better, but it
does have problems for large items, especially when folded or
especially flexible. The various photo mounting techniques are useful
here; dry-mounting with several sorts of heat-sensitive tissue.
--
Smert' spamionam