I got my 24" Omnijig from Amazon for $295 today. Somehow I didn't really
believe it weighed 60 pounds, but it sure does.
I have run some half-blind dovetails; the through will have to wait until PC
sends me the straight bit they failed to include. (They haven't said they
will send it, but I choosing to be optimistic.)
Anyhow, I have a few questions about setup.
1) It is difficult to get the top piece 3/16" under the templete and the
offset between the two boards to 7/16".
However, if I set the top stop to 1" and the bottom stop to 7/16" it comes
out right.
Why on earth don't they just tell you to do that?! Am I over looking
something, and I just got lucky on this one?
2) It makes a bit of a mess. Is there any clever trick to using a DC to
catch much of the mess that anyone has found?
3) How tight are they supposed to fit? Should I need a hammer to put them
together, or should the be looser to leave room for glue? What seems to be
optimal?
4) In the instruction manual it says to have the bit stick out by 19/32".
In the video he says 21/32". I did it before seeing the video and found
19/32" was about right; but I wonder why there is the discrepency?
I am sure I will have more questions when I try the through dovetails.
Thanks.
"toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
Snip
> 3) How tight are they supposed to fit? Should I need a hammer to put them
> together, or should the be looser to leave room for glue? What seems to
> be
> optimal?
You should not have to hammer them together but they should hold together
when you pick the fitted pieces up.
> 4) In the instruction manual it says to have the bit stick out by 19/32".
> In the video he says 21/32". I did it before seeing the video and found
> 19/32" was about right; but I wonder why there is the discrepency?
Each and every DT bit has its own sweet spot when it comes to blind
dovetails. There basically is no adjusting except to find the proper fit.
Regardless of the thickness of material you will use the same bit setting
for that particular bit. A replacement bit of the same brand and part
number may require a slightly different depth setting for the DT's to fit
properly. If you have not yet discover this yet, if the joint fits too
tightly raise the bit a slight amount and test on a new scrap. If the joint
fits too loosely, lower the bit a slight amount and retest on a new scrap.
> I am sure I will have more questions when I try the through dovetails.
Oddly, these tend to be more forgiving and easier to cut.
> Thanks.
> I have run some half-blind dovetails; the through will have to wait until
> PC
> sends me the straight bit they failed to include. (They haven't said they
> will send it, but I choosing to be optimistic.)
My optimism was somewhat exaggerated. PC says they didn't make a mistake;
they simply discontinued the straight bit, so I am out of luck. Their
website says it is included, and it is obviously need to make the jig do
anything, but they have discontinued it. Huh?
Amazon will give me a $13 credit for the missing piece, so I guess it is a
happy ending.
So, buy PC at your own risk, but Amazon seems okay.