I'm looking to purchase a Framing Nailer for a few jobs around the
house like: building a shed, a fence, dog house and would like some
clarification. I have seen 34, 28 and 21 degree nailers an was
wondering if there are any great advantage of getting one over the
others or is it just a matter of personal preference? I dont think
I'll be nailing in any tight spaces. Is there any cost of supplies
benefit in getting one degree over another?
> others for what it will use and I recommend full round head over clipped
> head simply as being stronger -- heads and shank diameters are small
> relative to regular common nails anyway, typically.
>
You are correct. I bought the round head nailer , though, and have
occasionally regretted it. The clipped head nails are less expensive
and more commonly available. My nailer has been reliable but I have
occasionally have problems which might be solved by the clipped
nails. I have been told that the clipped nails feed better with fewer
misfires.
They are strong enough, it seems, since everone I know but me has the
clipped head nailer. I have been told that the round head nails are
required in some places where they have hurricanes and the like. They
are not required in Minnesota. If I were buying again I would go for
the clipped head style.
I have one of each - Paslode F350S for 34 degree nails (paper
collation, clipped head) and Hitachi NR83A (21 degree, round head).
Paslode also makes Roundrive nails that are offset full round head
nails at 34 degree paper collation. The Paslode nails are a bit more
expensive but they are a quality fastener.
Doing it again, I would go with the
Hitachi NR90AD Clipped Head 2-Inch to 3-1/2-Inch Framing Nailer
which is very light. They have been out long enough now that refurbed
units should be available.
On Wed, 13 Jun 2007 10:12:07 -0700, [email protected] wrote:
>I'm looking to purchase a Framing Nailer for a few jobs around the
>house like: building a shed, a fence, dog house and would like some
>clarification. I have seen 34, 28 and 21 degree nailers an was
>wondering if there are any great advantage of getting one over the
>others or is it just a matter of personal preference? I dont think
>I'll be nailing in any tight spaces. Is there any cost of supplies
>benefit in getting one degree over another?
Look for a "full head" nailer that will drive up to the largest nail that
you think you might use. Cheaper ones use clipped head nails and don't drive
the longest nails. Also look for one that will drive the nails that are
easiest to find in your area.
Some require special nails that are hard to find. The biggest brand names
are the ones that are usually easiest to find nails and parts for. Bostitch,
Accuset, Paslode, Porter-Cable, DeWalt are the brands that seem to fit this
category around here.
I have Porter-Cable and Bostitch and have no complaints.
Charley
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm looking to purchase a Framing Nailer for a few jobs around the
> house like: building a shed, a fence, dog house and would like some
> clarification. I have seen 34, 28 and 21 degree nailers an was
> wondering if there are any great advantage of getting one over the
> others or is it just a matter of personal preference? I dont think
> I'll be nailing in any tight spaces. Is there any cost of supplies
> benefit in getting one degree over another?
>
[email protected] wrote:
> I'm looking to purchase a Framing Nailer for a few jobs around the
> house like: building a shed, a fence, dog house and would like some
> clarification. I have seen 34, 28 and 21 degree nailers an was
> wondering if there are any great advantage of getting one over the
> others or is it just a matter of personal preference? I dont think
> I'll be nailing in any tight spaces. Is there any cost of supplies
> benefit in getting one degree over another?
Hardly a "woodworking" question, more appropriate for alt.home.repair or
similar, but...
IMO no real difference other than the minor difference in accessibility.
I'd look for one that seems to have a wide interchangeability w/
others for what it will use and I recommend full round head over clipped
head simply as being stronger -- heads and shank diameters are small
relative to regular common nails anyway, typically.
Also, look for the capability to drive nails as large as you thing you
may need -- some of the less expensive scrimp on the side of shorter.
--
[email protected] opin'd thus:
>I'm looking to purchase a Framing Nailer for a few jobs around the
>house like: building a shed, a fence, dog house and would like some
>clarification. I have seen 34, 28 and 21 degree nailers an was
>wondering if there are any great advantage of getting one over the
>others or is it just a matter of personal preference? I dont think
>I'll be nailing in any tight spaces. Is there any cost of supplies
>benefit in getting one degree over another?
I was needing a nailer for similar uses, and to accommodate all the
nailing jobs around the place except for finishing and brad nailing, I
got a Senco palm nailer like this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Senco-PC0781-Pneumatic-Palm-Nailer/dp/B000087QPD
It's not as fast as a specialized framing or roofing nailer 'cause you
need to feed each nail by hand, but it will drive any nail from 5d to
16d (and larger with different heads) and it's inexpensive (a big plus
for a cheap bastard like me ;^) I've used mine for framing the walls
and making roof trusses for my shed and I was quite pleased with the
tool . . . .
--
I wish the buck stopped here; I could use a few