I recently used Moser's W14904 water soluble aniline dye on a curly (Tiger)
maple drop leaf table. After applying the dye I lightly sanded to remove the
raised grain. But the stain appears to penetrate the curly maple so little
that even a light sanding removes the stain, especially on the corners. I
tried applying a second coat of stain but the grain raised again. Any
suggestions?
Also, any opinions on Tung Oil as a finish for such a piece?
The trick is to dampen, let dry, lightly scuff the fuzz, then apply the dye.
I don't like oil on a whitish wood my self, yellows it too much and makes
it look like dog piss in the snow to me but, then again, you may like it so
what I or anyone else things of it is pretty immaterial now isn't it.
If you are asking if it provides enough protection, maybe, then again, maybe
not. Depends on where the table is going at to what use it is likely to be
put to.
--
Mike G.
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"Joe Zeh" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I recently used Moser's W14904 water soluble aniline dye on a curly
(Tiger)
> maple drop leaf table. After applying the dye I lightly sanded to remove
the
> raised grain. But the stain appears to penetrate the curly maple so little
> that even a light sanding removes the stain, especially on the corners. I
> tried applying a second coat of stain but the grain raised again. Any
> suggestions?
>
> Also, any opinions on Tung Oil as a finish for such a piece?
>
>
"Joe Zeh" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I recently used Moser's W14904 water soluble aniline dye on a curly
(Tiger)
> maple drop leaf table. After applying the dye I lightly sanded to remove
the
> raised grain. But the stain appears to penetrate the curly maple so little
> that even a light sanding removes the stain, especially on the corners. I
> tried applying a second coat of stain but the grain raised again. Any
> suggestions?
I've learnt that it's best to raise the grain first, when working with
water/alcohol soluble dye stains. Wet the wood with a slightly damp sponge.
Allow to dry and then gently sand. This might take an iteration or two.
Then stain. If the grain is still a teensy bit raised, apply a very thing
spitcoat of shellac (like 1/2#), allow to dry and then super ultra gently
sand it back with 320 grit paper backed by a rubber block. Vacuum or blow
the dust off frequently. Go EASY near the corners.
Maple is notorious for being difficult to stain, on account of it pretty
much doesn't absorb squat (which is why, I'm assuming, you're using an
aniline dye).
>
> Also, any opinions on Tung Oil as a finish for such a piece?
It's fine as an undercoat (or even a top coat), though it isn't as durable
as a film finish. It really depends on the look/feel you're after. Find
the "scared to finish," thread for some solid advice from various people,
regarding experimenting with finishes.
O'Deen
Before applying a water based product, wet the surface down with water to
raise the grain and then with fine grit sand paper sand the rough spots
first. Then apply your water based product.
"Joe Zeh" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I recently used Moser's W14904 water soluble aniline dye on a curly
(Tiger)
> maple drop leaf table. After applying the dye I lightly sanded to remove
the
> raised grain. But the stain appears to penetrate the curly maple so little
> that even a light sanding removes the stain, especially on the corners. I
> tried applying a second coat of stain but the grain raised again. Any
> suggestions?
>
> Also, any opinions on Tung Oil as a finish for such a piece?
>
>
"Joe Zeh" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>
> I recently used Moser's W14904 water soluble aniline dye on a curly
(Tiger)
> maple drop leaf table. After applying the dye I lightly sanded to remove
the
> raised grain. But the stain appears to penetrate the curly maple so little
Sand more lightly, with a smaller grit?
Raise grain before dying?
Switch to a non-grain-rasing equivalent?