I have spent all day trying to set up my new jointer with a JointerPal. I
have finally decided to seek help before wandering around aimlessly anymore.
1) I have it so that the front half of the cutter head works just like it
should, but the back half produces a convex edge because the end part of the
wood is not cut. (length, not width)
Not coincidentally, a straitedge put across the front just brushes all three
knives, while it completely misses them at the back.
Okay, obviously the front is set properly while the back has them too low,
so the end is pulled up onto the outfeed table and doesn't get cut.
But could there be another explanation than simple misadjustment?
I have been setting and resetting the blades all day, and it doesn't make
much sense that I set all three front correctly and all three backs too low;
the whole point of JointerPal is that they are automatically consistant.
2) I cleaned some surface rust off with steel wool. It looked pretty good,
but there was some orange left in the grain. I took vinegar (which I have
seen recommended here) to it and it IMMEDIATELY turned the whole table
brown. The brown does not come off with steel wool. Is this normal and
proper?!?! If I didn't know better, I would say it was rust.
3) The jointer included a JointerPal, and WoodStock was kind enough to
email me instructions. But what do I do with the knife adjusters in the
cutter head; just ignore them, or do I have to tighten them up against the
knife. (Hey this might be the way to raise the backs a bit...)
Thanks.
Toller wrote:>
>I have spent all day trying to set up my new jointer with a JointerPal. I
>have finally decided to seek help before wandering around aimlessly anymore.
>
>1) I have it so that the front half of the cutter head works just like it
>should, but the back half produces a convex edge because the end part of the
>wood is not cut. (length, not width)
>Not coincidentally, a straitedge put across the front just brushes all three
>knives, while it completely misses them at the back.
>Okay, obviously the front is set properly while the back has them too low,
>so the end is pulled up onto the outfeed table and doesn't get cut.
>But could there be another explanation than simple misadjustment?
>I have been setting and resetting the blades all day, and it doesn't make
>much sense that I set all three front correctly and all three backs too low;
>the whole point of JointerPal is that they are automatically consistant.
>
>2) I cleaned some surface rust off with steel wool. It looked pretty good,
>but there was some orange left in the grain. I took vinegar (which I have
>seen recommended here) to it and it IMMEDIATELY turned the whole table
>brown. The brown does not come off with steel wool. Is this normal and
>proper?!?! If I didn't know better, I would say it was rust.
>
>3) The jointer included a JointerPal, and WoodStock was kind enough to
>email me instructions. But what do I do with the knife adjusters in the
>cutter head; just ignore them, or do I have to tighten them up against the
>knife. (Hey this might be the way to raise the backs a bit...)
>
>Thanks.
>
As long as you're aligning the knives to the outfeed table, it sounds like your
tables aren't co-planar. Do yourself a favor, and purchase the book "Care and
Maintenance of Shop Machines" by John White. In it you'll find excellent info
on how to build a set of master bars, any length, cheap, which rival any
straightedge costing hundreds of dollars. Plus there's info on shimming the
table(s) into co-planarity (izzat a word?). After using the magnetic knife
setters (built from instructions in the book) on my jointer, and tightening the
bolts, I gently snug up the jackscrews to the heel of the blades so they don't
move. Tom
Work at your leisure!
On 26 Aug 2004 23:02:48 GMT, [email protected] (Tom) wrote:
>As long as you're aligning the knives to the outfeed table, it sounds like your
>tables aren't co-planar. Do yourself a favor, and purchase the book "Care and
>Maintenance of Shop Machines" by John White.
<snip>
If like me, you are having a little trouble Googling for a source for the book,
try the title:
"Care and Repair of Shop Machines: A Complete Guide to Set Up, Troubleshooting,
and Maintenance"
It's amazing how many books have been written by "John White".
Tom Veatch
Wichita, KS USA
>On 26 Aug 2004 23:02:48 GMT, [email protected] (Tom) wrote:
>
>
>>As long as you're aligning the knives to the outfeed table, it sounds like
>your
>>tables aren't co-planar. Do yourself a favor, and purchase the book "Care
>and
>>Maintenance of Shop Machines" by John White.
><snip>
>
>If like me, you are having a little trouble Googling for a source for the
>book,
>try the title:
>
>"Care and Repair of Shop Machines: A Complete Guide to Set Up,
>Troubleshooting,
>and Maintenance"
>
>It's amazing how many books have been written by "John White".
>
>
>
>Tom Veatch
>Wichita, KS USA
>
>
D'oh! Tom
Work at your leisure!
"toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> but there was some orange left in the grain. I took vinegar (which I have
> seen recommended here) to it and it IMMEDIATELY turned the whole table
> brown. The brown does not come off with steel wool. Is this normal and
> proper?!?! If I didn't know better, I would say it was rust.
Household Vinegar is about 5% acetic acid, IIRC. Acetic ain't the worlds
strongest acid... IMHO, if you were going to take this route, I'd have used
muriatic (HCl) or have added some salt (NaCl).
Personally, I'd have popped for a commercial product, also mentioned here...
In article <[email protected]>, "toller" <[email protected]> wrote:
>2) I cleaned some surface rust off with steel wool. It looked pretty good,
>but there was some orange left in the grain. I took vinegar (which I have
>seen recommended here) to it and it IMMEDIATELY turned the whole table
>brown. The brown does not come off with steel wool. Is this normal and
>proper?!?! If I didn't know better, I would say it was rust.
It's normal behavior of iron when vinegar is poured on it. Proper? Well, you
can decide for yourself if pouring vinegar on iron is proper or improper.
It's more likely to be iron acetate, than rust.
Do like I told you this morning: wrap some 400 grit wet-or-dry paper around a
block of wood and polish the table, using mineral spirits as a lubricant.
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
Get a copy of my NEW AND IMPROVED TrollFilter for NewsProxy/Nfilter
by sending email to autoresponder at filterinfo-at-milmac-dot-com
You must use your REAL email address to get a response.
> As long as you're aligning the knives to the outfeed table, it sounds like
your
> tables aren't co-planar. Do yourself a favor, and purchase the book "Care
and
> Maintenance of Shop Machines" by John White. In it you'll find excellent
info
> on how to build a set of master bars, any length, cheap, which rival any
> straightedge costing hundreds of dollars. Plus there's info on shimming
the
> table(s) into co-planarity (izzat a word?). After using the magnetic knife
> setters (built from instructions in the book) on my jointer, and
tightening the
> bolts, I gently snug up the jackscrews to the heel of the blades so they
don't
> move. Tom
After writing the last email, it occured to me to try using the jackscrews
to raise the back of the knives; and it worked, kind of.
It no longer cuts convex; instead it snipes. ARRGH. (could explain why I
got such a good buy on it...)
Fortunately the library has the book you suggested, so I will read it
through. Thanks.
Toller wrote:>After writing the last email, it occured to me to try using the
jackscrews
>to raise the back of the knives; and it worked, kind of.
>It no longer cuts convex; instead it snipes. ARRGH. (could explain why I
>got such a good buy on it...)
>Fortunately the library has the book you suggested, so I will read it
>through. Thanks.
>
>
If you're getting snipe, then incrementally raise the outfeed table until the
snipe just disappears. Bob's your Uncle! Tom
Work at your leisure!