Hi,
I plan on building built in bookcases for my new home. I plan on using a
veneer type plywood available in 4' by 8' sheets. The bookshelves will be
72" in height.
What is the preferred method to make the long cuts? I was thinking a skill
saw for the rough cut then finding an 8 foot straight edge and cleaning the
edge up with a router.
Anyone have an idea on who makes a ONE PIECE 8 foot straight edge?
Thanks,
Any S4S (surfaced 4 sides) lumber you buy will be straight enough to
make a fence for your circular saw and use it for this cut. No need
to rout. Rig the setup on a scrap piece to determine the distance
from the blade to the fence and be sure to consider which side of the
blade kerf you're measuring from. Put 4 2x4's on your horses and set
it up so that there is a 2x very close to each side of the blade and
the other 2 are supporting the far sides. Clamp your "fence" and rip
away.
> I plan on building built in bookcases for my new home. I plan on using a
> veneer type plywood available in 4' by 8' sheets. The bookshelves will be
> 72" in height.
>
> What is the preferred method to make the long cuts? I was thinking a skill
> saw for the rough cut then finding an 8 foot straight edge and cleaning the
> edge up with a router.
>
> Anyone have an idea on who makes a ONE PIECE 8 foot straight edge?
>
> Thanks,
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> I would love to know where you buy your straight s4s lumber.
Ok, let me rephrase. Any STRAIGHT s4s lumber will work. Though I
didn't specify in my original post, you may want to inspect it before
you buy; just like your wife.
"Wolf Lahti" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Wanker" <[email protected]> wrote:
> >
> > Anyone have an idea on who makes a ONE PIECE 8 foot straight edge?
> >
>
> There are 8-ft levels out there. reasonably priced, too.
> Hard to find a straighter edge than that.
Not really. Levels are a bit concave to bias them towards
resting out at the ends.
Scott Conner apparently said,on my timestamp of 11/08/2004 12:00 AM:
> Ok, let me rephrase. Any STRAIGHT s4s lumber will work. Though I
> didn't specify in my original post, you may want to inspect it before
> you buy; just like your wife.
Funny. Wasn't aware my wife inspected anything before buying...
<d&r>
--
Cheers
Nuno Souto
[email protected]
Yeah, and just like your wife, once bent, you'll never it get it
straight. And just because they are straight at one time, doesn't
mean they won't bend later.
Scott Conner wrote:
>
> "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> > I would love to know where you buy your straight s4s lumber.
>
> Ok, let me rephrase. Any STRAIGHT s4s lumber will work. Though I
> didn't specify in my original post, you may want to inspect it before
> you buy; just like your wife.
"Wolf Lahti" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "J" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> > Since most modern 8' levels are made from aluminum
> > extrusions, they are a constant dimension along their length.
> >
>
> That's been my experience.
You should both look closer.
In article <4hTRc.2207$73.982@lakeread04>, Wanker <[email protected]> wrote:
>Hi,
>
>I plan on building built in bookcases for my new home. I plan on using a
>veneer type plywood available in 4' by 8' sheets. The bookshelves will be
>72" in height.
>
>What is the preferred method to make the long cuts? I was thinking a skill
>saw for the rough cut then finding an 8 foot straight edge and cleaning the
>edge up with a router.
>
>Anyone have an idea on who makes a ONE PIECE 8 foot straight edge?
I cheated. I got a 10' metal stud at the lumber yard. I think it was a
whopping $2.79. clamps at each end, *and* some 'brace' strips against
the back of it, clamped down at the back of the stock, to keep it from
flexing. and 'awaaaaaaay we go!'. works like a charm.
Robert Bonomi states:
>
>I cheated. I got a 10' metal stud at the lumber yard. I think it was a
>whopping $2.79. clamps at each end, *and* some 'brace' strips against
>the back of it, clamped down at the back of the stock, to keep it from
>flexing. and 'awaaaaaaay we go!'. works like a charm.
For maybe six bucks, would 2 of those things work if you tack welded one on top
of the other about every 6-8"? No flex to deal with then, not much thicker,
twice as heavy, but IIRC, they are pretty light anyway?
Charlie Self
"Inanimate objects are classified scientifically into three major categories -
those that don't work, those that break down and those that get lost." Russell
Baker
In article <[email protected]>,
Charlie Self <[email protected]> wrote:
>Robert Bonomi states:
>
>>
>>I cheated. I got a 10' metal stud at the lumber yard. I think it was a
>>whopping $2.79. clamps at each end, *and* some 'brace' strips against
>>the back of it, clamped down at the back of the stock, to keep it from
>>flexing. and 'awaaaaaaay we go!'. works like a charm.
>
>For maybe six bucks, would 2 of those things work if you tack welded one on top
>of the other about every 6-8"? No flex to deal with then, not much thicker,
>twice as heavy, but IIRC, they are pretty light anyway?
I dunno. I don't have welding capability. <grin>
They're available with the metal in several thicknesses, but even the 'heavy'
ones are still very light as far as total mass goes.
I suspect one could stiffen things considerably by using a two (or more)
'in parallel', i.e. in a 'UU', or 'UUU' arrangement.
As long as the stud is straight to start with, it clamps down straight.
and there is 'merely' the matter of dealing with any flexing that might
occur from side-stresses while making the cut. I tend to have an abundance
of scraps in the sub 4' range, that are well-suited for use as temporary
cross-bracing.
"Wanker" writes:
> What is the preferred method to make the long cuts? I was thinking a skill
> saw for the rough cut then finding an 8 foot straight edge and cleaning
the
> edge up with a router.
That works for me.
> Anyone have an idea on who makes a ONE PIECE 8 foot straight edge?
Get an aluminum angle, 2"x2"x1/8"x96" and a couple of 3", C-Clamps.
Works for me, less than $20 USD, complete.
HTH
Lew
Lew Hodgett responds:
>> Anyone have an idea on who makes a ONE PIECE 8 foot straight edge?
>
>Get an aluminum angle, 2"x2"x1/8"x96" and a couple of 3", C-Clamps.
>
>Works for me, less than $20 USD, complete.
Works great. Add a really good blade and you can often forget about clean-up.
Charlie Self
"Inanimate objects are classified scientifically into three major categories -
those that don't work, those that break down and those that get lost." Russell
Baker
In article <4hTRc.2207$73.982@lakeread04>, Wanker <[email protected]> wrote:
>Hi,
>
>I plan on building built in bookcases for my new home. I plan on using a
>veneer type plywood available in 4' by 8' sheets. The bookshelves will be
>72" in height.
>
>What is the preferred method to make the long cuts? I was thinking a skill
>saw for the rough cut then finding an 8 foot straight edge and cleaning the
>edge up with a router.
>
>Anyone have an idea on who makes a ONE PIECE 8 foot straight edge?
>
>Thanks,
>
>
>
Assuming you are buying more than one sheet of plywood, you can put 2
sheets up on sawhorses, offset the long edge of the top sheet from the
bottom sheet an appropriate distance to use it as a fence for your
circular saw, clamp it, then rip off a strip a few inches wide from the
bottom sheet. Now you have an 8 foot straightedge.
--
Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland
[email protected]
Thanks all! I think the angle iron is for me!
Wanker
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Wanker" writes:
>
> > What is the preferred method to make the long cuts? I was thinking a
skill
> > saw for the rough cut then finding an 8 foot straight edge and cleaning
> the
> > edge up with a router.
>
> That works for me.
>
> > Anyone have an idea on who makes a ONE PIECE 8 foot straight edge?
>
> Get an aluminum angle, 2"x2"x1/8"x96" and a couple of 3", C-Clamps.
>
> Works for me, less than $20 USD, complete.
>
> HTH
>
> Lew
>
>
>
"Clif" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> >
> >
> Cut a 3 or 4" strip from the other side of your ply or a cheaper ply
> and use that to reference your cuts.
I was wondering when the simplest solution would surface.. ;~) I was just
getting ready to post the same.
Go buy a piece of 1/4" MDF... It will be veery straight
and you can use it to build one of these:
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/pages/w00035.asp
Wanker wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I plan on building built in bookcases for my new home. I plan on using a
> veneer type plywood available in 4' by 8' sheets. The bookshelves will be
> 72" in height.
>
> What is the preferred method to make the long cuts? I was thinking a skill
> saw for the rough cut then finding an 8 foot straight edge and cleaning the
> edge up with a router.
>
> Anyone have an idea on who makes a ONE PIECE 8 foot straight edge?
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
Years ago I took a piece of red oak, jointed it flat on the edge and put a
piece of aluminum angle material on one edge. It has served me faithfully
for at least 30 years. Not only do I use it to draw lines, but I also clamp
it to 4 X 8 sheets of plywood for a saw guide.
It doesn't get as much use as it did, I now have a panel saw. I do wood
boat restorations and handle a lot of sheet goods.
Don Dando
"Wanker" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:4hTRc.2207$73.982@lakeread04...
> Hi,
>
> I plan on building built in bookcases for my new home. I plan on using a
> veneer type plywood available in 4' by 8' sheets. The bookshelves will be
> 72" in height.
>
> What is the preferred method to make the long cuts? I was thinking a skill
> saw for the rough cut then finding an 8 foot straight edge and cleaning
the
> edge up with a router.
>
> Anyone have an idea on who makes a ONE PIECE 8 foot straight edge?
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
On Mon, 9 Aug 2004 18:49:41 -0400, "Wanker" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Hi,
>
>I plan on building built in bookcases for my new home. I plan on using a
>veneer type plywood available in 4' by 8' sheets. The bookshelves will be
>72" in height.
>
>What is the preferred method to make the long cuts? I was thinking a skill
>saw for the rough cut then finding an 8 foot straight edge and cleaning the
>edge up with a router.
>
>Anyone have an idea on who makes a ONE PIECE 8 foot straight edge?
>
>Thanks,
>
>
Got an 8ft length of MDF laying around w/ the factory edge still on
it?
"John Keeney" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Wolf Lahti" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> >
> > "Wanker" <[email protected]> wrote:
> > >
> > > Anyone have an idea on who makes a ONE PIECE 8 foot straight edge?
> > >
> >
> > There are 8-ft levels out there. reasonably priced, too.
> > Hard to find a straighter edge than that.
>
> Not really. Levels are a bit concave to bias them towards
> resting out at the ends.
???
Are you saying that levels are hourglass shaped?
All I can say is that I've NEVER seen one like that and would throw it out
if I did..
I'd also say that since most modern 8' levels are made from aluminum
extrusions, they are a constant dimension along their length.
-Jack
I think a piece of 8ft angle iron would make a heavy but decent straight
edge.
I bought a great straight edge from http://www.eurekazone.org/ this is not
a single piece but is the best two piece straight edge I have seen. They
also have a sled for accurate placement of the circular saw.
I have used the rough cut with a circular saw and clean up with a straight
edge and router for long lengths and have been very happy with the result.
Dave Paine.
"Wanker" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:4hTRc.2207$73.982@lakeread04...
> Hi,
>
> I plan on building built in bookcases for my new home. I plan on using a
> veneer type plywood available in 4' by 8' sheets. The bookshelves will be
> 72" in height.
>
> What is the preferred method to make the long cuts? I was thinking a skill
> saw for the rough cut then finding an 8 foot straight edge and cleaning
the
> edge up with a router.
>
> Anyone have an idea on who makes a ONE PIECE 8 foot straight edge?
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
"Wanker" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> Anyone have an idea on who makes a ONE PIECE 8 foot straight edge?
>
There are 8-ft levels out there. reasonably priced, too.
Hard to find a straighter edge than that.
"J" <[email protected]>
wrote:
> Since most modern 8' levels are made from aluminum
> extrusions, they are a constant dimension along their length.
>
That's been my experience.
On Mon, 9 Aug 2004 18:49:41 -0400, "Wanker" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Hi,
>
>I plan on building built in bookcases for my new home. I plan on using a
>veneer type plywood available in 4' by 8' sheets. The bookshelves will be
>72" in height.
>
>What is the preferred method to make the long cuts? I was thinking a skill
>saw for the rough cut then finding an 8 foot straight edge and cleaning the
>edge up with a router.
>
>Anyone have an idea on who makes a ONE PIECE 8 foot straight edge?
>
>Thanks,
>
>
if you are using more than 1 sheet of plywood lay one on top the other
and clamp it on your marks using the top sheet as the strait edge.
alow for the distance from the edge of the saw shoe to the blade when
making your marks. after you cut the first side for the book case use
it as a guide to cut the rest. for a book case the factory edge of the
plywood should be strait enough. works for me!
skeez
I don't think so.
"Scott Conner" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Any S4S (surfaced 4 sides) lumber you buy will be straight enough to
> make a fence for your circular saw and use it for this cut.
Hi Pat!
Exactly what I was looking for when I started this thread! Your approach is
superb, elegant and simple.
Thank you for the great info!
Wanka
"Pat Barber" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Go buy a piece of 1/4" MDF... It will be veery straight
> and you can use it to build one of these:
>
> http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/pages/w00035.asp
>
> Wanker wrote:
>
> > Hi,
> >
> > I plan on building built in bookcases for my new home. I plan on using a
> > veneer type plywood available in 4' by 8' sheets. The bookshelves will
be
> > 72" in height.
> >
> > What is the preferred method to make the long cuts? I was thinking a
skill
> > saw for the rough cut then finding an 8 foot straight edge and cleaning
the
> > edge up with a router.
> >
> > Anyone have an idea on who makes a ONE PIECE 8 foot straight edge?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> >
> >
>
On Wed, 11 Aug 2004 06:14:22 -0400, Tom Watson <[email protected]>
calmly ranted:
>I use Corian cutoffs, about four inches wide, 8, 10, 12 feet long.
Corian cutoffs? Aren't those awfully heavy to swim in, Tawm?
------------------------------
REAL men don't need free plans
------------------------------
http://diversify.com REAL websites
On Mon, 9 Aug 2004 18:49:41 -0400, "Wanker" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>What is the preferred method to make the long cuts? I was thinking a skill
>saw for the rough cut then finding an 8 foot straight edge and cleaning the
>edge up with a router.
>
>Anyone have an idea on who makes a ONE PIECE 8 foot straight edge?
I use Corian cutoffs, about four inches wide, 8, 10, 12 feet long.
Regards,
Tom.
Thomas J.Watson - Cabinetmaker (ret.)
tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet (real email)
http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1
On Mon, 9 Aug 2004 18:49:41 -0400, "Wanker" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Hi,
>
>I plan on building built in bookcases for my new home. I plan on using a
>veneer type plywood available in 4' by 8' sheets. The bookshelves will be
>72" in height.
>
>What is the preferred method to make the long cuts? I was thinking a skill
>saw for the rough cut then finding an 8 foot straight edge and cleaning the
>edge up with a router.
>
>Anyone have an idea on who makes a ONE PIECE 8 foot straight edge?
>
>Thanks,
>
>
Cut a 3 or 4" strip from the other side of your ply or a cheaper ply
and use that to reference your cuts.
Clif
Not the Borg, obviously. Saw a 2x10 at Home Depot the other day that was a
perfect start for that hand carved propeller you've always wanted. No
bending required.
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I would love to know where you buy your straight s4s lumber.
>
>
>
>
On Wed, 11 Aug 2004 13:13:47 -0700, Larry Jaques
<novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote:
>On Wed, 11 Aug 2004 06:14:22 -0400, Tom Watson <[email protected]>
>calmly ranted:
>
>>I use Corian cutoffs, about four inches wide, 8, 10, 12 feet long.
>
>Corian cutoffs? Aren't those awfully heavy to swim in, Tawm?
Swim nekkid. The Corian's brittle and breaks when you try to wear it.
>
> ------------------------------
> REAL men don't need free plans
Amen bro.
Regards,
Tom.
Thomas J.Watson - Cabinetmaker (ret.)
tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet (real email)
http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1