I am having trouble understanding how to read the measurements from varies
brand router bits.
Below is for CMT
http://www.cmtusa.com/store/index1.ihtml?
x_page=store.ihtml&id=CID9581896837&step=2
&parentid=&menuinclude=leftnav_products.ihtml
Below is for Freud:
http://www.freudtools.com/woodworkers/rep/router_bits/Router_Bits/Rsd_Panel
/html/Rsd_Panel_1.html
And there's more, but for the sake to keep this short.
As much I understand raised panel routering, I look for the rail/stile
depth, that's it (for now). You know, it's either 3/8" or 7/16". But when I
look for that in their rail/stile set webpages, I can't locate those depth
measurements. I even sometime try arithmetic using other measurements
provided, IF ANY, then add or subtract, still doesn't give me the groove
depth. Example for CMT rail/stile (891.502.11), the "R" is 25/64", what is
that?
There's "overall diameter", "overall length", "large/small radius", and few
other terminology. Is there a link **with drawings** that can explain what
terminology means and how the measurements go about? Forgive me for not
google it before expressing in here... :(
Chuck
OK, however, different brands have different sizes (of course). Example,
rail/stile, Whiteside will have steeper bend (shorter), while some others
have longer bend. Also, for the raised panels, some are wider (and shallow)
or short (and steeper). Yes, speaking for the same thickness, slightly
different slopes.
Or is it me being too picky?
Chuck
> Dimensions for the cutters regarding the material are simply the
> cutting height--that tells you what thickness of door rail/stile
> material they're suitable for. Typical cabinet doors are 3/4" w/ a
> 1/4" groove for the panel. This is determined by the grooving cutter.
CNT wrote:
>
> I am having trouble understanding how to read the measurements from varies
> brand router bits.
>
> Below is for CMT
>
> http://www.cmtusa.com/store/index1.ihtml?
> x_page=store.ihtml&id=CID9581896837&step=2
> &parentid=&menuinclude=leftnav_products.ihtml
>
> Below is for Freud:
>
> http://www.freudtools.com/woodworkers/rep/router_bits/Router_Bits/Rsd_Panel
> /html/Rsd_Panel_1.html
>
> And there's more, but for the sake to keep this short.
>
> As much I understand raised panel routering, I look for the rail/stile
> depth, that's it (for now). You know, it's either 3/8" or 7/16". But when I
> look for that in their rail/stile set webpages, I can't locate those depth
> measurements. I even sometime try arithmetic using other measurements
> provided, IF ANY, then add or subtract, still doesn't give me the groove
> depth. Example for CMT rail/stile (891.502.11), the "R" is 25/64", what is
> that?
The "R" is radius...I assume w/ that size it would refer to the radius
of a quarter bead on the panel...
Dimensions for the cutters regarding the material are simply the cutting
height--that tells you what thickness of door rail/stile material
they're suitable for. Typical cabinet doors are 3/4" w/ a 1/4" groove
for the panel. This is determined by the grooving cutter.
> There's "overall diameter", "overall length", "large/small radius", and few
> other terminology. Is there a link **with drawings** that can explain what
> terminology means and how the measurements go about? Forgive me for not
> google it before expressing in here... :(
I've not looked at many sites that don't have profile drawings w/
pertinent dimensions...
CNT wrote:
>
> OK, however, different brands have different sizes (of course). Example,
> rail/stile, Whiteside will have steeper bend (shorter), while some others
> have longer bend. Also, for the raised panels, some are wider (and shallow)
> or short (and steeper). Yes, speaking for the same thickness, slightly
> different slopes.
>
> Or is it me being too picky?
Choose a profile you like and go for it...what earthly difference does
it make what various brands are relative to each other? You buy the
matched set for the cove and cope cuts and that's all you have to worry
over. All the rest is aesthetics and price point. Only other real
consideration on overall major diameter is whether your router base can
handle it or not and, of course you start needing hefty power to spin
those big honkers...