Sorry it isn't woodworking stuff but I thought some might find this pic
interesting. I'm comparing the reading of my brand new $17.99 (usually
$44.99) Clamp Meter I got this weekend at Harbor Freight with a $274 Fluke
True RMS Clamp Meter from work. I'm checking current draw on my home AC
unit with them both at once.
http://home.swbell.net/snaphook/Pics/Clamp%20Meters.jpg
That $17.99 gets you a clamp on ammeter as well as VOM, probes and a nylon
pouch. The range is the same as the Fluke also.
Bruce
On 14 Sep 2003 18:13:10 GMT, Michael Burton <mhburton@zzz|moment.net>
wrote:
>
> I am an electrician in a Gas Processing plant and have a device
>similar to this. They work pretty well. They sense the magnetic field
>induced from the wire because of the voltage presence. I am still partial
>to my volt meter though and very rarely ever use my pen type voltage
>checker. Old habits die hard. :-)
> One VERY IMPORTANT thing to remember if you buy one of these
>things though. Be absolutely sure you have tested the circuit with the
>power on and verified the detector does in fact sense the voltage presence
>on a known live circuit. Preferably, the one you are about to work on. Then
>check it again after you have turned off the breaker.
> If the battery has gone dead in your checker for some reason, it will
>not sense the voltage and can give you a false sense of security and get
>you "bit" or worse.
>
>Michael
Wow. Electrician in a gas processing plant. You have many ways to die --
and make the evening news. (Hope that is not too morbid -- just sounds
hi-risk.) So, safety must be extra important. Thanks for the info.
On Wed, 10 Sep 2003 19:18:01 GMT, Nova <[email protected]> wrote:
>Wade Lippman wrote:
>
>> For $10 you can get a voltage sensor that tells you if a wire is hot, just
>> by being near it.
>> There doesn't have to be any current flowing; if you have an open circuit,
>> it can tell the difference between the hot and the neutral. (If there is
>> current, then they are both hot; duh)
>
>For about $4.00 you can get a neon voltage tester that would do the same thing:
>
> http://d2774266.u40.infinology.com/Leviton,835,49666,1R,,Tri,A,Light,Circuit,Tester--1-495336-B00002NAUZ-0-tools-product.html
Well thanks, but I don't think that will work well in the middle of a cable
-- at least w/o stripping it.
beats me how... i was tought that those pesky little electrons
had to move to generate a magnetic field that any induction can
be based upon...
irax.
Lance Spaulding wrote:
> Igor <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>On 11 Sep 2003 12:55:46 -0600, Lance Spaulding <[email protected]>
>>wrote:
>
>
>>>He's referring to inductance meters and you can buy them at almost
>>>any electric supply store. I bought mine at Home Depot for about
>>>$10-$15. It will detect an AC voltage when you get it near the
>>>wire.
>>>
>>>Lance
>>
>
>>Yes, but even w/ no current flowing -- i.e., nothing is operating on the
>>circuit at the time?
>
>
> Yes.
>
> Lance
"Bruce" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Sorry it isn't woodworking stuff but I thought some might find this pic
> interesting. I'm comparing the reading of my brand new $17.99 (usually
> $44.99) Clamp Meter I got this weekend at Harbor Freight with a $274 Fluke
> True RMS Clamp Meter from work. I'm checking current draw on my home AC
> unit with them both at once.
>
> http://home.swbell.net/snaphook/Pics/Clamp%20Meters.jpg
>
> That $17.99 gets you a clamp on ammeter as well as VOM, probes and a nylon
> pouch. The range is the same as the Fluke also.
>
> Bruce
Interesting! Thanks for the comparison.
--
Regards,
Dean Bielanowski
Editor,
Online Tool Reviews
http://www.onlinetoolreviews.com
------------------------------------------------------------
Latest 5 Reviews:
- Woodworking Techniques & Projects
- Kreg Right Angle Clamp
- Bosch 3912 (GCM12) 12" Compound Miter Saw
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------------------------------------------------------------
In rec.woodworking
"2manytoyz" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Need to watch the sales at Harbor Freight VERY closely. Sale prices vary
>every month. I bought the exact same model for $9.99.
Darn it :-) That is a hell of a deal. But, like you said, it is a bargain
at $18.
In rec.woodworking
Igor <[email protected]> wrote:
>This may be a real stupid question to something that is very obvious, but
>the downside "potential" for me is too great: This type of meter is what
>one can use to see if a wire is hot before cutting it? I need the most
>basic tool for that function.
Using an amp probe for this is a good way to have a shocking experience.
It is possible to have voltage present but no current flowing. In my
picture, if the AC wasn't running, and I was upstream of the relay, it
would show 0.0 amps but there is 220 volts AC waiting for me to snip it
with my side-cutters.
I would tend to probe the wire at a termination if possible. If not, the
only safe way I know of is to pierce the insulation with a probe on a volt
meter and measure voltage. You will have to have a ground also, so you'll
probably be piercing 2 wires. If you sharpen the tips of your probes, it
isn't a big deal usually. There are also test lights that do the same
thing. Make sure you have the right voltage type and value.
I've seen a small pen type device that you can hold on a wire and it will
light up but that must be from induction, just like the amp probe so it
wouldn't work unless current was flowing.
"2manytoyz" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Need to watch the sales at Harbor Freight VERY closely. Sale prices vary
> every month. I bought the exact same model for $9.99. The 7 function DVM
> sell for as cheap as $2.99, or as high as $12.99
> (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=35761)
I
> get their sales flyers frequently and scour them, taking note of the
prices
> of items. They're sneaky, but that meter was still a steal at $18!
>
>
If you use 35761-1VGA, you can get it for $9.99 even when it is not on sale
Digger
-----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =-----
http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
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In rec.woodworking
"Digger" <DW> wrote:
>"2manytoyz" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> Need to watch the sales at Harbor Freight VERY closely. Sale prices vary
>> every month. I bought the exact same model for $9.99. The 7 function DVM
>> sell for as cheap as $2.99, or as high as $12.99
>> (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=35761)
>I
>> get their sales flyers frequently and scour them, taking note of the
>prices
>> of items. They're sneaky, but that meter was still a steal at $18!
>>
>>
>If you use 35761-1VGA, you can get it for $9.99 even when it is not on sale
You guys are off track. I'm talking about a CLAMP meter, not a VOM. Here:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=41080
It is regularly $44.99 and I got it for $17.99. I don't think you'll get
it for $9.99
Bruce
In rec.woodworking
Igor <[email protected]> wrote:
>On Wed, 10 Sep 2003 03:42:41 GMT, "Wade Lippman" <[email protected]>
>wrote:
>>For $10 you can get a voltage sensor that tells you if a wire is hot, just
>>by being near it.
>>There doesn't have to be any current flowing; if you have an open circuit,
>>it can tell the difference between the hot and the neutral. (If there is
>>current, then they are both hot; duh)
>>
>
>Well, that's a bit different than what Bruce posted. What's this thing
>called? Do you know who makes it? Any webstore address? Thanks.
>
>Bruce -- do you have any thoughts on this?
Well, this one says it can do it. I'll admit that I didn't know about it
before:
http://www.professionalequipment.com/xq/ASP/ProductID.58/id.5/subID.56/qx/default.htm
In rec.woodworking
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> the poster child for the statment
"A fool and his money are soon parted" wrote:
>HF doesn't offer "Quality" IMHO; however, they do provide a place for all
>the bottom feeders to shop.
>
>Think it was John Ruskin who said something like, "You can always find
>someone with a lower price."
LOL!
It was Eric Hoffer (1902 - 1983) that said this:
"Rudeness is the weak man's imitation of strength."
Igor <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Wed, 10 Sep 2003 03:42:41 GMT, "Wade Lippman" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>>For $10 you can get a voltage sensor that tells you if a wire is hot, just
>>by being near it.
>>There doesn't have to be any current flowing; if you have an open circuit,
>>it can tell the difference between the hot and the neutral. (If there is
>>current, then they are both hot; duh)
>>
> Well, that's a bit different than what Bruce posted. What's this thing
> called? Do you know who makes it? Any webstore address? Thanks.
> Bruce -- do you have any thoughts on this?
He's referring to inductance meters and you can buy them at almost
any electric supply store. I bought mine at Home Depot for about
$10-$15. It will detect an AC voltage when you get it near the
wire.
Lance
Igor <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 11 Sep 2003 12:55:46 -0600, Lance Spaulding <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>>
>>He's referring to inductance meters and you can buy them at almost
>>any electric supply store. I bought mine at Home Depot for about
>>$10-$15. It will detect an AC voltage when you get it near the
>>wire.
>>
>>Lance
> Yes, but even w/ no current flowing -- i.e., nothing is operating on the
> circuit at the time?
Yes.
Lance
In rec.woodworking
Igor <[email protected]> wrote:
>Bruce -- According to the company at that link, who I just called, the
>device will detect voltage w/o current flowing. Now, the guy I spoke with
>had to ask someone else, and so who knows. (He said, "Well, some current
>is always flowing.") But that could be enough for me to at least get the
>thing -- but verify, then trust.
Well, current is certainly NOT always flowing. I'm not saying it couldn't
work but I don't think it is by induction.
In rec.woodworking
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote:
>RE: The Subject
>
>HF doesn't offer "Quality" IMHO; however, they do provide a place for all
>the bottom feeders to shop.
I was reading some of your other posts and found this:
"Porter Cable worte the definitive standard.
If you can beat their performance, at a lower price, then do it."
Interesting comment. I bought a framing nailer at HF for $139. The parts
are interchangeable with the Porter-Cable framing nailer available at Sams
Club for $227. Mine drives nails like bullets and I built about 300' of
fence with it and experienced no problems.
Your creed should be, "Ignorance is bliss" because you don't have the
intelligence to determine what tools to buy at HF and what tools to buy
elsewhere. Because of this, you default and buy them all elsewhere and
look down your nose at the smart folks.
The Pacific rim does not engineer, they reverse engineer. It takes no
brains to copy something. You go to a name brand tool store and buy your
Swanson Speed Square (TM), I'll buy the one cast from a mold made from a
Swanson and pay 1/4 the price.
Incidentally, when I started this thread, we were comparing a $274 Fluke
Clamp Meter to a $17 Harbor Freight Clamp Meter. Guess which one reads 0.2
amps when measuring air? The Fluke and for low current, less than 3 amps
or so, it adds that value to the displayed current, verified with a
calibrated, current limited, laboratory model, bench power supply. So,
pick you up one of those Flukes too but if you need accuracy, give me a
call. I may loan you mine.
In rec.woodworking
Michael Burton <mhburton@zzz|moment.net> wrote:
>It does work by measuring the inductive field, but they only work on AC
>voltage because of the wave form. Since it is always cycling from 0 volts
>to full voltage at 60hZ, the detector can catch the magnetic field induced
>from the cycling.
Since we're being pedantic, it is cycling from +120 to -120 volts, not 0.
In rec.woodworking
[email protected] (Rich Stern) wrote:
>>Since we're being pedantic, it is cycling from +120 to -120 volts, not 0.
>>
>
>If we want to be pedantic and correct, it would be +169 to - 169 volts.
>
>120 volts is the root mean square of the peak voltage in the waveform.
True :)
On 15 Sep 2003 02:43:33 GMT, [email protected] (Rich Stern) wrote:
>>
>>Since we're being pedantic, it is cycling from +120 to -120 volts, not 0.
>>
>
>If we want to be pedantic and correct, it would be +169 to - 169 volts.
>
>120 volts is the root mean square of the peak voltage in the waveform.
>
>Rich S.
There's a piece of trivia that I never knew existed, let along the answer
to it. It is like when I learned the word "defenestrate" in math class in
7th grade. Out of context, but interesting all the same. Oh, the wreck.
I previously wrote:
> >HF doesn't offer "Quality" IMHO; however, they do provide a place for all
> >the bottom feeders to shop.
"Bruce" writes:
> I was reading some of your other posts and found this:
>
> "Porter Cable worte the definitive standard.
> If you can beat their performance, at a lower price, then do it."
I still stand by that comment as stated for the PC-504.
> Interesting comment. I bought a framing nailer at HF for $139. The parts
> are interchangeable with the Porter-Cable framing nailer available at Sams
> Club for $227. Mine drives nails like bullets and I built about 300' of
> fence with it and experienced no problems.
I can offer no comment since I have no use for a nailer around a boat.
> Your creed should be, "Ignorance is bliss" because you don't have the
> intelligence to determine what tools to buy at HF and what tools to buy
> elsewhere. Because of this, you default and buy them all elsewhere and
> look down your nose at the smart folks.
You are entitled to your misguided opinion; however, let me assure you, as a
builder of a fiberglass boat, the tools I use are exposed to an extremely
agressive environment.
Even with diligent maintenance, most tools, especially electrically powered
hand tools, don't last long, thus my comment above about the P-C, 504 belt
sander. It is the only one to survive more than 90 days.
BTW, the lower performance P-C belt sanders didn't survive either.
As I said, Harbor Freight provides a source for commodity items such as
latex gloves, chip brushes, etc, and I use them for those items; however,
having said that, haven't seen any tool in their product line that would
survive a week in my boat yard.
> The Pacific rim does not engineer, they reverse engineer. It takes no
> brains to copy something. You go to a name brand tool store and buy your
> Swanson Speed Square (TM), I'll buy the one cast from a mold made from a
> Swanson and pay 1/4 the price.
Just to have a little fun, don't have a clue what a Swanson Speed Square
(TM) is but as a boat builder, probably don't have much use for one
either<G>, but to each his own.
Frankly, the cost of tools, regardless the price paid for them, gets lost in
the wash when you add the cost of materials, space rental, and the most
expensive component of all, my time.
If I loose a half day because of a tool malfunction, I have lost some
serious money. It's a gamble I don't often take.
> Incidentally, when I started this thread, we were comparing a $274 Fluke
> Clamp Meter to a $17 Harbor Freight Clamp Meter. Guess which one reads
0.2
> amps when measuring air? The Fluke and for low current, less than 3 amps
> or so, it adds that value to the displayed current, verified with a
> calibrated, current limited, laboratory model, bench power supply. So,
> pick you up one of those Flukes too but if you need accuracy, give me a
> call. I may loan you mine.
I won't get into a pissing contest about test meters.
There is no escape from that one; however, will pass on your offer since we
have a Fluke one for the business, but never take it near the boat yard.
Don't have much need for a high tech meter to check out 12 VDC equipment.
Usually not trying to chase down microamp currents.<W>
--
Lew
S/A: Challenge, The Bullet Proof Boat, (Under Construction in the Southland)
Visit: <http://home.earthlink.net/~lewhodgett> for Pictures
Need to watch the sales at Harbor Freight VERY closely. Sale prices vary
every month. I bought the exact same model for $9.99. The 7 function DVM
sell for as cheap as $2.99, or as high as $12.99
(http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=35761) I
get their sales flyers frequently and scour them, taking note of the prices
of items. They're sneaky, but that meter was still a steal at $18!
"Bruce" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Sorry it isn't woodworking stuff but I thought some might find this pic
> interesting. I'm comparing the reading of my brand new $17.99 (usually
> $44.99) Clamp Meter I got this weekend at Harbor Freight with a $274 Fluke
> True RMS Clamp Meter from work. I'm checking current draw on my home AC
> unit with them both at once.
>
> http://home.swbell.net/snaphook/Pics/Clamp%20Meters.jpg
>
> That $17.99 gets you a clamp on ammeter as well as VOM, probes and a nylon
> pouch. The range is the same as the Fluke also.
>
> Bruce
>
>
"Igor" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Wed, 10 Sep 2003 03:31:01 GMT, [email protected] (Bruce) wrote:
>
> >
> >Using an amp probe for this is a good way to have a shocking experience.
> >It is possible to have voltage present but no current flowing. In my
> >picture, if the AC wasn't running, and I was upstream of the relay, it
> >would show 0.0 amps but there is 220 volts AC waiting for me to snip it
> >with my side-cutters.
> >
> >I would tend to probe the wire at a termination if possible. If not, the
> >only safe way I know of is to pierce the insulation with a probe on a
volt
> >meter and measure voltage. You will have to have a ground also, so
you'll
> >probably be piercing 2 wires. If you sharpen the tips of your probes, it
> >isn't a big deal usually. There are also test lights that do the same
> >thing. Make sure you have the right voltage type and value.
> >
> >I've seen a small pen type device that you can hold on a wire and it will
> >light up but that must be from induction, just like the amp probe so it
> >wouldn't work unless current was flowing.
>
> Well, as I said, the downside was too great if I was wrong. Thanks.
There
> are some romex wires in my basement that I think are orphaned and I'd like
> to clean things up, so it looks like I have to go back to Plan A -- throw
> the main disconnect first.
For $10 you can get a voltage sensor that tells you if a wire is hot, just
by being near it.
There doesn't have to be any current flowing; if you have an open circuit,
it can tell the difference between the hot and the neutral. (If there is
current, then they are both hot; duh)
A clamp meter? All of my clamps have their size stamped or cast right into
the side.
It doesn't really sound like you need a "meter" - maybe a better bet would a
set of gage blocks to verify that the number stamped on the side is
correct?
> You guys are off track. I'm talking about a CLAMP meter, not a VOM.
Here:
>
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=41080
>
> It is regularly $44.99 and I got it for $17.99. I don't think you'll get
> it for $9.99
>
> Bruce
[email protected] (Bruce) wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> In rec.woodworking
> Igor <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>Bruce -- According to the company at that link, who I just called, the
>>device will detect voltage w/o current flowing. Now, the guy I spoke
>>with had to ask someone else, and so who knows. (He said, "Well, some
>>current is always flowing.") But that could be enough for me to at
>>least get the thing -- but verify, then trust.
>
> Well, current is certainly NOT always flowing. I'm not saying it
> couldn't work but I don't think it is by induction.
>
It does work by measuring the inductive field, but they only work on AC
voltage because of the wave form. Since it is always cycling from 0 volts
to full voltage at 60hZ, the detector can catch the magnetic field induced
from the cycling.
They WON'T work on DC voltage, or at least the one I have won't.
Michael
Igor <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
>
> Wow. Electrician in a gas processing plant. You have many ways to
> die -- and make the evening news. (Hope that is not too morbid --
> just sounds hi-risk.) So, safety must be extra important. Thanks for
> the info.
>
Hah! :-) Yeah, I was sorta jumpy when I first started working around
natural gas, but it is something you get used to. I just have to remember
that everything around me is under 800psi pressure or higher and burns like
hell! We process about 130 million cubic feet of gas per day, so there is
LOTS of opportunity to screw up if we are not careful. We have a great
bunch of guys that know there business though, so we actually feel pretty
safe there.
Igor <[email protected]> wrote in message > Well, as I said, the downside was too great if I was wrong. Thanks. There
> are some romex wires in my basement that I think are orphaned and I'd like
> to clean things up, so it looks like I have to go back to Plan A -- throw
> the main disconnect first.
Always a smart idea to turn off the power first. Try to trace back the
wires to the source though before you start snipping.
On Wed, 10 Sep 2003 03:42:41 GMT, "Wade Lippman" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>For $10 you can get a voltage sensor that tells you if a wire is hot, just
>by being near it.
>There doesn't have to be any current flowing; if you have an open circuit,
>it can tell the difference between the hot and the neutral. (If there is
>current, then they are both hot; duh)
>
Well, that's a bit different than what Bruce posted. What's this thing
called? Do you know who makes it? Any webstore address? Thanks.
Bruce -- do you have any thoughts on this?
RE: The Subject
HF doesn't offer "Quality" IMHO; however, they do provide a place for all
the bottom feeders to shop.
Think it was John Ruskin who said something like, "You can always find
someone with a lower price."
--
Lew
S/A: Challenge, The Bullet Proof Boat, (Under Construction in the Southland)
Visit: <http://home.earthlink.net/~lewhodgett> for Pictures
"2manytoyz" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Need to watch the sales at Harbor Freight VERY closely. Sale prices vary
> every month. I bought the exact same model for $9.99. The 7 function DVM
> sell for as cheap as $2.99, or as high as $12.99
> (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=35761)
I
> get their sales flyers frequently and scour them, taking note of the
prices
> of items. They're sneaky, but that meter was still a steal at $18!
>
>
They have two models. The other one doesn't have a display back light
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=30756
The back light might be useful in low light situations.
> "Bruce" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Sorry it isn't woodworking stuff but I thought some might find this pic
> > interesting. I'm comparing the reading of my brand new $17.99 (usually
> > $44.99) Clamp Meter I got this weekend at Harbor Freight with a $274
Fluke
> > True RMS Clamp Meter from work. I'm checking current draw on my home AC
> > unit with them both at once.
> >
> > http://home.swbell.net/snaphook/Pics/Clamp%20Meters.jpg
> >
> > That $17.99 gets you a clamp on ammeter as well as VOM, probes and a
nylon
> > pouch. The range is the same as the Fluke also.
> >
> > Bruce
> >
> >
>
>
On Wed, 10 Sep 2003 03:31:01 GMT, [email protected] (Bruce) wrote:
>
>Using an amp probe for this is a good way to have a shocking experience.
>It is possible to have voltage present but no current flowing. In my
>picture, if the AC wasn't running, and I was upstream of the relay, it
>would show 0.0 amps but there is 220 volts AC waiting for me to snip it
>with my side-cutters.
>
>I would tend to probe the wire at a termination if possible. If not, the
>only safe way I know of is to pierce the insulation with a probe on a volt
>meter and measure voltage. You will have to have a ground also, so you'll
>probably be piercing 2 wires. If you sharpen the tips of your probes, it
>isn't a big deal usually. There are also test lights that do the same
>thing. Make sure you have the right voltage type and value.
>
>I've seen a small pen type device that you can hold on a wire and it will
>light up but that must be from induction, just like the amp probe so it
>wouldn't work unless current was flowing.
Well, as I said, the downside was too great if I was wrong. Thanks. There
are some romex wires in my basement that I think are orphaned and I'd like
to clean things up, so it looks like I have to go back to Plan A -- throw
the main disconnect first.
On 11 Sep 2003 12:55:46 -0600, Lance Spaulding <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>He's referring to inductance meters and you can buy them at almost
>any electric supply store. I bought mine at Home Depot for about
>$10-$15. It will detect an AC voltage when you get it near the
>wire.
>
>Lance
Yes, but even w/ no current flowing -- i.e., nothing is operating on the
circuit at the time?
On Wed, 10 Sep 2003 01:52:56 GMT, [email protected] (Bruce) wrote:
>Sorry it isn't woodworking stuff but I thought some might find this pic
>interesting. I'm comparing the reading of my brand new $17.99 (usually
>$44.99) Clamp Meter I got this weekend at Harbor Freight with a $274 Fluke
>True RMS Clamp Meter from work. I'm checking current draw on my home AC
>unit with them both at once.
>
>http://home.swbell.net/snaphook/Pics/Clamp%20Meters.jpg
>
>That $17.99 gets you a clamp on ammeter as well as VOM, probes and a nylon
>pouch. The range is the same as the Fluke also.
>
>Bruce
This may be a real stupid question to something that is very obvious, but
the downside "potential" for me is too great: This type of meter is what
one can use to see if a wire is hot before cutting it? I need the most
basic tool for that function.
BTW, about random prices at HF -- it seems that one set of numbers is the
item and the other is for the catalog, at least when I shop on-line at HF
(don't have a brick store near me). At any one time for a single item on
their site you can get many different prices depending on if you simply
search their site for an item or if you enter numbers from a catalog, and
then depending on which catalog.
On Thu, 11 Sep 2003 00:16:56 GMT, [email protected] (Bruce) wrote:
>
>Well, this one says it can do it. I'll admit that I didn't know about it
>before:
>
>http://www.professionalequipment.com/xq/ASP/ProductID.58/id.5/subID.56/qx/default.htm
Bruce -- According to the company at that link, who I just called, the
device will detect voltage w/o current flowing. Now, the guy I spoke with
had to ask someone else, and so who knows. (He said, "Well, some current
is always flowing.") But that could be enough for me to at least get the
thing -- but verify, then trust.
On Thu, 11 Sep 2003 00:16:56 GMT, [email protected] (Bruce) wrote:
>In rec.woodworking
>Igor <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>Bruce -- do you have any thoughts on this?
>
>Well, this one says it can do it. I'll admit that I didn't know about it
>before:
>
>http://www.professionalequipment.com/xq/ASP/ProductID.58/id.5/subID.56/qx/default.htm
Thanks for the extra effort. If I understand your original posts, it does
seem strange that this item claims to detect "AC voltage range 110~600V"
w/o any mention of current flowing. It would be easy enough to test if I
got one -- run it along a lamp cord with the lamp on and with it off.
$8.50 S&H charge. I suppose I can give them a call. If I can get some
info, I'll post more.