My back door had been sticking for years ever since I had new lineoleum
with underlayment put down, had gotten so bad over the years that I have
had to cut parts of the floor away and tug hard for it to clear. You
have to pull up on it and tug hard to get it open halfway, then it's
stuck.
It's like pulling teeth to find someone to do odd jobs reasonably, so
I've been sleuthing. A guy who came to fix the toilet and garbage
disposal graciously took the door off for me, we hauled it to his van
(heavy sucker), he took it to the hardware store, I had called ahead to
explain exactly what I needed and the composition of the door, they'd
trim it for $5. When he got it to the hardware store, they wouldn't do
it. I guess it might ruin their $150 diamond saw blade, and I had
evidently talked to some kid at the front desk.
Now what to do? I have called the hardware store again to find out
about a saw blade. My granddaughter's boyfriend has a cirular saw; I
had one but it disappeared like so many things do if they aren't nailed
down around here, and I was told that I should buy the right size blade
for his saw called a "cutoff wheel" for metal and that we might need
two, watch that it doesn't heat up too much.
Does this sound reasonable? I wouldn't mind a new door and put this one
on the garage and get rid of the horror that is on there now, but I know
you are just asking for problems especially since the garage door is
hinged from the opposite side from the "problem" door. The current one
is on there "backwards" because it was once the back door to the house,
same as the "problem" door now..
I have two really nice doors my daughter picked up out of some junk, and
they might fit the garage; I don't know, didn't like the style as well
as what's on there, but you can't be too picky when you are trying to
get things done on a budget. They are wood and could be cut down for
the garage, but I really didn't want either one on the garage and
certainly don't want them for a back door.
Now I find out in my city I can have cement poured for new slab on porch
and new steps, can erect two arbors, but I have to get an $11 permit to
hang a new door on the house, if I go that route!
>A metal cutting blade has no teeth so you can't simply cut the end off the
>door in one pass. It grinds the metal off more than cuts it off. You have
>to set the depth of cut to something less than the thickness of the metal
>cladding and make a pass the full width of the door. Then, increase the
>depth of cut some and make a second pass. Continue until you are completely
>through the cladding on one side of the door. Turn the door over and repeat
>on the other side.
A 'metal' cutting circular blade AKA composite blade doen't cut. It
grinds/erodes. It makes sparks and heat. Any wood or plastic
material behind or under the cut line will burn/melt. At the bottom
of the door this may not be an issue. What may be an issue is the
thin metal cladding on the door is ripe for warping from the heat and
the paint will burn. You might want to think about taking the door
to a metalworking shop and having them run it through a bandsaw or if
you know someone with a bandsaw, buy them the metal cutting blade
(about 18 TPI or more) for the use of the saw. You can do this in one
pass.
Pete
"I Love Lucy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Now what to do? I have called the hardware store again to find out
> about a saw blade. My granddaughter's boyfriend has a cirular saw; I
> had one but it disappeared like so many things do if they aren't nailed
> down around here, and I was told that I should buy the right size blade
> for his saw called a "cutoff wheel" for metal and that we might need
> two, watch that it doesn't heat up too much.
He's right. Buy a metal cutting blade for the circular saw and go at it.
You will probably have to make the cut in several passes on each side. You
shouldn't need two blades for something as small as a door.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
"I Love Lucy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> OK, that is encouraging and thanks very much. Only the bottom needs
> cutting if it is going back where it was, so I don't understand your
> saying "several passes on each side". Can't we cut what we think needs
> to come off in one pass, about 3/8 inch? Or do we need to take it in
> smaller slices?
A metal cutting blade has no teeth so you can't simply cut the end off the
door in one pass. It grinds the metal off more than cuts it off. You have
to set the depth of cut to something less than the thickness of the metal
cladding and make a pass the full width of the door. Then, increase the
depth of cut some and make a second pass. Continue until you are completely
through the cladding on one side of the door. Turn the door over and repeat
on the other side.
As for your concern for the bottom of the door after you trim off the end -
you could always cut a piece of wood that fits snugly into the cladding.
Finish it with a door sweep and you would be all set.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
<[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
>
>>A metal cutting blade has no teeth so you can't simply cut the end off
>>the
>>door in one pass. It grinds the metal off more than cuts it off. You
>>have
>>to set the depth of cut to something less than the thickness of the
>>metal
>>cladding and make a pass the full width of the door. Then, increase
>>the
>>depth of cut some and make a second pass. Continue until you are
>>completely
>>through the cladding on one side of the door. Turn the door over and
>>repeat
>>on the other side.
>
>
> A 'metal' cutting circular blade AKA composite blade doen't cut. It
> grinds/erodes. It makes sparks and heat. Any wood or plastic
> material behind or under the cut line will burn/melt. At the bottom
> of the door this may not be an issue. What may be an issue is the
> thin metal cladding on the door is ripe for warping from the heat and
> the paint will burn. You might want to think about taking the door
> to a metalworking shop and having them run it through a bandsaw or if
> you know someone with a bandsaw, buy them the metal cutting blade
> (about 18 TPI or more) for the use of the saw. You can do this in one
> pass.
I'm fed up with my garage entry door and two windows (glass broken, door
not worth putting new glass in), not the one the car goes through, it is
nice, replaced several years ago but in good condition because it seldom
gets used. So I'm getting new ones from a millwork company and having
them put in right (new framing) even though some people would think it
silly to spend money on that garage. It looks like a little Martha
Stewart cottage and I like it. If I sell this place, it will be all
wasted because a new owner would doubtless want a two car garage facing
the other way to exit to a street that didn't exist when this bungalow
was built in about the 20's or 30's (never could find the date). I
can't worry about what a new owner might do or not do.
In the process of talking to them about that, they will come look at the
job, give me an estimate talk about options for the garage, and take my
back door into their shop and cut it for me. It will cost about $100.
That is cheaper than buying a new door, and even though this is an older
model, it is sturdy and well made, probably better than ones you pick up
at the big box stores today. Plus I won't have to worry about
reframing, hinges, handle, lockset, etc., on the door that needs cut
down. Now I just hope everything goes according to plan.
Thanks for all the input everybody.
>
> Pete
>
"Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "I Love Lucy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>
>> Now what to do? I have called the hardware store again to find out
>> about a saw blade. My granddaughter's boyfriend has a cirular saw; I
>> had one but it disappeared like so many things do if they aren't
>> nailed
>> down around here, and I was told that I should buy the right size
>> blade
>> for his saw called a "cutoff wheel" for metal and that we might need
>> two, watch that it doesn't heat up too much.
>
> He's right. Buy a metal cutting blade for the circular saw and go at
> it.
> You will probably have to make the cut in several passes on each side.
> You
> shouldn't need two blades for something as small as a door.
OK, that is encouraging and thanks very much. Only the bottom needs
cutting if it is going back where it was, so I don't understand your
saying "several passes on each side". Can't we cut what we think needs
to come off in one pass, about 3/8 inch? Or do we need to take it in
smaller slices? We need to figure for some kind of recapping/insulation
for the bottom because I don't think we can salvage the plastic strip
that is glued on there tight now. WRT the latter, I will go to the
hardware store and see what the heck he is talking about there, the guy
was telling me about something you can put on in lieu of the plastic. I
know there are felt strips you can nail or glue on for weather
seal/insulation, but I'm not sure we want to go that route for that. It
could come loose and cause jamming again.
Did you mean start at one side of the bottom and cut a ways and then
switch to the other side of the bottom and cut a ways, hoping to meet in
the middle? That doesn't sound like a good idea. There should be some
kind of guide you can set with the saw, I hope anyway, or we'll have to
figure something else out. It would be nice to have a neat, stright
cut. Having cut a few things myself with no experience, I have had to
settle for things not being as neat and tidy as I would prefer.
Also, I checked the hinges, and the screws still seem tight on the door
frame, but can't check the hinges on the door because I can't lift it by
myself and they are presently underneath but will do to see if the
screws there have come loose. The door was sagging a tiny bit (I can
live with that) which was adding to the problem.
>
>
> --
>
> -Mike-
> [email protected]
>
>
"Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "I Love Lucy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>
>> OK, that is encouraging and thanks very much. Only the bottom needs
>> cutting if it is going back where it was, so I don't understand your
>> saying "several passes on each side". Can't we cut what we think
>> needs
>> to come off in one pass, about 3/8 inch? Or do we need to take it in
>> smaller slices?
>
> A metal cutting blade has no teeth so you can't simply cut the end off
> the
> door in one pass. It grinds the metal off more than cuts it off. You
> have
> to set the depth of cut to something less than the thickness of the
> metal
> cladding and make a pass the full width of the door. Then, increase
> the
> depth of cut some and make a second pass. Continue until you are
> completely
> through the cladding on one side of the door. Turn the door over and
> repeat
> on the other side.
>
> As for your concern for the bottom of the door after you trim off the
> end -
> you could always cut a piece of wood that fits snugly into the
> cladding.
> Finish it with a door sweep and you would be all set.
Thank you for clarifying that. I now understand what you are saying and
we will proceed in that manner, hoping it works as planned.
>
> --
>
> -Mike-
> [email protected]
>
>