--Waaaaay back in '81 I bought a Makita Model 2030 jointer planer
and it's been a trooper. But time has taken its toll and recently the feed
rollers gave up the ghost: the rubber just crumbled off of the steel shafts
looking like a pile of rock candy! So I called the Makita repair depot and
the price for replacement parts is $201.- *each*. That and 2 hrs labor to
install 'em and I'm looking at a $500.- bill to fix it. I really don't want
to buy a new machine. I'm wondering if there might be an alternative; i.e.
getting the rollers rebuilt somewhere. Does anyone know of an outfit that
does this sort of thing, preferably somewhere in California?
--Thanks,
--
"Steamboat Ed" Haas : Steel, Stainless, Titanium:
Hacking the Trailing Edge! : Guaranteed Uncertified Welding!
www.nmpproducts.com
---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---
"steamer" wrote:
> --Waaaaay back in '81 I bought a Makita Model 2030 jointer planer
> and it's been a trooper. But time has taken its toll and recently
> the feed
> rollers gave up the ghost: the rubber just crumbled off of the steel
> shafts
> looking like a pile of rock candy!
-------------------------------------
If you have access to an engine lathe, making replacement rollers is a
piece of cake.
Lew
--Thanks for that idea; when I get the thing apart I'll have a
better idea of what's what but that sounds like a viable approach.
--Yes I do have a lathe so I can reduce the o.d. to fit a 'common'
rubber hose if I can find such with an o.d. close to what's needed. That
might fill the bill.
Thanks all!
--
"Steamboat Ed" Haas : Steel, Stainless, Titanium:
Hacking the Trailing Edge! : Guaranteed Uncertified Welding!
www.nmpproducts.com
---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---
--Neat idea! I've got a selection of plastics of different durometer
on a keychain somewhere; if I could match the squishiness of the original
stuff it'd be an easy matter to get new material and wrap it as you suggest.
Have no idea what the original Shore number was but I suspect I can make a
good guess.
--
"Steamboat Ed" Haas : Steel, Stainless, Titanium:
Hacking the Trailing Edge! : Guaranteed Uncertified Welding!
www.nmpproducts.com
---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---
I've never seen this model, but I've had to repair/maintain equipment
with no money. If you're very lucky, you might be able to find a
piece of rubber tubing (or hose) that has the right ID and OD to
work. You can make a piece that's got a greater diameter work by
slitting the hose lengthwise and trimming out a section. Glue it to
the rollers with contact cement, clamping in place with hose clamps
until the glue sets. This is a lasr resort, and is really more of a
"patch" than a "repair". Or you could just wrap the rollers in duct
tape (grin).
On Dec 21, 4:09=A0pm, steamer <[email protected]> wrote:
> =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 --Waaaaay back in '81 I bought a Makita Model 2030 jointe=
r planer
> and it's been a trooper. But time has taken its toll and recently the fee=
d
> rollers gave up the ghost: the rubber just crumbled off of the steel shaf=
ts
> looking like a pile of rock candy! So I called the Makita repair depot an=
d
> the price for replacement parts is $201.- *each*. That =A0and 2 hrs labor=
to
> install 'em and I'm looking at a $500.- bill to fix it. I really don't wa=
nt
> to buy a new machine. I'm wondering if there might be an alternative; i.e=
.
> getting the rollers rebuilt somewhere. Does anyone know of an outfit that
> does this sort of thing, preferably somewhere in California?
> =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 --Thanks,
>
> --
> =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 "Steamboat Ed" Haas =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 : =A0Steel, Stainless=
, Titanium:
> =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 Hacking the Trailing Edge! =A0: =A0Guaranteed Uncertified=
Welding!
> =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0www.nmpproducts.com
> =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0---Decks a-wash in a sea of words-=
--
Check with a local x-ray film supplier, processor repair, etc., i.e.,
businesses that service X-ray film processors for hospitals and/or
Dr's offices. The processors have rubber coated rollers and they are
replaced every so often. Might be able to modify one of those or ask
where they are made.... maybe the maker-company has something
applicable, you could use or modify. Those rollers range in size of
1" to 3" diameter and 15" to 17" long. Salvage a used one, probably
get it for free because they won't reuse it.
Many facilities are going digital, so those processors (uses liquid
fixer & developer) are being phased out. I would save those used
rollers, from our office. I made outfeed rollers with some of them.
There may still be some at our office. What size are your rollers?
Sonny
> Be careful how far down you turn it. The feed rate to cutter head speed
> ratio are closely calculated on those things. I don't know how much
> smaller it could get without adversely effecting the cutting quality.
>
> If I were attempting this repair without OEM parts, I would attempt to
> spiral wrap some similar rubber(ish) material around the rollers with
> contact cement. Spiral wrapping (like some drum sanders) means you don't
> need the right size rubber tube. A plumbers supply store might have the
> right rubber material in long enough lengths to wrap the rollers. Just
> wrap in the opposite direction of the rollers' rotation.
>
> --
>
> =A0 -MIKE-
How about wrapping it with tool grip type wrapping? Maybe the
wrapping a tennis shop might use, for wrapping racket handles and the
like, or similar wrap applications. Does a bike shop have handle bar
wrap applications sufficient enough for rollers?
Sonny
On 12/21/2011 4:09 PM, steamer wrote:
> --Waaaaay back in '81 I bought a Makita Model 2030 jointer planer
> and it's been a trooper. But time has taken its toll and recently the feed
> rollers gave up the ghost: the rubber just crumbled off of the steel shafts
> looking like a pile of rock candy! So I called the Makita repair depot and
> the price for replacement parts is $201.- *each*. That and 2 hrs labor to
> install 'em and I'm looking at a $500.- bill to fix it. I really don't want
> to buy a new machine. I'm wondering if there might be an alternative; i.e.
> getting the rollers rebuilt somewhere. Does anyone know of an outfit that
> does this sort of thing, preferably somewhere in California?
Thoughts, not necessarily good ones or terribly useful, maybe, but
thoughts nonetheless... :)
I've never had a planer w/ anything but steel feed rollers; they're
ridged w/ a rough surface. Causes some marking of the wood going in,
but the planer takes the marks out anyway. Perhaps you could machine
the existing rollers to convert w/o the coating although if it was
fairly thick the size might be too small...
Any chance the parts are available from distributors other than Makita
direct for less and do labor yourself?
--
On 12/21/2011 4:09 PM, steamer wrote:
> --Waaaaay back in '81 I bought a Makita Model 2030 jointer planer
> and it's been a trooper. But time has taken its toll and recently the feed
> rollers gave up the ghost: the rubber just crumbled off of the steel shafts
> looking like a pile of rock candy! So I called the Makita repair depot and
> the price for replacement parts is $201.- *each*. That and 2 hrs labor to
> install 'em and I'm looking at a $500.- bill to fix it. I really don't want
> to buy a new machine. I'm wondering if there might be an alternative; i.e.
> getting the rollers rebuilt somewhere. Does anyone know of an outfit that
> does this sort of thing, preferably somewhere in California?
Thoughts, not necessarily good ones or terribly useful, maybe, but
thoughts nonetheless... :)
I've never had a planer w/ anything but steel feed rollers; they're
ridged w/ a rough surface. Causes some marking of the wood going in,
but the planer takes the marks out anyway. Perhaps you could machine
the existing rollers to convert w/o the coating although if it was
fairly thick the size might be too small...
Any chance the parts are available from distributors other than Makita
direct for less and do labor yourself?
--
On 12/22/11 11:38 AM, steamer wrote:
> --Thanks for that idea; when I get the thing apart I'll have a
> better idea of what's what but that sounds like a viable approach.
> --Yes I do have a lathe so I can reduce the o.d. to fit a 'common'
> rubber hose if I can find such with an o.d. close to what's needed. That
> might fill the bill.
> Thanks all!
>
Be careful how far down you turn it. The feed rate to cutter head speed
ratio are closely calculated on those things. I don't know how much
smaller it could get without adversely effecting the cutting quality.
If I were attempting this repair without OEM parts, I would attempt to
spiral wrap some similar rubber(ish) material around the rollers with
contact cement. Spiral wrapping (like some drum sanders) means you don't
need the right size rubber tube. A plumbers supply store might have the
right rubber material in long enough lengths to wrap the rollers. Just
wrap in the opposite direction of the rollers' rotation.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 12/22/2011 12:19 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
...
> Be careful how far down you turn it. The feed rate to cutter head speed
> ratio are closely calculated on those things. I don't know how much
> smaller it could get without adversely effecting the cutting quality.
Well, there are variable feed speed drives and the cutter head speed
doesn't change for a material feed rate of roughly double. Faster is
somewhat rougher, of course, but there's no real precision involved.
Reducing diameter will slow the feed rate down (smaller diameter will
mean slow tangential velocity by the ratio of diameters) so if anything
it's in the direction of better cutting if there's enough change in
diameter to even be noticeable.
I'd think the biggest issue if there's any large reduction in diameter
will be running out of adjustment on downfeed pressure if that is
limited, but even that would be unlikely to be so big a change as to happen.
The idea of a slide-over hose appeals although could be tough to get
accomplished tight enough that any adhesive won't release to keep it
from slipping under load and anything one could manage to get on given
the length probably is too big w/o some sort of help.
I'd think the wrapping has only marginal chance of success given the
loading demands of the infeed roller for anything but the lightest of
duty but guess one hasn't lost anything by trying...
--
On 12/22/11 12:33 PM, Sonny wrote:
>> Be careful how far down you turn it. The feed rate to cutter head speed
>> ratio are closely calculated on those things. I don't know how much
>> smaller it could get without adversely effecting the cutting quality.
>>
>> If I were attempting this repair without OEM parts, I would attempt to
>> spiral wrap some similar rubber(ish) material around the rollers with
>> contact cement. Spiral wrapping (like some drum sanders) means you don't
>> need the right size rubber tube. A plumbers supply store might have the
>> right rubber material in long enough lengths to wrap the rollers. Just
>> wrap in the opposite direction of the rollers' rotation.
>>
>> --
>>
>> -MIKE-
>
> How about wrapping it with tool grip type wrapping? Maybe the
> wrapping a tennis shop might use, for wrapping racket handles and the
> like, or similar wrap applications. Does a bike shop have handle bar
> wrap applications sufficient enough for rollers?
>
> Sonny
IMO, too soft.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 12/22/11 12:37 PM, dpb wrote:
> On 12/22/2011 12:19 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
> ...
>
>> Be careful how far down you turn it. The feed rate to cutter head speed
>> ratio are closely calculated on those things. I don't know how much
>> smaller it could get without adversely effecting the cutting quality.
>
> Well, there are variable feed speed drives and the cutter head speed
> doesn't change for a material feed rate of roughly double. Faster is
> somewhat rougher, of course, but there's no real precision involved.
>
> Reducing diameter will slow the feed rate down (smaller diameter will
> mean slow tangential velocity by the ratio of diameters) so if anything
> it's in the direction of better cutting if there's enough change in
> diameter to even be noticeable.
>
> I'd think the biggest issue if there's any large reduction in diameter
> will be running out of adjustment on downfeed pressure if that is
> limited, but even that would be unlikely to be so big a change as to
> happen.
>
> The idea of a slide-over hose appeals although could be tough to get
> accomplished tight enough that any adhesive won't release to keep it
> from slipping under load and anything one could manage to get on given
> the length probably is too big w/o some sort of help.
>
> I'd think the wrapping has only marginal chance of success given the
> loading demands of the infeed roller for anything but the lightest of
> duty but guess one hasn't lost anything by trying...
>
> --
Load demands? I don't think the pressure involved in anywhere near high
enough to worry about with wrapping/gluing some rubber sheeting around
the rollers.
What I would be worried about in turning down the rollers is changing
the clearance for feeding material. The cutters and rollers have a
pretty specific clearance. Think of changing the diameter of a jointer
cutter head, without the ability to adjust the height of the outfeed table.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 12/22/2011 1:12 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
...
> Load demands? I don't think the pressure involved in anywhere near high
> enough to worry about with wrapping/gluing some rubber sheeting around
> the rollers.
Of course...the feed rollers are the drive mechanism in pulling the
material into the planer, not just hold down. On a sizable piece of
rough material that can be a pretty good load.
> What I would be worried about in turning down the rollers is changing
> the clearance for feeding material. The cutters and rollers have a
> pretty specific clearance. Think of changing the diameter of a jointer
> cutter head, without the ability to adjust the height of the outfeed table.
They're adjustable to adjust pressure on any planer I've ever had. As
long as there's sufficient adjustment, no problemo...
--