I have two 4"x 6"x4' fir pieces that I want to glue together "using clamps
for 24 hrs" and NOT use any screws or nails. My questions are...... Would
Titebond II or III or an equivalent provide a really strong bond or could I
expect them to come apart fairly easy under weight (300 pounds pull)? I am
not really familiar with the newest glues/adhesives. I don't know if glue
bonds are stronger than the wood or not. I am trying to laminate different
size wood together..... but I have to feel somewhat comfortable that they
will not come apart easily.......ie glue 2x4 to a 2x6 to a 4x6
etc.......don't ask :~)
thanks for any help
"buck"
> With good adhesives, will the bond break before the wood, or will wood
> splinter first.... Doug fir in question.
>
> -thanks
>
>
If it is long grain to long grain, titebond will be more than sufficient.
If weather or moisture is going to be a problem, I would use polyurethane
(Gorilla Glue). If direct contact with siginificant amounts of water, then
1, DougFir would not be my choice, and I would epoxy the bond.
Dave
Resorcinol will do it.
Tom
"buck" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I have two 4"x 6"x4' fir pieces that I want to glue together "using clamps
>for 24 hrs" and NOT use any screws or nails. My questions are...... Would
>Titebond II or III or an equivalent provide a really strong bond or could I
>expect them to come apart fairly easy under weight (300 pounds pull)? I am
>not really familiar with the newest glues/adhesives. I don't know if glue
>bonds are stronger than the wood or not. I am trying to laminate different
>size wood together..... but I have to feel somewhat comfortable that they
>will not come apart easily.......ie glue 2x4 to a 2x6 to a 4x6
>etc.......don't ask :~)
>
> thanks for any help
>
"buck" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> I have two 4"x 6"x4' fir pieces that I want to glue together "using
> clamps for 24 hrs" and NOT use any screws or nails. My questions
> are...... Would Titebond II or III or an equivalent provide a really
> strong bond or could I expect them to come apart fairly easy under
> weight (300 pounds pull)?
IF you have good mating surfaces
and
IF the thing you are gluing up isn't going to spend the rest of its life
underwater or out in the rain all day
then any of the Titebonds will be more than adequate.
What the hell are you building?
Scott
Thanks to all so far.... Good stuff! No, the wood won't be getting wet.
Hey Lew.... What kind of epoxy? I will be having to brush it on in large
volumes so can't be too expensive. I can get a gallon of Titebond for less
than $20. Sorry Scott..... Can't tell you.... LOL. With good adhesives,
will the bond break before the wood, or will wood splinter first.... Doug
fir in question.
-thanks
"buck" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I have two 4"x 6"x4' fir pieces that I want to glue together "using clamps
>for 24 hrs" and NOT use any screws or nails. My questions are...... Would
>Titebond II or III or an equivalent provide a really strong bond or could I
>expect them to come apart fairly easy under weight (300 pounds pull)? I am
>not really familiar with the newest glues/adhesives. I don't know if glue
>bonds are stronger than the wood or not. I am trying to laminate different
>size wood together..... but I have to feel somewhat comfortable that they
>will not come apart easily.......ie glue 2x4 to a 2x6 to a 4x6
>etc.......don't ask :~)
>
> thanks for any help
>
"buck" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Thanks to all so far.... Good stuff! No, the wood won't be getting wet.
> Hey Lew.... What kind of epoxy? I will be having to brush it on in large
> volumes so can't be too expensive. I can get a gallon of Titebond for
> less than $20. Sorry Scott..... Can't tell you.... LOL. With good
> adhesives, will the bond break before the wood, or will wood splinter
> first.... Doug fir in question.
>
> -thanks
>
>
>
>
> "buck" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>I have two 4"x 6"x4' fir pieces that I want to glue together "using clamps
>>for 24 hrs" and NOT use any screws or nails. My questions are...... Would
>>Titebond II or III or an equivalent provide a really strong bond or could
>>I expect them to come apart fairly easy under weight (300 pounds pull)? I
>>am not really familiar with the newest glues/adhesives. I don't know if
>>glue bonds are stronger than the wood or not. I am trying to laminate
>>different size wood together..... but I have to feel somewhat comfortable
>>that they will not come apart easily.......ie glue 2x4 to a 2x6 to a 4x6
>>etc.......don't ask :~)
>>
>> thanks for any help
>>
>
>
Since douglas fir is rather weak in the cross grain direction, my bet is on
the wood breaking first.
No matter which glue you use.
Jim
buck wrote:
> Thanks to all so far.... Good stuff! No, the wood won't be getting
> wet. Hey Lew.... What kind of epoxy? I will be having to brush it on
> in large volumes so can't be too expensive. I can get a gallon of
> Titebond for less than $20. Sorry Scott..... Can't tell you.... LOL.
> With good adhesives, will the bond break before the wood, or will
> wood splinter first.... Doug fir in question.
Assuming the pieces being glued have reasonably mating surfaces, any of the
TiteBond glues will work just fine. Wood will break before glue line.
About the cheapest you'll find epoxy is around $60/gal. Two very nice
things about epoxy...surfaces don't have to be perfect (better if they
aren't) and clamping isn't needed. Being viscous, epoxy bridges
imperfections well; however, after wetting out both surfaces, I like to mix
in some Cabosil (fumed silica) so it is about the consistency of mayonnaise
then spread on one surface before weighting or clamping. Actual clamping
isn't necessary, just some way to hold the wood in position until the epoxy
sets up some hours later. Even masking tape is fine.
You said you didn't want to use screws/nails...is that because you don't
want metal in the wood or holes? If the former and you don't use epoxy (I
wouldn't), you can always screw them together and take out the screws later.
If you are short of clamps another alternative is to make them by cutting
off rings from PVC pipe of the appropriate diameter then cutting a slit with
hand/band saw in each ring...easy to make dozens of "C" clamps. Not real
strong (varies with ring width & diameter) but you can make up for that by
using lots of them.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
buck
Hey what are you building ???? Just gotta know lololol
"buck" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I have two 4"x 6"x4' fir pieces that I want to glue together "using clamps
>for 24 hrs" and NOT use any screws or nails. My questions are...... Would
>Titebond II or III or an equivalent provide a really strong bond or could I
>expect them to come apart fairly easy under weight (300 pounds pull)? I am
>not really familiar with the newest glues/adhesives. I don't know if glue
>bonds are stronger than the wood or not. I am trying to laminate different
>size wood together..... but I have to feel somewhat comfortable that they
>will not come apart easily.......ie glue 2x4 to a 2x6 to a 4x6
>etc.......don't ask :~)
>
> thanks for any help
>
On Fri, 28 Jul 2006 19:15:41 -0600, "buck" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I have two 4"x 6"x4' fir pieces that I want to glue together "using clamps
>for 24 hrs" and NOT use any screws or nails. My questions are...... Would
>Titebond II or III or an equivalent provide a really strong bond or could I
>expect them to come apart fairly easy under weight (300 pounds pull)? I am
>not really familiar with the newest glues/adhesives. I don't know if glue
>bonds are stronger than the wood or not. I am trying to laminate different
>size wood together..... but I have to feel somewhat comfortable that they
>will not come apart easily.......ie glue 2x4 to a 2x6 to a 4x6
>etc.......don't ask :~)
>
>thanks for any help
>
All depends on how the two pieces are glued together. Glue surface
area and grain direction are important. Is there a chance the joint
should get wet.
"dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:GmLyg.5141$c11.1852@trnddc08...
> buck wrote:
>> Thanks to all so far.... Good stuff! No, the wood won't be getting
>> wet. Hey Lew.... What kind of epoxy? I will be having to brush it on
>> in large volumes so can't be too expensive. I can get a gallon of
>> Titebond for less than $20. Sorry Scott..... Can't tell you.... LOL.
>> With good adhesives, will the bond break before the wood, or will
>> wood splinter first.... Doug fir in question.
>
> Assuming the pieces being glued have reasonably mating surfaces, any of
> the
> TiteBond glues will work just fine. Wood will break before glue line.
>
> About the cheapest you'll find epoxy is around $60/gal. Two very nice
> things about epoxy...surfaces don't have to be perfect (better if they
> aren't) and clamping isn't needed. Being viscous, epoxy bridges
> imperfections well; however, after wetting out both surfaces, I like to
> mix
> in some Cabosil (fumed silica) so it is about the consistency of
> mayonnaise
> then spread on one surface before weighting or clamping. Actual clamping
> isn't necessary, just some way to hold the wood in position until the
> epoxy
> sets up some hours later. Even masking tape is fine.
>
> You said you didn't want to use screws/nails...is that because you don't
> want metal in the wood or holes? If the former and you don't use epoxy (I
> wouldn't), you can always screw them together and take out the screws
> later.
> If you are short of clamps another alternative is to make them by cutting
> off rings from PVC pipe of the appropriate diameter then cutting a slit
> with
> hand/band saw in each ring...easy to make dozens of "C" clamps. Not real
> strong (varies with ring width & diameter) but you can make up for that by
> using lots of them.
>
> --
>
> dadiOH
> ____________________________
>
> dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
> ...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
> LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
> Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
>
> dadiOH..... Thanks for some good ideas......
>
buck wrote:
> Hey Lew.... What kind of epoxy? I will be having to brush it on in
large
> volumes so can't be too expensive. I can get a gallon of Titebond
for less
> than $20.
Any good laminating epoxy will work just fine.
Do a Google for "west+system" which will get you to the Gougeon
Brothers site.
MAS & System 3 are other suppliers.
Cost is relative.
$20-$30 worth of epoxy will mean you will sleep well at night.
How big an area is the surface to be glued?
Lew
buck wrote:
> I have two 4"x 6"x4' fir pieces that I want to glue together "using
clamps
> for 24 hrs" and NOT use any screws or nails. My questions
are...... Would
> Titebond II or III or an equivalent provide a really strong bond or
could I
> expect them to come apart fairly easy under weight (300 pounds
pull)? I am
> not really familiar with the newest glues/adhesives. I don't know
if glue
> bonds are stronger than the wood or not. I am trying to laminate
different
> size wood together..... but I have to feel somewhat comfortable
that they
> will not come apart easily.......ie glue 2x4 to a 2x6 to a 4x6
> etc.......don't ask :~)
Epoxy.
After that, everything else is down hill.
Lew
"buck" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I have two 4"x 6"x4' fir pieces that I want to glue together "using clamps
>for 24 hrs" and NOT use any screws or nails. My questions are...... Would
>Titebond II or III or an equivalent provide a really strong bond or could I
>expect them to come apart fairly easy under weight (300 pounds pull)? I am
>not really familiar with the newest glues/adhesives. I don't know if glue
>bonds are stronger than the wood or not. I am trying to laminate different
>size wood together..... but I have to feel somewhat comfortable that they
>will not come apart easily.......ie glue 2x4 to a 2x6 to a 4x6
>etc.......don't ask :~)
>
> thanks for any help
>