> > I don't think the table from a reputable manufacturer (Delta,
> > Powermatic, Jet, General, even Grizzly) will be bad enough to be a
> > cause for rejection on a used saw.
>
> The original table on my General International cabinet saw was out of
> flat and the miter slots were not parallel to each other. =A0It was bad
> enough for them to replace it under warranty. =A0The replacement top was
> flatter, but now the right hand miter slot is not the same width all the
> way along so I need to use the miter gauge in the left slot.
>
> I bought a Steel City 18" bandsaw and it had table flatness issues as
> well...bad enough that a miter gauge would hang up on the split in the
> table. =A0They replaced it under warranty.
>
> I think that unless you spend the really big bucks there's going to be
> an element of luck involved.
>
Maybe things out there are worse than I thought. I've been wrong
before, but I just don't see the table flatness itself being a big
problem unless it causes other problems like you described. At least
those problems should be obvious without carrying a straightedge and
feeler gages to shop for a used saw.
DonkeyHody
"Every man is my superior in that I can learn from him." - Thomas
Carlyle
Kevin wrote:
> I'm looking for a good used cabinet saw.
>
> What are the major wear items and average life?
> motor - how many hours?
> arbor bearings - avg life?
> trunnion -
Here's what I'd check:
table flatness
miter slots even in width and parallel to each other
arbour runout
play in the arbour bearings
play in the motor bushings/bearings
belt condition
I like the hour meter myself..
I check flatness and runout. I can check wobble in the bearings.
A motor runs about $500. For the asking price of most saws.. an extra $500
would put the used unit over the price of a new saw.
Any tips for guessing at motor life? Assuming no one changed the belts
that's a good suggestion.
"Chris Friesen" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Kevin wrote:
>> I'm looking for a good used cabinet saw.
>>
>> What are the major wear items and average life?
>> motor - how many hours?
>> arbor bearings - avg life?
>> trunnion -
>
> Here's what I'd check:
>
> table flatness
> miter slots even in width and parallel to each other
> arbour runout
> play in the arbour bearings
> play in the motor bushings/bearings
> belt condition
DonkeyHody wrote:
> I don't think the table from a reputable manufacturer (Delta,
> Powermatic, Jet, General, even Grizzly) will be bad enough to be a
> cause for rejection on a used saw.
The original table on my General International cabinet saw was out of
flat and the miter slots were not parallel to each other. It was bad
enough for them to replace it under warranty. The replacement top was
flatter, but now the right hand miter slot is not the same width all the
way along so I need to use the miter gauge in the left slot.
I bought a Steel City 18" bandsaw and it had table flatness issues as
well...bad enough that a miter gauge would hang up on the split in the
table. They replaced it under warranty.
I think that unless you spend the really big bucks there's going to be
an element of luck involved.
Chris
I've seen big variations across the saw I have and the ones I've looked at.
I could rock noticeably a Starrett straight edge on a Unisaw. I'd guess the
gap was at least 1/16" maybe more.
On an old jet.. I could not see light under any part.. front to back, side
to side, and diagonal.
On my Delta contractor, I have one corner that dips.
I'm not sure it really matters.. but for a 1500 unit.. it ought to be .005"
flat everywere....
"DonkeyHody" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> > I don't think the table from a reputable manufacturer (Delta,
> > Powermatic, Jet, General, even Grizzly) will be bad enough to be a
> > cause for rejection on a used saw.
>
> The original table on my General International cabinet saw was out of
> flat and the miter slots were not parallel to each other. It was bad
> enough for them to replace it under warranty. The replacement top was
> flatter, but now the right hand miter slot is not the same width all the
> way along so I need to use the miter gauge in the left slot.
>
> I bought a Steel City 18" bandsaw and it had table flatness issues as
> well...bad enough that a miter gauge would hang up on the split in the
> table. They replaced it under warranty.
>
> I think that unless you spend the really big bucks there's going to be
> an element of luck involved.
>
Maybe things out there are worse than I thought. I've been wrong
before, but I just don't see the table flatness itself being a big
problem unless it causes other problems like you described. At least
those problems should be obvious without carrying a straightedge and
feeler gages to shop for a used saw.
DonkeyHody
"Every man is my superior in that I can learn from him." - Thomas
Carlyle
"Kevin" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm looking for a good used cabinet saw.
>
> What are the major wear items and average life?
> motor - how many hours?
> arbor bearings - avg life?
> trunnion -
>
>
Next to the hour meter there is a sliding gauge that goes from green to
yellow to red. If it is in the yellow-orange area, it would have to be a
really good price to make it worth while.
On Tue, 19 Feb 2008 10:56:04 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>"Kevin" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> I'm looking for a good used cabinet saw.
>>
>> What are the major wear items and average life?
>> motor - how many hours?
>> arbor bearings - avg life?
>> trunnion -
>>
>>
>
>Next to the hour meter there is a sliding gauge that goes from green to
>yellow to red. If it is in the yellow-orange area, it would have to be a
>really good price to make it worth while.
>
Is the hour meter attached to power cord, is it attached to the
switched power, or does it have its own 50 year battery? Is there a
standard? My Delta contractors saw is attached to the switched power
while the Unisaw is attached to a 50 year battery. Actually the
contractors saw also has a humidistat. There is a delta H adjustment
which I think is for wide humidity swings. I think if the tool is
stored in a conditioned space the hour meter runs at 60 minutes to the
hour instead of 55 minutes to the hour.
On Feb 19, 1:45=A0am, "Kevin" <[email protected]>
wrote:
> I'm looking for a good used cabinet saw.
>
> What are the major wear items and average life?
> motor - how many hours?
> arbor bearings - avg life?
> trunnion -
If you buy a cabinet saw that has not been used in a production
woodshop, there is hardly any chance it has been worn out. Abused,
possibly, but that will show up on visual inspection. If the fence
has to be replaced, that can add about $350 to the cost of your saw.
The motor is the big ticket item. If it starts and runs, sounds and
smells OK, bearings, belts etc. can be replaced at nominal cost.
The Emporer Has NO CLOTHES! I see a lot of people here obsessing over
table flatness. I think table flatness is an indicator of the amount
of care and precision the manufacturer put into their machine. But
after a certain point - not sure what that point really is - table
flatness becomes sort of like the quality of the paint job. Sure it's
a reflection of overall quality, but does it affect the way it works?
I don't think the table from a reputable manufacturer (Delta,
Powermatic, Jet, General, even Grizzly) will be bad enough to be a
cause for rejection on a used saw. When I can get a throat plate
that's as flat as the rest of my table, then I'll worry about how flat
the table is. Right now, I'm using a plywood throat plate because
it's much flatter than the aluminum one that came with my cabinet
saw.
DonkeyHody
"Even an old blind hog finds an acorn every now and then."
I don't think the manufacturers are curing the cast long enough they
only worry how much they can get out the door. If they can get it out 1
day earlier.. they will.. then they'll try for one more day....
Eventually quality suffers.
Also having miters that are not parallel is a serious problem that you
shouldn't have to put up with.
My friend took his pm66 top to a machine shop to get flattened... I
hated to see that polished top disappear... to me the pm top has had one
of the finest fit and finishes.
My delta is out of flat, but I don't worry about it.
DonkeyHody wrote:
>>> I don't think the table from a reputable manufacturer (Delta,
>>> Powermatic, Jet, General, even Grizzly) will be bad enough to be a
>>> cause for rejection on a used saw.
>> The original table on my General International cabinet saw was out of
>> flat and the miter slots were not parallel to each other. It was bad
>> enough for them to replace it under warranty. The replacement top was
>> flatter, but now the right hand miter slot is not the same width all the
>> way along so I need to use the miter gauge in the left slot.
>>
>> I bought a Steel City 18" bandsaw and it had table flatness issues as
>> well...bad enough that a miter gauge would hang up on the split in the
>> table. They replaced it under warranty.
>>
>> I think that unless you spend the really big bucks there's going to be
>> an element of luck involved.
>>
> Maybe things out there are worse than I thought. I've been wrong
> before, but I just don't see the table flatness itself being a big
> problem unless it causes other problems like you described. At least
> those problems should be obvious without carrying a straightedge and
> feeler gages to shop for a used saw.
>
> DonkeyHody
> "Every man is my superior in that I can learn from him." - Thomas
> Carlyle