I am considering getting the P-C 891 Grip-Vac router for a new router table. One
thing I like about the 890 series is that they provide both 1/4" and 1/2" collets.
First though, I have a few questions.
1. Does the above-table bit height adjustment feature work well? That seems to
require two holes in the top. Why are two holes required?
2. Though I may do some panel raising, that is not the most important use for me. Is
the 2.25 HP sufficient for those larger bits if I go slow, but not too slow?
3. Does the one-wrench bit changing work well? Does it all happen above the table or
must one reach under the table for part of it? I assume there is a collet lock
thingie in there somewhere. Perhaps a slider. Is changing bits simple and easy or a
PITA?
Hoyt W.
Michael Daly wrote:
> On 24-Jun-2004, Hoyt Weathers <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > 1. Does the above-table bit height adjustment feature work well? That seems to
> > require two holes in the top. Why are two holes required?
>
> It seems to, but you don't need their tool - you can use an appropriate socket
> wrench (screwdriver type). One hole is used to lock and unlock the cam that
> holds the body of the router in place, while the other adjusts the height.
>
> > 3. Does the one-wrench bit changing work well? Does it all happen above the table or
> > must one reach under the table for part of it? I assume there is a collet lock
> > thingie in there somewhere. Perhaps a slider. Is changing bits simple and easy or a
> > PITA?
>
> Overall, I'm not too impressed with this. There's a widget that pushes a pin into
> the arbor on the router to prevent it from turning. You have to push the router
> all the way in to engage this widget. Sometimes I get it most of the way down and
> the thing gets snug, so I get the feeling it's engaged, but it isn't.
>
> My biggest gripe is with the amount of wiggle in the plunge base. If you get it
> moving vertically smoothly, it seems ok, but a slight change in force on one of the
> two handles and the thing locks up or the bit moves, rotating and sliding sideways.
> Overall, I keep having the nagging feeling I should have got the Bosch 1617 router.
>
> Mike
TKX for your comments Mike. I already have the Bosch 1617 EVS and I love it. It also has
both the 1/4" and 1/2" collets. What it does not have is above-the-table bit-height
adjustment. That specific feature, and only that, is why I was interested in the P-C 891.
I will probably just use my Bosch 1617 EVS and be done with it. I do not really need
another router!
Thanks again,
Hoyt W.
On 24-Jun-2004, Hoyt Weathers <[email protected]> wrote:
> 1. Does the above-table bit height adjustment feature work well? That seems to
> require two holes in the top. Why are two holes required?
It seems to, but you don't need their tool - you can use an appropriate socket
wrench (screwdriver type). One hole is used to lock and unlock the cam that
holds the body of the router in place, while the other adjusts the height.
> 3. Does the one-wrench bit changing work well? Does it all happen above the table or
> must one reach under the table for part of it? I assume there is a collet lock
> thingie in there somewhere. Perhaps a slider. Is changing bits simple and easy or a
> PITA?
Overall, I'm not too impressed with this. There's a widget that pushes a pin into
the arbor on the router to prevent it from turning. You have to push the router
all the way in to engage this widget. Sometimes I get it most of the way down and
the thing gets snug, so I get the feeling it's engaged, but it isn't.
My biggest gripe is with the amount of wiggle in the plunge base. If you get it
moving vertically smoothly, it seems ok, but a slight change in force on one of the
two handles and the thing locks up or the bit moves, rotating and sliding sideways.
Overall, I keep having the nagging feeling I should have got the Bosch 1617 router.
Mike
Everybody needs another router....
This is really want you need:
http://www.jessem.com/rout_r_lift.htm
Once you have used one of these, those cute router
tricks with socket drivers is over....
Hoyt Weathers wrote:
> TKX for your comments Mike. I already have the Bosch 1617 EVS and I love it. It also has
> both the 1/4" and 1/2" collets. What it does not have is above-the-table bit-height
> adjustment. That specific feature, and only that, is why I was interested in the P-C 891.
> I will probably just use my Bosch 1617 EVS and be done with it. I do not really need
> another router!
> > 1. Does the above-table bit height adjustment feature work well? That
seems to
> > require two holes in the top. Why are two holes required?
>
> It seems to, but you don't need their tool - you can use an appropriate
socket
> wrench (screwdriver type). One hole is used to lock and unlock the cam
that
> holds the body of the router in place, while the other adjusts the height.
>
> > 3. Does the one-wrench bit changing work well? Does it all happen above
the table or
> > must one reach under the table for part of it? I assume there is a
collet lock
> > thingie in there somewhere. Perhaps a slider. Is changing bits simple
and easy or a
> > PITA?
>
> Overall, I'm not too impressed with this. There's a widget that pushes a
pin into
> the arbor on the router to prevent it from turning. You have to push the
router
> all the way in to engage this widget. Sometimes I get it most of the way
down and
> the thing gets snug, so I get the feeling it's engaged, but it isn't.
>
> My biggest gripe is with the amount of wiggle in the plunge base. If you
get it
> moving vertically smoothly, it seems ok, but a slight change in force on
one of the
> two handles and the thing locks up or the bit moves, rotating and sliding
sideways.
> Overall, I keep having the nagging feeling I should have got the Bosch
1617 router.
>
If it's like the 8529, you can use two wrenches, and the second wrench is
included in the above-the-table kit. At any rate, the router raizer is
another possibility. It would cost less than another router.
Charlie
"Michael Daly" <[email protected]> wrote ...
> Overall, I'm not too impressed with this. There's a widget that pushes a
pin into
> the arbor on the router to prevent it from turning. You have to push the
router
> all the way in to engage this widget. Sometimes I get it most of the way
down and
> the thing gets snug, so I get the feeling it's engaged, but it isn't.
I agree. Same problem in mine. PITA. Although I still use the mechanism
rather than two wrenches.
> My biggest gripe is with the amount of wiggle in the plunge base.
Also, on the fixed base, the "micro" depth adjuster is virtually useless.
There is a great deal of play in it, and the bit depth does not change
consistent with the amount you turn the adjuster, even after the play is
out. The "worm" mechanism has a flat spot in the thread. I spoke to P-C
support, and this flaw is on all of them. Although I wouldn't rely on the
the adjuster's guage for bit depth in any case -- I measure this directly --
it is still very annoying when trying to zero in a precise depth.
/rick.
"Hoyt Weathers" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> 3. Does the one-wrench bit changing work well? Does it all happen above
the table or
> must one reach under the table for part of it? I assume there is a collet
lock
> thingie in there somewhere. Perhaps a slider. Is changing bits simple and
easy or a
> PITA?
I have had both 1 wrench routers and 2 wrench routers. Experience has
taught me that 2 wrenches is MUCH easier than 1 wrench. With 1 wrench you
always have to grab something else with your other hand. Be that the router
itself if not mounted in a table or the table to give yourself some leverage
as you push or pull the single wrench. With 2 wrenches, you can tighten or
loosen the collet with a squeeze of your single hand.