On Mon, 15 Sep 2003 08:15:30 -0700, "MSH" <knnk@jaacom> pixelated:
>"Ruben Figueroa" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> I am completing a bench, it will be used indoors, I need to know the most
>> scratch resistant top coat available.
It depends upon what you really want, Ruben.
It's interior. What's going to scratch it?
Pants, kids with toys, knives, or screwdrivers?
Do you want a thick finish which is resistant to scratching,
looks and feels like hell, is awfully hard to repair, and
takes a lot of time and effort to fix? Use "good old poly"
like so many of the guys here do.
Do you want a thin finish which looks better to start with,
feels a lot better to the touch (like real wood!), and can
be repaired in a few minutes? Try some Danish oil mixes like
Watco or Tung oil; Waterlox, or Tried & True Varnish Oil.
(Am I a teensy bit opinionated or what? ;)
-
Inside every older person is a younger person wondering WTF happened.
---
http://diversify.com Website Application Programming
Paint.
MH
"Ruben Figueroa" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I am completing a bench, it will be used indoors, I need to know the most
> scratch resistant top coat available.
> Thanks,
> Ruben
>
>
Larry Jaques wrote:
> Do you want a thin finish which looks better to start with,
> feels a lot better to the touch (like real wood!), and can
> be repaired in a few minutes? Try some Danish oil mixes like
> Watco or Tung oil; Waterlox, or Tried & True Varnish Oil.
>
> (Am I a teensy bit opinionated or what? ;)
If it don't look like it's protected by an impenetrable layer of faintly
orange plastic, it ain't finished. :)
Actually, I tried some oil finish on something once. Danish oil I want to
say, but I can't quite remember. Watkins? Watco? After I became
disenchanted with it and subsequently polyurethaned the piece, it finally
looked finished.
No accounting for a lack of taste. ;)
--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
Confirmed post number: 17773 Approximate word count: 533190
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
Ruben,
I agree with Larry on this one.
However, for a relatively simple, non-UV resistant, HARD finish . . . I
reach for the water-based POLY.
If I want a really deep and 'resistant' finish, I 'lay it on' like varnish .
. . several coats with progressively finer grits of sanding between. Ending
with the application of a Teflon containing wax and buffing. I use GLOSS; if
I need a 'non-gloss' finish I do a 'buffing' with BRONZE wool or 600
{plus}Carbide paper.
Regards & Good Luck,
Ron Magen
Backyard Boatshop
"Larry Jaques" <jake@di\/ersify.com> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Mon, 15 Sep 2003 08:15:30 -0700, "MSH" <knnk@jaacom> pixelated:
>
> >"Ruben Figueroa" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >news:[email protected]...
> >> I am completing a bench, it will be used indoors, I need to know the
most
> >> scratch resistant top coat available.
>
> It depends upon what you really want, Ruben.
> It's interior. What's going to scratch it?
>SNIP
"Ruben Figueroa" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I am completing a bench, it will be used indoors, I need to know the most
> scratch resistant top coat available.
> Thanks,
> Ruben
>
>
Vinyl siding.
If that does not work for you, epoxy paint
> "Ruben Figueroa" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > I am completing a bench, it will be used indoors, I need to know the
most
> > scratch resistant top coat available.
> > Thanks,
> > Ruben
> >
> >
>
>"MSH" <knnk@jaacom> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Paint.
>
> MH
>
http://www.rhinolinings.com/ but not that attractive. If you want a
clear seal, try bar top varnish