I don't know if the EPA has taken all the effective pigments and
carriers off the market or what but I can't find wood stain that,
well, stains. Minwax is really awful and Valspar doesn't seem much
better. I need to touch up scratches in a cherry/rosewood finish and
I swear crushing raspberries on the wood would do more than the
commercial stains I've worked with recently. Am I missing a great
product out there somewhere?
On Apr 12, 7:57=A0pm, Chris Nelson <[email protected]> wrote:
> I don't know if the EPA has taken all the effective pigments and
> carriers off the market or what but I can't find wood stain that,
> well, stains. =A0Minwax is really awful and Valspar doesn't seem much
> better. =A0I need to touch up scratches in a cherry/rosewood finish and
> I swear crushing raspberries on the wood would do more than the
> commercial stains I've worked with recently. =A0Am I missing a great
> product out there somewhere?
Artist's oils, burnt or raw sienna or umber can be mixed to
match any wood tone. Thin with Watco or Minwax Antique
Oil and buff in, then topcoat with oil or shellac. Transtint
is good if you can get a match. Mix with water and apply
with a Q-Tip, using the dry end to lighten if needed. Topcoat
again.
"Chris Nelson" wrote:
>I don't know if the EPA has taken all the effective pigments and
> carriers off the market or what but I can't find wood stain that,
> well, stains. Minwax is really awful and Valspar doesn't seem much
> better. I need to touch up scratches in a cherry/rosewood finish
> and
> I swear crushing raspberries on the wood would do more than the
> commercial stains I've worked with recently. Am I missing a great
> product out there somewhere?
------------------------------
Check out these people.
http://tinyurl.com/6vrs3
Can not comment on water based product but have used their solvent
product since early 1970's with success.
Lew
On 4/12/2011 6:21 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
> On Tue, 12 Apr 2011 16:57:39 -0700 (PDT), Chris Nelson
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> I don't know if the EPA has taken all the effective pigments and
>> carriers off the market
>
> They have. Preservatives, too. Nearly all oil finishes are off the
> market nowadays since it costs mfgrs too much to jump throug the EPA
> hoops.
>
>
>> or what but I can't find wood stain that,
>> well, stains. Minwax is really awful and Valspar doesn't seem much
>> better. I need to touch up scratches in a cherry/rosewood finish and
>> I swear crushing raspberries on the wood would do more than the
>> commercial stains I've worked with recently. Am I missing a great
>> product out there somewhere?
>
> I'm still looking, too. Some of my clients like the Olympic MAX, but
> I haven't tried it yet.
>
> I've been very happy with the opaque SuperDeck concrete stains.
> They're like paint but it lasts well. I haven't yet tried their deck
> stains, but will probably use some on a deck I'm refinishing if it
> ever stops raining here this year.<sigh>
>
> Wait a minute, you were talking INTERIOR, weren't you? The best stain
> is the correct wood in the first place.<heh heh heh>
>
> Just to be sure, are you talking "finish" or "stain"? Some people
> confuse the two. Stains (dis)color the wood. Finishes keep it from
> staining. I like Waterlox Original in satin for a finish.
>
> --
> The United States of America is the greatest, the
> noblest and, in its original founding principles,
> the only moral country in the history of the world.
> -- Ayn Rand
...I had to match a flooring color with a stain for an oak stair I'm
doing. Well, I didn't have the time nor the inclination to mess around,
so started looking/calling around local paint stores. You gotta know I
live and work in possibly the worst area for EPA and other
restrictions...Los Angeles/Orange County, you can't buy *anything*
oil-based around here anymore. So, after several calls I found a Frazee
(read "Sinclair") store that would do the work (they had "the room"
nobody else had, apparently). It turned-out to be acetone-base. Well,
after trying it for the first time on a sample, after I picked my jaw
up, I was properly amazed. Color was/is great (kudos to the chemist!)
and it dried so fast (even the odor) I was able to put a clear coat on
it within a couple of hours. Oh, I have to deal with some endgrain,
too, so I experimented with sanding to 320 grit just to see. I don't
need to go any farther...it works like a charm...
cg
I didn't see anyone mention Gel Stain.
I had to use Gel stain on my windows. The windows were Southern pine,
and pre staining test pieces wasn't working out.
I tried some Gel Stain, and I'm impressed. Finally full color in 2
applications. Yes it was Minwax.
There are some neat things Gel will do that regular stain won't.
I'm going to give it a try.
On 4/13/2011 6:05 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
> Oil stains like minwax, etc. are pigment stains. They depend on some
> scratches or other imperfections in the surface for the pigment to
> lodge in. The carrier (oil) can hold them and dry on a perfect flat
> surface but they are really transparent in that regard and don't stain
> as dark as the color shown on the can. This has nothing to do with new
> regulations, just how pigment stains work. Try staining wood saned to
> 150 and try staining the same wood sanded to 600 and you will see the
> difference. The 600 won't hardly stain at all.
>
> 1. You can use a toning method where color is suspended in lacquer or
> ploy. Minwax polyshades is a version of this. It is a poly carrier
> with dyes so it can be pretty dark by making multiple layers.
>
> 2. A pro might use shellac with dye to match the color. Another
> version of toning.
>
> 3. I use crayons or flet tip markers or sharpies or colored pencils or
> shoe polish to fix scrathes then buff with some wax to even out the
> sheen.
>
> On Apr 12, 4:57 pm, Chris Nelson<[email protected]> wrote:
>> I don't know if the EPA has taken all the effective pigments and
>> carriers off the market or what but I can't find wood stain that,
>> well, stains. Minwax is really awful and Valspar doesn't seem much
>> better. I need to touch up scratches in a cherry/rosewood finish and
>> I swear crushing raspberries on the wood would do more than the
>> commercial stains I've worked with recently. Am I missing a great
>> product out there somewhere?
>
Oil stains like minwax, etc. are pigment stains. They depend on some
scratches or other imperfections in the surface for the pigment to
lodge in. The carrier (oil) can hold them and dry on a perfect flat
surface but they are really transparent in that regard and don't stain
as dark as the color shown on the can. This has nothing to do with new
regulations, just how pigment stains work. Try staining wood saned to
150 and try staining the same wood sanded to 600 and you will see the
difference. The 600 won't hardly stain at all.
1. You can use a toning method where color is suspended in lacquer or
ploy. Minwax polyshades is a version of this. It is a poly carrier
with dyes so it can be pretty dark by making multiple layers.
2. A pro might use shellac with dye to match the color. Another
version of toning.
3. I use crayons or flet tip markers or sharpies or colored pencils or
shoe polish to fix scrathes then buff with some wax to even out the
sheen.
On Apr 12, 4:57=A0pm, Chris Nelson <[email protected]> wrote:
> I don't know if the EPA has taken all the effective pigments and
> carriers off the market or what but I can't find wood stain that,
> well, stains. =A0Minwax is really awful and Valspar doesn't seem much
> better. =A0I need to touch up scratches in a cherry/rosewood finish and
> I swear crushing raspberries on the wood would do more than the
> commercial stains I've worked with recently. =A0Am I missing a great
> product out there somewhere?
On Tue, 12 Apr 2011 16:57:39 -0700 (PDT), Chris Nelson
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I don't know if the EPA has taken all the effective pigments and
>carriers off the market
They have. Preservatives, too. Nearly all oil finishes are off the
market nowadays since it costs mfgrs too much to jump throug the EPA
hoops.
>or what but I can't find wood stain that,
>well, stains. Minwax is really awful and Valspar doesn't seem much
>better. I need to touch up scratches in a cherry/rosewood finish and
>I swear crushing raspberries on the wood would do more than the
>commercial stains I've worked with recently. Am I missing a great
>product out there somewhere?
I'm still looking, too. Some of my clients like the Olympic MAX, but
I haven't tried it yet.
I've been very happy with the opaque SuperDeck concrete stains.
They're like paint but it lasts well. I haven't yet tried their deck
stains, but will probably use some on a deck I'm refinishing if it
ever stops raining here this year. <sigh>
Wait a minute, you were talking INTERIOR, weren't you? The best stain
is the correct wood in the first place. <heh heh heh>
Just to be sure, are you talking "finish" or "stain"? Some people
confuse the two. Stains (dis)color the wood. Finishes keep it from
staining. I like Waterlox Original in satin for a finish.
--
The United States of America is the greatest, the
noblest and, in its original founding principles,
the only moral country in the history of the world.
-- Ayn Rand
Ahh yes, Gel Stain. In this case the carrier is thickened so it is
easier to leave it behind with the pigments in suspension. Also very
good at filling scratches especially.It would be a winner for this
need.
I use gel stain like a grain filler when I just want color in the
grain and not so worried about flattening. Jet black gel stain wiped
on and off of raw red oak blackens the grain lines wonderfully.
On Apr 13, 7:18=A0pm, tiredofspam <nospam.nospam.com> wrote:
> I didn't see anyone mention Gel Stain.
For scratches, dings, etc. on furniture, I often use Transtint dye.
Sometimes I mix different colors to get a correct tint or patina
color. If possible, I test the finish to determine what it is, before
selecting which solvent (alcohol [usually], lacquer thinner or water)
to use. Apply with a Q-Tip, wipe immediately. Reapply if need be.
Works for me.
*I only touch up furniture that I'm reupholstering.
Sonny