I assembled a face frame with pocket screws and decided to take the easy
way out and pocket-screw the frame onto the plywood cabinet. This was
successful, except that the oak 1x2 split at one end. I took the
offending screw out and the wood went back together well enough that
it's hard to see, but I'd like to repair it so it won't break off later.
I was wondering if I could clamp the area, drill a hole up into the
split and inject some sort of glue. I see someone has tried this, but
without drilling:
http://lumberjocks.com/woodshaver/blog/31497
Any ideas? If this is possible, advice on the type of glue and syringe
would be helpful.
By the way, in fits and starts, I've made some progress on the CD
Shelves project:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/11575872043/in/photostream/
The method I use, often, for such cases, is to tape the surface, if possibl=
e, then wet any exposed surface, to keep the glue from adhering onto the su=
rface. Squeeze/press the glue into the crack, as best as possible, and, if=
I think I need more glue deeper into the crack, I use the air hose to blow=
the glue down into the crack. This method works best for me in most cases=
.
I never thought to use suction, on the backside, but that should work, if y=
ou can access the backside. For me, the air hose seems quicker and more co=
nvenient.
Comments about syringes and needles:
Syringes and needles aren't (generally) perscription items. They are over-=
the-counter.
Your local pharmacy has TB syringes with 5/8", 21 gauge needles, sometimes =
lower guage needles (larger needles) are available, separately, as well. Y=
ou likely have to buy in bulk, 100 per box. Any size needle fits onto all =
syringe tips, so syringe size doesn't matter. If the hole in the tip of th=
e TB needle is too small, for easy flow of the glue, snip off the sharp tip=
of the needle, then pry open the shaft hole.... the shaft end having been =
smashed flat by the snipping.
A local farmer's co-op may have larger needles, & supplies, for service to =
livestock owners. Many farmers do their own routine injections and such. =
=20
You don't have to suck the glue from the needle end, to get it into the cyl=
inder. Remove the piston from the upper end and pour/squirt the glue into =
the cylinder.... a cleaner procedure, than sucking from the needle end.
Maybe your physician might sell you a syringe and large needle, also.
Your local surgical supply house will likely not sell you, directly, those =
sorts of items, unless you know someone who works there. If available, pur=
chase a damaged box at a discount.... now outlawed, here, that's what roost=
er-fighting folks did, buy damaged boxes for their injections.
Sonny
On 12/27/2013 5:45 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
> I assembled a face frame with pocket screws and decided to take the easy
> way out and pocket-screw the frame onto the plywood cabinet. This was
> successful, except that the oak 1x2 split at one end. I took the
> offending screw out and the wood went back together well enough that
> it's hard to see, but I'd like to repair it so it won't break off later.
>
> I was wondering if I could clamp the area, drill a hole up into the
> split and inject some sort of glue. I see someone has tried this, but
> without drilling:
>
> http://lumberjocks.com/woodshaver/blog/31497
>
> Any ideas? If this is possible, advice on the type of glue and syringe
> would be helpful.
>
> By the way, in fits and starts, I've made some progress on the CD
> Shelves project:
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/11575872043/in/photostream/
I have had good luck with simply prying the split open a small bit and
pouring glue straight into the crack. Obviously you will need for the
crack to be facing up so that gravity will let it go where it will.
You can also use masking tape to keep glue off of any areas that you
don't want it to penetrate, like the end grain. Then clamp and wipe off
the squeeze out. I have never had a piece break off using this method.
Greg Guarino <[email protected]> wrote:
> I assembled a face frame with pocket screws and decided to take the easy
> way out and pocket-screw the frame onto the plywood cabinet. This was
> successful, except that the oak 1x2 split at one end. I took the
> offending screw out and the wood went back together well enough that it's
> hard to see, but I'd like to repair it so it won't break off later.
>
> I was wondering if I could clamp the area, drill a hole up into the split
> and inject some sort of glue. I see someone has tried this, but without drilling:
Using the 1/32" to apply glue inside small cracks is another use for the
versatile polypropylene shim.
http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=66917&cat=1,43456
--
www.ewoodshop.com (Mobile)
In article <[email protected]>, Mike Marlow
<[email protected]> wrote:
> Greg Guarino wrote:
> > I assembled a face frame with pocket screws and decided to take the
> > easy way out and pocket-screw the frame onto the plywood cabinet.
> > This was successful, except that the oak 1x2 split at one end. I took
> > the offending screw out and the wood went back together well enough
> > that it's hard to see, but I'd like to repair it so it won't break
> > off later.
> > I was wondering if I could clamp the area, drill a hole up into the
> > split and inject some sort of glue. I see someone has tried this, but
> > without drilling:
> >
>
> I used to have a syringe a long time ago, but mine was too fine to be really
> useful for glue. You'd have to dilute the glue too much to get it through
> the thing so I junked it. I have spread cracks and used a toothpick to get
> glue inside the crack, working it across the face of the crack in order for
> it to get down inside. If the crack can be opened enough, then of course,
> you can just apply the glue inside it with the toothpick.
My experience is almost exactly the same as yours, Mike.
djb
--
Outside of a dog, a book is man's best friend. Inside a dog, it's too dark to
read. - Groucho Marx
"Greg Guarino" wrote:
>I assembled a face frame with pocket screws and decided to take the
>easy way out and pocket-screw the frame onto the plywood cabinet.
>This was successful, except that the oak 1x2 split at one end. I took
>the offending screw out and the wood went back together well enough
>that it's hard to see, but I'd like to repair it so it won't break
>off later.
<snip>
-------------------------------------------------------------
Mix up some epoxy, tape off the surfaces where you don't want the
epoxy,
drive screw into wood to force open the crack, then pour in epoxy and
back
out screw to allow crack to close.
No clamps are req'd.
If unthickened epoxy can't be poured into crack without draining out
before
it can be filled, then thicken with micro-balloons and fill using a
tongue
depresser, putty knife, whatever.
BTDT many times.
Lew
On 12/27/2013 8:44 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
> On 12/27/2013 8:53 AM, Leon wrote:
>> On 12/27/2013 5:45 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
>>> I assembled a face frame with pocket screws and decided to take the easy
>>> way out and pocket-screw the frame onto the plywood cabinet. This was
>>> successful, except that the oak 1x2 split at one end. I took the
>>> offending screw out and the wood went back together well enough that
>>> it's hard to see, but I'd like to repair it so it won't break off later.
>>>
>>> I was wondering if I could clamp the area, drill a hole up into the
>>> split and inject some sort of glue. I see someone has tried this, but
>>> without drilling:
>>>
>>> http://lumberjocks.com/woodshaver/blog/31497
>>>
>>> Any ideas? If this is possible, advice on the type of glue and syringe
>>> would be helpful.
>>>
>>> By the way, in fits and starts, I've made some progress on the CD
>>> Shelves project:
>>>
>>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/11575872043/in/photostream/
>>
>>
>> I have had good luck with simply prying the split open a small bit and
>> pouring glue straight into the crack. Obviously you will need for the
>> crack to be facing up so that gravity will let it go where it will.
>
> That's a minor inconvenience, as the crack is at the very bottom of a
> unit that is 77" tall. I guess I'll need glue and a stepladder.
Ohhhhh. '~)
>>
>> You can also use masking tape to keep glue off of any areas that you
>> don't want it to penetrate, like the end grain.
>
> The end grain is where the split is, but in use it will be unseen
> (sitting on the floor). Can I assume the only problem with getting it on
> the end grain is cosmetic?
Yes, Strictly cosmetic.
>
> Then clamp and wipe off
>> the squeeze out. I have never had a piece break off using this method.
>
>
> ---
> This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus
> protection is active.
> http://www.avast.com
>
On Fri, 27 Dec 2013 09:39:32 -0500, Greg Guarino <[email protected]>
wrote:
>On 12/27/2013 8:00 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
>> Mike Marlow wrote:
>>> Greg Guarino wrote:
>>>> I assembled a face frame with pocket screws and decided to take the
>>>> easy way out and pocket-screw the frame onto the plywood cabinet.
>>>> This was successful, except that the oak 1x2 split at one end. I took
>>>> the offending screw out and the wood went back together well enough
>>>> that it's hard to see, but I'd like to repair it so it won't break
>>>> off later.
>>>> I was wondering if I could clamp the area, drill a hole up into the
>>>> split and inject some sort of glue. I see someone has tried this, but
>>>> without drilling:
>>>>
>>>
>>> I used to have a syringe a long time ago, but mine was too fine to be
>>> really useful for glue. You'd have to dilute the glue too much to
>>> get it through the thing so I junked it. I have spread cracks and
>>> used a toothpick to get glue inside the crack, working it across the
>>> face of the crack in order for it to get down inside. If the crack
>>> can be opened enough, then of course, you can just apply the glue
>>> inside it with the toothpick.
>>
>> Also Greg - I don't know that I'd drill any holes. You can always use the
>> screw to expand the crack again, and then apply some glue and remove the
>> screw, and clamp. I don't see where the hole is going to benefit you at
>> all. In steel, you drill a hole to stop the expansion of a crack, but I
>> don't see that working for you in wood - or necessary.
>>
>> BTW - did you use the low profile pocket screws for your piece, or the high
>> profile screws? Low for hardwoods, high for softwoods.
>>
>That was what caused the crack, even though I do actually know which
>screw is supposed to be used for which kind of wood. Sometimes you
>concentrate on getting 6 things right but grab from the wrong bin for
>the seventh. :)
How about a zip lock bag sqeeze the glue in the bag snip a corner,
works for a piping bag for cooking stuff. Real cheap to experiment
too.
Mark
On 12/27/2013 9:44 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
> On 12/27/2013 8:53 AM, Leon wrote:
>> On 12/27/2013 5:45 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
>>> I assembled a face frame with pocket screws and decided to take the easy
>>> way out and pocket-screw the frame onto the plywood cabinet. This was
>>> successful, except that the oak 1x2 split at one end. I took the
>>> offending screw out and the wood went back together well enough that
>>> it's hard to see, but I'd like to repair it so it won't break off later.
>>>
>>> I was wondering if I could clamp the area, drill a hole up into the
>>> split and inject some sort of glue. I see someone has tried this, but
>>> without drilling:
>>>
>>> http://lumberjocks.com/woodshaver/blog/31497
>>>
>>> Any ideas? If this is possible, advice on the type of glue and syringe
>>> would be helpful.
>>>
>>> By the way, in fits and starts, I've made some progress on the CD
>>> Shelves project:
>>>
>>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/11575872043/in/photostream/
>>
>>
>> I have had good luck with simply prying the split open a small bit and
>> pouring glue straight into the crack. Obviously you will need for the
>> crack to be facing up so that gravity will let it go where it will.
>
> That's a minor inconvenience, as the crack is at the very bottom of a
> unit that is 77" tall. I guess I'll need glue and a stepladder.
Try thinning the glue a little and using a vacum to pull it into the
crack.. I would just get a few glue syringes from rockler, woodcraft or
Lee valley and inject it into the hole then screw it together while
using clamps to keep the crack closed.
>>
>> You can also use masking tape to keep glue off of any areas that you
>> don't want it to penetrate, like the end grain.
>
> The end grain is where the split is, but in use it will be unseen
> (sitting on the floor). Can I assume the only problem with getting it on
> the end grain is cosmetic?
>
> Then clamp and wipe off
>> the squeeze out. I have never had a piece break off using this method.
>
>
> ---
> This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus
> protection is active.
> http://www.avast.com
>
--
Jeff
Greg Guarino wrote:
> I assembled a face frame with pocket screws and decided to take the
> easy way out and pocket-screw the frame onto the plywood cabinet.
> This was successful, except that the oak 1x2 split at one end. I took
> the offending screw out and the wood went back together well enough
> that it's hard to see, but I'd like to repair it so it won't break
> off later.
> I was wondering if I could clamp the area, drill a hole up into the
> split and inject some sort of glue. I see someone has tried this, but
> without drilling:
>
I used to have a syringe a long time ago, but mine was too fine to be really
useful for glue. You'd have to dilute the glue too much to get it through
the thing so I junked it. I have spread cracks and used a toothpick to get
glue inside the crack, working it across the face of the crack in order for
it to get down inside. If the crack can be opened enough, then of course,
you can just apply the glue inside it with the toothpick.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Mike Marlow wrote:
> Greg Guarino wrote:
>> I assembled a face frame with pocket screws and decided to take the
>> easy way out and pocket-screw the frame onto the plywood cabinet.
>> This was successful, except that the oak 1x2 split at one end. I took
>> the offending screw out and the wood went back together well enough
>> that it's hard to see, but I'd like to repair it so it won't break
>> off later.
>> I was wondering if I could clamp the area, drill a hole up into the
>> split and inject some sort of glue. I see someone has tried this, but
>> without drilling:
>>
>
> I used to have a syringe a long time ago, but mine was too fine to be
> really useful for glue. You'd have to dilute the glue too much to
> get it through the thing so I junked it. I have spread cracks and
> used a toothpick to get glue inside the crack, working it across the
> face of the crack in order for it to get down inside. If the crack
> can be opened enough, then of course, you can just apply the glue
> inside it with the toothpick.
Also Greg - I don't know that I'd drill any holes. You can always use the
screw to expand the crack again, and then apply some glue and remove the
screw, and clamp. I don't see where the hole is going to benefit you at
all. In steel, you drill a hole to stop the expansion of a crack, but I
don't see that working for you in wood - or necessary.
BTW - did you use the low profile pocket screws for your piece, or the high
profile screws? Low for hardwoods, high for softwoods.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
On 12/27/2013 8:00 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
> Mike Marlow wrote:
>> Greg Guarino wrote:
>>> I assembled a face frame with pocket screws and decided to take the
>>> easy way out and pocket-screw the frame onto the plywood cabinet.
>>> This was successful, except that the oak 1x2 split at one end. I took
>>> the offending screw out and the wood went back together well enough
>>> that it's hard to see, but I'd like to repair it so it won't break
>>> off later.
>>> I was wondering if I could clamp the area, drill a hole up into the
>>> split and inject some sort of glue. I see someone has tried this, but
>>> without drilling:
>>>
>>
>> I used to have a syringe a long time ago, but mine was too fine to be
>> really useful for glue. You'd have to dilute the glue too much to
>> get it through the thing so I junked it. I have spread cracks and
>> used a toothpick to get glue inside the crack, working it across the
>> face of the crack in order for it to get down inside. If the crack
>> can be opened enough, then of course, you can just apply the glue
>> inside it with the toothpick.
>
> Also Greg - I don't know that I'd drill any holes. You can always use the
> screw to expand the crack again, and then apply some glue and remove the
> screw, and clamp. I don't see where the hole is going to benefit you at
> all. In steel, you drill a hole to stop the expansion of a crack, but I
> don't see that working for you in wood - or necessary.
>
> BTW - did you use the low profile pocket screws for your piece, or the high
> profile screws? Low for hardwoods, high for softwoods.
>
That was what caused the crack, even though I do actually know which
screw is supposed to be used for which kind of wood. Sometimes you
concentrate on getting 6 things right but grab from the wrong bin for
the seventh. :)
---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com
On 12/27/2013 8:53 AM, Leon wrote:
> On 12/27/2013 5:45 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
>> I assembled a face frame with pocket screws and decided to take the easy
>> way out and pocket-screw the frame onto the plywood cabinet. This was
>> successful, except that the oak 1x2 split at one end. I took the
>> offending screw out and the wood went back together well enough that
>> it's hard to see, but I'd like to repair it so it won't break off later.
>>
>> I was wondering if I could clamp the area, drill a hole up into the
>> split and inject some sort of glue. I see someone has tried this, but
>> without drilling:
>>
>> http://lumberjocks.com/woodshaver/blog/31497
>>
>> Any ideas? If this is possible, advice on the type of glue and syringe
>> would be helpful.
>>
>> By the way, in fits and starts, I've made some progress on the CD
>> Shelves project:
>>
>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/11575872043/in/photostream/
>
>
> I have had good luck with simply prying the split open a small bit and
> pouring glue straight into the crack. Obviously you will need for the
> crack to be facing up so that gravity will let it go where it will.
That's a minor inconvenience, as the crack is at the very bottom of a
unit that is 77" tall. I guess I'll need glue and a stepladder.
>
> You can also use masking tape to keep glue off of any areas that you
> don't want it to penetrate, like the end grain.
The end grain is where the split is, but in use it will be unseen
(sitting on the floor). Can I assume the only problem with getting it on
the end grain is cosmetic?
Then clamp and wipe off
> the squeeze out. I have never had a piece break off using this method.
---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com
Greg Guarino wrote:
>
> That was what caused the crack, even though I do actually know which
> screw is supposed to be used for which kind of wood. Sometimes you
> concentrate on getting 6 things right but grab from the wrong bin for
> the seventh. :)
>
BTDT! There's that force of habit thing going on too...
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
"Greg Guarino" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]
> I assembled a face frame with pocket screws and decided
> to take the easy way out and pocket-screw the frame onto
> the plywood cabinet. This was successful, except that the
> oak 1x2 split at one end. I took the offending screw out
> and the wood went back together well enough that it's
> hard to see, but I'd like to repair it so it won't break
> off later.
> I was wondering if I could clamp the area, drill a hole
> up into the split and inject some sort of glue. I see
> someone has tried this, but without drilling:
>
> Any ideas? If this is possible, advice on the type of
> glue and syringe would be helpful.
No syringe needed.
1. Put the screw back so the split opens (or open it otherwise)
2. Put yellow glue in the split
3. Remove screw (or whatever manner you opened the split) so it goes back
together
4. Clamp it moderately
5. Wipe off any glue squeeze out
If you are going to use a screw in the hole again, make sure the hole is at
least as big as the screw shank.
--
dadiOH
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