I know I am probably going to get bashed for asking this, but I live in
Oregon and have a lot of moisture problems in my shop. I wax my table
saw, but still have trouble with surface rust. I looked at the empire
product and will probably try that. Then I got to thinking, why exactly
can I not paint the surface of my table saw, with say rust-oleum. If I
sand with 600 grit between coats it would be very smooth, and I could
wax on top of that, to make sure the wood slides easily. I would never
have to worry about rust again. No one does this, so I am guessing
there must be a reason why. I just can't think of what it is.
Thanks in advance.
On 30 Jan 2005 19:08:56 -0800, the inscrutable
[email protected] spake:
>
>Matthew wrote:
>> This may be ABSOLUTELY ridiculous, but consider having it chromed. I
>bet it
>> would not be over $100 -- and the whoa! factor would be really high.
>>
>> Matthew
>>
>Hell yeah! I'm gonna be moving in a few months. Seeing as how I'll
>have to take the table off the big iron anyway...
Guys, be SURE to post links to pics of those if and when you do it.
I'd love to see 'em.
=========================================================
The Titanic. The Hindenburg. + http://www.diversify.com
The Clintons. + Website & Graphic Design
=========================================================
On Sun, 30 Jan 2005 16:44:22 -0800, none today <[email protected]> wrote:
>I know I am probably going to get bashed for asking this, but I live in
>Oregon and have a lot of moisture problems in my shop. I wax my table
>saw, but still have trouble with surface rust. I looked at the empire
>product and will probably try that. Then I got to thinking, why exactly
>can I not paint the surface of my table saw, with say rust-oleum. If I
Personally I wouldn't paint it myself but here's something you might
try.
I have a table saw in my garage that I don't use often enough to keep
the top shiny. I had a small empty cardboard box sitting on the table
and when I removed it I noticed that the top under the cardboard was
shiny but the rest of the top was kinda getting that darkened look to
it. Not yet rust but just a slight discoloration. I cleaned the top
up sprayed it down and cut a piece of cardboard the full size of the
top. I used a folded up cabinet box so it's actually two layers. I
leave the cardboard there until I use the saw. It may be that the
cardboard is absorbing the moisture or that the cardboard acts like a
vapor barrier or it might just be my imagination but the top is
always shiny even after several months.
Mike O.
On Mon, 31 Jan 2005 07:24:41 -0500, the inscrutable GregP
<[email protected]> spake:
>On Sun, 30 Jan 2005 21:03:30 -0600, "Matthew"
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>This may be ABSOLUTELY ridiculous, but consider having it chromed. I bet it
>>would not be over $100 -- and the whoa! factor would be really high.
>
> Couldn't the glare be a problem ?
It probably wouldn't be much worse than a clean, waxed arn surface.
=========================================================
The Titanic. The Hindenburg. + http://www.diversify.com
The Clintons. + Website & Graphic Design
=========================================================
Why not laminate with Formica or something slick. You can glue it on and
remove it with heat when you want.
max
> I know I am probably going to get bashed for asking this, but I live in
> Oregon and have a lot of moisture problems in my shop. I wax my table
> saw, but still have trouble with surface rust. I looked at the empire
> product and will probably try that. Then I got to thinking, why exactly
> can I not paint the surface of my table saw, with say rust-oleum. If I
> sand with 600 grit between coats it would be very smooth, and I could
> wax on top of that, to make sure the wood slides easily. I would never
> have to worry about rust again. No one does this, so I am guessing
> there must be a reason why. I just can't think of what it is.
>
> Thanks in advance.
I have overhead lights in my shop and when I work on shiny stuff on my bench
as I move around you get the full reflection of the lights off of the shiny
surface. You don¹t' want to be running your hand next to the blade and
suddenly get "snow blinded" from a chromed saw top.
max
> On 30 Jan 2005 19:08:56 -0800, the inscrutable
> [email protected] spake:
>
>>
>> Matthew wrote:
>>> This may be ABSOLUTELY ridiculous, but consider having it chromed. I
>> bet it
>>> would not be over $100 -- and the whoa! factor would be really high.
>>>
>>> Matthew
>>>
>> Hell yeah! I'm gonna be moving in a few months. Seeing as how I'll
>> have to take the table off the big iron anyway...
>
> Guys, be SURE to post links to pics of those if and when you do it.
> I'd love to see 'em.
>
>
> =========================================================
> The Titanic. The Hindenburg. + http://www.diversify.com
> The Clintons. + Website & Graphic Design
> =========================================================
>
Yea, or the "black chrome"......hmmmmm....
"AAvK" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:nthLd.336$Tt.209@fed1read05...
>
>> This may be ABSOLUTELY ridiculous, but consider having it chromed. I bet
>> it
>> would not be over $100 -- and the whoa! factor would be really high.
>> Matthew
>>
>
> Why not nickel plating?
>
> --
> Alex
> cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
> http://www.e-sword.net/
>
Unless you have it powder coated the paint will probably rub off on to the
wood you are cutting. I had an old insert that left red paint on my wood
until all the paint rubbed off.
Use the Empire product to restore the finish and then apply 2 or 3 initial
coats of TopCote. I live in Houston and the humidity is regularly 80% and
above and I have no rust problems using TopCote and I apply it about every
3 or 4 months. If you have condensing moisture on your tools nothing will
probably help short of spraying down with oil.
"none today" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:1107132068.1680098d4abacc593df3fa0dec06a728@teranews...
>I know I am probably going to get bashed for asking this, but I live in
>Oregon and have a lot of moisture problems in my shop. I wax my table saw,
>but still have trouble with surface rust. I looked at the empire product
>and will probably try that. Then I got to thinking, why exactly can I not
>paint the surface of my table saw, with say rust-oleum. If I sand with 600
>grit between coats it would be very smooth, and I could wax on top of that,
>to make sure the wood slides easily. I would never have to worry about
>rust again. No one does this, so I am guessing there must be a reason why.
>I just can't think of what it is.
>
> Thanks in advance.
none today wrote:
> I know I am probably going to get bashed for asking this, but I live in
> Oregon and have a lot of moisture problems in my shop. I wax my table
> saw, but still have trouble with surface rust. I looked at the empire
> product and will probably try that. Then I got to thinking, why exactly
> can I not paint the surface of my table saw, with say rust-oleum. If I
> sand with 600 grit between coats it would be very smooth, and I could
> wax on top of that, to make sure the wood slides easily. I would never
> have to worry about rust again. No one does this, so I am guessing
> there must be a reason why. I just can't think of what it is.
>
> Thanks in advance.
The edge of the cast iron top on my old (30 yrs) Rockwell/Beaver saw is
painted black. A King saw that I saw at a dealer recently had the edge
of the cast iron top painted gray. (however it was already chipping off
with some rust underneath -needless to say I didn't buy one). As long
as you got it really clean and devoid of grease and wax and rust, it
should probably work.
Are there any professional paint shops in your area that could powder
coat it?
Rob
On Sun, 30 Jan 2005 23:03:01 -0600, Mike <[email protected]> wrote:
>On Sun, 30 Jan 2005 16:44:22 -0800, none today <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>I know I am probably going to get bashed for asking this, but I live in
>>Oregon and have a lot of moisture problems in my shop. I wax my table
>>saw, but still have trouble with surface rust. I looked at the empire
>>product and will probably try that. Then I got to thinking, why exactly
>>can I not paint the surface of my table saw, with say rust-oleum. If I
>
>Personally I wouldn't paint it myself but here's something you might
>try.
>I have a table saw in my garage that I don't use often enough to keep
>the top shiny. I had a small empty cardboard box sitting on the table
>and when I removed it I noticed that the top under the cardboard was
>shiny but the rest of the top was kinda getting that darkened look to
>it. Not yet rust but just a slight discoloration. I cleaned the top
>up sprayed it down and cut a piece of cardboard the full size of the
>top. I used a folded up cabinet box so it's actually two layers. I
>leave the cardboard there until I use the saw. It may be that the
>cardboard is absorbing the moisture or that the cardboard acts like a
>vapor barrier or it might just be my imagination but the top is
>always shiny even after several months.
My experience with this type of idea is that in a high-humidity area
you will develop unbelievable rust under the cardboard in just a
couple of days.
Tim Douglass
http://www.DouglassClan.com
This is not so crazy. I lived in Fla for a while, rust is an issue!
I had a friend that owned a body shop, treated the top to a few coats of
auto primer, sanded, and put a few coats of silver, (auto paint, lacquer
based I believe). 10 years later, still smooth, not so shiny. I wax it a few
times a year.
"AAvK" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:nthLd.336$Tt.209@fed1read05...
>
> > This may be ABSOLUTELY ridiculous, but consider having it chromed. I
bet it
> > would not be over $100 -- and the whoa! factor would be really high.
> > Matthew
> >
>
> Why not nickel plating?
>
> --
> Alex
> cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
> http://www.e-sword.net/
>
>
none today wrote:
> I know I am probably going to get bashed for asking this, but I live
> in Oregon and have a lot of moisture problems in my shop. I wax my
> table saw, but still have trouble with surface rust. I looked at the
> empire product and will probably try that. Then I got to thinking,
> why exactly can I not paint the surface of my table saw, with say
> rust-oleum. If I sand with 600 grit between coats it would be very
> smooth, and I could wax on top of that, to make sure the wood slides
> easily. I would never have to worry about rust again. No one does
> this, so I am guessing there must be a reason why. I just can't think
> of what it is.
>
> Thanks in advance.
Paint scratches easy. Trick to having things slide is the smoothness
factor. Scratched paint will increase friction. With constant
polishing and waxing, paint should be okay. Powder coat is actually a
type of plastic that is cooked onto whatever you are coating. High
friction content. Plus there are no guarantees that you will end up
with a level surface after the process. Plus, once you chip it in one
spot, it will keep coming up!
With chrome or nickel plating, you will want to specify that you don't
want your surface polished. No guarantees that the guy holding your
table to the buffer wheel will keep it a flat surface, so specify no
polish. Just plate. Low upkeep with chrome. Nickel will require some
polishing, occasionally.
On Sun, 30 Jan 2005 21:03:30 -0600, "Matthew"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>This may be ABSOLUTELY ridiculous, but consider having it chromed. I bet it
>would not be over $100 -- and the whoa! factor would be really high.
Couldn't the glare be a problem ?
This may be ABSOLUTELY ridiculous, but consider having it chromed. I bet it
would not be over $100 -- and the whoa! factor would be really high.
Matthew
"none today" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:1107132068.1680098d4abacc593df3fa0dec06a728@teranews...
>I know I am probably going to get bashed for asking this, but I live in
>Oregon and have a lot of moisture problems in my shop. I wax my table saw,
>but still have trouble with surface rust. I looked at the empire product
>and will probably try that. Then I got to thinking, why exactly can I not
>paint the surface of my table saw, with say rust-oleum. If I sand with 600
>grit between coats it would be very smooth, and I could wax on top of that,
>to make sure the wood slides easily. I would never have to worry about
>rust again. No one does this, so I am guessing there must be a reason why.
>I just can't think of what it is.
>
> Thanks in advance.
J T wrote:
> I suggested maybe parkerizing. Then did a quick google. Looks
> quite doable, at quite reasonable prices. Maybe even as cheap as paint.
> If you try it, let us know the results.
> http://www.shootersolutions.com/homepark.html
>
>
>
> JOAT
> The first method of estimating the intelligence of a ruler is to look at
> the men he has around him.
> - Niccolo Machiavelli
>
Well he could cold blue it. That's even easier. Na. stick
with the paint.
I suggested maybe parkerizing. Then did a quick google. Looks
quite doable, at quite reasonable prices. Maybe even as cheap as paint.
If you try it, let us know the results.
http://www.shootersolutions.com/homepark.html
JOAT
The first method of estimating the intelligence of a ruler is to look at
the men he has around him.
- Niccolo Machiavelli
Sun, Jan 30, 2005, 9:03pm (EST-1) [email protected] (Matthew)
tosses out:
This may be ABSOLUTELY ridiculous, but consider having it chromed. I bet
it would not be over $100 -- and the whoa! factor would be really high.
Not that many chrome shops around anymore. Anyway, chrome
scratches pretty easily. And, I bet it'd cost more than $100.
Might want to look into nickle plating. That can be done at home,
very simple, tho I don't know about something as large as that. Maybe
parkerized? Ah, Hell, just paint the damn thing, it'd be cheaper, you
can do it yourself, and if it gets scratched, you can repair it. And,
you can use yellow paint.
JOAT
The first method of estimating the intelligence of a ruler is to look at
the men he has around him.
- Niccolo Machiavelli
On Mon, 31 Jan 2005 13:17:44 GMT, "OldMan" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Maybe i'm paranoid, but I believe there have been studies showing that
>nickel plating is a carcinogen.
So are barbecued hamburgers. Take reasonable precautions.
Tim Douglass
http://www.DouglassClan.com
> "OldMan" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>>Maybe i'm paranoid, but I believe there have been studies showing that
>>nickel plating is a carcinogen.
I'm getting rid of all the nickels in my pocket. Copper is supposed to be
bad also, so I'm getting rid of them also. Dollar bills are filthy so I
tossed all of them.
Sure with I could afford a cup of coffee, but got rid of all the
contaminated stuff I had.
Maybe i'm paranoid, but I believe there have been studies showing that
nickel plating is a carcinogen.
"J T" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Sun, Jan 30, 2005, 9:03pm (EST-1) [email protected] (Matthew)
> tosses out:
> This may be ABSOLUTELY ridiculous, but consider having it chromed. I bet
> it would not be over $100 -- and the whoa! factor would be really high.
>
> Not that many chrome shops around anymore. Anyway, chrome
> scratches pretty easily. And, I bet it'd cost more than $100.
>
> Might want to look into nickle plating. That can be done at home,
> very simple, tho I don't know about something as large as that. Maybe
> parkerized? Ah, Hell, just paint the damn thing, it'd be cheaper, you
> can do it yourself, and if it gets scratched, you can repair it. And,
> you can use yellow paint.
>
>
>
> JOAT
> The first method of estimating the intelligence of a ruler is to look at
> the men he has around him.
> - Niccolo Machiavelli
>
Mon, Jan 31, 2005, 1:17pm (EST+5) [email protected] (OldMan) says:
Maybe i'm paranoid, but I believe there have been studies showing that
nickel plating is a carcinogen.
I read one that said charcoal broiled steak was a carcinogen. But,
the doctor that did the study said he was still gonna eat it - very
minor risk.
JOAT
The first method of estimating the intelligence of a ruler is to look at
the men he has around him.
- Niccolo Machiavelli
On Sun, 30 Jan 2005 22:32:54 -0500, [email protected] (J T)
wrote:
> I suggested maybe parkerizing. Then did a quick google. Looks
>quite doable, at quite reasonable prices. Maybe even as cheap as paint.
>If you try it, let us know the results.
>http://www.shootersolutions.com/homepark.html
Doesn't parkerizing basically convert the surface of the metal into a
not-so-smooth sponge-like surface so that it will absorb oil well?
That has always been my understanding of its use as a firearms finish,
that it does a great job of preventing corrosion because it holds oil
so well, not because of anything in the finish itself. Parkerized guns
are also not as smooth and slick feeling as blued ones.
Tim Douglass
http://www.DouglassClan.com
Edwin Pawlowski wrote:
>> "OldMan" <[email protected]>
>>wrote:
>>
>>
>>>Maybe i'm paranoid, but I believe there have been studies showing that
>>>nickel plating is a carcinogen.
>
>
> I'm getting rid of all the nickels in my pocket. Copper is supposed to be
> bad also, so I'm getting rid of them also. Dollar bills are filthy so I
> tossed all of them.
>
> Sure with I could afford a cup of coffee, but got rid of all the
> contaminated stuff I had.
>
>
Coffee is a carcinogen too. You're better off without it.
Rob
PS. Next time just mail the cash to me. I don't believe in evidence
based medicine.
Only in California. It's safe anywhere else.
"OldMan" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:YdqLd.84616$Ob.48966@edtnps84...
> Maybe i'm paranoid, but I believe there have been studies showing that
> nickel plating is a carcinogen.
>
none today wrote:
> I know I am probably going to get bashed for asking this, but I live in
> Oregon and have a lot of moisture problems in my shop. I wax my table
> saw, but still have trouble with surface rust. I looked at the empire
> product and will probably try that. Then I got to thinking, why exactly
> can I not paint the surface of my table saw, with say rust-oleum. If I
> sand with 600 grit between coats it would be very smooth, and I could
> wax on top of that, to make sure the wood slides easily. I would never
> have to worry about rust again. No one does this, so I am guessing
> there must be a reason why. I just can't think of what it is.
>
> Thanks in advance.
If you paint it be sure to use the red or gray primer.