I'm having a bad time with burn marks on some mahogany I'm ripping.
The blade's clean, but possibly dull. I have a new blade ready to use,
but... well, what else can I do to avoid burning?
Also, I'm installing some oak baseboard in a bedroom. I'm thinking of
ripping a 1" high dado and laying in a 1" wide strip of aromatic
cedar, which might make the room smell nicer. I know, cedar's best
used in closets and armoires, but has anyone tried doing this in a
bedroom?
"SonomaProducts.com" wrote:
> I fell in love with African Mohag after seeing Darrel Peart's Greene
> &
> Greene repros and derivations. I took a class from him and worked
> with
> some of it then and it is really nice.
--------------------------------------------
I'm certain you can build some very nice furniture using African
Mahogany.
-------------------------------------------
> When I do build my dream boat I will likely consider African Mohag
> depending on what's available AND after some research to be sure
> African has the same properties as it relates to water resistance.
-------------------------------------
Take about a glutton for punishment.<G>
Takes a special person to even own and maintain a "woodie"; however,
building one from scratch??????????????????????
Wow!!!
Lew
On 4/7/2010 7:44 PM, BrianSiano wrote:
> I'm having a bad time with burn marks on some mahogany I'm ripping.
> The blade's clean, but possibly dull. I have a new blade ready to use,
> but... well, what else can I do to avoid burning?
>
> Also, I'm installing some oak baseboard in a bedroom. I'm thinking of
> ripping a 1" high dado and laying in a 1" wide strip of aromatic
> cedar, which might make the room smell nicer. I know, cedar's best
> used in closets and armoires, but has anyone tried doing this in a
> bedroom?
FWIW, I've had the same problem lately with African Mahogany.
I finally started rough cutting, then making smaller cuts to size.
--
Richard Lamb
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~cavelamb/
"BrianSiano" wrote:
> I'm having a bad time with burn marks on some mahogany I'm ripping.
> The blade's clean, but possibly dull. I have a new blade ready to
> use,
> but... well, what else can I do to avoid burning?
----------------------------------
High quality Honduras mahogany deserves a high quality blade which you
WON'T find in the bargain bin of your local DIY.
A good 24T ripping blade is at least $50-$60 these days.
I had a Freud that worked well for me.
Make sure that blade is parallel to the miter slots in the saw table.
How large is the motor driving the blade(Should be at least 1-1/2HP)
and what is the estimated RPM of the blade?
Should be in the order of 3,600 RPM maximum, 3,300-3,400 preferred.
Have fun.
Lew
"cavelamb" wrote:
> FWIW, I've had the same problem lately with African Mahogany.
>
> I finally started rough cutting, then making smaller cuts to size.
----------------------
African Mahogany is Mahogany in name only.
If it's not Honduras Mahogany, it simply isn't Mahogany.
Like the Philippine Mahogany plywood they try to pass off as something
other than the junk it is.
Lew
My previous post:
> African Mahogany is Mahogany in name only.
-----------------------------------
"SonomaProducts.com" wrote:
> Actually in botanical terms there is a true african mahogany
> depending
> on your specific definition. There are also a few other types sold
> as
> african mahogany that are not of the same family.
>
> Family meliaceae, genus swietinia is the Cuban and Honduran type and
> family meliaceae, genus khaya is the african type. So there are true
> african mahogany types. Some types that look the same like sapele
> are
> also called\sold as african mahogany but are not botanically in the
> same family.
-------------------------------------
When push comes to shove and it's time to replank that Chris of your
dreams, don't think you will use African Mahogany.
Lew
I have started some of the research and have some plans pulled from
the Chris Craft Museum of the model I want to build. So I have basic
dimensions and critical cross sections. I do not have any sort of
knowledge of the structural design yet but I figure I can find more
detailed plans of similar boats and develop details for my project.
This is a long-term plan. My brother and I will retire together to
some acreage and one requirement is a boat building dedicated to this
project, in addition to my normal shop space. I love to build
multiples of things because I enjoy the fixtures as much or maybe even
more than the finished article, so a secondary plan is to also sell
completed hulls once I have all the forms and techniques down pat.
Gotta dream.
On Apr 9, 3:45=A0pm, "Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "SonomaProducts.com" wrote:
> > I fell in love with African Mohag after seeing Darrel Peart's Greene
> > &
> > Greene repros and derivations. I took a class from him and worked
> > with
> > some of it then and it is really nice.
>
> --------------------------------------------
> I'm certain you can build some very nice furniture using African
> Mahogany.
>
> -------------------------------------------> When I do build my dream boa=
t I will likely consider African Mohag
> > depending on what's available AND after some research to be sure
> > African has the same properties as it relates to water resistance.
>
> -------------------------------------
> Take about a glutton for punishment.<G>
>
> Takes a special person to even own and maintain a "woodie"; however,
> building one from scratch??????????????????????
>
> Wow!!!
>
> Lew
SonomaProducts.com wrote:
>>> Lew
>>
>> Nope. There is no substitute for Honduras Mohagany.
>>
>
> Well... that is a true statement after saying Honduran Mohag is a
> substitute for Cuban.
:)
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
On 4/7/2010 11:01 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
> "cavelamb" wrote:
>> FWIW, I've had the same problem lately with African Mahogany.
>>
>> I finally started rough cutting, then making smaller cuts to size.
> ----------------------
>
> African Mahogany is Mahogany in name only.
>
> If it's not Honduras Mahogany, it simply isn't Mahogany.
>
> Like the Philippine Mahogany plywood they try to pass off as something
> other than the junk it is.
>
> Lew
>
>
Maybe so.
But it matched color well, has "interesting" grain patterns,
and came out looking great.
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~capri26/c26-mods.htm#s-shelf
--
Richard Lamb
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~cavelamb/
On 4/8/2010 10:26 AM, dadiOH wrote:
> amount you are proposing would do much. If you want the bedroom to smell
> good, burn incense or buy the wife/girl friend some expensive perfume. The
> latter could have additional benefits :)
As the comedienne said, the best husbands are those who have pierced
ears ... they are used to pain, and know how to buy jewelry.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)
> -------------------------------------
> When push comes to shove and it's time to replank that Chris of your
> dreams, don't think you will use African Mahogany.
>
> Lew
I fell in love with African Mohag after seeing Darrel Peart's Greene &
Greene repros and derivations. I took a class from him and worked with
some of it then and it is really nice.
When I do build my dream boat I will likely consider African Mohag
depending on what's available AND after some research to be sure
African has the same properties as it relates to water resistance. I
don't currently have any knowledge if it is considered as good for
marine applications as the classic but it is beautiful stuff.
On Wed, 7 Apr 2010 17:44:29 -0700 (PDT), BrianSiano
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I'm having a bad time with burn marks on some mahogany I'm ripping.
>The blade's clean, but possibly dull. I have a new blade ready to use,
>but... well, what else can I do to avoid burning?
Standard stuff. Put on the new blade. Make sure that it's properly
parallel to the miter slot and that the arbor is clean of junk in case
the blade is wobbling slightly. Add the nitre. Make sure it's exactly
perpendicular to the blade.
Do a test cut with some waste mahogany (if you have some), if not then
some other type of wood, pine will be fine. See if it cuts without
burning. If it does burn, try different feed rates. If that solves the
problem, then you're going to have to try some different feed rates
with the mahogany since it has a different density.
Also, you haven't indicated what type of saw you have or its
horsepower. There's the possibility that your saw might be
underpowered for cutting. You also didn't indicate if this burn
problem is new or has always happened. All these things need to be
considered.
On Apr 7, 8:44=A0pm, BrianSiano <[email protected]> wrote:
> I'm having a bad time with burn marks on some mahogany I'm ripping.
> The blade's clean, but possibly dull. I have a new blade ready to use,
> but... well, what else can I do to avoid burning?
>
> Also, I'm installing some oak baseboard in a bedroom. I'm thinking of
> ripping a 1" high dado and laying in a 1" wide strip of aromatic
> cedar, which might make the room smell nicer. I know, cedar's best
> used in closets and armoires, but has anyone tried doing this in a
> bedroom?
I often have burn marks so I rip slightly oversized and then make one
light pass over jointer.
>
> African Mahogany is Mahogany in name only.
>
Actually in botanical terms there is a true african mahogany depending
on your specific definition. There are also a few other types sold as
african mahogany that are not of the same family.
Family meliaceae, genus swietinia is the Cuban and Honduran type and
family meliaceae, genus khaya is the african type. So there are true
african mahogany types. Some types that look the same like sapele are
also called\sold as african mahogany but are not botanically in the
same family.
BrianSiano wrote:
> I'm having a bad time with burn marks on some mahogany I'm ripping.
> The blade's clean, but possibly dull. I have a new blade ready to use,
> but... well, what else can I do to avoid burning?
1. Assure fence is parallel to blade.
2. Assure that the edges of the wood riding on the table and against the
fence are perpendicular to each other.
3. Assure the stock isn't bowed.
4. Assure that the kerf isn't closing as you cut.
5. Sharp blade, steady feed (don't pause)
_____________
> Also, I'm installing some oak baseboard in a bedroom. I'm thinking of
> ripping a 1" high dado and laying in a 1" wide strip of aromatic
> cedar, which might make the room smell nicer. I know, cedar's best
> used in closets and armoires, but has anyone tried doing this in a
> bedroom?
No, but I wouldn't. Eastern red cedar - aromatic cedar - loses its odor
after a while. The smell can be renewed by sanding to a fresh surface or
applying cedar oil. Even if it didn't lose the odor I don't think the
amount you are proposing would do much. If you want the bedroom to smell
good, burn incense or buy the wife/girl friend some expensive perfume. The
latter could have additional benefits :)
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
"BrianSiano" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:3249a6a5-cd75-47e5-854a-2222c597a65e@f13g2000vbl.googlegroups.com...
> I'm having a bad time with burn marks on some mahogany I'm ripping.
> The blade's clean, but possibly dull. I have a new blade ready to use,
> but... well, what else can I do to avoid burning?
>
> Also, I'm installing some oak baseboard in a bedroom. I'm thinking of
> ripping a 1" high dado and laying in a 1" wide strip of aromatic
> cedar, which might make the room smell nicer. I know, cedar's best
> used in closets and armoires, but has anyone tried doing this in a
> bedroom?
In addition to the blade being parallel to the miter slot the fence must
be parallel to the blade too.
Art
On 04/07/2010 09:55 PM, Artemus wrote:
> "BrianSiano"<[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:3249a6a5-cd75-47e5-854a-2222c597a65e@f13g2000vbl.googlegroups.com...
>> I'm having a bad time with burn marks on some mahogany I'm ripping.
>> The blade's clean, but possibly dull. I have a new blade ready to use,
>> but... well, what else can I do to avoid burning?
>>
>> Also, I'm installing some oak baseboard in a bedroom. I'm thinking of
>> ripping a 1" high dado and laying in a 1" wide strip of aromatic
>> cedar, which might make the room smell nicer. I know, cedar's best
>> used in closets and armoires, but has anyone tried doing this in a
>> bedroom?
>
> In addition to the blade being parallel to the miter slot the fence must
> be parallel to the blade too.
> Art
While having the blade parallel to the miter slots is obviously a good idea, it's actually
irrelevant in the context of ripping. So yes, after you've gone off and adjusted your blade
so it's perfectly parallel to the miter slots and found that it did nothing to fix your
ripping problems, by all means please do adjust your fence perfectly parallel to the blade. :-)
--
Free bad advice available here.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/
On 04/09/2010 02:02 AM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
> My previous post:
>
>> African Mahogany is Mahogany in name only.
>
> -----------------------------------
> "SonomaProducts.com" wrote:
>
>
>> Actually in botanical terms there is a true african mahogany
>> depending
>> on your specific definition. There are also a few other types sold
>> as
>> african mahogany that are not of the same family.
>>
>> Family meliaceae, genus swietinia is the Cuban and Honduran type and
>> family meliaceae, genus khaya is the african type. So there are true
>> african mahogany types. Some types that look the same like sapele
>> are
>> also called\sold as african mahogany but are not botanically in the
>> same family.
> -------------------------------------
> When push comes to shove and it's time to replank that Chris of your
> dreams, don't think you will use African Mahogany.
>
> Lew
Nope. There is no substitute for Honduras Mohagany.
--
Free bad advice available here.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/
On Fri, 9 Apr 2010 00:02:46 -0700, the infamous "Lew Hodgett"
<[email protected]> scrawled the following:
>My previous post:
>
>> African Mahogany is Mahogany in name only.
>
>-----------------------------------
>"SonomaProducts.com" wrote:
>
>
>> Actually in botanical terms there is a true african mahogany
>> depending
>> on your specific definition. There are also a few other types sold
>> as
>> african mahogany that are not of the same family.
>>
>> Family meliaceae, genus swietinia is the Cuban and Honduran type and
>> family meliaceae, genus khaya is the african type. So there are true
>> african mahogany types. Some types that look the same like sapele
>> are
>> also called\sold as african mahogany but are not botanically in the
>> same family.
>-------------------------------------
>When push comes to shove and it's time to replank that Chris of your
>dreams, don't think you will use African Mahogany.
Oh, sure. African mahogany, 3 hand-smeared coats of RBS, and poly
drizzled over the top. Who could ask for more? <thud>
--
Climb the mountains and get their good tidings. Nature's peace
will flow into you as sunshine flows into trees. The winds will
blow their own freshness into you, and the storms their energy,
while cares will drop away from you like the leaves of Autumn.
-- John Muir