i like to apply a finish that will not require much care and the poly
stuff does that well and it is easy to apply
so why does anyone use finishes that require regular maintenance and
careful usage
mostly talking about tables and chairs that get regular wear and tear
but anything that might get hot or cold or wet stuff on the surface
the poly stuff looks good to me and unless it was a ornamental lacquer
piece i do not see a big difference in the looks
On Tuesday, July 11, 2017 at 5:47:42 PM UTC-4, Electric Comet wrote:
> i like to apply a finish that will not require much care and the poly
> stuff does that well and it is easy to apply
>
> so why does anyone use finishes that require regular maintenance and
> careful usage
>
> mostly talking about tables and chairs that get regular wear and tear
> but anything that might get hot or cold or wet stuff on the surface
>
> the poly stuff looks good to me and unless it was a ornamental lacquer
> piece i do not see a big difference in the looks
Great Question.
To me, a lot of the quality of "do I want to have to do this again" depends upon the amount of prep to get to that point and the look that I'm trying to achieve on that particular piece.
Poly, to have it stick well and look good (Adhesion, dust free, etc.) can generally require quite a bit of work, and then, if you REALLY like a Poly, then you may REALLY like a poly high gloss, too... in which case it requires a frequent touch up.
My answer to your question is durability. But, I choose my coats for RELATIVE durability:
If it's a bar top, epoxy;
Floor, I go with poly or lacquer if it's a 'dressed down' or a traditional home.
Most of my typical, 'not much water contact' furniture, I do in Watco or Formsby Tung Oil Finish-- yes, I said the finish. It's a little harder, and buffs beautifully. Low sheen for me on these pieces.
Wall paneling (or trim, or natural wainscot) can't look any better, in my opinion, than sealed with with a shellac coat-- amber if a traditional look is desired or it's an old home. Conversely, a clear with light aniline dye tint if not.
I don't have to say this, but obviously Mineral Oil on high-traffic, food contact pieces... again simply for the ease and frequency of recoats as much as for the edible/potable nature of the coat.
All of the finishes I mentioned, with the exception of the epoxy bar top, are MUCH easier to prep and to reapply, with varying levels of necessity depending on the workpiece, than a Poly.
RELATIVE durability is my reply.
Electric Comet <[email protected]> wrote in news:ok3gqi$5pl$3
@dont-email.me:
> i like to apply a finish that will not require much care and the poly
> stuff does that well and it is easy to apply
>
> so why does anyone use finishes that require regular maintenance and
> careful usage
>
> mostly talking about tables and chairs that get regular wear and tear
> but anything that might get hot or cold or wet stuff on the surface
>
> the poly stuff looks good to me and unless it was a ornamental lacquer
> piece i do not see a big difference in the looks
>
Why I use shellac:
- Don't have to clean the brush after use. (Do have to clean the brush
before use, though.)
- Polyurethane reeks.
- The wood is ready for the second coat just about the time I get done
applying the second one.
- The wood will feel so naturally warm and soft when coated with shellac
and rubbed with wax and steel wool.
- No "someone's been finishing" smell after just a few minutes.
- The finish really serves to enhance the wood--not create an
impenetrable barrier.
- The smell is quite a bit better, not that it smells good by any means.
- Easy to thin with denatured alcohol. Apparently 99% Isopropyl will
work too, but I usually only have 70% in easy reach.
Puckdropper
--
http://www.puckdroppersplace.us/rec.woodworking
A mini archive of some of rec.woodworking's best and worst!
On Monday, July 17, 2017 at 2:10:16 PM UTC-5, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
> http://www.poloplaz.com/dry-vs-cure/
> Drying occurs when solvents evaporate from the surface of the film,
> leaving it tack free. There are four important elements of proper
> drying: temperature, humidity, film thickness and airflow. Temperature
> affects viscosity, which contributes to film thickness. Humidity affects
> the evaporation rate of the solvents. The amount of airflow determines
> how much oxygen will crosslink with the finish to initiate curing. High
> temperatures, low humidity, thin film thickness and adequate airflow
> will all expedite dry time and cure time. If these elements are not
> maintained properly, the finish could dry too quickly.
> Curing occurs when residual solvents leave the film and it begins
> crosslinking with oxygen in the air to develop strength, toughness,
> abrasion resistance and chemical resistance. Although most finishes
> reach 90% cure in seven days, full cure takes up to thirty days.
NAILED it. The guys at the local industrial Sherwin Williams I go to would probably offer you a job!
Robert
On Tuesday, July 11, 2017 at 4:47:42 PM UTC-5, Electric Comet wrote:
> i like to apply a finish that will not require much care and the poly
> stuff does that well and it is easy to apply
>
> so why does anyone use finishes that require regular maintenance and
> careful usage
>
> mostly talking about tables and chairs that get regular wear and tear
> but anything that might get hot or cold or wet stuff on the surface
>
> the poly stuff looks good to me and unless it was a ornamental lacquer
> piece i do not see a big difference in the looks
I've used 1/3 semi-gloss poly, 1/3 tung oil, and 1/3 BLO with good results. It offers good protection without the plastic look. But these days I most definitely prefer shellac and wax, even if it means upkeep. It's a beautiful, deep finish.
>Ed Pawlowski <[email protected]> was heard to mutter:
>A few years back someone posted a method to use poly and make it look
>like a quality finish. I've done it and it works well.
>
>Apply a thinned coat
>Apply two mre full strength sanding between
>Wait four weeks for it to cure
>Wet sand with 320 grit
>Rub with pumice
>Rub with rottenstone
>Wax
>
>Some info here:
>http://antiquerestorers.com/Articles/SAL/rub.htm
>
>http://forums.finewoodworking.com/fine-woodworking-knots/finishing/correct-use-rottenstone-or-pumice
>---
This method sound interesting. Would you happen to have any photos of
a piece finished in this method?
I'm not partial to poly. I've used it a fair amount, especially on
desks that get a lot of use. I currently have a few polyed pieces and,
over time, they don't look as good anymore. Poly is also rather
annoying to get right. I've fought many times with dust and bubbles.
The 'thinned' coat in your method has me thinking. I may have to try
this, at least on a test piece, to see how it comes out in comparison
to the other things I have polyed. Thanks for the tip.
`Casper
---
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
http://www.avg.com
On Tue, 11 Jul 2017 14:47:38 -0700, Electric Comet
<[email protected]> wrote:
>i like to apply a finish that will not require much care and the poly
>stuff does that well and it is easy to apply
>
>so why does anyone use finishes that require regular maintenance and
>careful usage
>
>mostly talking about tables and chairs that get regular wear and tear
>but anything that might get hot or cold or wet stuff on the surface
>
>the poly stuff looks good to me and unless it was a ornamental lacquer
>piece i do not see a big difference in the looks
Some people don't like plastic furniture. Go figure. Do you paint
cherry, red, too?
On 7/17/2017 12:43 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
> On Wed, 12 Jul 2017 16:21:48 -0400
> Ed Pawlowski <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> A few years back someone posted a method to use poly and make it look
>> like a quality finish. I've done it and it works well.
>>
>> Apply a thinned coat
>> Apply two mre full strength sanding between
>> Wait four weeks for it to cure
>> Wet sand with 320 grit
>> Rub with pumice
>> Rub with rottenstone
>> Wax
>
> like that idea
>
> not sure about the four week wait and that sounds like it is based on
> local climate or something but not always required but seems too long
> for poly or at least the poly i use
>
> i guess wax gives a three dimensional look and feel and is probably the
> key giving poly a different look
>
http://www.poloplaz.com/dry-vs-cure/
Drying occurs when solvents evaporate from the surface of the film,
leaving it tack free. There are four important elements of proper
drying: temperature, humidity, film thickness and airflow. Temperature
affects viscosity, which contributes to film thickness. Humidity affects
the evaporation rate of the solvents. The amount of airflow determines
how much oxygen will crosslink with the finish to initiate curing. High
temperatures, low humidity, thin film thickness and adequate airflow
will all expedite dry time and cure time. If these elements are not
maintained properly, the finish could dry too quickly.
Curing occurs when residual solvents leave the film and it begins
crosslinking with oxygen in the air to develop strength, toughness,
abrasion resistance and chemical resistance. Although most finishes
reach 90% cure in seven days, full cure takes up to thirty days.
Electric Comet <[email protected]> wrote:
> i like to apply a finish that will not require much care
> and the poly
> stuff does that well and it is easy to apply
>
> so why does anyone use finishes that require regular
> maintenance and
> careful usage
>
> mostly talking about tables and chairs that get regular
> wear and tear
> but anything that might get hot or cold or wet stuff on
> the surface
>
> the poly stuff looks good to me and unless it was a
> ornamental lacquer
> piece i do not see a big difference in the looks
you'll never get the depth of laquer with poly
On Wed, 12 Jul 2017 16:21:48 -0400
Ed Pawlowski <[email protected]> wrote:
> A few years back someone posted a method to use poly and make it look
> like a quality finish. I've done it and it works well.
>
> Apply a thinned coat
> Apply two mre full strength sanding between
> Wait four weeks for it to cure
> Wet sand with 320 grit
> Rub with pumice
> Rub with rottenstone
> Wax
like that idea
not sure about the four week wait and that sounds like it is based on
local climate or something but not always required but seems too long
for poly or at least the poly i use
i guess wax gives a three dimensional look and feel and is probably the
key giving poly a different look
On Wed, 12 Jul 2017 11:08:08 -0400
John McGaw <[email protected]> wrote:
> To me it matters what I'm making and what it will be used for.
> Low-wear pieces in an early style will not be 'right' in poly so they
> usually get oil and shellac and wax. It would be like somebody saying
> that they are building an exact copy of a 1921 auto and then
> installing a new turbocharged 4-cylinder because it is both easier
> and more efficient. Yes, it would be, but it would not be true to the
> original intent.
guess it depends on who you are trying to please
guy had a stutz bearcat replica
he loved that car and it is a distinctive look and guess what percentage
of drivers could tell that it was original or replica or even cared
he enjoyed driving and that mattered
simply put it boils down to who will actually be able to tell the
difference on the coating
not many people care and the number is going more toward zero than
upward
but if you like the traditional coating and know the difference that
is what you go with
On Mon, 17 Jul 2017 15:10:11 -0400
Ed Pawlowski <[email protected]> wrote:
> toughness, abrasion resistance and chemical resistance. Although most
> finishes reach 90% cure in seven days, full cure takes up to thirty
> days.
that is interesting
will have to pay more attention to that
if i could no longer smell the finish then i presumed it was fully cured
On 7/12/2017 3:21 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
> On 7/12/2017 11:08 AM, John McGaw wrote:
>> On 7/11/2017 5:47 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
>>> i like to apply a finish that will not require much care and the poly
>>> stuff does that well and it is easy to apply
>>>
>>> so why does anyone use finishes that require regular maintenance and
>>> careful usage
>>>
>>> mostly talking about tables and chairs that get regular wear and tear
>>> but anything that might get hot or cold or wet stuff on the surface
>>>
>>> the poly stuff looks good to me and unless it was a ornamental lacquer
>>> piece i do not see a big difference in the looks
>>>
>>>
>> To me it matters what I'm making and what it will be used for.
>> Low-wear pieces in an early style will not be 'right' in poly so they
>> usually get oil and shellac and wax. It would be like somebody saying
>> that they are building an exact copy of a 1921 auto and then
>> installing a new turbocharged 4-cylinder because it is both easier and
>> more efficient. Yes, it wuld be, but it would not be true to the
>> original intent.
>>
>
> Poly alone has a place but not for fine furniture. Kids bookcase, toys,
> etc.
>
> A few years back someone posted a method to use poly and make it look
> like a quality finish. I've done it and it works well.
>
> Apply a thinned coat
> Apply two mre full strength sanding between
> Wait four weeks for it to cure
> Wet sand with 320 grit
> Rub with pumice
> Rub with rottenstone
> Wax
>
> Some info here:
> http://antiquerestorers.com/Articles/SAL/rub.htm
>
> http://forums.finewoodworking.com/fine-woodworking-knots/finishing/correct-use-rottenstone-or-pumice
>
>
>
Or use a gel poly varnish. A great "adult" finish.
On 7/11/2017 5:47 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
> i like to apply a finish that will not require much care and the poly
> stuff does that well and it is easy to apply
>
> so why does anyone use finishes that require regular maintenance and
> careful usage
>
> mostly talking about tables and chairs that get regular wear and tear
> but anything that might get hot or cold or wet stuff on the surface
>
> the poly stuff looks good to me and unless it was a ornamental lacquer
> piece i do not see a big difference in the looks
>
>
To me it matters what I'm making and what it will be used for. Low-wear
pieces in an early style will not be 'right' in poly so they usually get
oil and shellac and wax. It would be like somebody saying that they are
building an exact copy of a 1921 auto and then installing a new
turbocharged 4-cylinder because it is both easier and more efficient. Yes,
it would be, but it would not be true to the original intent.
On 7/12/2017 11:08 AM, John McGaw wrote:
> On 7/11/2017 5:47 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
>> i like to apply a finish that will not require much care and the poly
>> stuff does that well and it is easy to apply
>>
>> so why does anyone use finishes that require regular maintenance and
>> careful usage
>>
>> mostly talking about tables and chairs that get regular wear and tear
>> but anything that might get hot or cold or wet stuff on the surface
>>
>> the poly stuff looks good to me and unless it was a ornamental lacquer
>> piece i do not see a big difference in the looks
>>
>>
> To me it matters what I'm making and what it will be used for. Low-wear
> pieces in an early style will not be 'right' in poly so they usually get
> oil and shellac and wax. It would be like somebody saying that they are
> building an exact copy of a 1921 auto and then installing a new
> turbocharged 4-cylinder because it is both easier and more efficient.
> Yes, it wuld be, but it would not be true to the original intent.
>
Poly alone has a place but not for fine furniture. Kids bookcase, toys,
etc.
A few years back someone posted a method to use poly and make it look
like a quality finish. I've done it and it works well.
Apply a thinned coat
Apply two mre full strength sanding between
Wait four weeks for it to cure
Wet sand with 320 grit
Rub with pumice
Rub with rottenstone
Wax
Some info here:
http://antiquerestorers.com/Articles/SAL/rub.htm
http://forums.finewoodworking.com/fine-woodworking-knots/finishing/correct-use-rottenstone-or-pumice