A tight delivery schedule for my daughter's jewelry armoire has led me to b=
uy a couple of cans of semi-gloss spray lacquer because of the 30-minute re=
coat time. I'm thinking three coats should suffice, but having never used =
this before I'm looking for any tips from those of you who have.
Thanks,
Larry
On Monday, June 10, 2013 4:04:59 PM UTC-5, Gramp's shop wrote:
> A tight delivery schedule for my daughter's jewelry armoire has led me to=
buy a couple of cans of semi-gloss spray lacquer because of the 30-minute =
recoat time. I'm thinking three coats should suffice, but having never use=
d this before I'm looking for any tips from those of you who have.
>=20
>=20
>=20
> Thanks,
>=20
>=20
>=20
> Larry
Thank you, one and all. I have cold beer in the fridge if any of you spray=
ers are in the neighborhood :-)
On Monday, June 10, 2013 4:04:59 PM UTC-5, Gramp's shop wrote:
> I'm looking for any tips from those of you who have. Thanks, Larry
I've never used the spray cans, but spray lacquer with a gun. Don't spray i=
n direct sunlight, or your finish coats will wrinkle/alligator. =20
If you have overspray, lightly sand it before spraying the next coat. Over=
spray is the spraying over an area you've just sprayed, i.e., overlapping s=
weeps of your sprayings, and a whitish cobweb-like surface will develope on=
top of the previous sweep. I often get overspray in cabinet corners. All=
ow those areas to dry before lightly sanding. I wouldn't think you would h=
ave too much overspray with a small jewelry box, but it's something to watc=
h for or recognize.
Try to avoid spraying too thick, so as not to have runs. For something tha=
t small, spray each face with the face flat, facing up, so that any excess =
lacquer won't run, it'll level out.... unless you know for sure the lacquer=
is not too thick/so thick, as to run.
Don't spray under a tree on windy days or you'll get tree debris on your pr=
oject. *I spray outdoors under shady trees, most often.
Sonny
"SonomaProducts.com" wrote:
> You might consider a cricket (I think that is what they are called.)
> it is a little glass bottle with an air spray can attachment. then
> you can mix real lacquer to your own liking on a mini scale.
--------------------------------------------------------
I know them as being produced by PreVal.
Available in any automotive paint store.
Lew
On Monday, June 10, 2013 2:04:59 PM UTC-7, Gramp's shop wrote:
> A tight delivery schedule for my daughter's jewelry armoire has led me to=
buy a couple of cans of semi-gloss spray lacquer because of the 30-minute =
recoat time. I'm thinking three coats should suffice, but having never use=
d this before I'm looking for any tips from those of you who have.
>=20
>=20
>=20
> Thanks,
>=20
>=20
>=20
General advice on spraying lacquer is lay a light coat from left to right t=
hen immediately while it is still wet lay a second coat front to back. Of c=
ourse if you have a lazy susan or whatever, just two coats at once in diffe=
rent directions.
This fills all crevices but also adds a little more volume to wet out the s=
urface and have it flow flat. after a few light coats let it dry a few hour=
s, then light sand with worn out 400, 600 or even 800. Then one more coat.
In the real world that last coat would be thinned quite a bit. I have even =
just sprayed a coat of solvent to rewet and level the surface.
You might consider a cricket (I think that is what they are called.) it is =
a little glass bottle with an air spray can attachment. then you can mix re=
al lacquer to your own liking on a mini scale.=20
> Larry
On Jun 10, 8:23=A0pm, woodchucker <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 6/10/2013 5:04 PM, Gramp's shop wrote:
>
> > A tight delivery schedule for my daughter's jewelry armoire has led me =
to buy a couple of cans of semi-gloss spray lacquer because of the 30-minut=
e recoat time. =A0I'm thinking three coats should suffice, but having never=
used this before I'm looking for any tips from those of you who have.
>
> > Thanks,
>
> > Larry
>
> Lacquer and shellac very fast. Shellac is way too under utilized.
> You can keep laying coats of lacquer since each coat melts the previous.
> In the end it will take a few days to fully harden. If you can leave it
> for 1 week before sanding out and steel wooling, you will be much better.
>
> BTW always in the future get gloss, when you finish sand and steel wool
> you can get any level of sheen you want, all the way up to full gloss aga=
in.
>
> --
> Jeff
Shellac is the perfect sealer for under lacquer. Lazy Susan is
a big help for spraying small, jewelry box-sized pieces. Four
coats of lacquer are better than three, help protect against
burning through if you rub the finish.
On 6/10/2013 5:04 PM, Gramp's shop wrote:
> A tight delivery schedule for my daughter's jewelry armoire has led me to buy a couple of cans of semi-gloss spray lacquer because of the 30-minute recoat time. I'm thinking three coats should suffice, but having never used this before I'm looking for any tips from those of you who have.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Larry
>
Lacquer and shellac very fast. Shellac is way too under utilized.
You can keep laying coats of lacquer since each coat melts the previous.
In the end it will take a few days to fully harden. If you can leave it
for 1 week before sanding out and steel wooling, you will be much better.
BTW always in the future get gloss, when you finish sand and steel wool
you can get any level of sheen you want, all the way up to full gloss again.
--
Jeff
On Mon, 10 Jun 2013 14:04:59 -0700 (PDT), "Gramp's shop"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>A tight delivery schedule for my daughter's jewelry armoire has led me to buy a couple of cans of semi-gloss spray lacquer because of the 30-minute recoat time. I'm thinking three coats should suffice, but having never used this before I'm looking for any tips from those of you who have.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Larry
Clean it well Nailshooters will probably be along with good advice,
rattle can can give great results.
Mark
On Monday, June 10, 2013 8:29:12 PM UTC-5, Mike Marlow wrote:
> A correction to Sonny's comment above - you want to overlap your spray -=
by approximately 50%. Overspray occurs from hitting an area that has alrea=
dy been shot and has started the process of flashing over.=20
I guess I could have been more clear with my comments. Particularly, when =
spraying large boxes, or the like, and after having sprayed an area 5 minut=
es ago, specifically at inside corners: When I go back to spray another pan=
el, I often get lots of overspray at/on the adjacent panels. This was an i=
ssue I recently had with spraying the interior of my entertainment center.
I did note someone's comments: to adjust timing of my sweeps/passes, as opp=
osed to adjusting distance and/or flow rate. For a learner, as I still am,=
my overspray problems are the worst problems I have for getting good resul=
ts. I really have to concentrate on not sweeping too fast. =20
Specifically with spraying the inside of my entertainment center project, I=
often found myself spraying/sweeping too fast and the overlapping coverage=
s were not always the best, either. Not only going slower, but adjusting/i=
ncreasing the spread of the spray (fan) would probably have helped with pro=
per coverage, also. Again, my worst issue, when spraying the EC, was the o=
verspray I was getting on adjacent panels.
Sonny
In news:[email protected],
Gramp's shop <[email protected]> belched:
> A tight delivery schedule for my daughter's jewelry armoire has led
> me to buy a couple of cans of semi-gloss spray lacquer because of the
> 30-minute recoat time. I'm thinking three coats should suffice, but
> having never used this before I'm looking for any tips from those of
> you who have.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Larry
A can of sanding sealer would help a lot. I use a heavy bodied sealer from
Mohawk.
Instead of sanding between coats, I would just use extra fine steel wool. It
cuts less and will rub out any overspray and is more forgiving than sand
paper.
Also, if you have it available , wiping it down after steel wool with a tack
rag will give you excellent results.
Also, a few practice sprays will help give you the feel of it.
IMO, lacquer is one of the easiest finishes to apply and is quick and
forgiving. Just use several light coats rather than heavy coats
hth
On Jun 10, 9:06 pm, "Mike Marlow"
> Robert is a chicken. I shoot the next coat as soon as I see the previous
> coat fully flash. I do wait for a full flash though - not as soon as it
> begins to flash. But - he shoots wood and I shoot steel, so you really
> should take his advice over mine on any point of contention. He's still a chicken though
>
*cluck* *cluck* ;^)
Well, one thing Mike is that you need to remember that the OP
<<specified>> rattle cans. With those, you cannot control the amount
of material coming from the tip, the pressure pushing it, the spray
pattern, nor the viscosity or the material you are shooting.
Remember, this is all about rattle cans, not anything else. I wanted
to answer the question the way it was asked.
Like you, I don't do what I said when using my equipment. When I was
doing a lot of door exterior door refinishing and shooting the
catalyzed conversion lacquer I like, I thinned that stuff down about
30% (as much as 50!) and would shoot thin wet coats about every 20
minutes or so. I used my HVLP CAS gun with a 1.2mm cap at about 16 -
19 psi and away I went!
I could put on 8 coats during the day (2mm per pass at point of
application) and hang the door and lock it out before going home.
Sanding is for mistakes. Good shooting technique requires no sanding.
Worried about blush? Put on the thinnest wet coat you can (with the
aforementioned overlaps of 50%) and check out to see if it blushes.
This trick is worth the price of admission... if you get some
blushing, spray a wet coat of pure thinner on the surface and it will
go away!
Shellac under lacquer on a pushed schedule? Never. Shellac used
alcohol as a solvent/carrier, and lacquer used lacquer thinner which
is much hotter (significantly higher VOC). This makes it too easy to
trap the slower evaporating alcohol under a much quicker drying
solvent based coating which can lead to too many problems to count.
Effectively, unless the shellac is properly cured, you can trap the
alcohol underneath the lacquer since they are two dissimilar solvents
(one is miscible, and one is not).
Unless you are sealing a damaged, dirty, or contaminated surface,
there is no need for shellac under lacquer. Lacquer resolvates onto
itself, and makes the perfect primer for the subsequent build coats.
*cluck* *cluck* my butt !!
But giving credit where credit is due, I still remember it was you
that got me to first try shooting urethane. I think about how
encouraging you were when I would have nothing to do with shooting
that stuff just about every time I load it up. I remember how silly I
felt after I shot it out on some cardboard and it worked just fine.
It is more viscous and dries slower than my really hot finishes so it
took a bit to get the hang of it, but after a quart or so I was all
over it.
As a sidebar, if you are shooting metal doors or other things (I know
you do cars, but if anything else gets in front of your gun) Sherwin
Williams is coming out with a new super hot 20 minute dry, high build
enamel. It might already be out. I loved their old product and it
performed like iron on handrails, metal doors (think behind strip
centers), and shot on like glass with minimum fuss with all the usual
equipment. Tried it in my HVLP and it worked great, but out of my CAS
guns it was terrific. Thinned it with toluene and it dried in 15
minutes! My SW guy says this stuff is even better. He said it was
made for wood (with a lot of prep) but was great for metal over
primer.
Want me to get you some info when it comes in?
Robert
On Jun 10, 4:04=A0pm, "Gramp's shop" <[email protected]>
wrote:
> A tight delivery schedule for my daughter's jewelry armoire has led me to=
buy a couple of cans of semi-gloss spray lacquer because of the 30-minute =
recoat time. =A0I'm thinking three coats should suffice, but having never u=
sed this before I'm looking for any tips from those of you who have.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Larry
I use that stuff in emergency, and it works great if you know what you
are doing. Full, wet coats on each surface with good lap joints per
pass is the key to success, as well as controlling the overspray on
smaller projects. To apply coats of lacquer, the instructions are
your best guideline, but you will need to adjust as per the number of
coats you apply, which of course will depend on the desired appearance
of the final product.
If you are in moderate climate with the temps under 80 degrees F and
moderate humidity (less than 75%) then the following might be good
guidelines.
Apply the first coat, then let it dry for 30 minutes. Apply a second
coat. Let it dry for about an hour, hour and a half. The best way to
tell if it is ready for a third coat is to lightly press your thumb
onto the surface (where it can't be seen!) and see if you feel any
adhesion. If you do, wait another half hour. The coated surface will
be ready for another pass when you don't feel adhesion, but you can
barely see your thumbprint in the finish when you move your finger.
If you need 4 coats, use the same technique to determine when the
surface is ready, but wait about 2 hours before applying another coat
to allow the preceding coats to outgas uniformly and sufficiently as
to not foul the remaining coats.
Buy the best spray lacquer you can, and buy cans with a fan tip, NOT
round. The fan tips make things much easier to successfully apply
controlled coats. Personally, I would suggest DEFT rattle cans.
Really good stuff.
Buy a couple more cans than you think you will need and hold onto the
receipts. Using rattle cans will require a lot more expense and a lot
more material as the cans only get about 35% of the lacquer on the
project in most cases. Take back what you don't use. Remember to get
some lacquer thinner for any cleanup of overspray, or if this will be
your only foray into lacquer application for a while, Goof Off works
well too, and can be used for a lot of other things.
Good luck!
On 6/10/2013 4:04 PM, Gramp's shop wrote:
> A tight delivery schedule for my daughter's jewelry armoire has led me to buy a couple of cans of semi-gloss spray lacquer because of the 30-minute recoat time. I'm thinking three coats should suffice, but having never used this before I'm looking for any tips from those of you who have.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Larry
If it's not too big,
A cardboard box makes a serviceable spray booth.
I prefer a "door" on the side.
A block of wood for the subject to sit on (or a lazy susan?)
and keep if off the bottom of the box.
Light spray of lacquer inside the box to tack down any dust,
Spray and close the door.
Come back 30 minutes later.
"Gramp's shop" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
A tight delivery schedule for my daughter's jewelry armoire has led me to buy a couple of cans of
semi-gloss spray lacquer because of the 30-minute recoat time. I'm thinking three coats should
suffice, but having never used this before I'm looking for any tips from those of you who have.
Thanks,
Larry
*******************************
Some good info here:
http://www.woodcentral.com/russ/finish11.shtml
Art
"Gramp's shop" <[email protected]> wrote:
>A tight delivery schedule for my daughter's jewelry armoire has led me to buy a couple of cans of semi-gloss spray lacquer because of the 30-minute recoat time. I'm thinking three coats should suffice, but having never used this before I'm looking for any tips from those of you who have.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Larry
I'm surprised no one has mentioned it yet, but in addition to the
other great tips here, get one can only for practice.
First, paint a piece of plywood or brown construction paper to get a
feel for how the product flows and covers. In particular, note how
fast your move to get full wet coats without running.
Then use some wood like you used in the project, sanded to the same
state, and repeat the practice spraying, using multiple coats like you
will on the final, and noting the drying time.
Only when you have mastered the test pieces is it safe to move on to
your jewelry box.
$5 of practice paint is a good investment.
--
Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked infrequently.
Sonny wrote:
> If you have overspray, lightly sand it before spraying the next coat.
> Overspray is the spraying over an area you've just sprayed, i.e.,
> overlapping sweeps of your sprayings, and a whitish cobweb-like
> surface will develope on top of the previous sweep. I often get
> overspray in cabinet corners. Allow those areas to dry before
> lightly sanding. I wouldn't think you would have too much overspray
> with a small jewelry box, but it's something to watch for or
> recognize.
A correction to Sonny's comment above - you want to overlap your spray - by
approximately 50%. Overspray occurs from hitting an area that has already
been shot and has started the process of flashing over. It may be hard to
avoid overspray with a rattle can. I don't use lacquer in rattle cans, but
by nature rattle cans tend to shoot with too much pressure, resutlting in
overspray over wide areas. I have found Krylon to shoot well as far as
rattle cans go, but I can't speak to using their lacquer.
Do be careful not to shoot lacquer on a humid day. Clouding will occur.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
alexy wrote:
>
> I'm surprised no one has mentioned it yet, but in addition to the
> other great tips here, get one can only for practice.
>
> First, paint a piece of plywood or brown construction paper to get a
> feel for how the product flows and covers. In particular, note how
> fast your move to get full wet coats without running.
>
> Then use some wood like you used in the project, sanded to the same
> state, and repeat the practice spraying, using multiple coats like you
> will on the final, and noting the drying time.
>
> Only when you have mastered the test pieces is it safe to move on to
> your jewelry box.
>
> $5 of practice paint is a good investment.
An excellent suggestion. I paint a lot but every car I shoot, I tape up a
couple of sheets of masking paper on the wall and do test shoots at it. For
exotic paints that I've not shot before, or I do not shoot on any regular
basis, I shoot a test piece of steel, fully primed, etc. It's worth the
extra time, cleanup, etc.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Sonny wrote:
>
> If you have overspray, lightly sand it before spraying the next coat.
> Overspray is the spraying over an area you've just sprayed, i.e.,
> overlapping sweeps of your sprayings, and a whitish cobweb-like
> surface will develope on top of the previous sweep. I often get
> overspray in cabinet corners. Allow those areas to dry before
> lightly sanding. I wouldn't think you would have too much overspray
> with a small jewelry box, but it's something to watch for or
> recognize.
>
Another comment on Sonny's advice - lacquer will burn into previous coats,
so unless you create some kind of an ungodly mess with a coat, you can
simply shoot over each previous coat. One piece of advice I might offer is
that if your second coat begins to show orange peel, I believe it is worth
stopping there, allowing the lacquer to dry, and then wet sand it flat.
Adjust your spray technique to apply a wetter coat, and go from there.
Lacquer is very forgiving, so it's worth it to simply stop and fix the
problem, rather than flattening it out later on. No matter in the end - you
can always flatten it out in the end if you wish - it's just my preference
to shoot it as flat as possible, rather than to suffer through the uglies of
orange peel. Personal hang up...
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Richard wrote:
>
> Light spray of lacquer inside the box to tack down any dust,
>
You big chicken! A real man shoots the little dust particles out of the
spray area while shooting the object. Kinda like shooting quarters in the
air with a pistol...
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Gramp's shop wrote:
> A tight delivery schedule for my daughter's jewelry armoire has led
> me to buy a couple of cans of semi-gloss spray lacquer because of the
> 30-minute recoat time. I'm thinking three coats should suffice, but
> having never used this before I'm looking for any tips from those of
> you who have.
>
Larry - do yourself a favor and do a google search on some of the pointers
that Robert and I have posted in this group over the years. You should
probably be able to pull up some good results by searching on things like
"spray painting" or some similar search string.
If that fails - email Karl... He's been stockpiling some of these posts so
that when he retires he can publish a book on it all and fund his
retirement... But really - he says he's been archiving a lot of these
posts, I'm sure he'll share them with you.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
[email protected] wrote:
Chiming in as the "other painter" in the group - though I call Robert when
the shit hits the fan...
>
> I use that stuff in emergency, and it works great if you know what you
> are doing. Full, wet coats on each surface with good lap joints per
> pass is the key to success,
I cannot endorse this comment enough. (I wasn't going to do this but...) -
think of yourself stretching a piece of plastic wrap over your project piece
with your spray. You want as wet a coat as you can put down to achieve that
look, without creating runs or sags. Practice on scraps first. With
lacquer, you are lucky - wet sanding out runs and sags is a snap, and then
all you do is buff back to the desired degree of sheen. Spray wet! Dry
will result in orange peel and then you'll certainly be wet sanding. Or
worse - overspray. Think stretching that plastic wrap stuff and watch your
coat as it is going down. You cannot guess at this stuff, or hope for the
best - watch the spray going down on the project and adjust your speed to
accomodate that result. Don't adjust the distance you shoot from the
project or you'll surely end up with orange peel or overspray. Always
adjust your speed. Constant distance, perpendicular to the project (read
that again, and then again...), adjust speed as necessary.
>
> If you are in moderate climate with the temps under 80 degrees F and
> moderate humidity (less than 75%) then the following might be good
> guidelines.
>
> Apply the first coat, then let it dry for 30 minutes. Apply a second
> coat. Let it dry for about an hour, hour and a half. The best way to
> tell if it is ready for a third coat is to lightly press your thumb
> onto the surface (where it can't be seen!) and see if you feel any
> adhesion. If you do, wait another half hour. The coated surface will
> be ready for another pass when you don't feel adhesion, but you can
> barely see your thumbprint in the finish when you move your finger.
>
Robert is a chicken. I shoot the next coat as soon as I see the previous
coat fully flash. I do wait for a full flash though - not as soon as it
begins to flash. But - he shoots wood and I shoot steel, so you really
should take his advice over mine on any point of contention. He's still a
chicken though...
Since there is usually some sort of paper or tape somewhere in the immediate
area of the project I'm shooting (masking), I do my tests there. In other
words, that's where I stick my finger to test for whether I really want to
shoot another coat yet or not. Sometimes it can be hard to see if the
previous coat has fully flashed, and I do fall back to the finger test.
> If you need 4 coats, use the same technique to determine when the
> surface is ready, but wait about 2 hours before applying another coat
> to allow the preceding coats to outgas uniformly and sufficiently as
> to not foul the remaining coats
See - that 's a difference between Robert and I - though I encourage you to
take his advice. I shoot the next coat as soon as I see a full flash and I
feel the right degree of tack on the mask. Could not expect you to
understand that last part in a short newsgroup post though. The thing is
that if you're going to do it my way, you *really* have to be watching your
surface because you are going to be spraying another wet coat on top of
previous coats that are barely able to hold it. It will make a great
finish, but you need to know what you are doing, or you'll create some
really great runs and sags. When that happens, we consider it to be
"art"...
>
> Buy the best spray lacquer you can, and buy cans with a fan tip, NOT
> round. The fan tips make things much easier to successfully apply
> controlled coats. Personally, I would suggest DEFT rattle cans.
> Really good stuff.
Echo the part about buying the best you can find. The difference in price
is small potatoes in the end.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Gramp's shop wrote:
> On Monday, June 10, 2013 4:04:59 PM UTC-5, Gramp's shop wrote:
>> A tight delivery schedule for my daughter's jewelry armoire has led
>> me to buy a couple of cans of semi-gloss spray lacquer because of
>> the 30-minute recoat time. I'm thinking three coats should suffice,
>> but having never used this before I'm looking for any tips from
>> those of you who have.
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>>
>>
>> Larry
>
> Thank you, one and all. I have cold beer in the fridge if any of you
> sprayers are in the neighborhood :-)
In the damned neighborhood? Hell - just bring that thing up to Syracuse!
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
"Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Do be careful not to shoot lacquer on a humid day. Clouding will occur.
If it does, respray and put the sprayed object inside a closed container
such as a cardboard box. That slows the drying of the lacquer allowing the
water vapor to escape. You could spray with just lacquer thinner too.
dadiOH
"Gramp's shop" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
A tight delivery schedule for my daughter's jewelry armoire has led me to
buy a couple of cans of semi-gloss spray lacquer because of the 30-minute
recoat time. I'm thinking three coats should suffice, but having never used
this before I'm looking for any tips from those of you who have.
Lacquer thins out a lot after it is dry, three coats might be a bit on the
skimpy side depending upon how thick you spray it.
I don't have spray equipment but I brush a lot of Deft...always three heavy
coats minimum, then sand lightly and 1-2 more.
dadiOH
I read all of the replies to your post, and most were really good. I
noticed that there were two critical points not mentioned. *First, if you
shoot with a gun, mix some lacquer retarder in your final coats to make it
flow out. This will also remove blushes and some roughness. A thin quick
spraying of Sanding sealer over a newly finished last coat can slick things
out sometimes. *Second, you must position your view of your spraying so
that you can see that you are covering, looking for a reflection.
Others have made some excellent points, I largely agree with most. Lacquer
sanding sealer is most of what I use on all but the finish coat. Sanding
sealer is easy to sand and it makes it easier to achieve that slick finish.
Lacquer is too hard to sand to make a really smooth substrate, and the
sanding sealer coats make the finish look deeper.
In general, if you thin more, it will take more coats. I usually do between
3 and 5 coats.
I spray with a Binks model 7 cup gun that has worked well, but a cheap gun
can achieve as much. If you shoot clear products with a gun, do not use this
gun for any color because sometimes a residue of color will show up on your
nice clear finish. Better to just go get a cheapo Harbor Freight gun and
dedicate it to color. I am sure that someone will disagree with me about
this, but it's my opinion and the way I work.
woodstuff
"Gramp's shop" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
A tight delivery schedule for my daughter's jewelry armoire has led me to
buy a couple of cans of semi-gloss spray lacquer because of the 30-minute
recoat time. I'm thinking three coats should suffice, but having never used
this before I'm looking for any tips from those of you who have.
Thanks,
Larry
woodstuff wrote:
>
> I spray with a Binks model 7 cup gun that has worked well, but a
> cheap gun can achieve as much. If you shoot clear products with a
> gun, do not use this gun for any color because sometimes a residue of
> color will show up on your nice clear finish. Better to just go get
> a cheapo Harbor Freight gun and dedicate it to color. I am sure that
> someone will disagree with me about this, but it's my opinion and the
> way I work.
>
A man after my own heart! I don't use my model 7 for any good finishes
these days, but it is a long loved gun for me. Those things will shoot
anything - straight from the tar pit. I use mine to shoot Rustoleum
straight from the can, and it lays out a nice smooth finish. No thinners,
just ooze the stuff into the cup and shoot. That gun has been out of patent
for so long now that the Harbor Freight knock off is a perfect knock off of
the original gun. Makes a cheap way to keep a color gun and a clear gun on
hand. And, they can often be found for very cheap in yard sales. Parts are
still available for them too.
I would not disagree with your practice of having two separate guns on
hand - in fact, I'd suggest three. I keep a model 7 just for primers. Then
I have modern HVLP guns for color and clear. Good diligent cleaning will
work to use one gun for everything, and most of us who have a lot of paint
experience have done it all with one gun for a long time, in the past, but
inarguably it is better to have separate guns for separate tasks.
The only additional point I would add to your comments is that the Harbor
Freight guns are so cheap, and they work very well (for the most part), that
it is cheap enough to make the move to HVLP (Conversion style gun), and the
savings in material over what a Model 7 or one of its knock offs will
produce in overspray, makes the modern gun well worth the small investment.
That said - I would still recommend anyone keep a Model 7 on hand for those
ugly tasks like shooting Rustoleum or the likes.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
"Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> woodstuff wrote:
>
> >
> > I spray with a Binks model 7 cup gun that has worked well, but a
> > cheap gun can achieve as much. If you shoot clear products with a
> > gun, do not use this gun for any color because sometimes a residue of
> > color will show up on your nice clear finish. Better to just go get
> > a cheapo Harbor Freight gun and dedicate it to color. I am sure that
> > someone will disagree with me about this, but it's my opinion and the
> > way I work.
> >
>
> A man after my own heart! I don't use my model 7 for any good finishes
> these days, but it is a long loved gun for me. Those things will shoot
> anything - straight from the tar pit. I use mine to shoot Rustoleum
> straight from the can, and it lays out a nice smooth finish. No thinners,
> just ooze the stuff into the cup and shoot. That gun has been out of
patent
> for so long now that the Harbor Freight knock off is a perfect knock off
of
> the original gun. Makes a cheap way to keep a color gun and a clear gun
on
> hand. And, they can often be found for very cheap in yard sales. Parts
are
> still available for them too.
>
> I would not disagree with your practice of having two separate guns on
> hand - in fact, I'd suggest three. I keep a model 7 just for primers.
Then
> I have modern HVLP guns for color and clear. Good diligent cleaning will
> work to use one gun for everything, and most of us who have a lot of paint
> experience have done it all with one gun for a long time, in the past, but
> inarguably it is better to have separate guns for separate tasks.
>
> The only additional point I would add to your comments is that the Harbor
> Freight guns are so cheap, and they work very well (for the most part),
that
> it is cheap enough to make the move to HVLP (Conversion style gun), and
the
> savings in material over what a Model 7 or one of its knock offs will
> produce in overspray, makes the modern gun well worth the small
investment.
> That said - I would still recommend anyone keep a Model 7 on hand for
those
> ugly tasks like shooting Rustoleum or the likes.
>
> --
>
> -Mike-
> [email protected]
>
I'm not a professional painter, and generally I only put a finish on
cabinets that I build. The only reason that I finish some things is because
there are too many painters who don't pay attention to detail and
consequently make my work look bad. (I have by now done so many cabinets
that I have learned most of what *not* to do)! I wanted an HVLP rig long
ago, as I wanted a good airless, but the money just didn't happen when I was
young so I just stayed with what I had.
Today, I am struggling to just maintain my equipment and tooling; there
isn't an excess of money right now; there are no new guns in my plans. If I
had to pay rent for my shop in an industrial district like in the past, this
business would be history. Even though there is more prosperity here in
north Texas than what I have heard of in other places, I still don't see
many new houses going up. Sometimes I feel like I should have aspired to be
a Wal-Mart door greeter.
Sonny wrote:
> On Monday, June 10, 2013 8:29:12 PM UTC-5, Mike Marlow wrote:
>> A correction to Sonny's comment above - you want to overlap your
>> spray - by approximately 50%. Overspray occurs from hitting an area
>> that has already been shot and has started the process of flashing
>> over.
>
> I guess I could have been more clear with my comments. Particularly,
> when spraying large boxes, or the like, and after having sprayed an
> area 5 minutes ago, specifically at inside corners: When I go back to
> spray another panel, I often get lots of overspray at/on the adjacent
> panels. This was an issue I recently had with spraying the interior
> of my entertainment center.
>
> I did note someone's comments: to adjust timing of my sweeps/passes,
> as opposed to adjusting distance and/or flow rate. For a learner, as
> I still am, my overspray problems are the worst problems I have for
> getting good results. I really have to concentrate on not sweeping
> too fast.
>
> Specifically with spraying the inside of my entertainment center
> project, I often found myself spraying/sweeping too fast and the
> overlapping coverages were not always the best, either. Not only
> going slower, but adjusting/increasing the spread of the spray (fan)
> would probably have helped with proper coverage, also. Again, my
> worst issue, when spraying the EC, was the overspray I was getting on
> adjacent panels.
>
The other recommendation I would offer is to learn to use your trigger. In
tough spots like that, you can use a partial trigger pull and that will
allow you to slow way down, watch your coverage, and achieve the desired
finish, with much less frustration and problems. Of course, this presumes
you are using a gun and not a rattle can.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
"Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote
> The other recommendation I would offer is to learn to use your trigger.
> In tough spots like that, you can use a partial trigger pull and that will
> allow you to slow way down, watch your coverage, and achieve the desired
> finish, with much less frustration and problems. Of course, this presumes
> you are using a gun and not a rattle can.
And the advice given earlier to always paint so you can see light in the
reflection is a key one, to me. It takes a lot of light, but if you can not
see reflection, you really can't see what you are doing, IMHO.
Jim in NC