The only problem with oven cleaner is that it will eat the blade if left
on too long. It can be used and it often recommended (and just as often
discouraged).
A much more conservative (safer) route is to use "Simple Green" that you
can get just about anywhere. If you need a little more "tooth" in the
cleaner you can also use a nylon bruch to clean the teeth. But if you
use pretty warm water along with simple green you'll find that it's easy
to clean blades and you won't harm the solder holding the teeth on.
Simple green should be more than enough to clean your blades and router
bits though.
I use silicone protectant often too, but a better alternative (when I
have it around) is to use Boeshield T-9. The problem with silicone is
that while it's great a preventing rust, it can stain wood and it can
interfere with a finish that you're going to put on the wood. (Kind of
like how silcone screws with automotive paint it is on the vehicle when
you paint it).
Boeshield is more like a wax so it doesn't attract dust and is MUCH
better for protecting against rust. I use it on everything but it's
about $10 a can. Works great though in a dusty environment as it
doesn't attract dust like wd-40 or any other silicone lubricant.
alan
HarryM wrote:
> There are several commercial products available, but I just use a brush
> cleaner unless they are really gummed up with resin. Then I use an oven
> cleaner on them. Finally, I clean them with soap/water, spray them with
> WD-40, and hang them in the blade cabinet or back on the saw. harrym
>
> "Thomas Mitchell" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>I'm starting to get a few saw blades for the TS and mitre saws. As I
>>took the dado stack off the ts last night I noticed the blades where a
>>little grimy. What can I use on the blades when storing them to protect
>>and clean the blade?
>>
>
>
>
In article <1058206591.380632@sj-nntpcache-5>,
Alan Kauth <[email protected]> wrote:
>The only problem with oven cleaner is that it will eat the blade if left
>on too long. It can be used and it often recommended (and just as often
>discouraged).
>
>A much more conservative (safer) route is to use "Simple Green" that you
>can get just about anywhere. If you need a little more "tooth" in the
>cleaner you can also use a nylon bruch to clean the teeth. But if you
>use pretty warm water along with simple green you'll find that it's easy
>to clean blades and you won't harm the solder holding the teeth on.
>
>Simple green should be more than enough to clean your blades and router
>bits though.
Simple Green is great for a lot of clean-up applications.
Another wonderful product, *if* you can find it, is "Perfex". it's a powder
you dissolve in water. Good for taking kids fingerprints off walls,
'de waxing' floors (before applying a new coat), and cleaning 'burner bibs'
on electric stoves, among other things.
Thomas Mitchell <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> I'm starting to get a few saw blades for the TS and mitre saws. As I
> took the dado stack off the ts last night I noticed the blades where a
> little grimy. What can I use on the blades when storing them to protect
> and clean the blade?
Has anyone ever tried Castrol Super Clean (wear gloves)?
There are several commercial products available, but I just use a brush
cleaner unless they are really gummed up with resin. Then I use an oven
cleaner on them. Finally, I clean them with soap/water, spray them with
WD-40, and hang them in the blade cabinet or back on the saw. harrym
"Thomas Mitchell" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm starting to get a few saw blades for the TS and mitre saws. As I
> took the dado stack off the ts last night I noticed the blades where a
> little grimy. What can I use on the blades when storing them to protect
> and clean the blade?
>
On Wed, 16 Jul 2003 08:00:23 -0400, Thomas Mitchell
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Nice pics. Looks like a nice storage system for blades. Now I wish I had
>that many blades. :)
I don't! <G>
I actually have only three, plus a dado set and a 10" sanding disc.
One "main" combo blade, one "old" combo blade for MDF, and one
dedicated rip blade. The dado set takes up two drawers.
The rest of the drawers are for future growth.
Barry
In article <[email protected]>,
Thomas Mitchell <[email protected]> wrote:
> clean the blade?
1 tablespoon of TSP in 'bout 2 cups of warm water - soak blade for 5-10
mins and hit the resin deposits with a vegatable or dish brush - rinse
and dry.
Did I say it was cheap? No? Well then, it's cheap - and effective.
--
Owen Lowe and his Fly-by-Night Copper Company
Offering a shim for the Porter-Cable 557 type 2 fence design.
<http://www.flybynightcoppercompany.com>
<http://www.easystreet.com/~onlnlowe/index.html>
Owen Lowe responds:
>> clean the blade?
>
>1 tablespoon of TSP in 'bout 2 cups of warm water - soak blade for 5-10
>mins and hit the resin deposits with a vegatable or dish brush - rinse
>and dry.
>
>Did I say it was cheap? No? Well then, it's cheap - and effective.
I've not tried that one. One thing: all I can find in these green days is TSP
substitute. TSP seems to be totally off the market. Any suggestions?
Charlie Self
Facts are stupid things.
Ronald Reagan
On 15 Jul 2003 10:30:03 GMT, [email protected] (Charlie Self)
wrote:
>
>I've not tried that one. One thing: all I can find in these green days is TSP
>substitute. TSP seems to be totally off the market. Any suggestions?
I use Zep "Orange Cleaner" from the cleaning supply section at the
Borg. It's $7-8 a gallon here in CT.
I already had it in the shop, as I use it for degreasing bicycle
parts. The stuff removes pitch, etc... from saw blades like nothing
else.
Simple Green gets used all over my home and shop, but it's not the
best degreaser or pitch remover.
Barry
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] (Charlie Self) wrote:
> >> clean the blade?
> >
> >1 tablespoon of TSP in 'bout 2 cups of warm water - soak blade for 5-10
> >mins and hit the resin deposits with a vegatable or dish brush - rinse
> >and dry.
> >
> >Did I say it was cheap? No? Well then, it's cheap - and effective.
>
> I've not tried that one. One thing: all I can find in these green days is TSP
> substitute. TSP seems to be totally off the market. Any suggestions?
My Ace Hardware carries the Lundmark brand of TSP. I didn't see anywhere
on the tub indicating it was anything other than the real thing.
--
Owen Lowe and his Fly-by-Night Copper Company
Offering a shim for the Porter-Cable 557 type 2 fence design.
<http://www.flybynightcoppercompany.com>
<http://www.easystreet.com/~onlnlowe/index.html>
On Tue, 15 Jul 2003 07:36:47 -0400, "Joel Jacobson" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>> ..... What can I use on the blades when storing them to protect and clean
>the blade?
>
>For blades 10" and smaller, I use the lids from 5 gallon buckets. I drill a
>hole in the center of the lid, push in a short 3/8" carraige bolt from the
>bottom, and holk the blade in with a washer and wing nut.
>
>I also use lids to hold the blades while cleaning. I spray them with Simple
>Green, brush them, if needed, and rinse them off and dry them.
>
>
I use this:
<http://www.bburke.com/wood/images/bladebox.jpg>
<http://www.bburke.com/wood/images/bladeboxdrwr.jpg>
It took about 2 hours to make, I found the idea in a book. The
"drawers" come out and can sit on the saw during changes, protectid
the blades.
Barry