I googled it to death - and lot of people have said they have done it.
What Im trying to do is have my DC turn on when I turn any of my tools on in
my shop.
When I turn the tool off - have it wait 10 sec then turn off.
The DC is 220.
The Jointer is 220
The Tablesaw is 220
The planer, drill press, chop saw, bandsaw is 110.
I only have 2 220 plugs in the shop - all on the same circuit.
I have a few 110 - all on the same circuit (just the way it was when I moved
in)
Can someone give me specifics on what I would need to do it have it work the
way I want it to?
Hit the on switch on the TS and have the DC come on.
Thanks
-Rob
only differences between the remote and blast gate actuated is that I
don't need to remember to wear the remote, I don't need to remember
where the remote is and a remote plus opening the gate is 2 steps not
one with the blast gate actuated.
Not a lot of difference but depending on how organised you are, it could
be the deciding factor. My "micro switches" are shop made from oak and
#6 screws, wiring is bell wire. the closing delay after the tool shuts
off is the time it takes to make sure the tool is safe and then close
the gate 10 - 30 seconds.
BRuce
Rob V wrote:
> I googled it to death - and lot of people have said they have done it.
>
> What Im trying to do is have my DC turn on when I turn any of my tools on in
> my shop.
> When I turn the tool off - have it wait 10 sec then turn off.
> The DC is 220.
> The Jointer is 220
> The Tablesaw is 220
> The planer, drill press, chop saw, bandsaw is 110.
>
> I only have 2 220 plugs in the shop - all on the same circuit.
> I have a few 110 - all on the same circuit (just the way it was when I moved
> in)
>
> Can someone give me specifics on what I would need to do it have it work the
> way I want it to?
> Hit the on switch on the TS and have the DC come on.
>
> Thanks
> -Rob
>
>
--
---
BRuce
but during that spin down time there is little to no suction. the more
you keep out of the piping, the more efficient it stays.
BRuce
Chris Merrill wrote:
> Rob V wrote:
>
>> When I turn the tool off - have it wait 10 sec then turn off.
>
>
> That feature may not be as necessary as you might guess...those
> big DC fans take a while to spin down :) I think mine takes
> about 30 seconds.
>
--
---
BRuce
Rob V wrote:
> When I turn the tool off - have it wait 10 sec then turn off.
That feature may not be as necessary as you might guess...those
big DC fans take a while to spin down :) I think mine takes
about 30 seconds.
--
************************************
Chris Merrill
[email protected]
(remove the ZZZ to contact me)
************************************
I did exactly what you want to do, Here's how.
First off, most of my tools are 110 vac, but this really doesn't matter.
For your 110 vac tools, you can get at Sears a remote switch where the
tool plugs into a main out and the DC would plug into an accessory out.
I made a relay box as described below. At this point you can use a 110
vac relay in the relay box. Using a DPDT relay you can make the output
in the box 220 vac for the DC.
For your 220 vac tools, run them to a 220 vac relay. You won't have the
added run time unless you place a capacitor across the coil for the time
delay.
Mine works so well, all I do is open the blast gate and turn on the
tool. The automatic switch is located at the wall where a 6=way power
strip is plugged into it. I plug my tools into the power strip and hook
up the dc lines. With some tools like my bandsaw, it has it's very own
switch which will turn on a work light and a return line to the relay
box turns on the DC.
--
Woody
Check out my Web Page at:
http://community-1.webtv.net/WoodworkerJoe/WoodworkerJoesInfo
Where you will find:
******** How My Shop Works ******** 5-21-03
* * * Build a $20 DC Separator Can Lid. 1-14-03
* * * DC Relay Box Building Plans. 1-14-03
* * * The Bad Air Your Breath Everyday.1-14-03
* * * What is a Real Woodworker? 2-8-03
* * * Murphy's Woodworking Definitions. 2-8-03
* * * Murphy's Woodworking Laws. 4-6-03
* * * What is the true meaning of life? 1-14-03
* * * Woodworker Shop Signs. 2-8-03
Rob V wrote:
> I googled it to death - and lot of people have said they have done it.
>
> What Im trying to do is have my DC turn on when I turn any of my tools on in
> my shop.
> When I turn the tool off - have it wait 10 sec then turn off.
> The DC is 220.
> The Jointer is 220
> The Tablesaw is 220
> The planer, drill press, chop saw, bandsaw is 110.
>
> I only have 2 220 plugs in the shop - all on the same circuit.
> I have a few 110 - all on the same circuit (just the way it was when I moved
> in)
>
> Can someone give me specifics on what I would need to do it have it work the
> way I want it to?
> Hit the on switch on the TS and have the DC come on.
>
> Thanks
> -Rob
Typically it's the blast gates that are used to control the dust collector.
Open the blast gate and the DC turns on, close the blast gate and it turns off.
To do this for a 220 volt DC requires the use of a low voltage operated
contactor with contacts rated for 220 volts with an amperage rating exceeding
the draw of the DC and micro-switches for each blast gate.
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
(Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)
There was an article a couple years ago in FWW. It showed you how to
put a sensor on your power lines at the box that would switch the power
line to your DC. Everything is auomatic except the blast gates. If you
really want this, email me and I'll do my best to find it.
Cheers,
Mike
Rob V wrote:
>
> I googled it to death - and lot of people have said they have done it.
>
> What Im trying to do is have my DC turn on when I turn any of my tools on in
> my shop.
> When I turn the tool off - have it wait 10 sec then turn off.
> The DC is 220.
> The Jointer is 220
> The Tablesaw is 220
> The planer, drill press, chop saw, bandsaw is 110.
>
> I only have 2 220 plugs in the shop - all on the same circuit.
> I have a few 110 - all on the same circuit (just the way it was when I moved
> in)
>
> Can someone give me specifics on what I would need to do it have it work the
> way I want it to?
> Hit the on switch on the TS and have the DC come on.
>
> Thanks
> -Rob
--
-----------------------------------------------------------
Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Email: [email protected]
RSG Roll Call:
http://rec-sport-golf.com/members/index.html?rollcall=mthunt
------------------------------------------------------------
"Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> "Rob V" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > I googled it to death - and lot of people have said they have done it.
> >
> > Can someone give me specifics on what I would need to do it have it work
> the
> > way I want it to?
> > Hit the on switch on the TS and have the DC come on.
>
> I don't know either. I use a Long Ranger remote that can be clipped on to
> my belt.
>
> If the wiring gets to complicated with switches and relays, consider the
> remote.
> Ed
Like Ed said. I use a remote. Works fine. Now if I had something I
could afford to open close the gates on each tool that would be primo.
I know it's out there but too much for moi.
Paul
"Rob V" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I googled it to death - and lot of people have said they have done it.
>
> What Im trying to do is have my DC turn on when I turn any of my tools on
in
> my shop.
> When I turn the tool off - have it wait 10 sec then turn off.
> The DC is 220.
> The Jointer is 220
> The Tablesaw is 220
> The planer, drill press, chop saw, bandsaw is 110.
>
> I only have 2 220 plugs in the shop - all on the same circuit.
> I have a few 110 - all on the same circuit (just the way it was when I
moved
> in)
>
> Can someone give me specifics on what I would need to do it have it work
the
> way I want it to?
> Hit the on switch on the TS and have the DC come on.
>
> Thanks
> -Rob
I looked into the whole automated dust collection system also but decided
that it was way too much work and that I would do it in steps. I decided
that the best first step.was to use a remote to turn on the collector before
I started each tool. I have been using the system for about six years and
have found no reason to do the rest.
Good luck - Bob McBreen
On Mon, 17 Nov 2003 22:53:01 GMT, "M. T. Hunt" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>There was an article a couple years ago in FWW. It showed you how to
>put a sensor on your power lines at the box that would switch the power
>line to your DC.
Ignoring routers for a moment, the main users of plumbed-in dust
collectors are static machines like bandsaws and shapers. As these
have separate switch contactors and motors, it's easy to tap an extra
way on the contactor to find a volt-free switch that you can use to
drive a DC. Even if you can't get a dedicated contact, just tap the
supply to the motor, downstream of the switch (but now you're wiring a
mains voltage, and must be a bit more careful with it).
My router table has a switch on the table, so I can leave the awkward
to reach router switch permanently on. I can tap this likewise.
My DC contactors, and the boxes they're housed in, came as scrap from
some industrial rebuilding work and the rubbish skips at a friend's
factory.
--
Die Gotterspammerung - Junkmail of the Gods
"Rob V" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I googled it to death - and lot of people have said they have done it.
>
> Can someone give me specifics on what I would need to do it have it work
the
> way I want it to?
> Hit the on switch on the TS and have the DC come on.
I don't know either. I use a Long Ranger remote that can be clipped on to
my belt.
If the wiring gets to complicated with switches and relays, consider the
remote.
Ed