Make a bandsaw template jig

On Sunday, January 20, 2013 3:57:59 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
> On 1/20/2013 1:50 PM, Swingman wrote:
>
> > On 1/20/2013 1:27 PM, Doug Winterburn wrote:
>
> >
>
> >> I'd think complementary convex and concave templates would do it. You
>
> >> want to have the "keeper" on the template so as not to undercut and
>
> >> probably do the concave cut first.
>
> >
>
> > Which would call for a better way to secure jig from moving forward and
>
> > back than the magnetic feather boards, which would appear to get in the
>
> > way of an inside curve/concave cut.
>
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> Simple solution, Split the rail that fits in the miter slot and use a
>
> flat top/counter sing washer in that rail. As you tighten the top knob
>
> the screw expands the split rail and the rail tightens in the slot.
>
>
>
> I have a feather board that uses that method of staying put in the miter
>
> slot.

I just posted the same solution. I really should read all the replies first.

"G.W.Ross" <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 1/19/2013 11:26 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>> Let me know your thoughts on this:
>>
>> http://www.garagewoodworks.com/video.php?video=70
>
> Got my viewer going. Ingenious. One problem for me--my Griz only has
> one miter slot and it is on the out side of the table. To be workable
> the jig would have to be fastened to the table with bolts. Doable, but
> not simple. Clamps might work if there were no obstructions on the underside of the table.

Although I have two tables for my band saw, one with a miter slot that
would work well, I would have to remove the home made table insert to use
them:

http://www.e-woodshop.net/images/DrillPressTable1.jpg

Still, I think a jig using either the feather board miter slot idea, or
nuts/hardware for the t- slots shown, would also work.

--
www.ewoodshop.com (Mobile)

On Saturday, January 19, 2013 8:26:32 PM UTC-8, [email protected] wrote:
> Let me know your thoughts on this: http://www.garagewoodworks.com/video.php?video=70

I always though that could be done just never tried it. Kudos and thanks. Will use something like it for sure.

On 01/20/2013 12:06 PM, Swingman wrote:
> On 1/20/2013 12:14 PM, dadiOH wrote:
>> Swingman wrote:
>>
>>> I generally cut curved chair rails out on the bandsaw, then have to
>>> sand them by hand to final form, which can be a problem making them
>>> identical
>>
>> Drum sander with a bearing guiding on a template.
>
> Having tried "sanding drum", and home made "offset templates" for an
> oscillating spindle sander, IME they aren't well suited to roughed out
> blanks, as they bring in another set of problems of their own ... less
> precision, marks and flat spots.
>
> A band saw solution for accurate, repeatable template cutting, is what
> is intriguing to me ... a bit of finish sanding is expected ... but that
> is all the _sanding_ I care to ever do if I can help it. :)
>
> I asked because the inside curve in the specific application is somewhat
> of a fly in the ointment for the jig as it is shown in the video ... one
> that calls for some of Brian's brainy adaptation skills with regard to a
> _band saw jig_ ... and his jig acumen in general.
>
> IOW, trying to pick the lad's brain ... :)
>
I'd think complementary convex and concave templates would do it. You
want to have the "keeper" on the template so as not to undercut and
probably do the concave cut first.


--
"Socialism is a philosophy of failure,the creed of ignorance, and the
gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery"
-Winston Churchill

On Sunday, January 20, 2013 3:00:39 PM UTC-5, Swingman wrote:
> On 1/20/2013 1:50 PM, Swingman wrote:
>
> > On 1/20/2013 1:27 PM, Doug Winterburn wrote:
>
> >
>
> >> I'd think complementary convex and concave templates would do it. You
>
> >> want to have the "keeper" on the template so as not to undercut and
>
> >> probably do the concave cut first.
>
> >
>
> > Which would call for a better way to secure jig from moving forward and
>
> > back than the magnetic feather boards, which would appear to get in the
>
> > way of an inside curve/concave cut.
>
>
>
> A triangular shaped jig, with business end at the apex and the base
>
> having two points that could be secured in the miter slot, instead of one?

Ha! I like that idea. A split miter bar that could be expanded from above to lock it in place perhaps. Hmmmmm.

>
>
>
> --
>
> eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
>
> Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
>
> https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
>
> http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
>
> KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On Sunday, January 20, 2013 3:40:44 PM UTC-5, Larry Jaques wrote:
> On Sat, 19 Jan 2013 20:26:32 -0800 (PST), [email protected]
>=20
> wrote:
>=20
>=20
>=20
> >Let me know your thoughts on this:
>=20
> >
>=20
> >http://www.garagewoodworks.com/video.php?video=3D70
>=20
>=20
>=20
> I like your new intro much better, you two.

Thank you. I get the feeling people don't appreciate sitting through a lon=
g intro each time and skip it anyway. So I chopped it down to about 4 seco=
nds. It's a sorta rip-off of the 'Rough-Cut' intro. Instead of a hand-pla=
ne creating the letters I have a router. =20


>=20
>=20
>=20
> Nice little project, too. Kudos, sir.
>=20
>=20
>=20
> --
>=20
> The problem with borrowing money from China is
>=20
> that thirty minutes later, you feel broke again.
>=20
> --Steve Bridges as Obama

On 1/19/2013 10:26 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> Let me know your thoughts on this:
>
> http://www.garagewoodworks.com/video.php?video=70

Well done, Brian. I do a good deal of pattern routing of curves in
rails, trim following curves, chair legs, etc., and occasionally have
problems with grain direction and figure that can ruin a piece of stock
very quickly when routing to a pattern ... often when lea$t expected.

This looks like an easily effected solution for those situations.

I also like the idea that it allows my tapering jig, similar to the one
you are using, to do double duty ... half way there already to a working
solution. :)

And, as long as you're using a bandsaw to rough cut the parts before
pattern routing, you might has well cut out that last, sometimes
problematic, routing step altogether.

This will be very useful for my purposes, IMO.

Thanks!

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 1/20/2013 1:50 PM, Swingman wrote:
> On 1/20/2013 1:27 PM, Doug Winterburn wrote:
>
>> I'd think complementary convex and concave templates would do it. You
>> want to have the "keeper" on the template so as not to undercut and
>> probably do the concave cut first.
>
> Which would call for a better way to secure jig from moving forward and
> back than the magnetic feather boards, which would appear to get in the
> way of an inside curve/concave cut.

A triangular shaped jig, with business end at the apex and the base
having two points that could be secured in the miter slot, instead of one?

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 1/21/2013 9:23 AM, Swingman wrote:
> On 1/21/2013 8:45 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
>
>> template to ride on? If the template is masonite or mdf, won't it tend
>> to wear?
>>
>> Second, I'm wondering why you made the jig so narrow. I find myself
>> thinking that a triangle - lets say equilateral - with two slots in it
>> to attach to the runner underneath, could hold the jig steady without
>> the need for the featherboards. The sides of the jig could conceivably
>> get in the way of a very convex workpiece, but so would the
>> featherboards. Using stout enough material, the jig could even be
>> tee-shaped.
>
> Using the same train of thought above, and Brian's inspiration, I pretty
> well designed one in my head last night ... either an equilateral or
> isosceles triangular shaped jig; with two feather board type miter slot
> mechanisms (as shown in the link below) at the base of said triangle;
> and a metal insert for the template for the blade/business end of the jig.
>
> I've already got a couple of these laying around from old feather boards
> ... two of them toward the corners of the base of a triangle and that
> sucker would have NO movement whatsoever:
>
> https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopJustStuff#5835920984748838850
>
>


That is exactly what I have and was referring to. If it fits the slot
loosely add masking tape to one side, it will stay put and or last a
very long time.

On 1/20/2013 9:45 AM, [email protected] wrote:
> As I'm sure you are aware, it's not going to leave as smooth a cut as a router, but as you mentioned, there are advantages to this method over a router. It can also handle thicker pieces that most pattern bits would not be able to handle.

What about an adaptation/design for doing this:

I generally cut curved chair rails out on the bandsaw, then have to sand
them by hand to final form, which can be a problem making them identical
... and, when there is jig of some type in the following production
steps, like drilling angled mortises in the CBR's, _identical_ is of
utmost importance.

https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopMissionBarStool#5819638318036909666

https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopMissionBarStool#5819638374010507218

https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopMissionBarStool#5820039893552073442

https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopMissionBarStool#5820076950437630034

Possibly make it more like a pin router setup?

Just thinking out loud ...

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 1/20/2013 6:19 PM, Leon wrote:
> On 1/20/2013 5:16 PM, Swingman wrote:

>> There is little in the physical world more resistant to forces than
>> three symmetrical points, joined linearly on the circumference of a
>> circle, resulting a rigid frame... a fundamental engineering
>> principle. :)
>
> What about DuctDuck Tape?

Yep ... and, according to the Internet, a triangle made of duct tape is
more powerful than Stephen Hawking's mind.

Uh, bwan Jyour ...

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 1/19/2013 11:26 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> Let me know your thoughts on this:
>
> http://www.garagewoodworks.com/video.php?video=70

Got my viewer going. Ingenious. One problem for me--my Griz only has
one miter slot and it is on the out side of the table. To be workable
the jig would have to be fastened to the table with bolts. Doable, but
not simple. Clamps might work if there were no obstructions on the
underside of the table.

--
G.W.Ross

There never was a good war or a bad
peace. -- Franklin

On 1/20/2013 3:52 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Sunday, January 20, 2013 3:57:59 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
>> On 1/20/2013 1:50 PM, Swingman wrote:
>>
>>> On 1/20/2013 1:27 PM, Doug Winterburn wrote:
>>
>>>
>>
>>>> I'd think complementary convex and concave templates would do it. You
>>
>>>> want to have the "keeper" on the template so as not to undercut and
>>
>>>> probably do the concave cut first.
>>
>>>
>>
>>> Which would call for a better way to secure jig from moving forward and
>>
>>> back than the magnetic feather boards, which would appear to get in the
>>
>>> way of an inside curve/concave cut.
>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Simple solution, Split the rail that fits in the miter slot and use a
>>
>> flat top/counter sing washer in that rail. As you tighten the top knob
>>
>> the screw expands the split rail and the rail tightens in the slot.
>>
>>
>>
>> I have a feather board that uses that method of staying put in the miter
>>
>> slot.
>
> I just posted the same solution. I really should read all the replies first.
>

LOL. Oh heck no. Post ASAP, the information is vital! There is the
possibility you or I may not have been beat to the punch.

On 1/19/2013 11:26 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> Let me know your thoughts on this:
>
> http://www.garagewoodworks.com/video.php?video=70
Could only see the opening screen (router writing Garage Woodworks).
Probably my setup as I have a new computer. Yuck!

--
G.W.Ross

There never was a good war or a bad
peace. -- Franklin

[email protected] wrote in news:e69f266b-6970-4596-bce3-
[email protected]:

> Let me know your thoughts on this:
>
> http://www.garagewoodworks.com/video.php?video=70

Neat!!

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

On 1/20/2013 1:50 PM, Swingman wrote:
> On 1/20/2013 1:27 PM, Doug Winterburn wrote:
>
>> I'd think complementary convex and concave templates would do it. You
>> want to have the "keeper" on the template so as not to undercut and
>> probably do the concave cut first.
>
> Which would call for a better way to secure jig from moving forward and
> back than the magnetic feather boards, which would appear to get in the
> way of an inside curve/concave cut.
>


Simple solution, Split the rail that fits in the miter slot and use a
flat top/counter sing washer in that rail. As you tighten the top knob
the screw expands the split rail and the rail tightens in the slot.

I have a feather board that uses that method of staying put in the miter
slot.

On Sunday, January 20, 2013 10:49:17 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
> On 1/19/2013 10:26 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>
> > Let me know your thoughts on this:
>
> >
>
> > http://www.garagewoodworks.com/video.php?video=70
>
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> Well thought Brian!

Thanks Leon.

On Sunday, January 20, 2013 10:34:35 AM UTC-5, Swingman wrote:
> On 1/19/2013 10:26 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>
> > Let me know your thoughts on this:
>
> >
>
> > http://www.garagewoodworks.com/video.php?video=70
>
>
>
> Well done, Brian. I do a good deal of pattern routing of curves in
>
> rails, trim following curves, chair legs, etc., and occasionally have
>
> problems with grain direction and figure that can ruin a piece of stock
>
> very quickly when routing to a pattern ... often when lea$t expected.
>
>
>
> This looks like an easily effected solution for those situations.
>
>
>
> I also like the idea that it allows my tapering jig, similar to the one
>
> you are using, to do double duty ... half way there already to a working
>
> solution. :)
>
>
>
> And, as long as you're using a bandsaw to rough cut the parts before
>
> pattern routing, you might has well cut out that last, sometimes
>
> problematic, routing step altogether.
>
>
>
> This will be very useful for my purposes, IMO.


I got the idea from a book I have and added the tapering jig to make the operation easier. I was surprised how well it works. I thought the blade might have a tendency to move out of the notch and cut the template, but this didn't happen. Worked great.

As I'm sure you are aware, it's not going to leave as smooth a cut as a router, but as you mentioned, there are advantages to this method over a router. It can also handle thicker pieces that most pattern bits would not be able to handle.



>
>
>
> Thanks!
>
>
>
> --
>
> eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
>
> Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
>
> https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
>
> http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
>
> KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 1/20/2013 2:57 PM, Leon wrote:
> On 1/20/2013 1:50 PM, Swingman wrote:
>> On 1/20/2013 1:27 PM, Doug Winterburn wrote:
>>
>>> I'd think complementary convex and concave templates would do it. You
>>> want to have the "keeper" on the template so as not to undercut and
>>> probably do the concave cut first.
>>
>> Which would call for a better way to secure jig from moving forward and
>> back than the magnetic feather boards, which would appear to get in the
>> way of an inside curve/concave cut.
>>
>
>
> Simple solution, Split the rail that fits in the miter slot and use a
> flat top/counter sing washer in that rail. As you tighten the top knob
> the screw expands the split rail and the rail tightens in the slot.
>
> I have a feather board that uses that method of staying put in the miter
> slot.


Crap, Use a flat top counter sink screw in that rail.

On Sunday, January 20, 2013 11:05:41 AM UTC-5, Swingman wrote:
> On 1/20/2013 9:45 AM, [email protected] wrote:
>
> > As I'm sure you are aware, it's not going to leave as smooth a cut as a router, but as you mentioned, there are advantages to this method over a router. It can also handle thicker pieces that most pattern bits would not be able to handle.
>
>
>
> What about an adaptation/design for doing this:
>
>
>
> I generally cut curved chair rails out on the bandsaw, then have to sand
>
> them by hand to final form, which can be a problem making them identical
>
> ... and, when there is jig of some type in the following production
>
> steps, like drilling angled mortises in the CBR's, _identical_ is of
>
> utmost importance.
>
>
>
> https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopMissionBarStool#5819638318036909666
>
>
>
> https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopMissionBarStool#5819638374010507218
>
>
>
> https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopMissionBarStool#5820039893552073442
>
>
>
> https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopMissionBarStool#5820076950437630034
>
>
>
> Possibly make it more like a pin router setup?
>
>
>
> Just thinking out loud ...
>
>
>
> --
>
> eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
>
> Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
>
> https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
>
> http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
>
> KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

Should work on those rails. Getting it clamped in the tapering jig after one side has already been cut might be a little challenging - but certainly not impossible. Might need toggle clamps w/ a long reach or develop another way to clamp it down.

Not sure how you'd make it more like a pin router (having just looked up what a pin router is). I've not come across those before. Now you've got me thinking how I can make my own pin router. Thanks a lot :)

On 1/20/2013 12:14 PM, dadiOH wrote:
> Swingman wrote:
>
>> I generally cut curved chair rails out on the bandsaw, then have to
>> sand them by hand to final form, which can be a problem making them
>> identical
>
> Drum sander with a bearing guiding on a template.

Having tried "sanding drum", and home made "offset templates" for an
oscillating spindle sander, IME they aren't well suited to roughed out
blanks, as they bring in another set of problems of their own ... less
precision, marks and flat spots.

A band saw solution for accurate, repeatable template cutting, is what
is intriguing to me ... a bit of finish sanding is expected ... but that
is all the _sanding_ I care to ever do if I can help it. :)

I asked because the inside curve in the specific application is somewhat
of a fly in the ointment for the jig as it is shown in the video ... one
that calls for some of Brian's brainy adaptation skills with regard to a
_band saw jig_ ... and his jig acumen in general.

IOW, trying to pick the lad's brain ... :)

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 1/20/2013 3:49 PM, [email protected] wrote:

>> A triangular shaped jig, with business end at the apex and the base
>>
>> having two points that could be secured in the miter slot, instead of one?
>
> Ha! I like that idea. A split miter bar that could be expanded from above to lock it in place perhaps. Hmmmmm.

There is little in the physical world more resistant to forces than
three symmetrical points, joined linearly on the circumference of a
circle, resulting a rigid frame... a fundamental engineering principle. :)


--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 1/20/2013 5:16 PM, Swingman wrote:
> On 1/20/2013 3:49 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>
>>> A triangular shaped jig, with business end at the apex and the base
>>>
>>> having two points that could be secured in the miter slot, instead of
>>> one?
>>
>> Ha! I like that idea. A split miter bar that could be expanded from
>> above to lock it in place perhaps. Hmmmmm.
>
> There is little in the physical world more resistant to forces than
> three symmetrical points, joined linearly on the circumference of a
> circle, resulting a rigid frame... a fundamental engineering principle. :)
>
>


What about DuctDuck Tape?

On 1/21/2013 8:45 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:

> template to ride on? If the template is masonite or mdf, won't it tend
> to wear?
>
> Second, I'm wondering why you made the jig so narrow. I find myself
> thinking that a triangle - lets say equilateral - with two slots in it
> to attach to the runner underneath, could hold the jig steady without
> the need for the featherboards. The sides of the jig could conceivably
> get in the way of a very convex workpiece, but so would the
> featherboards. Using stout enough material, the jig could even be
> tee-shaped.

Using the same train of thought above, and Brian's inspiration, I pretty
well designed one in my head last night ... either an equilateral or
isosceles triangular shaped jig; with two feather board type miter slot
mechanisms (as shown in the link below) at the base of said triangle;
and a metal insert for the template for the blade/business end of the jig.

I've already got a couple of these laying around from old feather boards
... two of them toward the corners of the base of a triangle and that
sucker would have NO movement whatsoever:

https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopJustStuff#5835920984748838850

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On Sun, 20 Jan 2013 07:45:15 -0800 (PST), [email protected]
wrote:

>On Sunday, January 20, 2013 10:34:35 AM UTC-5, Swingman wrote:
>> On 1/19/2013 10:26 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>>
>> > Let me know your thoughts on this:
>>
>> >
>>
>> > http://www.garagewoodworks.com/video.php?video=70
>>
>>
>>
>> Well done, Brian. I do a good deal of pattern routing of curves in
>>
>> rails, trim following curves, chair legs, etc., and occasionally have
>>
>> problems with grain direction and figure that can ruin a piece of stock
>>
>> very quickly when routing to a pattern ... often when lea$t expected.
>>
>>
>>
>> This looks like an easily effected solution for those situations.
>>
>>
>>
>> I also like the idea that it allows my tapering jig, similar to the one
>>
>> you are using, to do double duty ... half way there already to a working
>>
>> solution. :)
>>
>>
>>
>> And, as long as you're using a bandsaw to rough cut the parts before
>>
>> pattern routing, you might has well cut out that last, sometimes
>>
>> problematic, routing step altogether.
>>
>>
>>
>> This will be very useful for my purposes, IMO.
>
>
>I got the idea from a book I have and added the tapering jig to make the operation easier. I was surprised how well it works. I thought the blade might have a tendency to move out of the notch and cut the template, but this didn't happen. Worked great.

Oh, one thing I meant to mention was to lower that upper guide during
cutting, once you know the final height of the workpiece. (Yu already
know it prevents the blade wander.)


>As I'm sure you are aware, it's not going to leave as smooth a cut as a router, but as you mentioned, there are advantages to this method over a router. It can also handle thicker pieces that most pattern bits would not be able to handle.

It's also quite a bit quicker. (Once you have a template.)

--
The problem with borrowing money from China is
that thirty minutes later, you feel broke again.
--Steve Bridges as Obama

Swingman wrote:

> I generally cut curved chair rails out on the bandsaw, then have to
> sand them by hand to final form, which can be a problem making them
> identical

Drum sander with a bearing guiding on a template.


--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

[email protected] wrote:
> Let me know your thoughts on this:
>
> http://www.garagewoodworks.com/video.php?video=70

Handy, good idea.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

On 1/19/2013 11:26 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> Let me know your thoughts on this:
>
> http://www.garagewoodworks.com/video.php?video=70
>
Speaking as someone whose expertise matches the size of his bandsaw
collection, I have a question or two.

First, doesn't plywood make the business end of the jig a little rougher
than optimal for the template to ride on? If the template is masonite or
mdf, won't it tend to wear?

Second, I'm wondering why you made the jig so narrow. I find myself
thinking that a triangle - lets say equilateral - with two slots in it
to attach to the runner underneath, could hold the jig steady without
the need for the featherboards. The sides of the jig could conceivably
get in the way of a very convex workpiece, but so would the
featherboards. Using stout enough material, the jig could even be
tee-shaped.

Continuing further down that train of thought, you could make the jig
nothing but a small circle with a recess for the blade, but glue that
circle to a piece of mdf that would cover the whole table surface. The
mdf could have runners underneath to keep it stable. A setup like that
could allow even more unencumbered cutting.

By the way: If it wasn't abundantly clear, I have no bandsaws, so
calibrate your responses accordingly :)

On 1/21/2013 9:45 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
> On 1/19/2013 11:26 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>> Let me know your thoughts on this:
>>
>> http://www.garagewoodworks.com/video.php?video=70
>>
> Speaking as someone whose expertise matches the size of his bandsaw
> collection, I have a question or two.
>
> First, doesn't plywood make the business end of the jig a little rougher
> than optimal for the template to ride on? If the template is masonite or
> mdf, won't it tend to wear?
>
> Second, I'm wondering why you made the jig so narrow. I find myself
> thinking that a triangle - lets say equilateral - with two slots in it
> to attach to the runner underneath, could hold the jig steady without
> the need for the featherboards. The sides of the jig could conceivably
> get in the way of a very convex workpiece,

Ugh. Of course, that should read "concave" workpiece.

> but so would the
> featherboards. Using stout enough material, the jig could even be
> tee-shaped.
>
> Continuing further down that train of thought, you could make the jig
> nothing but a small circle with a recess for the blade, but glue that
> circle to a piece of mdf that would cover the whole table surface. The
> mdf could have runners underneath to keep it stable. A setup like that
> could allow even more unencumbered cutting.
>
> By the way: If it wasn't abundantly clear, I have no bandsaws, so
> calibrate your responses accordingly :)

On Sat, 19 Jan 2013 20:26:32 -0800 (PST), [email protected]
wrote:

>Let me know your thoughts on this:
>
>http://www.garagewoodworks.com/video.php?video=70

I like your new intro much better, you two.

Nice little project, too. Kudos, sir.

--
The problem with borrowing money from China is
that thirty minutes later, you feel broke again.
--Steve Bridges as Obama

On 1/20/2013 1:27 PM, Doug Winterburn wrote:

> I'd think complementary convex and concave templates would do it. You
> want to have the "keeper" on the template so as not to undercut and
> probably do the concave cut first.

Which would call for a better way to secure jig from moving forward and
back than the magnetic feather boards, which would appear to get in the
way of an inside curve/concave cut.

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 1/19/2013 10:26 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> Let me know your thoughts on this:
>
> http://www.garagewoodworks.com/video.php?video=70
>


Well thought Brian!