RN

"RayV"

19/07/2006 7:32 AM

nickel falls

The bracket that the motor on my contractor saw mounts to was bent.
Called Jet and they replaced it at no cost. So I finally get around to
changing it.

Gosh darn bolt that holds the pin in the cast iron mount breaks off.
Cobalt drill bit snaps off inside the bolt (ever try to drill through a
cobalt bit with HSS bits?). Several hours later bolt is out. Why do
they call thos extractors 'EZ-outs' anyway? There is nothing EZ about
using them.

Anyway all is back together and I took extra care to align the pulleys
and get the motor straight. Still can't get the nickel to stay
standing.

I am currently using a lawnmower type belt instead of an automotive
belt thinking that the softer belt won't hold a hard bend like the auto
belts do. The vibration is not terrible and is greatly improved over
what it was with the bent bracket and years old auto belt. What should
I do?

Go back to an automotive belt?
Get the link style belt and pulleys?
Some other solution?
Quit crying about it and cut some wood?


This topic has 11 replies

JP

"Jay Pique"

in reply to "RayV" on 19/07/2006 7:32 AM

19/07/2006 7:38 AM


RayV wrote:

Question:
> Anyway all is back together and I took extra care to align the pulleys
> and get the motor straight. Still can't get the nickel to stay
> standing. <snip> What should I do?

Answer:
> Quit crying about it and cut some wood...

JP

Td

"Teamcasa"

in reply to "RayV" on 19/07/2006 7:32 AM

19/07/2006 9:12 AM


"RayV"
snip
> Still can't get the nickel to stay standing.
> The vibration is not terrible and is greatly improved over
> what it was with the bent bracket and years old auto belt. What should
> I do?
>
> Quit crying about it and cut some wood?
Yep.

If you use the saw with any regularity, the belt will not be an issue.

Dave



Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services
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Dd

"DAC"

in reply to "RayV" on 19/07/2006 7:32 AM

19/07/2006 1:35 PM


RayV wrote:
> What should I do?

> Get the link style belt and pulleys?

Get the link belt, with machined pulleys. IF I want, I can stand a
dime on edge! (Delta contractors saw).

Get busy cutting some wood already! ;-)

DAC

tt

"tom"

in reply to "RayV" on 19/07/2006 7:32 AM

19/07/2006 1:52 PM

I didn't have a nickel, so I taped 5 pennies together. Worked! Tom(who
can't take credit for that one)
RayV wrote:
> The bracket that the motor on my contractor saw mounts to was bent.
> Called Jet and they replaced it at no cost. So I finally get around to
> changing it.
>
> Gosh darn bolt that holds the pin in the cast iron mount breaks off.
> Cobalt drill bit snaps off inside the bolt (ever try to drill through a
> cobalt bit with HSS bits?). Several hours later bolt is out. Why do
> they call thos extractors 'EZ-outs' anyway? There is nothing EZ about
> using them.
>
> Anyway all is back together and I took extra care to align the pulleys
> and get the motor straight. Still can't get the nickel to stay
> standing.
>
> I am currently using a lawnmower type belt instead of an automotive
> belt thinking that the softer belt won't hold a hard bend like the auto
> belts do. The vibration is not terrible and is greatly improved over
> what it was with the bent bracket and years old auto belt. What should
> I do?
>
> Go back to an automotive belt?
> Get the link style belt and pulleys?
> Some other solution?
> Quit crying about it and cut some wood?

RN

"RayV"

in reply to "RayV" on 19/07/2006 7:32 AM

19/07/2006 6:59 PM


Frank Boettcher wrote:
> On 19 Jul 2006 07:32:17 -0700, "RayV" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >The bracket that the motor on my contractor saw mounts to was bent.
> >Called Jet and they replaced it at no cost. So I finally get around to
> >changing it.
> >
> >Gosh darn bolt that holds the pin in the cast iron mount breaks off.
> >Cobalt drill bit snaps off inside the bolt (ever try to drill through a
> >cobalt bit with HSS bits?). Several hours later bolt is out. Why do
> >they call thos extractors 'EZ-outs' anyway? There is nothing EZ about
> >using them.
> >
> >Anyway all is back together and I took extra care to align the pulleys
> >and get the motor straight. Still can't get the nickel to stay
> >standing.
> >
> >I am currently using a lawnmower type belt instead of an automotive
> >belt thinking that the softer belt won't hold a hard bend like the auto
> >belts do. The vibration is not terrible and is greatly improved over
> >what it was with the bent bracket and years old auto belt. What should
> >I do?
> >
> >Go back to an automotive belt?
> >Get the link style belt and pulleys?
> >Some other solution?
> >Quit crying about it and cut some wood?
>
>
> Unless your hobby is standing up nickels quit crying and cut some
> wood.
>
> However, if your hobby is standing up nickels be advised that some
> v-belts are ground after being cut and others are not. One that is
> ground will produce much less vibration. Jet's OEM belt was probably
> ground. I know the Delta domestic contractors were ground.
>
> If you use your saw infrequently, particularly in the winter, the belt
> will take a set and it will take some run time to get it out. Link
> belt will avoid this but will not give any less vibration than a
> properly sized, ground belt, that is used regularly and does not have
> a set.
>
> Frank

Glad to see most of you think I'm a cry-baby. I didn't know about the
grinding of the belts. I think I'll call Jet and get a new belt from
them.

Dd

"DAC"

in reply to "RayV" on 19/07/2006 7:32 AM

24/07/2006 7:04 AM


Prometheus wrote:
> Why is everyone so concerned about balancing spare change on their
> table saw? Seems like a waste of time and worry to me.

If one sat around and "practiced" this over and over, then yes I'd
agree. When you move from a bumpy standard belt to the smoothness of
the link...well it just one of those thing you have to do. ;-)

DAC

Mk

"MikeMac"

in reply to "RayV" on 19/07/2006 7:32 AM

19/07/2006 10:51 AM

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_000D_01C6AB21.42315E80
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charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I didn't bother replacing my pulleys, but installing the link belt makes =
a world of difference on my Delta 680 TS. (it passed the nickel test for =
me.) So much so, that I put one on my Ridgid bandsaw, as well. =20

Now.. go cut some wood. Its therapeutic. :)

Mike.


"RayV" <[email protected]> wrote in message =
news:[email protected]...
> The bracket that the motor on my contractor saw mounts to was bent.
> Called Jet and they replaced it at no cost. So I finally get around =
to
> changing it.
>=20
> Gosh darn bolt that holds the pin in the cast iron mount breaks off.
> Cobalt drill bit snaps off inside the bolt (ever try to drill through =
a
> cobalt bit with HSS bits?). Several hours later bolt is out. Why do
> they call thos extractors 'EZ-outs' anyway? There is nothing EZ about
> using them.
>=20
> Anyway all is back together and I took extra care to align the pulleys
> and get the motor straight. Still can't get the nickel to stay
> standing.
>=20
> I am currently using a lawnmower type belt instead of an automotive
> belt thinking that the softer belt won't hold a hard bend like the =
auto
> belts do. The vibration is not terrible and is greatly improved over
> what it was with the bent bracket and years old auto belt. What =
should
> I do?
>=20
> Go back to an automotive belt?
> Get the link style belt and pulleys?
> Some other solution?
> Quit crying about it and cut some wood?
>
------=_NextPart_000_000D_01C6AB21.42315E80
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charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2900.2912" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I didn't bother replacing my pulleys, =
but=20
installing the link belt makes a world of difference on my Delta 680 TS. =
(it=20
passed the nickel test for me.) &nbsp; So much so, that I put one on my =
Ridgid=20
bandsaw, as well.&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Now.. go cut some wood.&nbsp; Its =
therapeutic.=20
<STRONG>:)</STRONG></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Mike.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>"RayV" &lt;</FONT><A=20
href=3D"mailto:[email protected]"><FONT face=3DArial=20
size=3D2>[email protected]</FONT></A><FONT face=3DArial =
size=3D2>&gt; wrote in=20
message </FONT><A=20
href=3D"news:[email protected]"><FONT=
=20
face=3DArial=20
size=3D2>news:[email protected]</FONT=
></A><FONT=20
face=3DArial size=3D2>...</FONT></DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>&gt; =
The bracket that=20
the motor on my contractor saw mounts to was bent.<BR>&gt; Called Jet =
and they=20
replaced it at no cost.&nbsp; So I finally get around to<BR>&gt; =
changing=20
it.<BR>&gt; <BR>&gt; Gosh darn bolt that holds the pin in the cast iron =
mount=20
breaks off.<BR>&gt; Cobalt drill bit snaps off inside the bolt (ever try =
to=20
drill through a<BR>&gt; cobalt bit with HSS bits?).&nbsp; Several hours =
later=20
bolt is out.&nbsp; Why do<BR>&gt; they call thos extractors 'EZ-outs'=20
anyway?&nbsp; There is nothing EZ about<BR>&gt; using them.<BR>&gt; =
<BR>&gt;=20
Anyway all is back together and I took extra care to align the =
pulleys<BR>&gt;=20
and get the motor straight.&nbsp; Still can't get the nickel to =
stay<BR>&gt;=20
standing.<BR>&gt; <BR>&gt; I am currently using a lawnmower type belt =
instead of=20
an automotive<BR>&gt; belt thinking that the softer belt won't hold a =
hard bend=20
like the auto<BR>&gt; belts do.&nbsp; The vibration is not terrible and =
is=20
greatly improved over<BR>&gt; what it was with the bent bracket and =
years old=20
auto belt.&nbsp; What should<BR>&gt; I do?<BR>&gt; <BR>&gt; Go back to =
an=20
automotive belt?<BR>&gt; Get the link style belt and pulleys?<BR>&gt; =
Some other=20
solution?<BR>&gt; Quit crying about it and cut some=20
wood?<BR>&gt;</FONT></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_000D_01C6AB21.42315E80--

LH

Lew Hodgett

in reply to "RayV" on 19/07/2006 7:32 AM

19/07/2006 3:50 PM

RayV wrote:

<snip>
>
> Go back to an automotive belt?
> Get the link style belt and pulleys?
> Some other solution?
> Quit crying about it and cut some wood?


I like the last one<G>.

Lew

Pn

Prometheus

in reply to "RayV" on 19/07/2006 7:32 AM

20/07/2006 6:48 PM

On 19 Jul 2006 07:32:17 -0700, "RayV" <[email protected]> wrote:

>The bracket that the motor on my contractor saw mounts to was bent.
>Called Jet and they replaced it at no cost. So I finally get around to
>changing it.
>
>Gosh darn bolt that holds the pin in the cast iron mount breaks off.
>Cobalt drill bit snaps off inside the bolt (ever try to drill through a
>cobalt bit with HSS bits?). Several hours later bolt is out. Why do
>they call thos extractors 'EZ-outs' anyway? There is nothing EZ about
>using them.
>
>Anyway all is back together and I took extra care to align the pulleys
>and get the motor straight. Still can't get the nickel to stay
>standing.
>
>I am currently using a lawnmower type belt instead of an automotive
>belt thinking that the softer belt won't hold a hard bend like the auto
>belts do. The vibration is not terrible and is greatly improved over
>what it was with the bent bracket and years old auto belt. What should
>I do?

__________________________________________
>Quit crying about it and cut some wood?
__________________________________________

Bingo.

Why is everyone so concerned about balancing spare change on their
table saw? Seems like a waste of time and worry to me.

FB

Frank Boettcher

in reply to "RayV" on 19/07/2006 7:32 AM

19/07/2006 2:40 PM

On 19 Jul 2006 07:32:17 -0700, "RayV" <[email protected]> wrote:

>The bracket that the motor on my contractor saw mounts to was bent.
>Called Jet and they replaced it at no cost. So I finally get around to
>changing it.
>
>Gosh darn bolt that holds the pin in the cast iron mount breaks off.
>Cobalt drill bit snaps off inside the bolt (ever try to drill through a
>cobalt bit with HSS bits?). Several hours later bolt is out. Why do
>they call thos extractors 'EZ-outs' anyway? There is nothing EZ about
>using them.
>
>Anyway all is back together and I took extra care to align the pulleys
>and get the motor straight. Still can't get the nickel to stay
>standing.
>
>I am currently using a lawnmower type belt instead of an automotive
>belt thinking that the softer belt won't hold a hard bend like the auto
>belts do. The vibration is not terrible and is greatly improved over
>what it was with the bent bracket and years old auto belt. What should
>I do?
>
>Go back to an automotive belt?
>Get the link style belt and pulleys?
>Some other solution?
>Quit crying about it and cut some wood?


Unless your hobby is standing up nickels quit crying and cut some
wood.

However, if your hobby is standing up nickels be advised that some
v-belts are ground after being cut and others are not. One that is
ground will produce much less vibration. Jet's OEM belt was probably
ground. I know the Delta domestic contractors were ground.

If you use your saw infrequently, particularly in the winter, the belt
will take a set and it will take some run time to get it out. Link
belt will avoid this but will not give any less vibration than a
properly sized, ground belt, that is used regularly and does not have
a set.

Frank

ZY

Zz Yzx

in reply to "RayV" on 19/07/2006 7:32 AM

19/07/2006 5:56 PM

My 1982-vintage Crapsman wouldn't pass the nickel test with the nickel
laying flat to start with. The link belts and aftermarket pulleys
worked wonders.

-Zz

On 19 Jul 2006 07:32:17 -0700, "RayV" <[email protected]> wrote:

>The bracket that the motor on my contractor saw mounts to was bent.
>Called Jet and they replaced it at no cost. So I finally get around to
>changing it.
>
>Gosh darn bolt that holds the pin in the cast iron mount breaks off.
>Cobalt drill bit snaps off inside the bolt (ever try to drill through a
>cobalt bit with HSS bits?). Several hours later bolt is out. Why do
>they call thos extractors 'EZ-outs' anyway? There is nothing EZ about
>using them.
>
>Anyway all is back together and I took extra care to align the pulleys
>and get the motor straight. Still can't get the nickel to stay
>standing.
>
>I am currently using a lawnmower type belt instead of an automotive
>belt thinking that the softer belt won't hold a hard bend like the auto
>belts do. The vibration is not terrible and is greatly improved over
>what it was with the bent bracket and years old auto belt. What should
>I do?
>
>Go back to an automotive belt?
>Get the link style belt and pulleys?
>Some other solution?
>Quit crying about it and cut some wood?


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