I have an old Craftsman 10 inch contractor tablesaw which I want to hook up to
my PennState Dust collector 1250CMF. I have a large plastic 4" collector pan
that will sit under the saw to collect dust. Do I need to block off air entry
into the open back of the saw? I imagine it will not work unless I do. What say
you?
"Bill B" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> I put the Ridgid dust collector on the bottom,
Does Ridgid make a dust collector specifically for the 3650 contractor
saw? DId you get it from HD, or where?
I put the Ridgid dust collector on the bottom, which just closes the bottom
of the saw cabinet, the back is wide open and it collects about 99% of the
dust. Look on your floor and I bet you will notice that very little dust
goes out the back now. Run the blade a tad high, I was taught years ago to
have the teeth hitting the wood at about 45 degrees, and there is very
little thrown forward of the top of the wood. If I set it to where the
blade just clears the wood there is considerably more thrown forward.
"RMeyer1" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I have an old Craftsman 10 inch contractor tablesaw which I want to hook up
>to
> my PennState Dust collector 1250CMF. I have a large plastic 4" collector
> pan
> that will sit under the saw to collect dust. Do I need to block off air
> entry
> into the open back of the saw? I imagine it will not work unless I do.
> What say
> you?
"Dan" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> But in my opinion just putting a dust collection hood underneath the saw
> will take care of 98% of your dust, as long as you've got something
> stronger than a shop vac on it.
On my saw, much more than 2% of the dust is on the top of the saw, since I
started using zero clearance inserts. In fact, I would say that 25-50% of
the dust is above the table. I built a separate pickup to handle that.
Bob
The shop teacher, high school, many, many years ago, insisted that having
the blade high reduced kickbacks as his claim was the teeth were moving at a
more downwards angle when they hit the wood, instead of trying to push the
wood back at you. It's always worked for me.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> aah, interesting point
>
> some say to keep the blade "just above" the surface as a safety
> precaution; but this pt of view is interesting..
>
>
> On Mon, 29 Nov 2004 07:38:43 -0700, "Bill B"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>I put the Ridgid dust collector on the bottom, which just closes the
>>bottom
>>of the saw cabinet, the back is wide open and it collects about 99% of the
>>dust. Look on your floor and I bet you will notice that very little dust
>>goes out the back now. Run the blade a tad high, I was taught years ago
>>to
>>have the teeth hitting the wood at about 45 degrees, and there is very
>>little thrown forward of the top of the wood. If I set it to where the
>>blade just clears the wood there is considerably more thrown forward.
>>
>>"RMeyer1" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>news:[email protected]...
>>>I have an old Craftsman 10 inch contractor tablesaw which I want to hook
>>>up
>>>to
>>> my PennState Dust collector 1250CMF. I have a large plastic 4" collector
>>> pan
>>> that will sit under the saw to collect dust. Do I need to block off air
>>> entry
>>> into the open back of the saw? I imagine it will not work unless I do.
>>> What say
>>> you?
>>
>
I have been pondering the same problem for a year now, and have decided to
do nothing.
Table saw dust is heavy enough that it just falls to the floor without
creating too much mess, so I don't think it is worth the effort. You will
have to get the saw almost airtight to be effective, and even then 75% will
be thrown forward by the blade. The only real solution is a over the blade
hood, and I can't justify that.
"toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I have been pondering the same problem for a year now, and have decided to
>do nothing.
> Table saw dust is heavy enough that it just falls to the floor without
> creating too much mess, so I don't think it is worth the effort. You will
> have to get the saw almost airtight to be effective, and even then 75%
> will be thrown forward by the blade. The only real solution is a over the
> blade hood, and I can't justify that.
Try it and you may be surprised. No, you don't want the saw airtight. If it
was, how would the DC get enough air to draw the dust? Yes, an over the
blade hood would be nice too, but I only clean up under my saw maybe every
two or three months now.
It's just a generic plastic pan that should fit most any saw. At HD.
"Tim" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Bill B" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:<[email protected]>...
>> I put the Ridgid dust collector on the bottom,
>
> Does Ridgid make a dust collector specifically for the 3650 contractor
> saw? DId you get it from HD, or where?
On Sun 28 Nov 2004 08:13:55p, "Greg O" <[email protected]> wrote
in news:[email protected]:
> I have a Delta CS, and the 2 HP Horrible frieght dust collector. I
> have tried it both ways using a 4" hose and decided there was not a
> noticable differance.
> A overarm collector in addition to the under the table collection
> would be best.
> Greg
>
I have the same dc on a Griz 1022. The standard tablesaw dust hood i got
with a kit was too small so I made a plate out of some scrap wall
paneling that would accept it, ductaped the whole thing to the underside
of the saw, and taped a flexible 4'' metal dryer hose to it and taped the
other end to the saw frame. The DC hose fits over that. First I tried it
without blocking off anything on the saw.
It worked so well I didn't bother blocking anything else off. There's a
solid, feelable airflow into the saw from every opening. Above the zero
clearance insert, there's some dust. Everything I read says I won't be
able to suck it all in from the bottom. First project of spring will be
an overarm guard with dust collection. Maybe then I'll also block off
some of that big space at the motor. But like the guy said, if you block
it ALL off, it won't suck.
But in my opinion just putting a dust collection hood underneath the saw
will take care of 98% of your dust, as long as you've got something
stronger than a shop vac on it. Then you can work on upping your effect.
:-)
On Mon 29 Nov 2004 12:04:25a, "Bob" <[email protected]>
wrote in news:[email protected]:
> On my saw, much more than 2% of the dust is on the top of the saw,
> since I started using zero clearance inserts. In fact, I would say
> that 25-50% of the dust is above the table. I built a separate pickup
> to handle that.
Wow. I guess I should have qualified it a bit. :-)
But I really don't get much dust up there, except when I'm actually shaving
less than a bladewidth off a piece.
Wonder what the difference is. Blade, maybe? I'm using a Forrest or a
Freud. Or maybe I'm getting more suction off that HFDC than I thought.
On Sun 28 Nov 2004 09:44:50p, "Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> Try it and you may be surprised. No, you don't want the saw airtight.
> If it was, how would the DC get enough air to draw the dust? Yes, an
> over the blade hood would be nice too, but I only clean up under my
> saw maybe every two or three months now.
What struck me most was that the dust cloud was gone. I was going to just
get one of those canvas bag things when simultaneously I had an extra
hundred bucks and Harbor Freight had that DC on sale. With the bag, I think
there'd still be a hanging cloud of dust around the saw, but with the DC,
it's just gone. I can feel the difference when I start a cut and forget to
turn on the DC. Hey, what's all this dust... Oh. Walk over to DC. Click.
There we go.
After the overarm guard, a long ranger might be nice...
"toller" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> I have been pondering the same problem for a year now, and have
> decided to do nothing.
> Table saw dust is heavy enough that it just falls to the floor without
> creating too much mess, so I don't think it is worth the effort. You
> will have to get the saw almost airtight to be effective, and even
> then 75% will be thrown forward by the blade. The only real solution
> is a over the blade hood, and I can't justify that.
>
>
Has any one tried running a air blower to blow chips out of the blade
under the saw? One of those hard plastic flex hoses clamped to a
trunion rail would ride up and down and tilt with the blade.
Pentz site mentions moving dust is easy compared to sucking it, so if
you had your under saw collector, closed off the saw well and used the
compressed air to blow the gullets clean maybe there would be no dust on
the top of the saw.
Alan
aah, interesting point
some say to keep the blade "just above" the surface as a safety
precaution; but this pt of view is interesting..
On Mon, 29 Nov 2004 07:38:43 -0700, "Bill B"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I put the Ridgid dust collector on the bottom, which just closes the bottom
>of the saw cabinet, the back is wide open and it collects about 99% of the
>dust. Look on your floor and I bet you will notice that very little dust
>goes out the back now. Run the blade a tad high, I was taught years ago to
>have the teeth hitting the wood at about 45 degrees, and there is very
>little thrown forward of the top of the wood. If I set it to where the
>blade just clears the wood there is considerably more thrown forward.
>
>"RMeyer1" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>>I have an old Craftsman 10 inch contractor tablesaw which I want to hook up
>>to
>> my PennState Dust collector 1250CMF. I have a large plastic 4" collector
>> pan
>> that will sit under the saw to collect dust. Do I need to block off air
>> entry
>> into the open back of the saw? I imagine it will not work unless I do.
>> What say
>> you?
>
Have read Mehler's book and also talked w/ him in person at the WW
shows. Yeah, put some kind of splitter in there. Mine is real
simple. I just took a piece of metal, dilled a hole, but a slot and
use the screw that held the blade guard to hold this "splitte". It
sits pretty far back from the blade (more than the 1/4" recommended),
but it's better than nothing, and once the stock passes by it, it's
pretty good at keeping the stock off the back teeth. Actually, by
raising my blade, I can get the blade closer to my splitter ;-)
I guess we could take some styrofoam and test KB with a high vs low
blade??
I still am curious about the DC impacts. Seems to me a higher blade
would throw dust down and into the saw box. The cutting action would
be nearly straight down, wheras a low blade is going to be more
towards the operator. With a high blade, the dust would have to stay
in the gullets all around the blade and get ejected one the teeth
emerge from the saw.
Hmm... next time out, we'll run some experiments.
On Tue, 30 Nov 2004 10:55:41 -0800, "Brett A. Thomas" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>mac davis wrote:
>> On Tue, 30 Nov 2004 00:02:10 -0700,
>> [email protected] wrote:
>>
>> logic (not usually applied to my thoughts) would say that a higher
>> blade that had more teeth moving downwards in front would also have
>> more teeth moving UP in back, right?
>
>I *think* the logic is that, with the blade at just above the level of
>the wood, if you "hook" the wood on the back just a little - enough to
>lift it like 1/4" - the wood will lift into the horizontally-moving part
>of the blade, which will throw the wood at you. If the blade is all the
>way up, lifting the piece off the table a little bit won't cause a kickback.
>
>I'm not saying I *buy* that, I'm just explaining the reasoning. :)
>
>I always liked Kelly Mehler's line on it, which I mentioned the last
>time I participated in this thread, in May, 2002 - thread here:
>
>http://groups.google.com/groups?hl=en&lr=&c2coff=1&frame=right&th=a2473f838f304ad&seekm=3cdc3a1e%240%241889%40news.denver1.Level3.net#link1
>
>Mehler's line answers the qeustion "How high above my workpiece should
>the sawblade be?" with "How much do you want to cut into your fingers?"
>
>Of course, that's kind of a cute answer for him, since if you're
>following his advice, you're using a splitter and a guard, and neither
>kickback nor touching your blade should be much of a risk for you. The
>most compelling answer I've heard for running the blade high is that
>it's supposed to run cooler. In the thread I reference above one poster
>claims that the instructions with his Forrest blade said to run it at
>full height - I don't recall that with mine, but it's been years since I
>read the instructions - if I ever did ;). I usually shoot for having
>the teeth completely clear the workpiece, but I certainly don't know
>better than anyone else - and probably worse than many.
>
>-BAT
sounds good to me ;-)
I can see the argument about having the blade 1/16" above the stock
and more of the force being horizontal rather than vertical. Makes
sense. The cutting would seem to be occuring at a different angle
than if the blade was 1/2" or more above. I've seen WW show demos
where they lift the blade a bit; to presumably get a better cut.
Seems to me we have an interesting theory on our hands. Cut quality
vs safety vs dust expelsion.
On Tue, 30 Nov 2004 00:02:10 -0700,
[email protected] wrote:
logic (not usually applied to my thoughts) would say that a higher
blade that had more teeth moving downwards in front would also have
more teeth moving UP in back, right?
>Not sure I'd buy this argument for kickback. KB is when the wood
>binds at the rear of the blade and is lifted, turned slightly, and
>then projected out over the top of the blade. Whether it's high or
>low seems to me it's going to KB if the back end of the piece gets
>into the line of the blade. High, to me, might even be worse.
>
>
>On Mon, 29 Nov 2004 19:34:35 -0700, "Bill B"
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>The shop teacher, high school, many, many years ago, insisted that having
>>the blade high reduced kickbacks as his claim was the teeth were moving at a
>>more downwards angle when they hit the wood, instead of trying to push the
>>wood back at you. It's always worked for me.
>>
>><[email protected]> wrote in message
>>news:[email protected]...
>>> aah, interesting point
>>>
>>> some say to keep the blade "just above" the surface as a safety
>>> precaution; but this pt of view is interesting..
>>>
>>>
>>> On Mon, 29 Nov 2004 07:38:43 -0700, "Bill B"
>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>>I put the Ridgid dust collector on the bottom, which just closes the
>>>>bottom
>>>>of the saw cabinet, the back is wide open and it collects about 99% of the
>>>>dust. Look on your floor and I bet you will notice that very little dust
>>>>goes out the back now. Run the blade a tad high, I was taught years ago
>>>>to
>>>>have the teeth hitting the wood at about 45 degrees, and there is very
>>>>little thrown forward of the top of the wood. If I set it to where the
>>>>blade just clears the wood there is considerably more thrown forward.
>>>>
>>>>"RMeyer1" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>>news:[email protected]...
>>>>>I have an old Craftsman 10 inch contractor tablesaw which I want to hook
>>>>>up
>>>>>to
>>>>> my PennState Dust collector 1250CMF. I have a large plastic 4" collector
>>>>> pan
>>>>> that will sit under the saw to collect dust. Do I need to block off air
>>>>> entry
>>>>> into the open back of the saw? I imagine it will not work unless I do.
>>>>> What say
>>>>> you?
>>>>
>>>
>>
On Mon, 29 Nov 2004 00:44:12 +0000, RMeyer1 wrote:
> I have an old Craftsman 10 inch contractor tablesaw which I want to hook
> up to my PennState Dust collector 1250CMF. I have a large plastic 4"
> collector pan that will sit under the saw to collect dust. Do I need to
> block off air entry into the open back of the saw? I imagine it will not
> work unless I do. What say you?
Yup, and any other openings. This is what duct tape and that foam in a
bottle was made for :-)
-Doug
Not sure I'd buy this argument for kickback. KB is when the wood
binds at the rear of the blade and is lifted, turned slightly, and
then projected out over the top of the blade. Whether it's high or
low seems to me it's going to KB if the back end of the piece gets
into the line of the blade. High, to me, might even be worse.
On Mon, 29 Nov 2004 19:34:35 -0700, "Bill B"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>The shop teacher, high school, many, many years ago, insisted that having
>the blade high reduced kickbacks as his claim was the teeth were moving at a
>more downwards angle when they hit the wood, instead of trying to push the
>wood back at you. It's always worked for me.
>
><[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> aah, interesting point
>>
>> some say to keep the blade "just above" the surface as a safety
>> precaution; but this pt of view is interesting..
>>
>>
>> On Mon, 29 Nov 2004 07:38:43 -0700, "Bill B"
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>>I put the Ridgid dust collector on the bottom, which just closes the
>>>bottom
>>>of the saw cabinet, the back is wide open and it collects about 99% of the
>>>dust. Look on your floor and I bet you will notice that very little dust
>>>goes out the back now. Run the blade a tad high, I was taught years ago
>>>to
>>>have the teeth hitting the wood at about 45 degrees, and there is very
>>>little thrown forward of the top of the wood. If I set it to where the
>>>blade just clears the wood there is considerably more thrown forward.
>>>
>>>"RMeyer1" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>news:[email protected]...
>>>>I have an old Craftsman 10 inch contractor tablesaw which I want to hook
>>>>up
>>>>to
>>>> my PennState Dust collector 1250CMF. I have a large plastic 4" collector
>>>> pan
>>>> that will sit under the saw to collect dust. Do I need to block off air
>>>> entry
>>>> into the open back of the saw? I imagine it will not work unless I do.
>>>> What say
>>>> you?
>>>
>>
>
On Tue, 30 Nov 2004 21:29:46 GMT, A Womack <[email protected]>
wrote:
>"toller" <[email protected]> wrote in
>news:[email protected]:
>
>> I have been pondering the same problem for a year now, and have
>> decided to do nothing.
>> Table saw dust is heavy enough that it just falls to the floor without
>> creating too much mess, so I don't think it is worth the effort. You
>> will have to get the saw almost airtight to be effective, and even
>> then 75% will be thrown forward by the blade. The only real solution
>> is a over the blade hood, and I can't justify that.
>>
>>
>
>Has any one tried running a air blower to blow chips out of the blade
>under the saw? One of those hard plastic flex hoses clamped to a
>trunion rail would ride up and down and tilt with the blade.
>
>Pentz site mentions moving dust is easy compared to sucking it, so if
>you had your under saw collector, closed off the saw well and used the
>compressed air to blow the gullets clean maybe there would be no dust on
>the top of the saw.
>
>Alan
this is worth pursuing.
"RMeyer1" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I have an old Craftsman 10 inch contractor tablesaw which I want to hook up
>to
> my PennState Dust collector 1250CMF. I have a large plastic 4" collector
> pan
> that will sit under the saw to collect dust. Do I need to block off air
> entry
> into the open back of the saw? I imagine it will not work unless I do.
> What say
> you?
You can partially block the back. On my Delta, I cut a piece of `1/4"
plywood and made notches for the belt and motor bracket. It is leld on with
a couple of screws and four rare earth magnets. The top couple of inches is
open.
While you want to block off some of the openings, you still need air flow
for the DC to suck anything through it.
RMeyer1 wrote:
> I have an old Craftsman 10 inch contractor tablesaw which I want to hook up to
> my PennState Dust collector 1250CMF. I have a large plastic 4" collector pan
> that will sit under the saw to collect dust. Do I need to block off air entry
> into the open back of the saw? I imagine it will not work unless I do. What
> say you?
I have a similar situation: a Ridgid contractor's saw and a Penn State DC.
Blocking it off will make it more effective but what is really the cat's meow is
to add an overhead guard. I've got Penn State's version but Excalibur makes one
also. You would not believe how little gets away now. If I had done this
earlier, I could have saved the money of an air cleaner (which is hanging from
the ceiling and is seldom needed).
If you don't have a cyclone yet be sure to add one. For the relatively few
bucks it costs, you'll save your impellor blades on the DC from wood chips.
--
Mortimer Schnerd, RN
[email protected]
mac davis wrote:
> On Tue, 30 Nov 2004 00:02:10 -0700,
> [email protected] wrote:
>
> logic (not usually applied to my thoughts) would say that a higher
> blade that had more teeth moving downwards in front would also have
> more teeth moving UP in back, right?
I *think* the logic is that, with the blade at just above the level of
the wood, if you "hook" the wood on the back just a little - enough to
lift it like 1/4" - the wood will lift into the horizontally-moving part
of the blade, which will throw the wood at you. If the blade is all the
way up, lifting the piece off the table a little bit won't cause a kickback.
I'm not saying I *buy* that, I'm just explaining the reasoning. :)
I always liked Kelly Mehler's line on it, which I mentioned the last
time I participated in this thread, in May, 2002 - thread here:
http://groups.google.com/groups?hl=en&lr=&c2coff=1&frame=right&th=a2473f838f304ad&seekm=3cdc3a1e%240%241889%40news.denver1.Level3.net#link1
Mehler's line answers the qeustion "How high above my workpiece should
the sawblade be?" with "How much do you want to cut into your fingers?"
Of course, that's kind of a cute answer for him, since if you're
following his advice, you're using a splitter and a guard, and neither
kickback nor touching your blade should be much of a risk for you. The
most compelling answer I've heard for running the blade high is that
it's supposed to run cooler. In the thread I reference above one poster
claims that the instructions with his Forrest blade said to run it at
full height - I don't recall that with mine, but it's been years since I
read the instructions - if I ever did ;). I usually shoot for having
the teeth completely clear the workpiece, but I certainly don't know
better than anyone else - and probably worse than many.
-BAT