Or butt up and run pieces of scrape in front and behind the good wood
John
On Sat, 21 Feb 2004 15:21:29 GMT, Michael Baglio
<mbaglio<NOSPAM>@nc.rr.com> wrote:
>On Sat, 21 Feb 2004 04:25:01 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]>
>wrote:
>
>>It is still good practice to oversize the boards and leave some to trim off
>>the ends. Easy to say, but when you have a 20" hunk of wood and need two 9
>>1/2 inchers, there is little room for error.
>
>Ed, have you tried laying longer pieces of scrap on each side of your
>short workpiece and running the three through together? By the time
>the scrap gets sniped, the good piece is safely through the cutters.
>Ripped-down $3 tubafors are perfect for it, and darned cheap
>insurance.
>
>Michael
I agree with Rumpty, price of doing business. Unless you spend countless
hours on set up every time. If your using a portable planer there are a few
tricks to try.
I have a planer sled that I have had success with for some pieces but that
only works once in a while. Rest of the time I know I have "X" amount of
waste
in any job and don't fret about it. Lifes to short to nit-pic some waste.
EJ
"UTRECHT" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Im getting snipe on both ends of my boards. I can lessen the snipe on
> the back end if I lift up on the board as it comes out of the planer.
> Does this mean my tables are too low? Too High? Or am I just a
> moron? Ive tried everything.
"Unisaw A100" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> Piss on them and chuck them in the garden compost.
Bbut, if your diet is high in vegetable oils will it cause spontaneous
combustion? If you have sawdust in the compost will it cause a dust
explosion? Enquiring minds you know...
And, and, what if there is Yew in the scrap heap - will it smell "pee yew"?
<pauses for breath>
time to go methinks
--
Greg
"Life isn't like a box of chocolates...it's more like a jar of
jalapenos. What you do today, might burn your a** tomorrow."
The planer is the Dewalt. I had a long board and like an idiot I cut
it into numerous 12" lenghths instead of planing the whole board
first. I think the continuous feed idea will fix the problem this
time, but I wish I could get the thing adjusted properly. I tried it
but made it worse. The tables angle up slightly so if the outer tips
are in the same plane with each other and the same plane with the
planer base, there is a slight drop off between the base and tables.
Because of the slight upward slope of the tables, if I put a
straightedge across them, the straightedge doesnt touch the base
unless I apply pressure downward which flexes the tables down
slightly. Am I supposed to raise the tables enough so that they are
in the same plane where the tabls and base meet? Because if so, then
the outer edge of the tables will be higher than the base because they
slope upward (I hope Im describing this correctly). Thanks guys.
UTRECHT wrote...
> Im getting snipe on both ends of my boards. I can lessen the snipe on
> the back end if I lift up on the board as it comes out of the planer.
> Does this mean my tables are too low? Too High?
It means that either the board or the carriage (the part with the
cutter head and rollers) shifts too much when only one roller is in
contact with the work. It can be caused by a number of things, including
the tables being too low, or tilting down away from the cutter head.
> Ive tried everything.
What kind of planer do you have? Does it have a carriage or cutter head
lock, and if so, do you notice any difference when using it?
You can reduce the effect of table adjustments by using an auxiliary bed,
easily made from a piece of melamine.
Jim
Everything?
Can you reduce the downward pressure exerted by the feed rollers?
How old is this unknown planer?
John
UTRECHT wrote:
>Im getting snipe on both ends of my boards. I can lessen the snipe on
>the back end if I lift up on the board as it comes out of the planer.
>Does this mean my tables are too low? Too High? Or am I just a
>moron? Ive tried everything.
>
>
Snipe is a "cost of doing business", plane your boards first then cut to
length.
--
Rumpty
Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
"UTRECHT" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Im getting snipe on both ends of my boards. I can lessen the snipe on
> the back end if I lift up on the board as it comes out of the planer.
> Does this mean my tables are too low? Too High? Or am I just a
> moron? Ive tried everything.
I'd disagree with that. (Unless you own a "sniper" planer; OR don't
know how to prevent snipe by adjustment and feed techniques). One of
the easiest way to prevent snipe is feed one boards in sequentially, but
overlapping a bit so that the planer sees a continuous length of boards.
The only part that could have snipe would be the leading end of the
first board and the trailing end of the last board. As long as the
boards are less than 1/2 the width of the planer that's an option.
I just don't believe that it is a "cost of doing business".
dave
Rumpty wrote:
> Snipe is a "cost of doing business", plane your boards first then cut to
> length.
>
> --
>
> Rumpty
>
> Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start
>
> - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
>
>
> "UTRECHT" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>Im getting snipe on both ends of my boards. I can lessen the snipe on
>>the back end if I lift up on the board as it comes out of the planer.
>>Does this mean my tables are too low? Too High? Or am I just a
>>moron? Ive tried everything.
>
>
>
"Michael Baglio @nc.rr.com>" <mbaglio<NOSPAM> wrote in message
>
> Ed, have you tried laying longer pieces of scrap on each side of your
> short workpiece and running the three through together? By the time
> the scrap gets sniped, the good piece is safely through the cutters.
> Ripped-down $3 tubafors are perfect for it, and darned cheap
> insurance.
>
> Michael
I've often run pieces butted end to end, but never thought about the scrap
idea. I'll have to give it a try.
Ed
I agree with you that is another great way of preventing snip Dave.
"Bay Area Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'd disagree with that. (Unless you own a "sniper" planer; OR don't
> know how to prevent snipe by adjustment and feed techniques). One of
> the easiest way to prevent snipe is feed one boards in sequentially, but
> overlapping a bit so that the planer sees a continuous length of boards.
> The only part that could have snipe would be the leading end of the
> first board and the trailing end of the last board. As long as the
> boards are less than 1/2 the width of the planer that's an option.
>
> I just don't believe that it is a "cost of doing business".
>
> dave
>
> Rumpty wrote:
>
> > Snipe is a "cost of doing business", plane your boards first then cut to
> > length.
> >
> > --
> >
> > Rumpty
> >
> > Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start
> >
> > - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
> >
> >
> > "UTRECHT" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> >
> >>Im getting snipe on both ends of my boards. I can lessen the snipe on
> >>the back end if I lift up on the board as it comes out of the planer.
> >>Does this mean my tables are too low? Too High? Or am I just a
> >>moron? Ive tried everything.
> >
> >
> >
>
On Sun, 22 Feb 2004 00:39:23 GMT, Unisaw A100 <[email protected]>
scribbled:
>Luigi Zanasi wrote:
>>Yabbut then we get yet another thread on what to do with scraps.
>
>
>Piss on them and chuck them in the garden compost.
No, no, no! Pay attention! That's what to do with your *sawdust*, not
your scraps! Scraps take too long to compost. How many times do I have
to repeat it?
I just discovered a use for planer shavings. A friend came over today
to use my planer on a bunch of spruce and pine he cut on his property.
Somebody with a Woodmiser milled it for him and he asked to use my
planer. A soon-to-be grandfather, you will never guess what he will
make with it (the wood, not the planer). That's right, a hope chest
for his daughter.(1)
Anyway, to make a short story even longer, as he was cleaning up, he
asked me if I composted the shavings. I told I put them out for the
city's compost pick-up. He said he could use it as firestarter. I told
him that my experience with planer shavings is that they did not burn
too well. I tried putting them directly on the fire. If you put too
few, they just immediately flare up. Too many, and they just sit these
and smolder until the fire goes out. Then you still have a pile of
(partially burnt) shavings to dispose of. I also tried putting them in
paper grocery bags and then burning the bag in a stove or fireplace,
but the same thing happened.
What he does is to pour diesel fuel or kerosene on the shavings so
that it is absorbed. He keeps it in plastic bags. When he needs to
start a fire in his woodstove, he puts a small quantity of the
shavings in the stove and lights it. Bingo!
Luigi
Replace "nonet" with "yukonomics" for real email address
(1) He had promised her a hope chest many years ago and is finally
getting rountuit. Bill is building a cradle too, as behooves any
grandfather. He is planning to finish it with shellac. When I told him
that it shellac edible as it is made from bug secretions (just like
honey) and that it was used to coat Smarties (M&Ms, Keith), it
reinforced his decision.
On Fri, 20 Feb 2004 21:33:14 -0600, Unisaw A100 <[email protected]>
scribbled:
>Try over sizing your stock in length. Makes all the snipe
>go away.
Yabbut then we get yet another thread on what to do with scraps.
Luigi
Replace "nonet" with "yukonomics" for real email address
Thanks for telling me it ain't something I can control on my Delta 13"
portable which has always sniped the hell out of stuff right out of the box
and no relief after agonizing hours of fooling with leveling screws on the
cheap stamped metal tables. That in spite of the big selling feature about
locking head mechanism.
Not one to give up easily though, so when time permits I'll follow the
instructions for the outfeed roller adjustment. They want a BIG piece of
hardwood and I'll have to check the woodpile for a piece that will give me a
4"x4" chunk to machine to their specs and I'll go from there.
"Eric Johnson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I agree with Rumpty, price of doing business. Unless you spend countless
> hours on set up every time. If your using a portable planer there are a
few
> tricks to try.
> I have a planer sled that I have had success with for some pieces but that
> only works once in a while. Rest of the time I know I have "X" amount of
> waste
> in any job and don't fret about it. Lifes to short to nit-pic some waste.
>
> EJ
>
>
> "UTRECHT" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Im getting snipe on both ends of my boards. I can lessen the snipe on
> > the back end if I lift up on the board as it comes out of the planer.
> > Does this mean my tables are too low? Too High? Or am I just a
> > moron? Ive tried everything.
>
>
Luigi Zanasi wrote:
>No, no, no! Pay attention! That's what to do with your *sawdust*, not
>your scraps! Scraps take too long to compost. How many times do I have
>to repeat it?
This being the Wreck, I'd predict another eleventy billion
(US) times.
mucho snippage...
I also tried the fire starter trick and have come to the
same conclusions. I'm not sure I want to go the kerosene
route but it is stored here on the master hard drive for
future consideration.
>(1) He had promised her a hope chest many years ago and is finally
>getting rountuit. Bill is building a cradle too, as behooves any
>grandfather. He is planning to finish it with shellac. When I told him
>that it shellac edible as it is made from bug secretions (just like
>honey) and that it was used to coat Smarties (M&Ms, Keith), it
>reinforced his decision.
Funny you should be bringing up the whole idea of the hope
chest. My Dad built hope chests/blanket boxes for all the
Grandkids. My own Claire, age nine, came along too late in
Dad's life and didn't get hers. Me being who I and doing
what I do will take care of that. There's also a new
Great-Nephew on board (for the last year and a half) and a
future Grand-(insert sex here) due in the next coupla. I
figure, might as well be carrying on tradition and seeing to
it that they have their hope chest/blanket boxes. Now, for
design, the most recent issue of Fine Wooddorking magazine
has a very sweet looking "Heirloom Tool Chest" that without
the tool inserts would make for a spanky hope chest/blanket
box.
UA100
On Sat, 21 Feb 2004 04:25:01 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>It is still good practice to oversize the boards and leave some to trim off
>the ends. Easy to say, but when you have a 20" hunk of wood and need two 9
>1/2 inchers, there is little room for error.
Ed, have you tried laying longer pieces of scrap on each side of your
short workpiece and running the three through together? By the time
the scrap gets sniped, the good piece is safely through the cutters.
Ripped-down $3 tubafors are perfect for it, and darned cheap
insurance.
Michael
On Sat, 21 Feb 2004 23:16:10 -0800, Luigi Zanasi <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>I just discovered a use for planer shavings.
---snip---
> use it as firestarter. I told
>him that my experience with planer shavings is that they did not burn
>too well. I tried putting them directly on the fire. If you put too
>few, they just immediately flare up. Too many, and they just sit these
>and smolder until the fire goes out. Then you still have a pile of
>(partially burnt) shavings to dispose of. I also tried putting them in
>paper grocery bags and then burning the bag in a stove or fireplace,
>but the same thing happened.
>
>What he does is to pour diesel fuel or kerosene on the shavings so
>that it is absorbed. He keeps it in plastic bags. When he needs to
>start a fire in his woodstove, he puts a small quantity of the
>shavings in the stove and lights it. Bingo!
>
>Luigi
what I have seen done and looks like it would work as well or better,
not smell or present a hazard and be more convenient to boot is:
go to the store and get a whack of wax paper disposable cups- the kind
that are supplied along side the water cooler in office type places.
get also a block of canning wax (parrafin, kieth (not gasoline,
david)).
stuff the cup with the fluffy shavings from the planer and drizzle the
melted wax over it. do a bunch of them at a time. you can store them
with the kindling for your fireplace. you could prolly store it
outside.
anyhow, it burns slowly and steadily, just right for getting a fire
going, it doesn't involve liquid fuels, stores well, yadda yadda....
Bridger
"Tom Kohlman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
...
> Thanks for telling me it ain't something I can control on my Delta 13"
> portable which has always sniped the hell out of stuff right out of the
box
> and no relief after agonizing hours of fooling with leveling screws on the
> cheap stamped metal tables. That in spite of the big selling feature about
> locking head mechanism.
I have that planer and rarely see any snipe. When I do, it is because I did
not support a piece as it exits. What length boards are you putting
through? The loner ones are in need of support. When I do some short ones
(say 18" or less), I have never seen any snipe.
It is still good practice to oversize the boards and leave some to trim off
the ends. Easy to say, but when you have a 20" hunk of wood and need two 9
1/2 inchers, there is little room for error.
Ed
[email protected]
http://pages.cthome.net/edhome
Snipe is caused by improperly adjusted infeed and or out feed roller
height and / or pressure. Start by adjusting the bed rollers just a hair
above the planer bed. Use a good straight edge to run between the infeed and
out feed rollers on the bed to about 0.001" to 0.003" above the bed. Make
sure it is even across all planes of the bed. Then adjust your infeed power
roller so that it grabs the board but it will not slip if you feel the board
kick up on the back side you bed roller is to high. Then adjust your out
feed power roller in the same fashion. Also do use some type of support on
both sides of your planner level with your bed if your stock is any longer
that 48". This should all but eliminate any snipping.
"UTRECHT" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Im getting snipe on both ends of my boards. I can lessen the snipe on
> the back end if I lift up on the board as it comes out of the planer.
> Does this mean my tables are too low? Too High? Or am I just a
> moron? Ive tried everything.
Causes of snipe:
1. Board tilts up/down as it enters/leaves the feed rollers.
2. Cutterhead tilts up/down as wood enters/leaves the feed rollers.
I mounted my planer on a table and added infeed/outfeed rollers, seems
to help somewhat. Greasing the pillars on the head seems to reduce
head tilt a little. Other than that, you'll have to experiment and
see what works for you.
"Groggy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> If you have sawdust in the compost will it cause a dust
> explosion? Enquiring minds you know...
>
Drive a rod into the ground so the compost is grounded and run a bare copper
wire around it. . Just don't pee on the grounding wire during a lightening
storm or it could hurt.