I have a JDS air filter/cleaner which I want to mount in my shop (I also
have a dust collector). There's not a lot of info out there on
positioning, and some of it is contradictory. Grizzly recommends mounting
it diagonally in a squarish shop (which mine is), toward one corner. The
shop may not be big enough to matter, but any advice would be appreciated.
The TS is central. The lathe is perpendicular to the north wall. The BS
and planer and jointer are on casters, and can go anywhere.
One factor I want to be careful about is that (a) the shop is inside the
house, and (b) there is one air return in the shop, directly above the
door, which is in the SE corner. I can't figure out the best arrangement
for positioning the air filter with respect to the air outlet.
Thanks,
Andy Barss
On Mon, 21 Jun 2010 01:19:22 +0000 (UTC), Andrew Barss
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I have a JDS air filter/cleaner which I want to mount in my shop (I also
>have a dust collector). There's not a lot of info out there on
>positioning, and some of it is contradictory. Grizzly recommends mounting
>it diagonally in a squarish shop (which mine is), toward one corner. The
>shop may not be big enough to matter, but any advice would be appreciated.
>
>The TS is central. The lathe is perpendicular to the north wall. The BS
>and planer and jointer are on casters, and can go anywhere.
>
>One factor I want to be careful about is that (a) the shop is inside the
>house, and (b) there is one air return in the shop, directly above the
>door, which is in the SE corner. I can't figure out the best arrangement
>for positioning the air filter with respect to the air outlet.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Andy Barss
I've had mine in a couple of places in the shop.. I find that air flow is key..
Best place for me is with the intake end in the center of the room with the
exhaust end pointed towards which ever wall is farthest from it..
Either end too close to a wall or corner messes with the whole shops airflow..
Keep in mind that you don't want the intake near a machine, that's what the dust
collector is for.. The air filter is for what's airborne..
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
On 6/26/2010 1:41 PM, Lee Michaels wrote:
> "Swingman"<[email protected]> wrote
>>
>> http://www.burrellcustomcarpentry.com/subpage83.html
>>
> That guy has lots of Festools. He really likes them. When are you going to
> pony up and buy more Festools than he has? After all, its a competition,
> right?<G>
LOL ... I'm getting there. If the job requires it I've never balked at
purchasing tools that increase productivity. At this point if Festool
has it and the job requires it, the job is going to pay for it. :)
> He obviously uses the tools. And his comments are relevant to folks who make
> their living with their tools.
Ayup ... and Festool is uncannily designed for on-site accuracy and
increased productivity. I'm seeing more and more trim carpenters with
the tell tale Systainers in the back of pickups and vans.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)
Upscale <[email protected]> wrote:
> I suppose I could also lay a sheet of plywood flat on an table or
> something and use the tracksaw, but not being able to lean over it, I
> wouldn't have the reach to cut 4' across the sheet. At the very least
> with 4x8 wood, I'd be cutting half, going around to the other side and
> pulling the saw the rest of the way. Not all that safe and not great
> for splinter free edges.
If you clamp the festool rail your procedure of "cutting half, going
around to the other side and pulling the saw the rest of the way." will
be perfectly safe (assuming a sufficent overhang of the rail) and will
give you splinter free edges as well.
You will be unable to tell where you started and stopped
However the Mafell Portable Panel Saw System PSS 3100 SE would be
perfect for you though your bank account would feel the pain.
the video is in Russian but it is not a problem.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wa4x0xv1izI&hd=1
http://www.mafelltoolstore.com/pss31se230vo.html
--
>replace spamblock with my family name to e-mail me
>Pics at http://www.meekings.net/diving/index.shtml
>and http://www.meekings.net/photo-groups/nui/index.shtml
On 6/25/2010 10:23 AM, [email protected] wrote:
> I'm planning on buying a OF 1400 (and maybe a TS55 later) this weekend
> and was wondering about dust collection. Can I use my existing dust
> collection stuff (i.e. are the ports "standard")? I *really* don't
> want to buy into festering dust stuff. It might be a deal killer.
AFAIK they are not standard, but there should be adapters that will work.
On the other side of the coin, Leon got us both adapters for the CT22E
to work with the Kreg K3 pocket hole jig ... I just made a couple of
face frames for a cabinet job and repaired a family heirloom table for
someone in the last week or so and that's the first time I've ever used
the Kreg jig with NO sawdust whatsoever, none, zip, nada!
That said, all bets are off as to the effectiveness of Festool 'tool
dust collector ports' with other dust collectors or shop vacs, but they
should work, after a fashion, with the right adapters.
There is a fairly decent "package" discount when buying a DE with a saw,
and the DE works with all other Festool tools.
The beauty of the Festool components is that they are designed to work
together. You plug the Festool into the DE and the dust collection
starts and stops with the tool; plus their variable speed function works
well with various tasks ... like with a sander, where you may have to
cut back on the DE suck so that the sander doesn't get stuck to the
workpiece ... not kidding.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)
"Jerome Meekings" <[email protected]> wrote
>
> However the Mafell Portable Panel Saw System PSS 3100 SE would be
> perfect for you though your bank account would feel the pain.
>
> the video is in Russian but it is not a problem.
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wa4x0xv1izI&hd=1
>
> http://www.mafelltoolstore.com/pss31se230vo.html
>
>
Damn, I am impressed. I like it. It is pricey though. You know it is
expensive when it cost more than a Festool.
I would have to learn some russian and have a 230 volt plug to use the
thing. But it is nice.
Have you seen this thing in action?
"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote
>
> http://www.burrellcustomcarpentry.com/subpage83.html
>
That guy has lots of Festools. He really likes them. When are you going to
pony up and buy more Festools than he has? After all, its a competition,
right? <G>
He obviously uses the tools. And his comments are relevant to folks who make
their living with their tools.
On Thu, 24 Jun 2010 15:28:17 -0500, Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
>Answered this before, and maybe even posted pictures for you(?), but
>yes. cabinet grade plywood is what is routinely cut with my TS75, and up
>until recently with exceptional results an A1 grade stock.
If you did answer for me, then apologies for repeating myself. The
only thing I'd have to decide is if I want to get the TS55 or the
TS75. I'd be using it for sheet goods only and sincerely doubt I'd
need the extra depth cutting capability of the TS75.
The only considering being is the larger saw (weight and handling
difficulties from a sitting position) and the larger blade of the TS75
which would have several more teeth on it giving a slightly smoother
cut.
On Sat, 26 Jun 2010 08:24:19 -0500, Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
>On 6/25/2010 7:43 PM, Mike M wrote:
>
>> Just brought my first Rotex sander and the CT22 home. Looking forward
>> to not having to wear the dual cartridge mask while sanding.
>> Unfortunately the plunge saw was back ordered. I've got a Laguna
>> sliding table and it still looks easier to cut sheet goods with the
>> plunge saw then trying to muscle 3/4" plywood around.
>
>Definitely is for me, particularly when you consider that you can get
>equal accuracy/cut quality with the plunge saw and guide rail.
>
>Since I batch cut cabinet parts, and if I didn't have a table saw, I
>would definitely want the parallel guide system as well.
>
>This appears to be a fair review of that item:
>
>http://www.burrellcustomcarpentry.com/subpage83.html
That is the same model I purchased, and got two of the 55" tracks
which I did bring home. I'll have to take a look at the stops though
as they look handy. Hopefully I'll get the saw in the next week.
Have some home projects to finish up and it will be nice to cut some
pieces right where I'm working without quite as much mess. Thanks for
the link.
Mike M
On Sun, 20 Jun 2010 23:08:08 -0700, mac davis
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Keep in mind that you don't want the intake near a machine, that's what the dust
>collector is for.. The air filter is for what's airborne..
Good point. Shows what I know about air cleaners.
On Jun 25, 3:44=A0pm, Robatoy <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> He also dug up an older Bosch barrel grip Jigsaw, brand new, which I
> drooled on and had to buy. Big ol' motor, cast shoe. The variable
> speed and toolless bit change were new to me (on a Bosch) even though
> the Milwaukee Topgrip had those features, and I liked that saw a lot
> too, but glad to have a Bosch barrel grip again. When a design works,
> don't change.
I didn't see that one coming. I figured you had the Festool jigsaw.
I've had a couple or three Bosch jigsaws over the years, and I liked
them, but I love the Festool. The cut is truer to square than the
Bosch or DW jigsaws I've used, the dust collection is superior, and
the splinter guards work great.
Resistance is futile.
R
On 21 June, 02:25, Upscale <[email protected]> wrote:
> I'd mount it over or near whatever makes the most dust
Dust, not chips.
There's some mileage to putting it near a router table, or workbench,
because that makes fine dust. A table saw makes coarser stuff that
falls by gravity, or is sucked up by the cyclone (most workshops need
a cyclone before a ceiling filter).
Mine's currently near the lathe, because lathe sanding throws a lot of
dust, and it throws it high. I also have a downdraught sanding table
to deal with finishing work at source.
Mostly though, don't put it near the door to the outside, or anywhere
near a draught. No point in trying to clean up the great outdoors.
On Jun 25, 8:21=A0am, Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 6/25/2010 2:01 AM, Upscale wrote:
>
> > Very carefully. I use a wheelchair and have to work with what I've
> > got. Cutting up heavy sheets goods such as a 4x8 sheet of plywood is
> > extremely awkward for me.
>
> Although there will always be the occasional awkward cut, I do think the
> TS55, along with a low, cutting/assembly table, would be a system that
> would make your plywood cutting chores a lot easier for you ... and
> possibly open up a whole new world of enjoyment.
>
> I can verify that, in conjunction with a Festool dust extraction unit
> like the CT22E, there will also be a lot less sawdust to deal with.
>
> Although there will always be some sawdust generated when using any
> circular saw, I would say that the combo effectively removes about 95%
> when used properly.
I'm planning on buying a OF 1400 (and maybe a TS55 later) this weekend
and was wondering about dust collection. Can I use my existing dust
collection stuff (i.e. are the ports "standard")? I *really* don't
want to buy into festering dust stuff. It might be a deal killer.
> One factor I want to be careful about is that (a) the shop is inside the
> house, and (b) there is one air return in the shop, directly above the
> door, which is in the SE corner.
Hello!
Did you say the shop is in the house and the room is included in the
house air system? This seem very problematic. One would think you
would want to isolate you home air system from the shop air. If not, I
would think about adding some additional filtering on the return from
the shop or you are adding fine particulate matter to your whole
house, lungs, kids, lungs, etc.
On Jun 25, 1:19=A0pm, Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
[snipped all kinds of usefulness for brevity's sake]]
>. like with a sander, where you may have to
> cut back on the DE suck so that the sander doesn't get stuck to the
> workpiece ... not kidding.
>
Solid surface guys love that feature. It gives a consistent downward
force which 'breaks' when the pad on the sander tilts and loses 'da
suck'.
Those guys use 'full-on' suck, so the variable suction of the Festool
doesn't get used all that much so you'll see a lot of Fein vacuums in
those types of shops. I have used and liked both. For maximum sander
suck, the Fein Turbo III is hard to beat. Fein sells and adaptor which
will convert the Euro-style connector to a normal one, or back.
On the topic of the Festool TS75, Dave Eisan gave a quote on a 'kit'
yesterday. The Multi Function table DEEEluxe, 108" track, clamps and a
TS75 for the price of a mediocre hybrid table saw.
Nothing to talk about.
He also dug up an older Bosch barrel grip Jigsaw, brand new, which I
drooled on and had to buy. Big ol' motor, cast shoe. The variable
speed and toolless bit change were new to me (on a Bosch) even though
the Milwaukee Topgrip had those features, and I liked that saw a lot
too, but glad to have a Bosch barrel grip again. When a design works,
don't change.
On 6/20/2010 8:19 PM, Andrew Barss wrote:
> I have a JDS air filter/cleaner which I want to mount in my shop (I also
> have a dust collector). There's not a lot of info out there on
> positioning, and some of it is contradictory. Grizzly recommends mounting
> it diagonally in a squarish shop (which mine is), toward one corner. The
> shop may not be big enough to matter, but any advice would be appreciated.
>
> The TS is central. The lathe is perpendicular to the north wall. The BS
> and planer and jointer are on casters, and can go anywhere.
>
> One factor I want to be careful about is that (a) the shop is inside the
> house, and (b) there is one air return in the shop, directly above the
> door, which is in the SE corner. I can't figure out the best arrangement
> for positioning the air filter with respect to the air outlet.
Mine, the same one you have, is mounted 7' up and mid way between my
workbench, where most of the sanding is done, and the miter saw, which
kicks up the most fine dust ... both being about 5 feet apart.
That said, sanding dust is no longer a problem with two Festool sanders
and, Festool CT22e Dust Extractor. :)
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)
On Thu, 24 Jun 2010 20:10:23 -0700, "Lobby Dosser"
>How do you cut sheet goods from a seated position? I'm not constrained to a
>seated position, but I'm also not all that damn stable when standing. AAMOF,
>I was replacing the screen door to the patio a while back and ended up on my
>back with the door on top of me! Not the kind of flailing I want to do
>around the TS.
Very carefully. I use a wheelchair and have to work with what I've
got. Cutting up heavy sheets goods such as a 4x8 sheet of plywood is
extremely awkward for me. Often for safety's sake, I've had to use a
hand saw or jig saw to cut down sheet good to make them less unwieldy.
It takes time and effort,things I hate wasting. That's why I'm
considering the track saw. And since my table saw resides in a
friend's garage, I only get to use it in Summertime and there's
nothing like an infeed or outfeed table for me to use. The good thing
is that my friend can help me ~ when he's there.
Frequently, I get the whatever store I order plywood from to pre cut
some of it for me, but they often charge for that service and
won't/can't cut to exact size. I have to get them to cut oversize and
the cuts they will do usually have splintered edges all to hell. A
track saw could put much of that control back in my hands.
On Jun 25, 5:15=A0pm, RicodJour <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Jun 25, 3:44=A0pm, Robatoy <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>
> > He also dug up an older Bosch barrel grip Jigsaw, brand new, which I
> > drooled on and had to buy. Big ol' motor, cast shoe. The variable
> > speed and toolless bit change were new to me (on a Bosch) even though
> > the Milwaukee Topgrip had those features, and I liked that saw a lot
> > too, but glad to have a Bosch barrel grip again. When a design works,
> > don't change.
>
> I didn't see that one coming. =A0I figured you had the Festool jigsaw.
> I've had a couple or three Bosch jigsaws over the years, and I liked
> them, but I love the Festool. =A0The cut is truer to square than the
> Bosch or DW jigsaws I've used, the dust collection is superior, and
> the splinter guards work great.
>
> Resistance is futile.
>
> R
I just wasn't going to drop that kind of coin for just casual hobby
work. If I want to cut anything ultra accurate or scroll-type work, I
still have my CNC. This jigsaw won't see much work other than a
serious bathroom renovation which is due to start in a week or so. I
bought 4 sheets of 36 x 48 x 1/4" Corian to use as shower stall and a
sheet of 30 x 144 x 1/2 to make the window sill and a countertop, all
matching in colour. Dunno what to do with the floor yet, and *I* never
knew one could drop a grand on a crapper.... which I refused to do. I
have enough projects (bar and built-in entertainment centre for the
family room, wrap-around veranda for the front of the house, including
sun-filtering pergolas (yay CNC) and a 2-1/2 car garage.)
"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> That said, sanding dust is no longer a problem with two Festool sanders
> and, Festool CT22e Dust Extractor. :)
Now that you are actually using those sanders it should be easier to
remember that you have "2" of them. ;~)
On Jun 25, 7:18=A0am, Upscale <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Fri, 25 Jun 2010 19:29:54 +0900, [email protected]
>
> >If you clamp the festool rail your procedure of "cutting half, going
> >around to the other side and pulling the saw the rest of the way." will
> >be perfectly safe (assuming a sufficent overhang of the rail) and will
> >give you splinter free edges as well.
>
> >You will be unable to tell where you started and stopped
>
> I have to wonder about that. There's been times on the table saw with
> its 60 tooth carbide blade that I've been feeding a sheet of plywood,
> taken several seconds to reposition myself and then fed the rest of
> the sheet through.
>
> Invariable, the plywood has shown some type of burn mark and almost as
> often has left some type of defect to the edge of the plywood. I'm
> sure it hasn't shifted during my repositioning, but I get similar
> problems anyway. The only way I've been able to avoid it was continual
> feeding all the way through. I guess the solution there would be an
> automatic feeder of some type.
Yabbut the Festool blade retracts when you stop so the blade doesn't
spin against the wood and burn it when your stop the saw. The edge
will be fine as long as you don't disturb the track while
repositioning.
I think you may want to look into making a trestle leg adjustable
table that would allow you to clamp the workpiece and track and put
the whole shebang at a height and angle that works for the cut and
workpiece size. Some DeStaco clamps sliding in T-track would probably
be the ticket. That way when you're cutting with the piece at an
angle to maximize your reach, the piece and offcut would stay put.
> >However the Mafell Portable Panel Saw System PSS 3100 SE would be
> >perfect for you though your bank account would feel the pain.
>
> Interesting tool. Considering what I'm about to spend on my Domino
> with accessories, the Mafell is not all that out of line.
Yep, that's one interesting tool. I wonder how long it will be until
they come up with an automatic track saw with a stored cutlist
capability. Morris, CNC and wood...?
R
On Fri, 25 Jun 2010 19:29:54 +0900, [email protected]
>If you clamp the festool rail your procedure of "cutting half, going
>around to the other side and pulling the saw the rest of the way." will
>be perfectly safe (assuming a sufficent overhang of the rail) and will
>give you splinter free edges as well.
>
>You will be unable to tell where you started and stopped
I have to wonder about that. There's been times on the table saw with
its 60 tooth carbide blade that I've been feeding a sheet of plywood,
taken several seconds to reposition myself and then fed the rest of
the sheet through.
Invariable, the plywood has shown some type of burn mark and almost as
often has left some type of defect to the edge of the plywood. I'm
sure it hasn't shifted during my repositioning, but I get similar
problems anyway. The only way I've been able to avoid it was continual
feeding all the way through. I guess the solution there would be an
automatic feeder of some type.
>However the Mafell Portable Panel Saw System PSS 3100 SE would be
>perfect for you though your bank account would feel the pain.
Interesting tool. Considering what I'm about to spend on my Domino
with accessories, the Mafell is not all that out of line.
On Fri, 25 Jun 2010 02:30:15 -0700, "Lobby Dosser"
>Are you planning to put this in your friend's garage, or in your apartment?
Apartment, my living room to be exact. It would be nice if I had a
spare room that I could dedicate to woodworking, but it's not to be.
The biggest problem will be dust of course. I've got a balcony, so I
might consider using that for the occasional plywood cut. Today
actually, I'll be going down to order a Festool Domino and CT22 dust
collector so, I'll see how satisfied I am with it collecting dust
inside and then consider other possibilities.
"Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Fri, 25 Jun 2010 02:30:15 -0700, "Lobby Dosser"
>>Are you planning to put this in your friend's garage, or in your
>>apartment?
>
> Apartment, my living room to be exact. It would be nice if I had a
> spare room that I could dedicate to woodworking, but it's not to be.
> The biggest problem will be dust of course. I've got a balcony, so I
> might consider using that for the occasional plywood cut. Today
> actually, I'll be going down to order a Festool Domino and CT22 dust
> collector so, I'll see how satisfied I am with it collecting dust
> inside and then consider other possibilities.
And you'll be gl### reporting back later, right! Have fun.
On Fri, 25 Jun 2010 02:31:12 -0700, "Lobby Dosser" >> have the
discretionary $10,000 funds to buy it.
>GASP!
To be honest, the $10,000 dollar ones are the lower end. The push
button ones start coming in at about $25,000. Their "panel" saws are
in fact table saws with computer operation. Certainly take up more
floor space than anywhere I currently have access to.
On 6/25/2010 7:43 PM, Mike M wrote:
> Just brought my first Rotex sander and the CT22 home. Looking forward
> to not having to wear the dual cartridge mask while sanding.
> Unfortunately the plunge saw was back ordered. I've got a Laguna
> sliding table and it still looks easier to cut sheet goods with the
> plunge saw then trying to muscle 3/4" plywood around.
Definitely is for me, particularly when you consider that you can get
equal accuracy/cut quality with the plunge saw and guide rail.
Since I batch cut cabinet parts, and if I didn't have a table saw, I
would definitely want the parallel guide system as well.
This appears to be a fair review of that item:
http://www.burrellcustomcarpentry.com/subpage83.html
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)
On Fri, 25 Jun 2010 01:13:04 -0700 (PDT), RicodJour
>I think the track saw will be just the ticket for you.
>
>Now you get to sell your TS to the friend to help finance the Festool
>purchase. ;)
A little correction. I refer to it as "my table saw", but I did sell
it to him several years ago for a paltry $100 and dinner in a decent
restaurant. The benefit to me is that I get to go over there and use
it frequently, in the summer anyway.
On Jun 25, 3:01=A0am, Upscale <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Thu, 24 Jun 2010 20:10:23 -0700, "Lobby Dosser"
>
> >How do you cut sheet goods from a seated position? I'm not constrained t=
o a
> >seated position, but I'm also not all that damn stable when standing. AA=
MOF,
> >I was replacing the screen door to the patio a while back and ended up o=
n my
> >back with the door on top of me! Not the kind of flailing I want to do
> >around the TS.
>
> Very carefully. I use a wheelchair and have to work with what I've
> got. Cutting up heavy sheets goods such as a 4x8 sheet of plywood is
> extremely awkward for me. Often for safety's sake, I've had to use a
> hand saw or jig saw to cut down sheet good to make them less unwieldy.
> It takes time and effort,things I hate wasting. That's why I'm
> considering the track saw. And since my table saw resides in a
> friend's garage, I only get to use it in Summertime and there's
> nothing like an infeed or outfeed table for me to use. The good thing
> is that my friend can help me ~ when he's there.
>
> Frequently, I get the whatever store I order plywood from to pre cut
> some of it for me, but they often charge for that service and
> won't/can't cut to exact size. I have to get them to cut oversize and
> the cuts they will do usually have splintered edges all to hell. A
> track saw could put much of that control back in my hands.
I think the track saw will be just the ticket for you.
Now you get to sell your TS to the friend to help finance the Festool
purchase. ;)
R
SonomaProducts.com <[email protected]> wrote:
:> One factor I want to be careful about is that (a) the shop is inside the
:> house, and (b) there is one air return in the shop, directly above the
:> door, which is in the SE corner.
: Hello!
: Did you say the shop is in the house and the room is included in the
: house air system? This seem very problematic. One would think you
: would want to isolate you home air system from the shop air. If not, I
: would think about adding some additional filtering on the return from
: the shop or you are adding fine particulate matter to your whole
: house, lungs, kids, lungs, etc.
It's actually in a guesthouse, not the main house. I have considered
adding a single room air conditioner to the shop and closing off the vent
to isolate the shop from the rest of the guesthouse.
-- Andy Barss
"Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Thu, 24 Jun 2010 15:28:17 -0500, Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>Answered this before, and maybe even posted pictures for you(?), but
>>yes. cabinet grade plywood is what is routinely cut with my TS75, and up
>>until recently with exceptional results an A1 grade stock.
>
> If you did answer for me, then apologies for repeating myself. The
> only thing I'd have to decide is if I want to get the TS55 or the
> TS75. I'd be using it for sheet goods only and sincerely doubt I'd
> need the extra depth cutting capability of the TS75.
>
> The only considering being is the larger saw (weight and handling
> difficulties from a sitting position) and the larger blade of the TS75
> which would have several more teeth on it giving a slightly smoother
> cut.
How do you cut sheet goods from a seated position? I'm not constrained to a
seated position, but I'm also not all that damn stable when standing. AAMOF,
I was replacing the screen door to the patio a while back and ended up on my
back with the door on top of me! Not the kind of flailing I want to do
around the TS.
"Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Thu, 24 Jun 2010 20:10:23 -0700, "Lobby Dosser"
>>How do you cut sheet goods from a seated position? I'm not constrained to
>>a
>>seated position, but I'm also not all that damn stable when standing.
>>AAMOF,
>>I was replacing the screen door to the patio a while back and ended up on
>>my
>>back with the door on top of me! Not the kind of flailing I want to do
>>around the TS.
>
> Very carefully. I use a wheelchair and have to work with what I've
> got. Cutting up heavy sheets goods such as a 4x8 sheet of plywood is
> extremely awkward for me. Often for safety's sake, I've had to use a
> hand saw or jig saw to cut down sheet good to make them less unwieldy.
OK, that answers that one. Thanks. :(
> It takes time and effort,things I hate wasting. That's why I'm
> considering the track saw.
By 'track saw' you mean the Festool, right? How will that help?
> And since my table saw resides in a
> friend's garage, I only get to use it in Summertime and there's
> nothing like an infeed or outfeed table for me to use. The good thing
> is that my friend can help me ~ when he's there.
I may have to use SWMBO as a push stick. :()
>
> Frequently, I get the whatever store I order plywood from to pre cut
> some of it for me, but they often charge for that service and
> won't/can't cut to exact size. I have to get them to cut oversize and
> the cuts they will do usually have splintered edges all to hell.
Yeah, that's pretty much what you get around here. They'll do one or two
cuts free and the rest at $0.50 a cut, but only to the nearest 1/2 inch and
it's a crap shoot whether ot not you get someone reasonably competent on the
panel saw. NTM whether or not the blade is in decent shape.
> A
> track saw could put much of that control back in my hands.
>
I'm thinking about building a panel saw for sheet goods. So far it's the
only way I can think of to safely cut them by myself. Though I may try some
lightweight sheets through the table saw first. It was two years before I
allowed myself to drive due to my loss of reaction time and I've yet to face
the table saw. Astonishing how much of what you do goes on outside the
brain.
"Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Fri, 25 Jun 2010 00:45:37 -0700, "Lobby Dosser"
>>> It takes time and effort,things I hate wasting. That's why I'm
>>> considering the track saw.
>
>>By 'track saw' you mean the Festool, right? How will that help?
>
> I have plenty of requisite strength if needed, but for me, it's all
> about reach, or lack of it in my case.. A panel saw type of apparatus
> would be suitable. Basically, something to hold a sheet of plywood
> upright solidly, but several inches off the ground. Essentially, it
> would be a panel saw without the saw part and I'd be adding the
> Festool track saw to the party. Being able to lean down and up gives
> me 5' or more of cutting reach which would be great for 4x8 plywood.
>
> I suppose I could also lay a sheet of plywood flat on an table or
> something and use the tracksaw, but not being able to lean over it, I
> wouldn't have the reach to cut 4' across the sheet. At the very least
> with 4x8 wood, I'd be cutting half, going around to the other side and
> pulling the saw the rest of the way. Not all that safe and not great
> for splinter free edges.
While I've been brainstorming what to do I thought about the possibility of
having some sort of pulley arrangement for the panel saw. Maybe
counterweights to pull the saw through a cut. Another option you might want
to consider is using the panel 'saw' as a router platform. I think this
might be fairly easy with Festool. IIRC the 'track' part works with their
saw and router.
Are you planning to put this in your friend's garage, or in your apartment?
"Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Fri, 25 Jun 2010 00:45:37 -0700, "Lobby Dosser"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>I'm thinking about building a panel saw for sheet goods. So far it's the
>>only way I can think of to safely cut them by myself. Though I may try
>>some
>>lightweight sheets through the table saw first. It was two years before I
>>allowed myself to drive due to my loss of reaction time and I've yet to
>>face
>>the table saw. Astonishing how much of what you do goes on outside the
>>brain.
>
> I was looking at some Laguna panel saws with push button operation.
> One of them cuts to 0.08 tolerances IIRC. THAT'S what I really need.
> However, I don't have the space to set one up and I certainly don't
> have the discretionary $10,000 funds to buy it.
GASP!
On Fri, 25 Jun 2010 00:45:37 -0700, "Lobby Dosser"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I'm thinking about building a panel saw for sheet goods. So far it's the
>only way I can think of to safely cut them by myself. Though I may try some
>lightweight sheets through the table saw first. It was two years before I
>allowed myself to drive due to my loss of reaction time and I've yet to face
>the table saw. Astonishing how much of what you do goes on outside the
>brain.
I was looking at some Laguna panel saws with push button operation.
One of them cuts to 0.08 tolerances IIRC. THAT'S what I really need.
However, I don't have the space to set one up and I certainly don't
have the discretionary $10,000 funds to buy it.
On 6/25/2010 2:01 AM, Upscale wrote:
> Very carefully. I use a wheelchair and have to work with what I've
> got. Cutting up heavy sheets goods such as a 4x8 sheet of plywood is
> extremely awkward for me.
Although there will always be the occasional awkward cut, I do think the
TS55, along with a low, cutting/assembly table, would be a system that
would make your plywood cutting chores a lot easier for you ... and
possibly open up a whole new world of enjoyment.
I can verify that, in conjunction with a Festool dust extraction unit
like the CT22E, there will also be a lot less sawdust to deal with.
Although there will always be some sawdust generated when using any
circular saw, I would say that the combo effectively removes about 95%
when used properly.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)
On 6/22/2010 8:13 AM, Leon wrote:
> "Swingman"<[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>
>> That said, sanding dust is no longer a problem with two Festool sanders
>> and, Festool CT22e Dust Extractor. :)
>
>
> Now that you are actually using those sanders it should be easier to
> remember that you have "2" of them. ;~)
LOL ... yep, was so excited using the TS75 plunge saw for making
everything but gumbo, that, even though it was duly reflected in my
official shop tool inventory, I'd plumb forgot about buying the RTS 400
EQ back in December ... until I discovered that "extra" systainer the
other day??!
It be Christmas deja vu, all over again, in June ... :)
Good thing, cause I really needed it at the time.
Now, I really see an overpowering need for the DTS 400 also, to complete
the threeO ... don't care to ever own/use another make sander. :)
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)
On Fri, 25 Jun 2010 12:19:16 -0500, Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
>On 6/25/2010 10:23 AM, [email protected] wrote:
>
>> I'm planning on buying a OF 1400 (and maybe a TS55 later) this weekend
>> and was wondering about dust collection. Can I use my existing dust
>> collection stuff (i.e. are the ports "standard")? I *really* don't
>> want to buy into festering dust stuff. It might be a deal killer.
>
>AFAIK they are not standard, but there should be adapters that will work.
Hmm, not promising. I could save a couple of hundred bucks and just buy a
Bosch (if I can find one). Again, I don't want yet *another* dust collector
in the way.
>On the other side of the coin, Leon got us both adapters for the CT22E
>to work with the Kreg K3 pocket hole jig ... I just made a couple of
>face frames for a cabinet job and repaired a family heirloom table for
>someone in the last week or so and that's the first time I've ever used
>the Kreg jig with NO sawdust whatsoever, none, zip, nada!
That would be nice.
>That said, all bets are off as to the effectiveness of Festool 'tool
>dust collector ports' with other dust collectors or shop vacs, but they
>should work, after a fashion, with the right adapters.
>
>There is a fairly decent "package" discount when buying a DE with a saw,
>and the DE works with all other Festool tools.
I don't really need a saw right now (and would rather replace my SCMS, but the
Festool sale is a good deal). I really need a plunge router (to go with the
still-in-the-box Mortice Pal). I guess I could put off the decision about
dust collection and the TS55 for a few weeks.
>The beauty of the Festool components is that they are designed to work
>together. You plug the Festool into the DE and the dust collection
>starts and stops with the tool; plus their variable speed function works
>well with various tasks ... like with a sander, where you may have to
>cut back on the DE suck so that the sander doesn't get stuck to the
>workpiece ... not kidding.
I do that with my SCMS now. I just haven't bothered with the other tools.
On Fri, 25 Jun 2010 12:19:16 -0500, Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
>On the other side of the coin, Leon got us both adapters for the CT22E
>to work with the Kreg K3 pocket hole jig ... I just made a couple of
I've got a Kreg K3. Know if the adapter came from Kreg or Festool (or
perhaps some other source)? If you're not sure, I'll ping Leon.
On 6/25/2010 10:24 PM, Upscale wrote:
> On Fri, 25 Jun 2010 12:19:16 -0500, Swingman<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> On the other side of the coin, Leon got us both adapters for the CT22E
>> to work with the Kreg K3 pocket hole jig ... I just made a couple of
>
> I've got a Kreg K3. Know if the adapter came from Kreg or Festool (or
> perhaps some other source)? If you're not sure, I'll ping Leon.
I'm not sure where he found it, so best ping him.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)
On Mon, 21 Jun 2010 06:58:31 -0700 (PDT), Andy Dingley <[email protected]>
wrote:
>On 21 June, 02:25, Upscale <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> I'd mount it over or near whatever makes the most dust
>
>Dust, not chips.
>
>There's some mileage to putting it near a router table, or workbench,
>because that makes fine dust. A table saw makes coarser stuff that
>falls by gravity, or is sucked up by the cyclone (most workshops need
>a cyclone before a ceiling filter).
>
>Mine's currently near the lathe, because lathe sanding throws a lot of
>dust, and it throws it high. I also have a downdraught sanding table
>to deal with finishing work at source.
>
>Mostly though, don't put it near the door to the outside, or anywhere
>near a draught. No point in trying to clean up the great outdoors.
I know this is never done, but if you RTFM you'll see that it warns not to put
it near the "exit path" or something of a machine..
Best protection IMHO is:
A good mask.. (do as I say, etc.)
A DC to get as much as possible before it gets to the mask..
An air scrubber to get the fine stuff that the DC misses..
Followed by going over the shop with a 2.5" hose connected to the DC before the
wife complains.. (My shop IS in the house)
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
On 6/24/2010 9:28 PM, Upscale wrote:
> On Thu, 24 Jun 2010 15:28:17 -0500, Swingman<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Answered this before, and maybe even posted pictures for you(?), but
>> yes. cabinet grade plywood is what is routinely cut with my TS75, and up
>> until recently with exceptional results an A1 grade stock.
>
> If you did answer for me, then apologies for repeating myself. The
> only thing I'd have to decide is if I want to get the TS55 or the
> TS75. I'd be using it for sheet goods only and sincerely doubt I'd
> need the extra depth cutting capability of the TS75.
>
> The only considering being is the larger saw (weight and handling
> difficulties from a sitting position) and the larger blade of the TS75
> which would have several more teeth on it giving a slightly smoother
> cut.
I felt like I needed the extra cutting capacity, and it turns out I was
correct in that.
There is substantial difference in weight ... about 4lbs, IIRC. In your
case, and particularly just wanting a saw to cut sheet goods, I suspect
the 55 may be the better choice in saws
Leon was recently on the fence with the same issue you face. Might want
to ping him and see his reasons for choosing the TS75 as he generally
gives these things a good deal of thought and consideration before
leaping, and rarely goes for size alone.
You will definitely be tickled with whichever one you buy. :)
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)
On 6/24/2010 12:58 PM, Upscale wrote:
> On Thu, 24 Jun 2010 12:36:44 -0500, Swingman<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> LOL ... yep, was so excited using the TS75 plunge saw for making
>> everything but gumbo, that, even though it was duly reflected in my
>> official shop tool inventory, I'd plumb forgot about buying the RTS 400
>
> Have you used the track saw to cross cut cabinet grade veneered
> plywood and if so, how clean was the cut? I'm wondering if I can use
> one of these track saws to occasionally replace the table saw with a
> 60 tooth carbide blade?
Answered this before, and maybe even posted pictures for you(?), but
yes. cabinet grade plywood is what is routinely cut with my TS75, and up
until recently with exceptional results an A1 grade stock.
That said, and after cutting a lot of utility plywood with it in the
interim, I did dull the blade by hitting an embedded drywall screw the
other day and noticed that the cut quality had indeed degraded slightly.
That can't be blamed on the saw, and this was in a rift sawn oak, A1
plywood that has had a notoriously brittle veneer in the past that is
even prone to splinter a bit with a Forrest WWII. Hell, it splinters if
you drag an assembled cabinet across the work bench or floor before it's
been stained/finished.
I'll simply use the blade in question henceforth for utility and rough
cuts only.
... it's wise to do that in any event.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)
On Sat, 26 Jun 2010 08:05:55 -0500, Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
>On 6/25/2010 10:24 PM, Upscale wrote:
>> On Fri, 25 Jun 2010 12:19:16 -0500, Swingman<[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> On the other side of the coin, Leon got us both adapters for the CT22E
>>> to work with the Kreg K3 pocket hole jig ... I just made a couple of
>>
>> I've got a Kreg K3. Know if the adapter came from Kreg or Festool (or
>> perhaps some other source)? If you're not sure, I'll ping Leon.
>
>I'm not sure where he found it, so best ping him.
I found last night that my hoses from an older sears shop vac will
plug right into the CT22 inlet which means I can use it with many of
my other tools that I adapted to the 1 1/4" hose or 2"
Mike M
On Thu, 24 Jun 2010 12:36:44 -0500, Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
>On 6/22/2010 8:13 AM, Leon wrote:
>> "Swingman"<[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>>
>>> That said, sanding dust is no longer a problem with two Festool sanders
>>> and, Festool CT22e Dust Extractor. :)
>>
>>
>> Now that you are actually using those sanders it should be easier to
>> remember that you have "2" of them. ;~)
>
>LOL ... yep, was so excited using the TS75 plunge saw for making
>everything but gumbo, that, even though it was duly reflected in my
>official shop tool inventory, I'd plumb forgot about buying the RTS 400
>EQ back in December ... until I discovered that "extra" systainer the
>other day??!
>
>It be Christmas deja vu, all over again, in June ... :)
>
>Good thing, cause I really needed it at the time.
>
>Now, I really see an overpowering need for the DTS 400 also, to complete
>the threeO ... don't care to ever own/use another make sander. :)
Just brought my first Rotex sander and the CT22 home. Looking forward
to not having to wear the dual cartridge mask while sanding.
Unfortunately the plunge saw was back ordered. I've got a Laguna
sliding table and it still looks easier to cut sheet goods with the
plunge saw then trying to muscle 3/4" plywood around.
Mike M
On Mon, 21 Jun 2010 14:13:21 -0700 (PDT), "SonomaProducts.com"
<[email protected]> wrote the following:
>
>> One factor I want to be careful about is that (a) the shop is inside the
>> house, and (b) there is one air return in the shop, directly above the
>> door, which is in the SE corner.
>
>
>Hello!
>
>Did you say the shop is in the house and the room is included in the
>house air system? This seem very problematic. One would think you
>would want to isolate you home air system from the shop air. If not, I
>would think about adding some additional filtering on the return from
>the shop or you are adding fine particulate matter to your whole
>house, lungs, kids, lungs, etc.
One Filtrete HEPA filter does that for $12.95 per quarter. NOT a prob.
--
Peace of mind is that mental condition in which you have accepted the worst.
-- Lin Yutang
On Mon, 21 Jun 2010 01:19:22 +0000 (UTC), Andrew Barss
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I have a JDS air filter/cleaner which I want to mount in my shop
I'd mount it over or near whatever makes the most dust or since many
of your machine tools are mobile, over the area where you usually use
them.
On Thu, 24 Jun 2010 12:36:44 -0500, Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
>LOL ... yep, was so excited using the TS75 plunge saw for making
>everything but gumbo, that, even though it was duly reflected in my
>official shop tool inventory, I'd plumb forgot about buying the RTS 400
Have you used the track saw to cross cut cabinet grade veneered
plywood and if so, how clean was the cut? I'm wondering if I can use
one of these track saws to occasionally replace the table saw with a
60 tooth carbide blade?
On Fri, 25 Jun 2010 23:24:43 -0400, Upscale <[email protected]> wrote:
>On Fri, 25 Jun 2010 12:19:16 -0500, Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>On the other side of the coin, Leon got us both adapters for the CT22E
>>to work with the Kreg K3 pocket hole jig ... I just made a couple of
>
>I've got a Kreg K3. Know if the adapter came from Kreg or Festool (or
>perhaps some other source)? If you're not sure, I'll ping Leon.
I found this adapter that looks like it may do 2-1/2" to Festool. I guess
I'll take measurements when I'm at WoodCraft tomorrow. Dust collection gizmos
are always such a pain.
On Sat, 26 Jun 2010 00:01:14 -0500, "[email protected]"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Fri, 25 Jun 2010 23:24:43 -0400, Upscale <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>On Fri, 25 Jun 2010 12:19:16 -0500, Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>>On the other side of the coin, Leon got us both adapters for the CT22E
>>>to work with the Kreg K3 pocket hole jig ... I just made a couple of
>>
>>I've got a Kreg K3. Know if the adapter came from Kreg or Festool (or
>>perhaps some other source)? If you're not sure, I'll ping Leon.
>
>I found this adapter that looks like it may do 2-1/2" to Festool. I guess
>I'll take measurements when I'm at WoodCraft tomorrow. Dust collection gizmos
>are always such a pain.
Crap, sent too soon.
http://www.mcfeelys.com/product/452897/Suction-Hose-Adapter
On Sat, 26 Jun 2010 00:46:49 -0700, "Lobby Dosser"
>And you'll be gl### reporting back later, right! Have fun.
Not reporting back just yet. My ride was over an hour late picking me
up because of all the damned G20 demonstrations which meant that I
wouldn't have the time to do everything I needed to do including
buying the Domino. Won't be until next Thursday before I get another
chance. Today (yesterday actually) was a really bad day for me.
On Fri, 25 Jun 2010 00:45:37 -0700, "Lobby Dosser"
>> It takes time and effort,things I hate wasting. That's why I'm
>> considering the track saw.
>By 'track saw' you mean the Festool, right? How will that help?
I have plenty of requisite strength if needed, but for me, it's all
about reach, or lack of it in my case.. A panel saw type of apparatus
would be suitable. Basically, something to hold a sheet of plywood
upright solidly, but several inches off the ground. Essentially, it
would be a panel saw without the saw part and I'd be adding the
Festool track saw to the party. Being able to lean down and up gives
me 5' or more of cutting reach which would be great for 4x8 plywood.
I suppose I could also lay a sheet of plywood flat on an table or
something and use the tracksaw, but not being able to lean over it, I
wouldn't have the reach to cut 4' across the sheet. At the very least
with 4x8 wood, I'd be cutting half, going around to the other side and
pulling the saw the rest of the way. Not all that safe and not great
for splinter free edges.
On Sat, 26 Jun 2010 16:45:04 -0500, Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
>Ayup ... and Festool is uncannily designed for on-site accuracy and
>increased productivity. I'm seeing more and more trim carpenters with
>the tell tale Systainers in the back of pickups and vans.
And, for anyone looking to expand their systainer set or otherwise
interested, Lee Valley Tools sells a wide variety of Systainer Boxes,
Drawer Systainers, Systainer Dolly, Polystyrene trays, Foam inserts,
Mini Systainers and accessories, Systainer sets, A 3 sided lid insert.
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=64664&cat=1,43326,64664
"Pat Barber" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Gee....thanks for the "drive by"....
>
> I'm still on my old 5" ROS tied to that super quite Crapsman 10hp shop
> vac..
>
> Swingman wrote:
>
>> That said, sanding dust is no longer a problem with two Festool sanders
>> and, Festool CT22e Dust Extractor. :)
>>
LOL. My super quiet Craftsman is in the attic, being super quiet and
unused. Seriousely the Festool Vac is quieter than the sander. The absence
of dust is the only indicator that the vac is actually running.
The concept was flow in the room. It draws air through it and
will work the room better that way. Creating side currents.
Straight on might leave voids of dead air.
Temp mount it and do a smoke test. See how it draws a smokey pot from
all parts - find dead parts - rotate or move and test again.
I'm sure they had to defend their stance that it worked and proved the
use.
Test yourself. It is in your best interest.
Martin
Martin H. Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
"Our Republic and the Press will Rise or Fall Together": Joseph Pulitzer
TSRA: Endowed; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal.
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Charter Founder
IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member. http://lufkinced.com/
On 6/20/2010 8:19 PM, Andrew Barss wrote:
> I have a JDS air filter/cleaner which I want to mount in my shop (I also
> have a dust collector). There's not a lot of info out there on
> positioning, and some of it is contradictory. Grizzly recommends mounting
> it diagonally in a squarish shop (which mine is), toward one corner. The
> shop may not be big enough to matter, but any advice would be appreciated.
>
> The TS is central. The lathe is perpendicular to the north wall. The BS
> and planer and jointer are on casters, and can go anywhere.
>
> One factor I want to be careful about is that (a) the shop is inside the
> house, and (b) there is one air return in the shop, directly above the
> door, which is in the SE corner. I can't figure out the best arrangement
> for positioning the air filter with respect to the air outlet.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Andy Barss
>