hello, my name is Amy, I'm looking to buy some basswood and can't find
any sites. I do all kinds of crafts. The problem I'm having is at the
craft stores the basswood rounds are some high in price that I can't
make any money. Do you know where I can get any cypress wood in and
around North Carolina area?
On Thu, 08 Jul 2004 20:18:43 GMT, patriarch
<<patriarch>[email protected]> wrote:
>
>That's the number I figure ON AVERAGE that I pay, with the 8.5% premium we
>Californians pay for the privilege of living here.
>
>Some of the blades I have taken them are 40T combo blades. Some, 60T and
>80T cross-cut and finishing blades. More teeth, more $$.
>
>A better quality blade, sharpened well, makes a noticable difference in the
>quality of cut, on the same material and the same saw. Considering the
>cost of filling the pickup truck at the hardwood supplier, the return on
>investing in quality, sharp blades is pretty good.
>
>Patriarch
I just checked here in Charlotte, NC and a 40 tooth sharpening is $13.
That's better and more cost effect. Takes a week to turn it around.
BTW, my home town is Oakland; below the temple.
Thunder
Rolling Thunder wrote:
> How do you determine when to sharpen a circular 10 inch combination
> blade or a circular 10 inch miter blade?
>
> Thunder
When you spend more time resetting the circuit breaker for the saw than
actually cutting wood it's a good sign your blade needs sharpening.
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
(Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)
"Pounds on Wood" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> When the smoke begins to irritate my sinus. :)
>
> --
> ********
> Bill Pounds
> http://www.billpounds.com
>
>
I change my blade as soon as the smoke burns my eyes.
SS, with fire extinguisher nearby
Thanks for the post. This when in my "keeper" folder.
-- Mark
Leon wrote:
> Excellent question. Today's better blades stay sharp much longer and
> the dulling of the blade tends to happen over a long period. This
> all being relative to the amount of sawing you do day in and day out.
> For future reference, using a freshly sharpened blade or a new blade,
> make a couple of sample cuts and keep the samples to compare by. I
> like to use red oak for this test. If crosscutting starts to leave
> more tear out on the back side of the cut or you notice that the end
> grain pores are not clean cut and open, you may need to have your
> blade sharpened.
> Then there is the old stand by method. I keep 2 Forrest WWII blades.
> When I suspect a performance drop in a blade, I remove it and mount
> the other. If my suspicions are confirmed I leave the comparison
> blade on the saw and send the other in to be sharpened. If there is
> no difference, I remount and continue to use the original blade and
> put the fresh one back into storage. One last thing to note. I have
> a local sharpener that uses computer controlled sharpeners that can
> identify my blade if I return it for sharpening and they can sharpen
> to 600 grit. I always thought that they did a good job. I let them
> resharpen my Forrest. I used it for about 2 days and then sent it to
> Forrest. When the blade came back from Forrest the results of the
> cuts were noticeably much better than my local service.
>
>
>
>
> "Rolling Thunder" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> How do you determine when to sharpen a circular 10 inch combination
>> blade or a circular 10 inch miter blade?
>>
>> Thunder
On Tue, 06 Jul 2004 20:30:35 GMT, patriarch
<<patriarch>[email protected]> wrote:
>
>Google a thread from last year on 'sharpening service' for a recommendation
>on a good service local to you.
>
>A pro sharpening shop is an excellent resource.
>
>I pay around $20 to sharpen a good, 10" combo blade, dropped off and picked
>up at their place of business. In Concord, 20 miles east of Oakland, CA.
>
>Patriarch
Is $20 the going rate to sharpen a 10" saw blade? Seems high to me.
Seems to me, not much more can buy a new blade for my purposes.
Thunder
If you think that is high, maybe you should buy another blade. Or buy a
good blade and have it sharpened every 5 or 6 years or longer. If you think
a cheap blade is a good deal, you probably are not using it very much.
"Rolling Thunder" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Tue, 06 Jul 2004 20:30:35 GMT, patriarch
> <<patriarch>[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >
> >Google a thread from last year on 'sharpening service' for a
recommendation
> >on a good service local to you.
> >
> >A pro sharpening shop is an excellent resource.
> >
> >I pay around $20 to sharpen a good, 10" combo blade, dropped off and
picked
> >up at their place of business. In Concord, 20 miles east of Oakland, CA.
> >
> >Patriarch
>
> Is $20 the going rate to sharpen a 10" saw blade? Seems high to me.
> Seems to me, not much more can buy a new blade for my purposes.
>
> Thunder
>
"Rolling Thunder" wrote in message
> How do you determine when to sharpen a circular 10 inch combination
> blade or a circular 10 inch miter blade?
When I buy a new blade, or get one sharpened, I'll make a couple of
rips/crosscuts through various scraps that I have on hand (the materials
used most, by default), mark and date them and store them for reference. You
can tell a lot just by judging the quality of past and present cuts with a
blade, and this is simple way to do it.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 5/15/04
Excellent question. Today's better blades stay sharp much longer and the
dulling of the blade tends to happen over a long period. This all being
relative to the amount of sawing you do day in and day out. For future
reference, using a freshly sharpened blade or a new blade, make a couple of
sample cuts and keep the samples to compare by. I like to use red oak for
this test. If crosscutting starts to leave more tear out on the back side
of the cut or you notice that the end grain pores are not clean cut and
open, you may need to have your blade sharpened.
Then there is the old stand by method. I keep 2 Forrest WWII blades. When
I suspect a performance drop in a blade, I remove it and mount the other.
If my suspicions are confirmed I leave the comparison blade on the saw and
send the other in to be sharpened. If there is no difference, I remount and
continue to use the original blade and put the fresh one back into storage.
One last thing to note. I have a local sharpener that uses computer
controlled sharpeners that can identify my blade if I return it for
sharpening and they can sharpen to 600 grit. I always thought that they did
a good job. I let them resharpen my Forrest. I used it for about 2 days
and then sent it to Forrest. When the blade came back from Forrest the
results of the cuts were noticeably much better than my local service.
"Rolling Thunder" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> How do you determine when to sharpen a circular 10 inch combination
> blade or a circular 10 inch miter blade?
>
> Thunder
"Phisherman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> The cuts are no longer clean, but "hairy."
Regardless of how sharp the blade, when cutting dried Chinese Squash, you
always get hairy.
Rolling Thunder <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> How do you determine when to sharpen a circular 10 inch combination
> blade or a circular 10 inch miter blade?
>
> Thunder
Google a thread from last year on 'sharpening service' for a recommendation
on a good service local to you.
A pro sharpening shop is an excellent resource.
I pay around $20 to sharpen a good, 10" combo blade, dropped off and picked
up at their place of business. In Concord, 20 miles east of Oakland, CA.
Patriarch
Rolling Thunder <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> On Tue, 06 Jul 2004 20:30:35 GMT, patriarch
> <<patriarch>[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>
>>Google a thread from last year on 'sharpening service' for a
>>recommendation on a good service local to you.
>>
>>A pro sharpening shop is an excellent resource.
>>
>>I pay around $20 to sharpen a good, 10" combo blade, dropped off and
>>picked up at their place of business. In Concord, 20 miles east of
>>Oakland, CA.
>>
>>Patriarch
>
> Is $20 the going rate to sharpen a 10" saw blade? Seems high to me.
> Seems to me, not much more can buy a new blade for my purposes.
>
> Thunder
>
That's the number I figure ON AVERAGE that I pay, with the 8.5% premium we
Californians pay for the privilege of living here.
Some of the blades I have taken them are 40T combo blades. Some, 60T and
80T cross-cut and finishing blades. More teeth, more $$.
A better quality blade, sharpened well, makes a noticable difference in the
quality of cut, on the same material and the same saw. Considering the
cost of filling the pickup truck at the hardwood supplier, the return on
investing in quality, sharp blades is pretty good.
Patriarch
When the smoke begins to irritate my sinus. :)
--
********
Bill Pounds
http://www.billpounds.com
"Rolling Thunder" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> How do you determine when to sharpen a circular 10 inch combination
> blade or a circular 10 inch miter blade?
>
> Thunder
Try this company for your cypress needs - I bought 1200 sf from them 4
years ago and have not had any problems with it since then.
http://www.cypresssiding.com/glossary.htm
cow girl449 wrote:
> hello, my name is Amy, I'm looking to buy some basswood and can't find
> any sites. I do all kinds of crafts. The problem I'm having is at the
> craft stores the basswood rounds are some high in price that I can't
> make any money. Do you know where I can get any cypress wood in and
> around North Carolina area?
>
"Rolling Thunder" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> How do you determine when to sharpen a circular 10 inch combination
> blade or a circular 10 inch miter blade?
>
> Thunder
If you've used it when it was sharp you will know when it is dull.
--
John McGaw
[Knoxville, TN, USA]
http://johnmcgaw.com
On Tue, 06 Jul 2004 19:43:31 GMT, Rolling Thunder <[email protected]>
wrote:
>How do you determine when to sharpen a circular 10 inch combination
>blade or a circular 10 inch miter blade?
>
>Thunder
The cuts are no longer clean, but "hairy."
rofl, im with ya man.
randy
"Pounds on Wood" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> When the smoke begins to irritate my sinus. :)
>
> --
> ********
> Bill Pounds
> http://www.billpounds.com
>
>
> "Rolling Thunder" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > How do you determine when to sharpen a circular 10 inch combination
> > blade or a circular 10 inch miter blade?
> >
> > Thunder
>
>
> If you've used it when it was sharp you will know when it is dull.
> --
> John McGaw
> [Knoxville, TN, USA]
> http://johnmcgaw.com
That's the truth! And that's the best one I've heard in a while! laf.
I was thinking when it takes two hands on the miter saw then you might want
to think about resharpening, lol.
Rich
"Rolling Thunder" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> How do you determine when to sharpen a circular 10 inch combination
> blade or a circular 10 inch miter blade?
>
> Thunder
They deteriorate so slow that you don't notice it for a while but one day
you just thing the cut should have been smoother or faster. Send the blade
out.
I had a couple sharpened recently by Ridge Carbide Tools in New Jersey. Two
blades was about $30 including shipping. They cut better now then when new.
Worth checking them out at www.ridgecarbidetool.com They have their own
brand of blades but sharpen any brand. I sent them a DeWalt and Freud.
Ed
[email protected]
http://pages.cthome.net/edhome