I had read about the benefits of using Corrosion-X (vs paste wax), a
marine-use anti-corrosive, but couldn't find it at the marinas and sporting
goods stores that I tried (Bass Pro, Gander Mtn, local guys). What I did
find was Quicksilver Corrosion Guard from Mercury Marine. So, I put a nice
new fininsh on the TS, BS and jointer and sprayed it on. Well, a week later
it's still tacky. Not exactly conducive to optimal machine use. I called
Merc and they said that that was it's normal state. So, the big question;
Instead of wiping this all off with some solvent (they 'didn't know ' which
one but I could 'try' laquer thinner) is it possible to spray it with a
dryer to get it to set up? I actually don't think this will work but, hey,
you don't know if you don't ask. I'm thinking that I'm in for a long,
stinky weekend and back to the Johnson's Paste Wax (which is still allowing
a slow rusting process to take place - very subtly).
TIA,
C
C & E wrote:
> I had read about the benefits of using Corrosion-X (vs paste wax), a
> marine-use anti-corrosive, but couldn't find it at the marinas and sporting
> goods stores that I tried (Bass Pro, Gander Mtn, local guys). What I did
> find was Quicksilver Corrosion Guard from Mercury Marine. So, I put a nice
> new fininsh on the TS, BS and jointer and sprayed it on. Well, a week later
> it's still tacky. Not exactly conducive to optimal machine use. I called
> Merc and they said that that was it's normal state. So, the big question;
> Instead of wiping this all off with some solvent (they 'didn't know ' which
> one but I could 'try' laquer thinner) is it possible to spray it with a
> dryer to get it to set up? I actually don't think this will work but, hey,
> you don't know if you don't ask. I'm thinking that I'm in for a long,
> stinky weekend and back to the Johnson's Paste Wax (which is still allowing
> a slow rusting process to take place - very subtly).
> TIA,
> C
I read a little about it and from the applications that I saw, I don't
think you'll be able to get it to set up... Just my humble two pennies
worth.
WD40 will probably take it off pretty easily... You'll definitely want
to make sure that nothing in the Quicksilver doesn't make any
unpleasant (i.e. explosive or poisonous fumes) side products.
Good luck...
The best rust preventitive ---- Use it more often!!!
> > Boeshield works very well.
>
>
> I agree, and I've also been served well by Bostich Top Cote. I usually
> buy whatever is easier for me to get at the time I run out. <G>
I've really liked Top Cote. Not only does it keep rust from forming,
but it makes wood slide over the machine surface like it's on ice -
very nice for jointer tables.
As for removing the other product and helping remove rust stains, I've
had good luck with Boeshields Rust Off.
Mike
On Oct 12, 7:40 am, B A R R Y <[email protected]> wrote:
> Mike wrote:
> >>> Boeshield works very well.
>
> >> I agree, and I've also been served well by Bostich Top Cote. I usually
> >> buy whatever is easier for me to get at the time I run out. <G>
>
> > I've really liked Top Cote. Not only does it keep rust from forming,
> > but it makes wood slide over the machine surface like it's on ice -
> > very nice for jointer tables.And it smells nice, too!
Are you talking about TopCote or Boeshield?
AFAIC, Boeshield smells like dead...something....muskrats maybe?
TopCote DOES smell pretty good.
C & E wrote:
> I'm thinking that I'm in for a long,
> stinky weekend and back to the Johnson's Paste Wax (which is still allowing
> a slow rusting process to take place - very subtly).
I've never used it personally, but I've heard good things about
Boeshield. It did pretty good in a comparison test in Wood Magazine.
http://www.boeshield.com/index.htm
Chris
C & E wrote:
> I'm=A0thinking=A0that=A0I'm=A0in=A0for=A0a=A0long,
> stinky weekend and back to the Johnson's Paste Wax (which is still al=
lowing
> a slow rusting process to take place - very subtly).
We have cold wet winters and hot dry summers. So my cast iron stuff is=
in a
shop that's unheated much of the time. Perfect conditions for condensa=
tion.
When I set up this shop about 15 years ago, I used paste wax about once=
every
month or two. Then every quarter, and finally once a year. So far no =
rust.=20
I think there is a cumulative effect.
--=20
It's turtles, all the way down
Jim Behning (in [email protected]) said:
| They are made of spruce and canvas. Both can rot.
Some are wood, although aluminum and chrome-moly steel are probably
more common these days - and a high-grade Dacron (either bonded to
Mylar or treated with a gel coating for slickness and waterproofing)
seem to be the skins of choice. UV is a greater threat to the skin
than water.
On the other hand, stainless pop rivets are a popular fastener and
I've never quite become comfortable with that.
The wood construction planes I've seen around my shop have all been
dry and rot-free under their skin. I can't recall seeing bare,
unprotected wood on any of them; but I don't know what's used. I'll
have to ask.
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto
They are made of spruce and canvas. Both can rot.
On Wed, 11 Oct 2006 21:53:55 -0400, "Kyle Boatright"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"CW" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> If you knew what goes into an airplane and the way they are made, you
>> might
>> quit flying.
>>
>
>Please enlighten us...
>
"Chris Friesen" wrote
>C & E wrote:
>> I'm thinking that I'm in for a long, stinky weekend and back to the
>> Johnson's Paste Wax (which is still allowing a slow rusting process to
>> take place - very subtly).
>
> I've never used it personally, but I've heard good things about Boeshield.
> It did pretty good in a comparison test in Wood Magazine.
>
> http://www.boeshield.com/index.htm
>
>
I had no idea that this product was originally developed by Boeing aircraft
company. That is where the boe comes from in the name. And they license it
for sale to everybody else.
I guess if it is good enough to make airplanes with, it ought to hold up
well in our basement shops.
CW wrote:
> If you knew what goes into an airplane and the way they are made, you might
> quit flying.
As a guy who participates in his own annual inspection on his "spam
can", and lives in the land of Pratt & Whitney, I agree. <G>
On the other hand, it can be looked at from the point of view that
aircraft are much lower precision than the average bear might think. A
few parts have very close tolerances, but the rest is just typical
machinery.
"Aircraft Quality" is a fanfreakintastic marketing term, though!
Chris Friesen wrote:
> C & E wrote:
>
>> I'm thinking that I'm in for a long, stinky weekend and back to the
>> Johnson's Paste Wax (which is still allowing a slow rusting process to
>> take place - very subtly).
>
>
> I've never used it personally, but I've heard good things about
> Boeshield. It did pretty good in a comparison test in Wood Magazine.
>
> http://www.boeshield.com/index.htm
>
>
> Chris
Boeshield works very well.
Jess.S
"C & E" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I had read about the benefits of using Corrosion-X (vs paste wax), a
>marine-use anti-corrosive, but couldn't find it at the marinas and sporting
>goods stores that I tried (Bass Pro, Gander Mtn, local guys). What I did
>find was Quicksilver Corrosion Guard from Mercury Marine. So, I put a nice
>new fininsh on the TS, BS and jointer and sprayed it on. Well, a week
>later it's still tacky. Not exactly conducive to optimal machine use. I
>called Merc and they said that that was it's normal state. So, the big
>question;
> Instead of wiping this all off with some solvent (they 'didn't know '
> which one but I could 'try' laquer thinner) is it possible to spray it
> with a dryer to get it to set up? I actually don't think this will work
> but, hey, you don't know if you don't ask. I'm thinking that I'm in for a
> long, stinky weekend and back to the Johnson's Paste Wax (which is still
> allowing a slow rusting process to take place - very subtly).
> TIA,
> C
We use canning wax, just rub the block on the the iron.
I haven't seen any heavy jets made from spruce and canvas, have you? Can you
post pictures?
"Jim Behning" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> They are made of spruce and canvas. Both can rot.
>
"CW" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> If you knew what goes into an airplane and the way they are made, you
> might
> quit flying.
>
Please enlighten us...
If you knew what goes into an airplane and the way they are made, you might
quit flying.
"Lee Michaels" <leemichaels*nadaspam*@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I guess if it is good enough to make airplanes with, it ought to hold up
> well in our basement shops.
>
>
>
Mike wrote:
>>> Boeshield works very well.
>>
>> I agree, and I've also been served well by Bostich Top Cote. I usually
>> buy whatever is easier for me to get at the time I run out. <G>
>
> I've really liked Top Cote. Not only does it keep rust from forming,
> but it makes wood slide over the machine surface like it's on ice -
> very nice for jointer tables.
And it smells nice, too!
"Jim Behning" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> They are made of spruce and canvas. Both can rot.
I think that you will find that the only canvas used in aircraft is as seat
upholstery and maybe some interior trim. It's way heavy as a covering
material.
In any case, there are very few aircraft in current production which are
made with wooden structure, and no commercial airliners--airliners used to
be mostly aluminum structure but advanced composites are being used now to
some extent.
> On Wed, 11 Oct 2006 21:53:55 -0400, "Kyle Boatright"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>
>>"CW" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>news:[email protected]...
>>> If you knew what goes into an airplane and the way they are made, you
>>> might
>>> quit flying.
>>>
>>
>>Please enlighten us...
>>
On Thu, 12 Oct 2006 02:23:21 GMT, Jim Behning
<[email protected]> wrote:
>They are made of spruce and canvas. Both can rot.
[...snip...]
Well, I am a pilot that flys small planes, admittedly not all that
much, but that is one type construction I haven't seen around the
airports much.
On the other hand, the planes I fly, say a single engine Cessna or a
Piper or a Grumman, are made to be lightweight and a lot of that metal
will flex: you are supposed to step "here", but not on "this" or
"that". And don't grab "here" to pull your seat forward, but only
"there".
On Wed, 11 Oct 2006 12:10:25 -0400, "C & E" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I had read about the benefits of using Corrosion-X (vs paste wax), a
>marine-use anti-corrosive, but couldn't find it at the marinas and sporting
>goods stores that I tried
snip.
I have used automatic transmission fluid mixed with about 25% kerosene
with good results, then a bit of paste wax from time to time.
Barry Lennox
On Fri, 13 Oct 2006 17:44:27 -0700, Jim Weisgram
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Well, I am a pilot that flys small planes, admittedly not all that
>much, but that is one type construction I haven't seen around the
>airports much.
They're hidden in the hangers, so they don't rot. <G>
TopCote is what you need....
http://www.bostik-us.com/products/index.asp?fa=categories&divisionId=6&categoryId=27
I would remove that Corrosion Guard with kerosene.
C & E wrote:
> I had read about the benefits of using Corrosion-X (vs paste wax), a
> marine-use anti-corrosive, but couldn't find it at the marinas and sporting
> goods stores that I tried (Bass Pro, Gander Mtn, local guys). What I did
> find was Quicksilver Corrosion Guard from Mercury Marine.