I am currently painting two small tables. I had originally planned to
stain them but for several reasons decided to go with paint. I am
using Rustoleum's Painter's Touch (Espresso) and, although a little
drippy for my taste, is going on fairly well.
My question/concern is that although it appears dry, it is easy to
scratch with a fingernail. This will be an issue as these are for
laptop use. I have considered giving them a few final coats of Deft
lacquer but am now hesitant as to if this is the best choice.
The tables are made in two parts, a top and bottom half, which slide
into one another and bolt together. The two halves can be raised or
lowered for height adjustment, the bolts locking them in place. If the
paint scratches so easily now, after approximately three light coats,
I suspect it will only get worse with use.
Does anyone have any suggestions for a durable finish that will not
noticeably scratch and protect the surface? Including from an
accidental fluid spill?? All suggestions welcome.
`Casper
Kelly Moore's Durapoxy water base and holds up well.
I guess they call it something else now but her's tthe link to the
stuff.....smells like blueberrys!
http://www.kellymoore.com/products/pn_7100_envira_poxy
"Casper" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I am currently painting two small tables. I had originally planned to
> stain them but for several reasons decided to go with paint. I am
> using Rustoleum's Painter's Touch (Espresso) and, although a little
> drippy for my taste, is going on fairly well.
>
> My question/concern is that although it appears dry, it is easy to
> scratch with a fingernail. This will be an issue as these are for
> laptop use. I have considered giving them a few final coats of Deft
> lacquer but am now hesitant as to if this is the best choice.
>
> The tables are made in two parts, a top and bottom half, which slide
> into one another and bolt together. The two halves can be raised or
> lowered for height adjustment, the bolts locking them in place. If the
> paint scratches so easily now, after approximately three light coats,
> I suspect it will only get worse with use.
>
> Does anyone have any suggestions for a durable finish that will not
> noticeably scratch and protect the surface? Including from an
> accidental fluid spill?? All suggestions welcome.
>
> `Casper
On Mon, 02 Feb 2009 21:53:22 -0500, Casper <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Does anyone have any suggestions for a durable finish that will not
>noticeably scratch and protect the surface? Including from an
>accidental fluid spill?? All suggestions welcome.
Clear plastic desk pad???
Mike O.
>> ... I will probably go with Woodcraft since there is a store close by and I need to make a trip there anyway.
>>
>> Do I need to thin this out? Or does it go on full strength? ....
>
>Not necessarily. I usually make my first coat a 50/50 varnish/thinner
>mixture. That acts almost like a prime coat. I did buy the Behlin
>thinner, but I think that (less expensive) ordinary thinner works just
>as well. I was just playing it safe with commissioned piece. Maybe
>someone at Woodcraft may know the answer.
>
>> ... I haven't worked with varnish much....
>
>so far, I've used Rockhard on two tables. I doesn't self level as
>easily as most varnishes, and it's best to wait a while before
>rubbing, if that's what you plan to do. See if you can get hold of
>Jeff Jewett's video. There's lots of good information on varnishing.
>
>Good Luck ---
>
>Joel
Joel,
Thanks for the tips. I will definitly look for that video. I have lots
more projects to work on and plan to use varnish more.
`Casper
Casper wrote:
>> Check out - Behlen Rockhard Table Top Varnish
>>
>> A few sources:
>>
>> http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=751&refcode=05INFROO
>>
>> https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=4292
>>
>> http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?Offerings_ID=17265
>>
>> I've got no financial interest, blah, blah, blah ...
>>
>> Joel
>
>
> Joel,
>
> Thanks for the info and links. I will definitly check them out. I will
> probably go with Woodcraft since there is a store close by and I need
> to mke a trip there anyway.
>
> Do I need to thin this out? Or does it go on full strength?? I haven't
> worked with varnish much; just on old windows.
I have some experience with that varnish; yes, I would go with the
assumption that you might need to thin it, at least a bit. Get the
Behlen brand thinner that's *meant* for it; I have tried using regular
mineral spirits and it doesn't work very well (I've had it congeal on
me). You'll want to lay on a good wet coat and keep a "wet edge".
Also, it sands and polishes beautifully, but don't try to lay down a
bunch of really thin coats by way of leveling each one with sandpaper
(unless you're very careful) because if you break through one coat into
another you *will* get witness lines (DAMHIKT). Also, it's a very
glossy finish, so if that's not what you want you'll have to compensate
somehow.
--
Free bad advice available here.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/
Ed Pawlowski wrote:
> "Casper" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> I am currently painting two small tables. I had originally planned to
>> stain them but for several reasons decided to go with paint. I am
>> using Rustoleum's Painter's Touch (Espresso) and, although a little
>> drippy for my taste, is going on fairly well.
>>
>> My question/concern is that although it appears dry, it is easy to
>> scratch with a fingernail. This will be an issue as these are for
>> laptop use. I have considered giving them a few final coats of Deft
>> lacquer but am now hesitant as to if this is the best choice.
>
> Most paints take a week to two to fully cure. The thicker the coats, the
> longer the cure time. See what they are like in that time frame.
>
>
Right, wait a couple weeks for the paint to cure before applying any
topcoat, if that's what you decide to do. In the meantime, the paint
will be soft and easily scratched, a pain when you're moving furniture
back into a newly painted room.
Greg M
"Casper" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I am currently painting two small tables. I had originally planned to
> stain them but for several reasons decided to go with paint. I am
> using Rustoleum's Painter's Touch (Espresso) and, although a little
> drippy for my taste, is going on fairly well.
>
> My question/concern is that although it appears dry, it is easy to
> scratch with a fingernail. This will be an issue as these are for
> laptop use. I have considered giving them a few final coats of Deft
> lacquer but am now hesitant as to if this is the best choice.
Most paints take a week to two to fully cure. The thicker the coats, the
longer the cure time. See what they are like in that time frame.
"Casper" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I am currently painting two small tables. I had originally planned to
> stain them but for several reasons decided to go with paint. I am
> using Rustoleum's Painter's Touch (Espresso) and, although a little
> drippy for my taste, is going on fairly well.
>
> My question/concern is that although it appears dry, it is easy to
> scratch with a fingernail. This will be an issue as these are for
> laptop use. I have considered giving them a few final coats of Deft
> lacquer but am now hesitant as to if this is the best choice.
>
> The tables are made in two parts, a top and bottom half, which slide
> into one another and bolt together. The two halves can be raised or
> lowered for height adjustment, the bolts locking them in place. If the
> paint scratches so easily now, after approximately three light coats,
> I suspect it will only get worse with use.
>
> Does anyone have any suggestions for a durable finish that will not
> noticeably scratch and protect the surface? Including from an
> accidental fluid spill?? All suggestions welcome.
>
> `Casper
What you used, is it water based? Latex paints seldom really harden very
much. You might want to consider using an Alkyd Oil based paint.
> Does anyone have any suggestions for a durable finish that will not
> noticeably scratch and protect the surface? Including from an
> accidental fluid spill?? All suggestions welcome.
Check out - Behlen Rockhard Table Top Varnish
A few sources:
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=751&refcode=05INFROO
https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=4292
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?Offerings_ID=17265
I've got no financial interest, blah, blah, blah ...
Joel
> ... I will probably go with Woodcraft since there is a store close by and I need to make a trip there anyway.
>
> Do I need to thin this out? Or does it go on full strength? ....
Not necessarily. I usually make my first coat a 50/50 varnish/thinner
mixture. That acts almost like a prime coat. I did buy the Behlin
thinner, but I think that (less expensive) ordinary thinner works just
as well. I was just playing it safe with commissioned piece. Maybe
someone at Woodcraft may know the answer.
> ... I haven't worked with varnish much....
so far, I've used Rockhard on two tables. I doesn't self level as
easily as most varnishes, and it's best to wait a while before
rubbing, if that's what you plan to do. See if you can get hold of
Jeff Jewett's video. There's lots of good information on varnishing.
Good Luck ---
Joel
>Kelly Moore's Durapoxy water base and holds up well.
>I guess they call it something else now but her's tthe link to the
>stuff.....smells like blueberrys!
>http://www.kellymoore.com/products/pn_7100_envira_poxy
>Pete Hesse
Blueberries? Now that is cool. This stuff can be used on walls too.
That alone may be worth a trial. I've a few rooms to repaint this
spring. I may even try it out on the inside of my barn. I'm hoping to
clean out my 10'x16' to turn into a workshop.
`Casper
>What you used, is it water based? Latex paints seldom really harden very
>much. You might want to consider using an Alkyd Oil based paint.
>Leon
I used Rustoleum's Painter's Touch ...
http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGBrand.asp?bid=3
I used the "Expresso" color, but label is same ...
http://www.rustoleum.com/cbgimages/documents/PT_12oz_SatinHoney.pdf
Cleanup with mineral spirits, so I'm guessing there is some oil in it.
I can only find a matte and gloss finish in the same product line and
really wanted a semi, but my major concern is the scratching.
Could it be since it is a little colder in the basement that it is
retarding the drying? (50-60 deg) Can says dry in 24 hours.
>Check out - Behlen Rockhard Table Top Varnish
>
>A few sources:
>
>http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=751&refcode=05INFROO
>
>https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=4292
>
>http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?Offerings_ID=17265
>
>I've got no financial interest, blah, blah, blah ...
>
>Joel
Joel,
Thanks for the info and links. I will definitly check them out. I will
probably go with Woodcraft since there is a store close by and I need
to mke a trip there anyway.
Do I need to thin this out? Or does it go on full strength?? I haven't
worked with varnish much; just on old windows.
>Most paints take a week to two to fully cure. The thicker the coats, the
>longer the cure time. See what they are like in that time frame.
>Ed
>Right, wait a couple weeks for the paint to cure before applying any
>topcoat, if that's what you decide to do. In the meantime, the paint
>will be soft and easily scratched, a pain when you're moving furniture
>back into a newly painted room.
>Greg M
I can certainly wait. I was already in the process of waiting at least
48 hours before checking it again. I had hoped to finish one table per
week but I'd rather have them perfect.
`Casper