After a few experiences with the fun and games of finishing a piece
after it all glued up, squeeze out cleaned up and a little sanding where
necessary, the light bulb goes off. "You know, if I'd applied the
finish
to the parts BEFORE glue up - life would've been a lot simpler. No
worries about finish sag. No runs, no drips - no errors - to use a
baseball phrase.".
However - if you go that route you have to be VERY careful not to get
finish on / in the joinery for fear of weakening the joint.
BUT - WHAT IF . . . the joinery could be cut AFTER the finish has been
applied and had time to cure? For most finishes, glue squeeze out
would be easy to take care of - AND - no worrying about a little bit
of glue you didn't even see - 'til you applied the finish.
Yet another, subtle little capability the DOMINO makes possible -
and easy.
I keep "discovering" more about how the DOMINO changes what, how
and when I do things while making a piece. Have you noticed any
not so obvious ways it's changed how you work?
charlie b
On Wed, 27 Jun 2007 11:27:56 -0700, charlieb <[email protected]>
wrote:
>After a few experiences with the fun and games of finishing a piece
>after it all glued up, squeeze out cleaned up and a little sanding where
>necessary, the light bulb goes off. "You know, if I'd applied the
>finish
>to the parts BEFORE glue up - life would've been a lot simpler. No
>worries about finish sag. No runs, no drips - no errors - to use a
>baseball phrase.".
>
>However - if you go that route you have to be VERY careful not to get
>finish on / in the joinery for fear of weakening the joint.
>
>BUT - WHAT IF . . . the joinery could be cut AFTER the finish has been
>applied and had time to cure? For most finishes, glue squeeze out
>would be easy to take care of - AND - no worrying about a little bit
>of glue you didn't even see - 'til you applied the finish.
>
>Yet another, subtle little capability the DOMINO makes possible -
>and easy.
>
>I keep "discovering" more about how the DOMINO changes what, how
>and when I do things while making a piece. Have you noticed any
>not so obvious ways it's changed how you work?
>
>charlie b
More good Domino info. Thanks.
You need to be hooked up with a ww mag that will give you your own
monthly/bimonthly column..........
The Domino Corner by CharlieB
Yeah, that's the ticket!
Wait a minute.... if that happened we would no longer get that info
here in the newsgroup. OK, scratch the Domino Corner.
Leon wrote:
> Have you already discounted Waxilit???
Hey, the DOMINO doesn't do all the joinery I use. It's not THE
ANSWER,
but gets pretty close for a lot of furniture sized loose tenon
mortise
tenon joinery.
> The trouble with refinishing and then cutting the wood is that you often
> scratch the finish when cutting or assembling.
There's nothing on the DOMINO that'll scratch anything and if there
were
a little sand paper or jewelers file work would take care of the
potential
problem.
> Or, I switched to TB III simply for the color that it dries to. It dries to
> a color close to the wood color unlike the taxi cab yellow. If working with
> Walnut and darker woods I use Dark wood glue.
> If you miss a spot it seldom shows.
Got some of the dark brown stuff for just that application. Picked
up some "NEW Formula, Elmer's STAINABLE Wood Glue" - "weather
proof, for interior/exterior use, long set time, contains real wood
fibers for superior staining and sanding".ANSII Type II Water
Resistand
(not for continuous submersion or bleow water line use). Haven't
tried to stain a piece I've used it on - a future To Do to add to my
list.
> Additionally I have better luck if I DO NOT glue around the mortise hole.
> This area tends to have the most squeeze out.
I'm assuming you mean applying glue to the INSIDE of the mortise
as opposed to on the end of the end grain part. If you don't get
glue on the inside faces of the mortise, and only apply glue to the
outside face of the tenon, loose or "real", I'd worry about it being
scraped off the tenon on insertion - the fit is pretty snug.
charlie b
ROY! wrote:
> More good Domino info. Thanks.
No problem ( no worries mate - for the Oz reader).
> You need to be hooked up with a ww mag that will give you your own
> monthly/bimonthly column..........
> The Domino Corner by CharlieB
> Yeah, that's the ticket!
Never happen. I'm never going to work for anyone again - ever.
Been there. Done that. Got the T-shirt. Hell, I'm never going
to "work" again - period. If it ain't fun I'm gone.
> Wait a minute.... if that happened we would no longer get that info
> here in the newsgroup. OK, scratch the Domino Corner.
Maybe Leon wants to take that job.
Leon?
charlie b
"charlieb" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> After a few experiences with the fun and games of finishing a piece
> after it all glued up, squeeze out cleaned up and a little sanding where
> necessary, the light bulb goes off. "You know, if I'd applied the
> finish
> to the parts BEFORE glue up - life would've been a lot simpler. No
> worries about finish sag. No runs, no drips - no errors - to use a
> baseball phrase.".
>
> However - if you go that route you have to be VERY careful not to get
> finish on / in the joinery for fear of weakening the joint.
>
> BUT - WHAT IF . . . the joinery could be cut AFTER the finish has been
> applied and had time to cure? For most finishes, glue squeeze out
> would be easy to take care of - AND - no worrying about a little bit
> of glue you didn't even see - 'til you applied the finish.
>
> Yet another, subtle little capability the DOMINO makes possible -
> and easy.
>
> I keep "discovering" more about how the DOMINO changes what, how
> and when I do things while making a piece. Have you noticed any
> not so obvious ways it's changed how you work?
>
> charlie b
Have you already discounted Waxilit???
The trouble with refinishing and then cutting the wood is that you often
scratch the finish when cutting or assembling.
Or, I switched to TB III simply for the color that it dries to. It dries to
a color close to the wood color unlike the taxi cab yellow. If working with
Walnut and darker woods I use Dark wood glue.
If you miss a spot it seldom shows.
Additionally I have better luck if I DO NOT glue around the mortise hole.
This area tends to have the most squeeze out.
"charlieb" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Leon wrote:
>
>> Have you already discounted Waxilit???
>
> Hey, the DOMINO doesn't do all the joinery I use. It's not THE
> ANSWER,
> but gets pretty close for a lot of furniture sized loose tenon
> mortise
> tenon joinery.
>
>> The trouble with refinishing and then cutting the wood is that you often
>> scratch the finish when cutting or assembling.
>
> There's nothing on the DOMINO that'll scratch anything and if there
> were
> a little sand paper or jewelers file work would take care of the
> potential
> problem.
No, I am talking about refinishing before even cutting a board to length.
If you are onlytalking about finishing before using the Domino, I agree.
>
>> Or, I switched to TB III simply for the color that it dries to. It dries
>> to
>> a color close to the wood color unlike the taxi cab yellow. If working
>> with
>> Walnut and darker woods I use Dark wood glue.
>> If you miss a spot it seldom shows.
>
> Got some of the dark brown stuff for just that application. Picked
> up some "NEW Formula, Elmer's STAINABLE Wood Glue" - "weather
> proof, for interior/exterior use, long set time, contains real wood
> fibers for superior staining and sanding".ANSII Type II Water
> Resistand
> (not for continuous submersion or bleow water line use). Haven't
> tried to stain a piece I've used it on - a future To Do to add to my
> list.
>
>> Additionally I have better luck if I DO NOT glue around the mortise
>> hole.
>> This area tends to have the most squeeze out.
>
> I'm assuming you mean applying glue to the INSIDE of the mortise
> as opposed to on the end of the end grain part. If you don't get
> glue on the inside faces of the mortise, and only apply glue to the
> outside face of the tenon, loose or "real", I'd worry about it being
> scraped off the tenon on insertion - the fit is pretty snug.
Absolutely apply glue to the inside of the mortise, apply glue sparingly to
the end/face around the outside of the mortise hole.
> charlie b