About a year ago I got what I thought was a great deal on a used
Dewalt/B&D Radial arm saw. Good shape, running, dual voltage, $90!
Worked great for about 6 months, and then the motor fried.
Now I'm getting quotes to rebuild the motor for between $300 (small
local shop, may or may not know didly about RAS motors) and $600 (Wolf
Machine, total motor rebuild, THE guys to go to)
So the question is, What should I do?
Take my chances at $300?
Spend the $ and get it done right?
Use the Dewalt as a boat anchor, and buy a new real big SCMS?
Thanx for the Help and advice,
Lex
I would cut my losses at $90 and move forward.
BRuce
lex wrote:
> About a year ago I got what I thought was a great deal on a used
> Dewalt/B&D Radial arm saw. Good shape, running, dual voltage, $90!
>
> Worked great for about 6 months, and then the motor fried.
>
> Now I'm getting quotes to rebuild the motor for between $300 (small
> local shop, may or may not know didly about RAS motors) and $600 (Wolf
> Machine, total motor rebuild, THE guys to go to)
>
> So the question is, What should I do?
> Take my chances at $300?
> Spend the $ and get it done right?
> Use the Dewalt as a boat anchor, and buy a new real big SCMS?
>
> Thanx for the Help and advice,
> Lex
>
--
---
BRuce
Depends on the saw. If it's the classic DeWalt design, I'd get it rebuilt
(though I'd look for a better price). If it's one of the ones designed by the
penny-pinchers at B&D, dump it.
GTO(John)
>About a year ago I got what I thought was a great deal on a used
>Dewalt/B&D Radial arm saw. Good shape, running, dual voltage, $90!
>
>Worked great for about 6 months, and then the motor fried.
>
>Now I'm getting quotes to rebuild the motor for between $300 (small
>local shop, may or may not know didly about RAS motors) and $600 (Wolf
>Machine, total motor rebuild, THE guys to go to)
>
>So the question is, What should I do?
>Take my chances at $300?
>Spend the $ and get it done right?
>Use the Dewalt as a boat anchor, and buy a new real big SCMS?
>
>Thanx for the Help and advice,
>Lex
To rewind the motor, the shop does not have to know anything about radial saws,
they just have to know about motors. I'd do some checking on their references
and have the small local shop rewind it.
Mill
>About a year ago I got what I thought was a great deal on a used
>Dewalt/B&D Radial arm saw. Good shape, running, dual voltage, $90!
>
>Worked great for about 6 months, and then the motor fried.
>
>Now I'm getting quotes to rebuild the motor for between $300 (small
>local shop, may or may not know didly about RAS motors) and $600 (Wolf
>Machine, total motor rebuild, THE guys to go to)
>
>So the question is, What should I do?
>Take my chances at $300?
>Spend the $ and get it done right?
>Use the Dewalt as a boat anchor, and buy a new real big SCMS?
>
>Thanx for the Help and advice,
>Lex
On Thu, 13 Nov 2003 08:10:49 GMT, "Michael Daly"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I know this is naive, but consider it a serious question.
>
>When I was a kid, everyone was rewinding their own slot car motors for speed.
>If I could understand that when I was 12, why can't an adult rewind his own motor
>- even if it's, say, 2 hp? What's so critical to know?
>
>IIRC, select the gauge, wrap tight, make sure the #wraps are the same on each
>whatchamacallit, paint with some kinda varnish to keep the thing from throwing
>wire and balance.
>
>Mike
>(PS I may have messed with small DC motors, but never pulled apart a 120VAC
>motor...)
It IS possible, but certain tools that confirm proper winding and
motor efficiency may not be at your disposal. Proper winding involves
megging the old unit, counting old windings, gauge, and wrap
technique, burning off the old core material (usually in a furnace
with precise temp controls ~220degrees). Then reinsulating,
rewinding, tieing off the windings, megging again to confirm success,
and either drip coating (not so good), dip coating (better) or vacuum
impregnating (best) the armature, stator, field coils, or whatever,
with motor varnish and baking - sometimes repeating this process.
Then the motor is bench tested to confirm proper operation and current
draw before use.
A good rebuilder usually (should?) have the necessary equipment to do
the job properly. Improper winding technique, insulating materials,
core lamination degradation from overheating, etc. can cause
subsequent motor failure if not dealt with properly.
Good luck finding the proper vanishes, I have not found any suppliers
that will sell to an individual. The varnishing is very important, as
it holds the windings stationary, protecting them from vibration and
abrasion - it's insulating properties are secondary. I recently had
to venture into this area because of a crappy IN-WARRANTY Delta
product that the MFG refuses to adequately service. The replacement
motor for the unit in question was cheapened in design so badly, I
refused to put it on. Local rebuilders didn't want to mess with it,
and being proprietary, I couldn't get a replacement. So I rewound it
myself.
<vent on>
In case anyone cares, the unit in question is a 34-600 table saw. The
original motor design had a 12" long, 3/4" diameter belt-driven
counter-shaft riding in large, standard bearings on each end. All of
this was part of the heavy motor casing design. The replacement "Type
2" motor sent by Delta/PC for warranty replacement is a glorified
circular saw motor from a TS300 saw. One third the weight, with a
tiny jackshaft, totally powerless, and the arbor shaft is less than 2
inches long! (not including the blade mounting). I expect this motor
would last about a month with a dado blade mounted before it let go
and went flying across the room. FWIW, DON'T buy a TS300!
I complained to Delta/PC, but have not heard a peep as of yet. So I
guess my next saw will probably be a Griz or Jet. If I'm buying
Taiwanese or Chinese, I might as well go directly to the source and
save myself the aggravation of dealing with a non-responsive company.
</vent off>
Good Luck,
Greg
"lex" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> About a year ago I got what I thought was a great deal on a used
> Dewalt/B&D Radial arm saw. Good shape, running, dual voltage, $90!
>
> Worked great for about 6 months, and then the motor fried.
Ask these guys: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start
On 12-Nov-2003, [email protected] (MP Toolman) wrote:
> To rewind the motor, the shop does not have to know anything about radial saws,
> they just have to know about motors. I'd do some checking on their references
> and have the small local shop rewind it.
I know this is naive, but consider it a serious question.
When I was a kid, everyone was rewinding their own slot car motors for speed.
If I could understand that when I was 12, why can't an adult rewind his own motor
- even if it's, say, 2 hp? What's so critical to know?
IIRC, select the gauge, wrap tight, make sure the #wraps are the same on each
whatchamacallit, paint with some kinda varnish to keep the thing from throwing
wire and balance.
Mike
(PS I may have messed with small DC motors, but never pulled apart a 120VAC
motor...)
Sounds like a bit exorbitant for your quote.
You might try another local shop. Its maybe a half day work. Even at a shop
rate of $50, that would only be $200.
Rick
"lex" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
> About a year ago I got what I thought was a great deal on a used
> Dewalt/B&D Radial arm saw. Good shape, running, dual voltage, $90!
>
> Worked great for about 6 months, and then the motor fried.
>
> Now I'm getting quotes to rebuild the motor for between $300 (small
> local shop, may or may not know didly about RAS motors) and $600 (Wolf
> Machine, total motor rebuild, THE guys to go to)
>
> So the question is, What should I do?
> Take my chances at $300?
> Spend the $ and get it done right?
> Use the Dewalt as a boat anchor, and buy a new real big SCMS?
>
> Thanx for the Help and advice,
> Lex
>
I deal with quite a few electrical service shops and, to me, $300 to rewind the
motor does not seem unreasonable. That is why most standard industrial AC
motors under 50 HP or so are considered "throw aways". The bigger, better
shops probably have rates closer to $100 per hour -- and probably do not even
want to mess with a little motor like this.
If this is an old style cast iron Dewalt saw, it is worth fixing -- or selling.
I have a 12" Dewalt, Model GP if I remember correctly, that I would rewind if
it ever burns up.
Mill
>
>Sounds like a bit exorbitant for your quote.
>
>You might try another local shop. Its maybe a half day work. Even at a shop
>rate of $50, that would only be $200.
>
>Rick
Mark-Not to be too sarcastic-but I'm sure a motor guy would say whats
the big deal about cutting some wood,glueing it together,slapping a
finish on it and calling it furniture? Almost anything could be done
by anyone if we all knew everything! :) I worked in a rewind shop and
while not rocket science it does require special tools and skill.
Keith
"Mark Jerde" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> MP Toolman wrote:
> > I deal with quite a few electrical service shops and, to me, $300 to
> > rewind the motor does not seem unreasonable. That is why most
> > standard industrial AC motors under 50 HP or so are considered "throw
> > aways". The bigger, better shops probably have rates closer to $100
> > per hour -- and probably do not even want to mess with a little motor
> > like this.
> >
> > If this is an old style cast iron Dewalt saw, it is worth fixing --
> > or selling. I have a 12" Dewalt, Model GP if I remember correctly,
> > that I would rewind if it ever burns up.
>
> What's the big deal about rewinding? Isn't is just a certain number of
> wraps of insulated wire?
>
> My late great uncle was an electrical engineer from c. 1930 - 1968. He told
> me about rewinding entire generators. The key, IIRC, was keeping track of
> the number of wraps.
>
> Perhaps people think the shops do "magic" when in fact there is none...
> Just asking.
>
> -- Mark
MP Toolman wrote:
> I deal with quite a few electrical service shops and, to me, $300 to
> rewind the motor does not seem unreasonable. That is why most
> standard industrial AC motors under 50 HP or so are considered "throw
> aways". The bigger, better shops probably have rates closer to $100
> per hour -- and probably do not even want to mess with a little motor
> like this.
>
> If this is an old style cast iron Dewalt saw, it is worth fixing --
> or selling. I have a 12" Dewalt, Model GP if I remember correctly,
> that I would rewind if it ever burns up.
What's the big deal about rewinding? Isn't is just a certain number of
wraps of insulated wire?
My late great uncle was an electrical engineer from c. 1930 - 1968. He told
me about rewinding entire generators. The key, IIRC, was keeping track of
the number of wraps.
Perhaps people think the shops do "magic" when in fact there is none...
Just asking.
-- Mark