Question regarding solvent based contact cement

>The instructions also say to "assemble glued parts at
> or above 65 degrees". I would like to put the cement on in my garage where
> the fumes can dissipate but right now my garage is 40 degrees. So here is
> my question: do you think assemble means just that and that I can apply
> the
> contact cement in 40 degree temps and then bring it back to the warmer
> basement once the cement has gotten tacky? If not, what do you suggest I
> do
> (and please don't say that I should wait until next summer!)?

You could try keeping the items to be glued, as well as the glue itself in a
warm room. Maybe even heat up the glue container in some hot water till it's
about 80 degrees or so. Move everything to the garage, apply the glue there,
and if you have one or two 1000 watt worklights position them over the items
to keep them warm. Once most of the solvent has flashed off you can bring
everything inside for assembly at the correct temps.

"Dick Snyder" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I have to apply some high pressure laminate to MDF using solvent based
> contact cement. The instructions say to do in a well ventilated area which
> makes a LOT of sense. The instructions also say to "assemble glued parts
> at
> or above 65 degrees". I would like to put the cement on in my garage where
> the fumes can dissipate but right now my garage is 40 degrees. So here is
> my question: do you think assemble means just that and that I can apply
> the
> contact cement in 40 degree temps and then bring it back to the warmer
> basement once the cement has gotten tacky? If not, what do you suggest I
> do
> (and please don't say that I should wait until next summer!)?

I did this about 20 years ago with a solvent based adhesive in a cold
environment. I recall the glue being THICK and hard to spread evenly in
those low temperatures. The glue up came out OK but I think I would not
read too much into the instructions. Assuming that you can apply adhesive
at 40 degrees and assemble at 65 degrees may be an unreasonable assumption.
The adhesive may dry out too much by the time the wood warms up 25 degrees.
If it were me I would assume that 65 degrees is the lowest temp to work with
the material PERIOD.

In article <[email protected]>, "Dick Snyder" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"Dave W" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> Why not use contact cement that does not have solvent? Otherwise its take
>> the parts to Florida on vacation, assemble and enjoy.
>> Dave

>I was planning to use solvent based contact cement because I have some. I
>have not used water based. Does anyone in this group have experience with
>that and if so, can you share your experience both good and bad?

Yes, I'll be happy to. I recently used both Titebond neoprene contact cement,

http://www.woodcraft.com/Woodcraft/product_family.
asp?family%5Fid=4611&gift=False&mscssid=00BE784FAC67E74E5BBEBAD84D9F75B5

and DAP non-flammable contact cement

http://www.dap.com/retail/retail_detail.cfm?catid=4&subcatid=8&prodhdrid=37

for exactly the same application as you: laminating Formica to MDF. It was
important for me to have an adhesive that could safely be used indoors,
because the sections of countertop I had to laminate were too large to easily
carry back and forth to the garage, and I needed to be able to do them in
place.

Both of these products are water-based, with very very low odor. Both are easy
to apply, clean up readily with water, and form a good strong bond.

But there are some differences, and IMO the DAP product is *far* superior.
They both take about 30-45 minutes to dry, but the Titebond has a *much*
narrower window for assembling the pieces (about 20 minutes, versus two to
three hours for the DAP). The DAP is easier to spread, and it seems to require
a little less cement to make the bond. The DAP costs $9 at Lowe's, versus
$14.50 for the Titebond at Woodcraft.

But the biggest point in favor of the DAP is that it goes on white, and dries
nearly clear. The Titebond goes on blue, and it *dries* blue -- leaving a very
fine, but visible, blue line at the edge of the lamination. I'll never use it
again.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)

Get a copy of my NEW AND IMPROVED TrollFilter for NewsProxy/Nfilter
by sending email to autoresponder at filterinfo-at-milmac-dot-com
You must use your REAL email address to get a response.

Why not use contact cement that does not have solvent? Otherwise its take
the parts to Florida on vacation, assemble and enjoy.
Dave

"Dave W" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Why not use contact cement that does not have solvent? Otherwise its take
> the parts to Florida on vacation, assemble and enjoy.
> Dave
>
>
I was planning to use solvent based contact cement because I have some. I
have not used water based. Does anyone in this group have experience with
that and if so, can you share your experience both good and bad?

Thanks.

Dick

...I think you'll be alright, applying the contact cement at that
temperature....it will obviously take a little longer for it to tack up, but
I doubt you'll have any grief, especially if you're going to let it "cure"
in a more controlled environment.

Cheers,

aw

This was extremely helpful. Thanks Doug!

Dick
"Doug Miller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article <[email protected]>, "Dick Snyder"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>"Dave W" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>news:[email protected]...
>>> Why not use contact cement that does not have solvent? Otherwise its
>>> take
>>> the parts to Florida on vacation, assemble and enjoy.
>>> Dave
>
>>I was planning to use solvent based contact cement because I have some. I
>>have not used water based. Does anyone in this group have experience with
>>that and if so, can you share your experience both good and bad?
>
> Yes, I'll be happy to. I recently used both Titebond neoprene contact
> cement,
>
> http://www.woodcraft.com/Woodcraft/product_family.
> asp?family%5Fid=4611&gift=False&mscssid=00BE784FAC67E74E5BBEBAD84D9F75B5
>
> and DAP non-flammable contact cement
>
> http://www.dap.com/retail/retail_detail.cfm?catid=4&subcatid=8&prodhdrid=37
>
> for exactly the same application as you: laminating Formica to MDF. It was
> important for me to have an adhesive that could safely be used indoors,
> because the sections of countertop I had to laminate were too large to
> easily
> carry back and forth to the garage, and I needed to be able to do them in
> place.
>
> Both of these products are water-based, with very very low odor. Both are
> easy
> to apply, clean up readily with water, and form a good strong bond.
>
> But there are some differences, and IMO the DAP product is *far* superior.
> They both take about 30-45 minutes to dry, but the Titebond has a *much*
> narrower window for assembling the pieces (about 20 minutes, versus two to
> three hours for the DAP). The DAP is easier to spread, and it seems to
> require
> a little less cement to make the bond. The DAP costs $9 at Lowe's, versus
> $14.50 for the Titebond at Woodcraft.
>
> But the biggest point in favor of the DAP is that it goes on white, and
> dries
> nearly clear. The Titebond goes on blue, and it *dries* blue -- leaving a
> very
> fine, but visible, blue line at the edge of the lamination. I'll never use
> it
> again.
>
> --
> Regards,
> Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
>
> Get a copy of my NEW AND IMPROVED TrollFilter for NewsProxy/Nfilter
> by sending email to autoresponder at filterinfo-at-milmac-dot-com
> You must use your REAL email address to get a response.
>
>

>If it were me I would assume that 65 degrees is the lowest temp to work
with
the material PERIOD.

Agree.

--

Rumpty

Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

"A Dubya" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> ...I think you'll be alright, applying the contact cement at that
> temperature....it will obviously take a little longer for it to tack up,
but
> I doubt you'll have any grief, especially if you're going to let it "cure"
> in a more controlled environment.




One would assume that the contact cement would be stored in a warm place,
until it had to be applied......and this seems to be an option (eg. do the
setup, prep, dry run...go into the house get the contact cement and apply
it....let it tack (tack time will be a little longer), assemble the
conponents, bring them into the house to cure......

Cheers