stryped wrote:
> If I have a project like making a small drawer and I need several
> pieces the same size as in the font sides and back, how can I insure
> each piece of wood I cut from rough cut lumber is the same size? Also I
> it best to cut the rough lumber to size, then plane it with the power
> planer?
In general:
1) Joint one face.
2) Joint one edge, using the jointed face against the fence.
3) Plane to thickness
4) RIp to width
5) Crosscut to length.
Steps two and three may be reversed. It is largely a matter
of personal preference.
It may be prefereable to reverse steps four and five if the
finished pieces are fairly long. If you crosscut before you
rip be sure to use the jointed edge against the datum for
the tool you are using to crosscut.
Consistency is obtained by, at each stage in the process,
working all of the stock to be prepared to the same dimension
plus adequare spare material to make up for goofs, before
moving to the next step.
E.g. if some of your pieces need to be 4" wide, set the fence
to 4" and rip all of the 4" stock you are going to need to
complete the project before resetting the fence.
If you are crosscutting with the miter guage on a table saw do
NOT use the rip fence for a stop to set the length. That is
do NOT butt the end of the board on the fence and then slide it
through the blade with the miter gauge. That will kick the
board back. You CAN use an auxillary half-fence that stops
well short of the blade. Some rip fences can be adjusted to
do this, for others you can clamp another board on the fence,
but it should be a thick board so that if the cutoff oart of the stock
cocks it does not get pinched across its diagonal between the
blade and the rip fence.
A crosscut sled really is best for this.
Also, if you buy s4s stock keep in mind that the standard dimensions
are a minimum. 1" nominal softwood should be at least 3/4" thick,
it is allowed to be thicker so individual boards stocked and sold
together may vary.
--
FF
Joe Tylicki wrote:
> Maybe I'm the only one who does this, but I often rip 1/32 wide and
> "edgeplane" to exact width. Results vary depending on grain direction, i.e.
> if grain reverses, you will get a cleaner edge from your table saw blade
> then the planer knives.
>
Fopr smaller peices this was traditionally called 'blocking in" and
was done with a block plane.
--
FF
Maybe I'm the only one who does this, but I often rip 1/32 wide and
"edgeplane" to exact width. Results vary depending on grain direction, i.e.
if grain reverses, you will get a cleaner edge from your table saw blade
then the planer knives.
This works fine on my Ridgid, but my new Delta 15" arrives next week and the
more industrial infeed rollers may not work as well.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> stryped wrote:
>> If I have a project like making a small drawer and I need several
>> pieces the same size as in the font sides and back, how can I insure
>> each piece of wood I cut from rough cut lumber is the same size? Also I
>> it best to cut the rough lumber to size, then plane it with the power
>> planer?
>
> In general:
>
> 1) Joint one face.
>
> 2) Joint one edge, using the jointed face against the fence.
>
> 3) Plane to thickness
>
> 4) RIp to width
>
> 5) Crosscut to length.
>
> Steps two and three may be reversed. It is largely a matter
> of personal preference.
>
> It may be prefereable to reverse steps four and five if the
> finished pieces are fairly long. If you crosscut before you
> rip be sure to use the jointed edge against the datum for
> the tool you are using to crosscut.
>
> Consistency is obtained by, at each stage in the process,
> working all of the stock to be prepared to the same dimension
> plus adequare spare material to make up for goofs, before
> moving to the next step.
>
> E.g. if some of your pieces need to be 4" wide, set the fence
> to 4" and rip all of the 4" stock you are going to need to
> complete the project before resetting the fence.
>
>
> If you are crosscutting with the miter guage on a table saw do
> NOT use the rip fence for a stop to set the length. That is
> do NOT butt the end of the board on the fence and then slide it
> through the blade with the miter gauge. That will kick the
> board back. You CAN use an auxillary half-fence that stops
> well short of the blade. Some rip fences can be adjusted to
> do this, for others you can clamp another board on the fence,
> but it should be a thick board so that if the cutoff oart of the stock
> cocks it does not get pinched across its diagonal between the
> blade and the rip fence.
>
> A crosscut sled really is best for this.
>
> Also, if you buy s4s stock keep in mind that the standard dimensions
> are a minimum. 1" nominal softwood should be at least 3/4" thick,
> it is allowed to be thicker so individual boards stocked and sold
> together may vary.
>
> --
>
> FF
>