I'm looking to make 2 or 3 small boxes out of cherry, about 10" by 10"
by 12".
I have a bandsaw, and was thinking of resawing cherry.
Or I can buy some thin stock.
Any recommendations? Is it a waste of my time to try to master resawing?
Any recommendations for 1/4" by 10" by 36" cherry stock?
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On 30 Dec 2004 16:30:22 GMT, Bruce Barnett
<[email protected]> calmly ranted:
>
>I'm looking to make 2 or 3 small boxes out of cherry, about 10" by 10"
>by 12".
>
>I have a bandsaw, and was thinking of resawing cherry.
>Or I can buy some thin stock.
>
>Any recommendations? Is it a waste of my time to try to master resawing?
>
>Any recommendations for 1/4" by 10" by 36" cherry stock?
I take it that you have either a large bandsaw or a riser on a smaller
one? Good.
Make the boards yourself. Learning how to resaw doesn't take much time
at all. Some tips:
1) Build a tall fence which is perfectly vertical. (Hint: if you cut
triangular boards, the fence isn't quite vertical.) Verify with a
pair of calipers.
2) Practice on SCRAPS first.
3) Draw a line down the edge of a piece of wood you want to resaw and
cut freehand (without the fence) about halfway down the length of the
board. This will show you the blade angle. Draw a line on the table
with a pencil to remember the angle.
4) Set the fence to this angle. Now you can slab wood!
5) Use a featherboard to keep the wood against the fence and pay
attention while you cut.
6) Don't try to make paper-thin veneer like the crap on the market.
It's hell to work with and totally unforgiving for mistakes,
especially for miters and sanding. 3/32 or 1/8" is my aim.
7) Keep the area in front of the bandsaw dust-free. You don't want to
slip into 10 inches of exposed, spinning bandsaw blade. It'll take an
arm off in about half a second. Dust collectors help.
8) If you don't own one, wish that you had a drum sander to finish the
slabs.
Have fun!
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Bruce,
I am making a scrollsawn clock from 1/4" cherry boards that I
resawed from some 4/4 boards. I just recently got the G0555 from Grizz
and a timberwolf blade, and had no problem resawing some 8-9" planks
with it. (This was my first time resawing, and also my first time using
a bandsaw at all). Just build yourself a 'point fence'. Since you will
(I assume) plane them after resawing, you don't have to be a master at
resawing to get some decent boards. 2 1/4" boards from a 4/4 board
leaves some decent wiggle room.
-Rob
Bruce Barnett wrote:
> I'm looking to make 2 or 3 small boxes out of cherry, about 10" by
10"
> by 12".
>
> I have a bandsaw, and was thinking of resawing cherry.
> Or I can buy some thin stock.
>
> Any recommendations? Is it a waste of my time to try to master
resawing?
>
> Any recommendations for 1/4" by 10" by 36" cherry stock?
>
>
> --
> Sending unsolicited commercial e-mail to this account incurs a fee of
> $500 per message, and acknowledges the legality of this contract.
Bruce Barnett wrote:
> I'm looking to make 2 or 3 small boxes out of cherry, about 10" by
10"
> by 12".
>
> I have a bandsaw, and was thinking of resawing cherry.
> Or I can buy some thin stock.
>
> Any recommendations? Is it a waste of my time to try to master
resawing?
>
> Any recommendations for 1/4" by 10" by 36" cherry stock?
Definitely resaw. It's not difficult to learn to resaw at all.
The big benefit to resawing is in grain matching on the box sides. If
you plan the resaw correctly, you can end up with two sides that are
continuous with grain around two corners, and bookmatched at the other
two corners.
To do it, you joint one side of some 4/4 stock. Resaw the stock in
half. Plane to thickness. Crosscut the boards like this:
---------------------------------------------
| | |
| Front | Rt side |
| | |
---------------------------------------------
---------------------------------------------
| | |
| Lft side | Back |
| | |
---------------------------------------------
Hope that helps.
Nate
In article <[email protected]>, Bruce Barnett
<[email protected]> wrote:
> I'm looking to make 2 or 3 small boxes out of cherry, about 10" by 10"
> by 12".
>
> I have a bandsaw, and was thinking of resawing cherry.
> Or I can buy some thin stock.
>
> Any recommendations? Is it a waste of my time to try to master resawing?
>
> Any recommendations for 1/4" by 10" by 36" cherry stock?
I just posted pix of a cherry jewelry box I made for my daughter on
abpw... I bought 4/4 stock and resawed, then planed it to 3/8.
djb
In article <[email protected]>, Bruce Barnett
<[email protected]> wrote:
> And others. I don't have a planer, but I'm pretty good with a belt sander.
> I'll give resawing a try...
Check your yellow pages. There's a shop here that will let you play
with their stuff for about $30 CDN an hour...
"Bruce Barnett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>
> Thanks, Rob, skeezics, Mike G and Dave Balderstone.
>
> And others. I don't have a planer, but
But that was this morning. Now you have god reason to buy one!
In article <[email protected]>, spamhater103
[email protected] says...
>
> I'm looking to make 2 or 3 small boxes out of cherry, about 10" by 10"
> by 12".
>
> I have a bandsaw, and was thinking of resawing cherry.
> Or I can buy some thin stock.
>
> Any recommendations? Is it a waste of my time to try to master resawing?
>
> Any recommendations for 1/4" by 10" by 36" cherry stock?
>
>
>
Learning a new skill which will likely come in handy at other times
hardly seems to be wasting time
--
Mike G.
Heirloom Woods
[email protected]
www.heirloom-woods.net
Bruce Barnett <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> This brings up another problem I haven't solved.
>
> There will be two "doors" on either end. (It's a long story to explain
> why, and off-topic). Both open out. But if I match the grain around
> the sides, I have to cut a square hole in the middle of each 10" by
> 10" board. And then I don't think I can have the doors with matching
> grain.
>
My wife is telling me it's time to go over to her mother's house, so I'll
keep this brief, and you can ask some more questions later, if you haven't
figured it out already...
One method of making box lids grain match involves cutting the lid off of a
closed box with a very sharp, thin kerf saw blade. I use a table saw, but
others, whose bandsaws are better tuned than mine, claim they can do it
with theirs. If you were to build your box, and then slice _two_ lids off,
the resulting glue lines, in most woods, would be _almost_ imperceptible,
in all but the most figured woods. While the box is apart, you could cut
your door openings, carefully, and then reglue, trimming your doors for
height as needed.
And if you were to plan your bookmatch carefully, who knows?
This method is also used for matching a drawer front in a table, such as a
hall table or huntboard.
Gotta go! Have fun!
Patriarch
Bruce Barnett <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> "Nate Perkins" <[email protected]> writes:
>
>> The big benefit to resawing is in grain matching on the box sides.
>
> This brings up another problem I haven't solved.
> There will be two "doors" on either end. (It's a long story to explain
> why, and off-topic). Both open out. But if I match the grain around
> the sides, I have to cut a square hole in the middle of each 10" by
> 10" board. And then I don't think I can have the doors with matching
> grain.
...
I'm not sure that I completely understand what you mean ... but it sounds
like you could cut them to bookmatch and then use your scrollsaw to cut the
doors. With a fine scrollsaw blade the kerf will be minimal. You could
even tilt the table on your scrollsaw slightly as you do the cut so that no
airgap would be visible (e.g., as is done with scrollsawn marquetry).
Also, for thin mitered joints you might want to consider a tablesawn key as
a reinforcement.
Sounds like a fun project. Good luck!
>>>> And others. I don't have a planer, but
>>>
>>>
>>> But that was this morning. Now you have good reason to buy one!
>>
>>Grin. That was one of the reasons I asked about re-sawing vs. buying
>>thin stock.
>>
>>What do you call someone who spends $800 to save $10 on
>>materials?
>
>>.......................... A woodworker.
>
> A HAPPY Woodworker.
>
who plans ahead! And you will pay less per board foot for 4/4 or 5/4
cherry than you will for 'craft wood'.
I could go through the whole economic argument as to why you _need_ a
planer, but, although I know where the chalk is, there's no easily
available chalkboard.
Of course, if you were to drop by one of the many recent handplane threads,
you could likely talk yourself into spending a lot more on handplanes, too.
Aren't we helpful? ;-)
Patriarch
On 30 Dec 2004 16:30:22 GMT, Bruce Barnett
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>I'm looking to make 2 or 3 small boxes out of cherry, about 10" by 10"
>by 12".
>
>I have a bandsaw, and was thinking of resawing cherry.
>Or I can buy some thin stock.
>
>Any recommendations? Is it a waste of my time to try to master resawing?
>
not at all. if you got 3/4 material you can resaw it plane it and get
twice the material from the same board. resawing is not all that
dificult. also the pieces will be bookmatched making the project look
better IMO.
>Any recommendations for 1/4" by 10" by 36" cherry stock?
if you buy 5/4 stock and go slowly you can get 3 finnished 1/4 pieces
from one board.
skeez
"Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> writes:
> "Bruce Barnett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> And others. I don't have a planer, but
>
>
> But that was this morning. Now you have good reason to buy one!
Grin. That was one of the reasons I asked about re-sawing vs. buying
thin stock.
What do you call someone who spends $800 to save $10 on
materials?
.......................... A woodworker.
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Larry Jaques <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> writes:
> Make the boards yourself. Learning how to resaw doesn't take much time
> at all. Some tips:
Thanks, Larry. Looks like good advice.
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"Nate Perkins" <[email protected]> writes:
> The big benefit to resawing is in grain matching on the box sides.
Ah. Yes. That will look much nicer. Thanks, Nate.
This brings up another problem I haven't solved.
There will be two "doors" on either end. (It's a long story to explain
why, and off-topic). Both open out. But if I match the grain around
the sides, I have to cut a square hole in the middle of each 10" by
10" board. And then I don't think I can have the doors with matching
grain.
Either the ends are made from one piece of wood (I have to cut a
square 8" by 8" hole in a 10" by 10" board), or from pieces (miter 4
1" wide pieces together.) This is 1/4" thick wood.
Problems with one piece:
If I try to cut out a square piece, I'll have the waste of the
saw kerf. I'm not sure how to attempt this. I do have a 1940 Walker
Turner scroll saw.
Problems with four pieces of wood:
I suppose I can glue the ends I miter together. Making splines
in 1/4" stock would be hard.
I was going to try the 4 piece method, unless someone has a better
idea. So there goes the bookmatch advantage. :-(
Hmm. I suppose I could cut the ends like a bandsaw box, and re-glue
it. Cut two pieces horizontally, then take the middle, and cut two
pieces vertically. But then the ends will no longer be perfectly
bookmatched.
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On 31 Dec 2004 02:49:59 GMT, Bruce Barnett
<[email protected]> calmly ranted:
>"Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> writes:
>
>> "Bruce Barnett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>> And others. I don't have a planer, but
>>
>>
>> But that was this morning. Now you have good reason to buy one!
>
>Grin. That was one of the reasons I asked about re-sawing vs. buying
>thin stock.
>
>What do you call someone who spends $800 to save $10 on
>materials?
>.......................... A woodworker.
A HAPPY Woodworker.
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Ban SUVs today! -|- Full Service Websites