I went and previewed the tools:
They Have a (Stanley) Bailey #8 plane (24") in excellent conditon. I've
own it's 9" and 14" cousins, I wonder whether I need this one? I know it's
called a "jointer", but would I find it useful more generally for smoothing?
Dewalt 705 Compound Miter Saw (if it has dust collector, it wasn't
attached). Will take another look tomorrow. I suspect it would be handy
sometime. I would bid on it if the price is really right. What would you
pay?
Any thoughts?
It's not all about "need", "want" counts too right? :)
"Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
>
>
> I glued the drawer support today with epoxy and three 3" C-clamps,
> glued alternately,
> along the 5" crack. I was sort of proud of the way it looked there on
> the driveway resting
> on two C-clamps, but no one came by to notice. Without the knowledge
> I have learned from this
> forum I would not have done it nearly as well. The labor was in
> removing the piece (held by screws
> with a square rather than hex shaped opening).
That means you've still got your clamps. In some neighborhoods, if you
turn you back for a second they'll steal your clamps and leave your
project sitting on cinder blocks! lol
> Due to a little wood which has been lost, remaking the piece someday
> is a possibility. I'll just need
> a table saw and a router table and I'll need to enrich my vocabulary
> to talk about the wood I'll need
> to remove on each side of the support/slat (shaped like a "V resting
> on it's side"). Nothing like hand-crafting
> repairs to manufactured furniture, eh? On the positive side this
> provides motivation to get a router.
> I was thinking of the Grizzly 1023SLW TS which has a router table on
> it's extension table. Of course, seeing
> Mike get a "Gloat!-deal" today on his Delta TS makes me want to search
> for a great deal too! Never
> know what will show up at the "Wednesday Auction", but I haven't run
> across a nice TS yet--plenty
> of Very Old Craftsman TSs that I doubt merit the investment in a new
> blade. The auction basically
> sells "estate stuff".
>
> I'm continuing to work towards grinding the garage floor. I spread
> several bags of grass seed and
> fertilizer and 6 40# bags of topsoil on the lawn in the last two days
> after hand-pulling about six 35 gallon garbage
> bags full of crab grass. It looked "green enough" but the crab grass
> bothered me. It doesn't appear
> to bother my neighbors on either side as much. Getting to that "empty
> garage floor" stage seemed like an
> ominous task, but I try to do "something" everyday which gets me
> closer. I started using a spreadsheet to manage
> my projects (sequence of procedures, necessary tools, and my $-outlay)
> and that has greatly improved my outlook.
> I recommend an approach like this to anyone trying to balance
> everything in their head (if you don't like
> technology, then use lots of paper). There is something satisfying
> about checking things off to see the progress.
I'll tell you a little secret... When you do get that garage floor empty,
don't let it stay empty. Fill it up with stuff that's easy to move.
That way, it looks full so no one fills up your empty space!
I've been doing that since I cleaned out the garage this spring. It
looks much better than the "random warehouse" look. Since I don't have
to wait for daylight and nice days, I've been using my table saw much
more than I ever did before!
> Happy Labor Day!
> Bill
Puckdropper
--
"The potential difference between the top and bottom of a tree is the
reason why all trees have to be grounded..." -- Bored Borg on
rec.woodworking
To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm
On Wed, 02 Sep 2009 21:55:49 -0500, Steve Turner wrote:
>> I was delighted to hear the silence as the auctioneer did his thing.
>> It's a Bailey #8, and feels great in my hand--not sure whether it is
>> pre war or not (do you know a quick way to tell?)--I'll do my homework
>> on that.
>
> I'm curious to hear just what type of #8 you snagged for $25 (you suck,
> by the way).
Boy, does he suck!
--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw
"Jim Weisgram" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> Gorilla Glue had poor results on loose joints and was overall the
> weakest.
So what, if anything *is* it good for? Mostly, although never having used
it, I believed it was a effective, strong, glue. I guess I fell for the name
and the advertising crapola.
"Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I went and previewed the tools:
>
> They Have a (Stanley) Bailey #8 plane (24") in excellent conditon. I've
> own it's 9" and 14" cousins, I wonder whether I need this one? I know
> it's called a "jointer", but would I find it useful more generally for
> smoothing?
>
You would find it used to make boards incredibly straight and making glue
joints that will rub together and make up without clamps. :-)
"Bill" wrote:
Wednesday Auction?
Where I come from that meant livestock.
> Now I need some small clamps to make minor drawer-related repairs to
> a dresser I bought which my wife and I Really Need (one dresser got
> broken
> in our recent move and I let another die of natural causes during
> the same move).
> I should have taken Lew's advice and bought a few small clamps
> already.
> Is there an advantage to Tite-bond glue over Elmers Glue for
> repairing a drawer
> support which has cracked?
I like epoxy and/or epoxy fairing putty for that type of repair.
Lew
"Bill" wrote:
> Dewalt 705 Compound Miter Saw (if it has dust collector, it wasn't
> attached). Will take another look tomorrow. I suspect it would be
> handy sometime. I would bid on it if the price is really right.
> What would you pay?
You can by a new DeWalt 10" for $199.
705 is not a current model.
$75, MAYBE?
Lew
On Sep 2, 6:13=A0am, Steve Turner <[email protected]> wrote:
> Bill wrote:
> > I went and previewed the tools:
>
> > They Have a (Stanley) Bailey #8 plane (24") in excellent conditon. =A0 =
I've
> > own it's 9" and 14" cousins, I wonder whether I need this one?
>
> What kind of question is that? =A0Of *course* you need it! =A0:-)
>
> > I know it's
> > called a "jointer", but would I find it useful more generally for smoot=
hing?
>
> I wouldn't use it for that; too heavy. =A0Your smoother is generally goin=
g to be your most
> finely tuned plane, with a tight mouth and razor-sharp cutter, adjusted t=
o cut shavings
> thinner than a piece of paper. =A0Not that your jointer shouldn't be razo=
r-sharp as well, but
> if you tune it the same was as a smoother then it's going to take you all=
day to flatten a
> board. =A0Its sheer heft combined with inertia allows you to open the mou=
th a bit and take
> bigger cuts.
>
> Those videos that Leon posted the other day offer some wonderful educatio=
n on how the
> various types of planes can be used to great advantage. =A0Here they are =
again:
>
> Glide Leg Visehttp://www.benchcrafted.com/videos/benchcraftedglide.wmv
>
> Roubo Bench =A0and a little handy plane work. =A0;~)http://www.benchcraft=
ed.com/videos/roubo.wmv
>
> Wagon Visehttp://www.benchcrafted.com/videos/benchcraftedtailvise.wmv
Everything Steve said. And ignore Lew on flattening your bench. I used
my handplanes & it was great exercise & a lot of fun.
Luigi
On Sep 2, 9:04=A0pm, "Bill" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Steve Turner" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:[email protected]...
>
>
>
> > Bill wrote:
> >> "Larry Blanchard" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >>news:[email protected]...
> >>> At the time I bought mine, I got it for $80 including shipping only
> >>> because a previous owner had drilled one side for a fence and the
> >>> collectors didn't want it. =A0If the one you're looking at is pre-war=
and
> >>> truly excellent, I'd say anything under $100 is a bargain. =A0If it's
> >>> post-
> >>> war, leave it for someone else.
>
> >> Another plane fan (probably someone I've =A0bid against and spoken wit=
h
> >> before) had already
> >> submitted an offer of $20 but he wasn't =A0present, so I got the plane=
for
> >> $25.
> >> I was delighted to hear the silence as the =A0auctioneer did his thing=
.
> >> It's a Bailey #8, and feels great in my hand--not sure whether it is p=
re
> >> war or not (do you know a quick way to tell?)--I'll do my homework on
> >> that.
>
> > I'm curious to hear just what type of #8 you snagged for $25 (you suck,=
by
> > the way). =A0You should be able to tell in reasonably short order with =
the
> > help of this website:
>
> >http://hyperkitten.com/tools/stanley_bench_plane/index.php
>
> Considering the web site above, it is most assuredly a Type 10 (1907-1909=
),
> w/original iron. =A0If it makes you feel any better, I'm pretty sure the =
rear
> handle has been replaced
> and I don't have the original box it came in. =A0;)
You really suck!! I felt the suckage all the way to the Yukon!
Luigi
"Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I went and previewed the tools:
>
> They Have a (Stanley) Bailey #8 plane (24") in excellent conditon. I've
> own it's 9" and 14" cousins, I wonder whether I need this one? I know
> it's called a "jointer", but would I find it useful more generally for
> smoothing?
>
> Dewalt 705 Compound Miter Saw (if it has dust collector, it wasn't
> attached). Will take another look tomorrow. I suspect it would be handy
> sometime. I would bid on it if the price is really right. What would you
> pay?
>
> Any thoughts?
>
> It's not all about "need", "want" counts too right? :)
By the way, the miter saw is 12".
Bill
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Bill" wrote:
>
>> Dewalt 705 Compound Miter Saw (if it has dust collector, it wasn't
>> attached). Will take another look tomorrow. I suspect it would be handy
>> sometime. I would bid on it if the price is really right. What would you
>> pay?
>
> You can by a new DeWalt 10" for $199.
>
> 705 is not a current model.
>
> $75, MAYBE?
>
> Lew
Thanks. I appreciate it.
Bill
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Bill" wrote:
>
>> Dewalt 705 Compound Miter Saw (if it has dust collector, it wasn't
>> attached). Will take another look tomorrow. I suspect it would be handy
>> sometime. I would bid on it if the price is really right. What would you
>> pay?
>
> You can by a new DeWalt 10" for $199.
>
> 705 is not a current model.
>
> $75, MAYBE?
>
> Lew
I'm sure my wife thanks you too! ;)
"Lowell Holmes" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>I went and previewed the tools:
>>
>> They Have a (Stanley) Bailey #8 plane (24") in excellent conditon. I've
>> own it's 9" and 14" cousins, I wonder whether I need this one? I know
>> it's called a "jointer", but would I find it useful more generally for
>> smoothing?
>>
> You would find it used to make boards incredibly straight and making glue
> joints that will rub together and make up without clamps. :-)
That's "touching"... ;)
Bill wrote:
> I went and previewed the tools:
>
> They Have a (Stanley) Bailey #8 plane (24") in excellent conditon. I've
> own it's 9" and 14" cousins, I wonder whether I need this one?
What kind of question is that? Of *course* you need it! :-)
> I know it's
> called a "jointer", but would I find it useful more generally for smoothing?
I wouldn't use it for that; too heavy. Your smoother is generally going to be your most
finely tuned plane, with a tight mouth and razor-sharp cutter, adjusted to cut shavings
thinner than a piece of paper. Not that your jointer shouldn't be razor-sharp as well, but
if you tune it the same was as a smoother then it's going to take you all day to flatten a
board. Its sheer heft combined with inertia allows you to open the mouth a bit and take
bigger cuts.
Those videos that Leon posted the other day offer some wonderful education on how the
various types of planes can be used to great advantage. Here they are again:
Glide Leg Vise
http://www.benchcrafted.com/videos/benchcraftedglide.wmv
Roubo Bench and a little handy plane work. ;~)
http://www.benchcrafted.com/videos/roubo.wmv
Wagon Vise
http://www.benchcrafted.com/videos/benchcraftedtailvise.wmv
--
"Even if your wife is happy but you're unhappy, you're still happier
than you'd be if you were happy and your wife was unhappy." - Red Green
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/
"Larry Blanchard" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> At the time I bought mine, I got it for $80 including shipping only
> because a previous owner had drilled one side for a fence and the
> collectors didn't want it. If the one you're looking at is pre-war and
> truly excellent, I'd say anything under $100 is a bargain. If it's post-
> war, leave it for someone else.
Another plane fan (probably someone I've bid against and spoken with
before) had already
submitted an offer of $20 but he wasn't present, so I got the plane for
$25.
I was delighted to hear the silence as the auctioneer did his thing.
It's a Bailey #8, and feels great in my hand--not sure whether it is pre
war or not (do you know a quick way to tell?)--I'll do my homework on that.
For anyone who doesn't think I have enough clamps yet (and I don't), I
also bought an 8" C-clamp and two 6" C-clamps for for $9 altogether. I
thought
they might come in handly for the jig Lew suggested which makes the
jointer unnecessary, among other things..
Now I need some small clamps to make minor drawer-related repairs to
a dresser I bought which my wife and I Really Need (one dresser got broken
in our recent move and I let another die of natural causes during the same
move).
I should have taken Lew's advice and bought a few small clamps already.
Is there an advantage to Tite-bond glue over Elmers Glue for repairing a
drawer
support which has cracked? I ask merely because I have Elmer's handy.
There is ALOT of surface area to glue to make the repair (so I think it's an
easy repair). Is there a recommend way to retouch minor scratches (I'll
do my homework on that too)?
I'm sure the "saga" of the Wednesday auction will continue. Thank you for
your suggestions
and for listening!
Bill
Bill wrote:
> "Larry Blanchard" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> At the time I bought mine, I got it for $80 including shipping only
>> because a previous owner had drilled one side for a fence and the
>> collectors didn't want it. If the one you're looking at is pre-war and
>> truly excellent, I'd say anything under $100 is a bargain. If it's post-
>> war, leave it for someone else.
>
>
> Another plane fan (probably someone I've bid against and spoken with
> before) had already
> submitted an offer of $20 but he wasn't present, so I got the plane for
> $25.
> I was delighted to hear the silence as the auctioneer did his thing.
> It's a Bailey #8, and feels great in my hand--not sure whether it is pre
> war or not (do you know a quick way to tell?)--I'll do my homework on that.
I'm curious to hear just what type of #8 you snagged for $25 (you suck,
by the way). You should be able to tell in reasonably short order with
the help of this website:
http://hyperkitten.com/tools/stanley_bench_plane/index.php
--
See Nad. See Nad go. Go Nad!
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/
>> Is there an advantage to Tite-bond glue over Elmers Glue for repairing a
>> drawer
>> support which has cracked?
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote
> I like epoxy and/or epoxy fairing putty for that type of repair.
>
> Lew
>
Just to confirm, I am referring to the "popular", but not see in FWW,
drawer mechanism of a single shaped "slat" being hugged by a plastic piece
on
the bottom of the drawer. One of the slats is cleanly split in
two--probably
from someone turning the drawer while it was open. Evidently, the slat is
subject to stress (torsion?).
From what I can tell, the advantage of the epoxy glues is their
flexability. Is that why you suggest the epoxy here. Would my "Gorilla
Glue" be just
the opposite (non-flexible), and comparably a poor choice? Some people
speak of
Gorilla Glue like it's almost "heaven sent"... :)
Lew, I've seen some of your "yacht project" online; if you don't mind my
asking, what sort of
projects are you doing now? Is the yacht still in the picture?
Bill
Lew Hodgett wrote:
> "dpb" wrote:
>
>> No, they're either Tues or Thursday... :)
>
>
> Tell me the women sold chicken dinners and also has a bake sale to
> raise funds while the auction was being held.
Routinely that ceased about 20 years ago, sadly... :(
The lunch counter still operates as a home-cooking "blue-plate special"
kinda' place but mere shadow of days of yore...the prevalence of
direct-sales to the packers from feeders cuts down the sale to mostly
feeders and smaller lots; almost no finished go thru the ring any more.
--
"Steve Turner" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Bill wrote:
>> "Larry Blanchard" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>> At the time I bought mine, I got it for $80 including shipping only
>>> because a previous owner had drilled one side for a fence and the
>>> collectors didn't want it. If the one you're looking at is pre-war and
>>> truly excellent, I'd say anything under $100 is a bargain. If it's
>>> post-
>>> war, leave it for someone else.
>>
>>
>> Another plane fan (probably someone I've bid against and spoken with
>> before) had already
>> submitted an offer of $20 but he wasn't present, so I got the plane for
>> $25.
>> I was delighted to hear the silence as the auctioneer did his thing.
>> It's a Bailey #8, and feels great in my hand--not sure whether it is pre
>> war or not (do you know a quick way to tell?)--I'll do my homework on
>> that.
>
> I'm curious to hear just what type of #8 you snagged for $25 (you suck, by
> the way). You should be able to tell in reasonably short order with the
> help of this website:
>
> http://hyperkitten.com/tools/stanley_bench_plane/index.php
>
Considering the web site above, it is most assuredly a Type 10 (1907-1909),
w/original iron. If it makes you feel any better, I'm pretty sure the rear
handle has been replaced
and I don't have the original box it came in. ;)
I got more interested in planes after I read "The Hand Plane Book" by
Garrett Hack. It was a very nice read 3 years ago and I'm sure I would
learn plenty from another time through. It has excellent pictures too, in
case
anyone is searching for a good book.
Bill
Bill wrote:
> "Steve Turner" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> Bill wrote:
>>>
>>> Another plane fan (probably someone I've bid against and spoken with
>>> before) had already
>>> submitted an offer of $20 but he wasn't present, so I got the plane for
>>> $25.
>>> I was delighted to hear the silence as the auctioneer did his thing.
>>> It's a Bailey #8, and feels great in my hand--not sure whether it is pre
>>> war or not (do you know a quick way to tell?)--I'll do my homework on
>>> that.
>> I'm curious to hear just what type of #8 you snagged for $25 (you suck, by
>> the way). You should be able to tell in reasonably short order with the
>> help of this website:
>>
>> http://hyperkitten.com/tools/stanley_bench_plane/index.php
>>
>
> Considering the web site above, it is most assuredly a Type 10 (1907-1909),
> w/original iron.
A Type 10 - very nice! Corrugated or smooth sole? Stanley never made them finer than
during this era. I have a couple of Type 10s myself; most of the rest are Type 11s.
> If it makes you feel any better, I'm pretty sure the rear
> handle has been replaced
> and I don't have the original box it came in. ;)
Nah; it sounds fine just the way it is. If it was "all original in the box" you'd have to
put it on the shelf and look at it instead of using it! Congratulations on the nice find,
and enjoy your plane (and the next one, and the next one...)
--
"Even if your wife is happy but you're unhappy, you're still happier
than you'd be if you were happy and your wife was unhappy." - Red Green
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/
Upscale wrote:
> "Jim Weisgram" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> Gorilla Glue had poor results on loose joints and was overall the
>> weakest.
>
> So what, if anything *is* it good for? Mostly, although never having used
> it, I believed it was a effective, strong, glue. I guess I fell for the name
> and the advertising crapola.
Admittedly, the hype surrounding Gorilla Glue piqued my interest as well, but I was always
apprehensive about it and only used it a couple of times in situations where I was "ok" with
the possibility of it behaving unexpectedly. However, since reading the aforementioned
article in Fine Woodworking I haven't touched the stuff.
--
Free bad advice available here.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/
>> So what, if anything *is* it good for? Mostly, although never having used
>> it, I believed it was a effective, strong, glue. I guess I fell for
>> the name and the advertising crapola.
A salesman at Lowes pushed me to it. I haven't opened it yet.
I bought some to glue washers (one on each side) to a painted hollow
wooden closet door to (hopefully) resolve the damage caused over time by
a long bolt which goes through the door to hold a knob on.
The hole for the bolt has wore into an oval through normal use making
it "sloppy". For better or worse, I designed that solution myself.
From this thread, it seems like the epoxy may be a better choice than
the Gorilla Glue. Would I be well advised to remove any paint (I was
just planning to clean well)?
I'll be cutting the "washers" myself, so that I get a perfect fit, but
that's another story.
By the way, thank you for all of the kind and thoughtful comments about
my new plane!
Bill
Bill wrote:
>>> So what, if anything *is* it good for? Mostly, although never
>>> having used it, I believed it was a effective, strong, glue. I
>>> guess I fell for
>>> the name and the advertising crapola.
>
> A salesman at Lowes pushed me to it. I haven't opened it yet.
>
> I bought some to glue washers (one on each side) to a painted hollow
> wooden closet door to (hopefully) resolve the damage caused over time
> by a long bolt which goes through the door to hold a knob on.
> The hole for the bolt has wore into an oval through normal use making
> it "sloppy". For better or worse, I designed that solution myself.
>
> From this thread, it seems like the epoxy may be a better choice than
> the Gorilla Glue. Would I be well advised to remove any paint (I was
> just planning to clean well)?
>
> I'll be cutting the "washers" myself, so that I get a perfect fit, but
> that's another story.
First, do remove the paint--glue and paint do not work and play well
together.
Second--regardless of its adhesive qualities, Gorilla Glue foams a bit--try
it on a sample and see what you're dealing with--I think you'll find that
for the purpose you're describing it's going to be a pain in the butt just
because you're going to have to deal with the foam-out.
> By the way, thank you for all of the kind and thoughtful comments
> about my new plane!
>
> Bill
J. Clarke wrote:
> Second--regardless of its adhesive qualities, Gorilla Glue foams a bit--try
> it on a sample and see what you're dealing with--I think you'll find that
> for the purpose you're describing it's going to be a pain in the butt just
> because you're going to have to deal with the foam-out.
I'm glad you mentioned that because one of the reasons I am making my
own "washers" is because I need them to be very thin (and I think I can
make washers just like I need in 1% of the time it would take me to buy
them). From what you've said, Gorilla Glue is clearly the wrong choice,
and, once again, I was led astray by an overzealous salesperson.
Thanks,
Bill
"Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>>> Is there an advantage to Tite-bond glue over Elmers Glue for repairing a
>>> drawer
>>> support which has cracked?
>
>
> "Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote
>> I like epoxy and/or epoxy fairing putty for that type of repair.
>>
>> Lew
>>
> Just to confirm, I am referring to the "popular", but not see in FWW,
> drawer mechanism of a single shaped "slat" being hugged by a plastic piece
> on
> the bottom of the drawer. One of the slats is cleanly split in
> two--probably
> from someone turning the drawer while it was open. Evidently, the slat is
> subject to stress (torsion?).
>
> From what I can tell, the advantage of the epoxy glues is their
> flexability. Is that why you suggest the epoxy here.
> Bill
I glued the drawer support today with epoxy and three 3" C-clamps, glued
alternately,
along the 5" crack. I was sort of proud of the way it looked there on the
driveway resting
on two C-clamps, but no one came by to notice. Without the knowledge I have
learned from this
forum I would not have done it nearly as well. The labor was in removing
the piece (held by screws
with a square rather than hex shaped opening).
Due to a little wood which has been lost, remaking the piece someday is a
possibility. I'll just need
a table saw and a router table and I'll need to enrich my vocabulary to talk
about the wood I'll need
to remove on each side of the support/slat (shaped like a "V resting on it's
side"). Nothing like hand-crafting
repairs to manufactured furniture, eh? On the positive side this provides
motivation to get a router.
I was thinking of the Grizzly 1023SLW TS which has a router table on it's
extension table. Of course, seeing
Mike get a "Gloat!-deal" today on his Delta TS makes me want to search for a
great deal too! Never
know what will show up at the "Wednesday Auction", but I haven't run across
a nice TS yet--plenty
of Very Old Craftsman TSs that I doubt merit the investment in a new blade.
The auction basically
sells "estate stuff".
I'm continuing to work towards grinding the garage floor. I spread several
bags of grass seed and
fertilizer and 6 40# bags of topsoil on the lawn in the last two days after
hand-pulling about six 35 gallon garbage
bags full of crab grass. It looked "green enough" but the crab grass
bothered me. It doesn't appear
to bother my neighbors on either side as much. Getting to that "empty garage
floor" stage seemed like an
ominous task, but I try to do "something" everyday which gets me closer. I
started using a spreadsheet to manage
my projects (sequence of procedures, necessary tools, and my $-outlay) and
that has greatly improved my outlook.
I recommend an approach like this to anyone trying to balance everything in
their head (if you don't like
technology, then use lots of paper). There is something satisfying about
checking things off to see the progress.
Happy Labor Day!
Bill
"Bill" wrote:
> From what I can tell, the advantage of the epoxy glues is their
> flexability. Is that why you suggest the epoxy here.
It also, especially when filled with micro-balloons(fairing putty),
has gap filling
ability.
It is very forgiving stuff.
>Would my "Gorilla Glue" be just
> the opposite (non-flexible), and comparably a poor choice? Some
> people speak of
> Gorilla Glue like it's almost "heaven sent"... :)
IMHO, Gorilla Glue is the most over priced and under peckered crap
available.
It fills a gap, but it adds no strength.
Stuff is about as useful as breasts on a boar hog.
I use either epoxy or TiteBondII except for resorcinol when working
with white oak which is standard for wooden boat construction.
> Lew, I've seen some of your "yacht project" online; if you don't
> mind my asking, what sort of
> projects are you doing now? Is the yacht still in the picture?
Moved on from boat.
In between projects.
Lew
On Tue, 01 Sep 2009 23:37:09 -0400, Bill wrote:
> They Have a (Stanley) Bailey #8 plane (24") in excellent conditon.
> I've own it's 9" and 14" cousins, I wonder whether I need this one? I
> know it's called a "jointer", but would I find it useful more generally
> for smoothing?
I've got a 19th century #8 and love it. Just the other day, I assembled
a blanket chest and one of the top rails was about 1/64" proud of the leg
on one end. A few strokes with my #8 took care of that and still left
the rail top flat.
I've used a #7, but the added inertia of the #8 slices through the tough
spots (like knots) with less hesitation.
At the time I bought mine, I got it for $80 including shipping only
because a previous owner had drilled one side for a fence and the
collectors didn't want it. If the one you're looking at is pre-war and
truly excellent, I'd say anything under $100 is a bargain. If it's post-
war, leave it for someone else.
--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw
> One of the slats is cleanly split in
> two--probably
> from someone turning the drawer while it was open. Evidently, the slat is
> subject to stress (torsion?).
There is probably grain running somewhat side to side vs. running
completely end to end. If you were to cut a new slat that was parallel
to the wood grain, it would be much stronger. And of course, if you
used a stronger wood, that would help, too.
[...snip...]
>Is there an advantage to Tite-bond glue over Elmers Glue for repairing a
>drawer
>support which has cracked? I ask merely because I have Elmer's handy.
[...snip...]
And then...
> Would my "Gorilla Glue" be just the opposite (non-flexible), and
> comparably a poor choice? Some people speak of Gorilla Glue
> like it's almost "heaven sent"... :)
[...snip...]
Elmer's yellow woodworking glue vs. Titebond? Pretty comparable,
really. Elmer's should be "stronger than the wood", same as Titebond.
See below for some supporting data.
> From what I can tell, the advantage of the epoxy glues is their
> flexability. Is that why you suggest the epoxy here.
I am guessing Lew suggested epoxy because it is strong even when you
have gaps, good when repairing cracked wood such as you have.
For some general info on strength of glues, here's a link to a test
done by Fine Woodworking (the link works only if you pay for their web
extras). http://www.finewoodworking.com/fwnpdf/011192036.pdf
They tested, from best to worst,
Titebond III
SystemThree T80 Epoxy
Elmer's Carpenter's Glue
Liquid "Old Brown" Hide Glue.
Moser's Hide Glue
Gorilla Glue
on Maple, Oak, and Ipe. For each wood, they tested on tight, snug, and
loose joints.
The Titebond III and epoxy were neck and neck througout the test, with
Elmer's a close third.
In general, all the glues were within shouting distance, although
Gorilla Glue had poor results on loose joints and was overall the
weakest.