I'm getting near completion of a Huntboard Table and thinking of
using an oil finish like Boil Lin Seed Oil (BLO), Danish Oil, or some
recipe thereof. I found a recipe using BLO and SPAR varnish.
The table is made of white oak and want to have the wood
grain show through versus the standard Huntboard paint job.
Your thoughts?
Otoe
On Mon, 31 Dec 2007 13:14:58 -0800 (PST), MB <[email protected]>
wrote:
>"varnish" is a general term for any clear coating you put on wood.
>Poly, alkyd and shellac are all types of varnish (by this definition).
>I don't think of BLO as a varnish, because it doesn't form a coating
>(film) on the wood.
>
>Oil based poly can be mixed with MS and BLO is any proportions. The MS
>evaporates away. the BLO is absorbed into the wood and darkens and
>enhances the grain. The poly will build up the film finish. So, more
>poly = more film like finish.
>
>Mitch
Thank you for the clarification,
Otoe
"Otoe" wrote:
> I'm getting near completion of a Huntboard Table and thinking of
> using an oil finish like Boil Lin Seed Oil (BLO), Danish Oil, or
some
> recipe thereof. I found a recipe using BLO and SPAR varnish.
> The table is made of white oak and want to have the wood
> grain show through versus the standard Huntboard paint job.
1) Forget the spar varnish since it never totally hardens.
I'm no finishing genius, but have made some white oak pieces finished
with BLO, followed by bees wax cut with turps.
I'm happy and so is the person who received the stuff.
The instructions are on the BLO can, cut it 2 parts BLO, 3 parts turps
or something close.
Apply thin coat with soft rag, allow to drive, then repeat 3-4 times.
Allow to cure a couple of weeks, then wax.
I melted 1/2 lb bees wax in a coffee can that was in a pot of boiling
water.
Add 1 cup BLO and 2 cups turps.
(No good reason for the BLO, just did it)
Mix and allow to solidify.
Apply with soft rag.
(If wax is too stiff, remelt and add more turps)
Keep wax covered with plastic lid of the coffee csn.
Nothing special, but I like it.
Lew
Sat, Dec 29, 2007, 8:52pm [email protected] (Otoe) doth query:
<snip> Your thoughts?
I think I'll have a cuppa coffee.
Oh yeah. Use scrap pieces and test finishes until you find one you
like.
JOAT
If you can read this you're in range.
On Dec 29, 8:52 pm, Otoe <[email protected]> wrote:
> I'm getting near completion of a Huntboard Table and thinking of
> using an oil finish like Boil Lin Seed Oil (BLO), Danish Oil, or some
> recipe thereof. I found a recipe using BLO and SPAR varnish.
try 1 part BLO, 1 part mineral spirits (or turps), 1 part oil based
poly.
Wipe it on and let it soak in for about 30 mins. If it get adsorbed
during that 30 minutes, wipe on some more tot the dry spots. Wait
another 15 minutes or so and wipe off. Repeat after 24 hour. it may
take 5-6 coats depending on your taste.
MItch
On Sun, 30 Dec 2007 15:04:47 -0500, [email protected] (J T)
wrote:
>Sat, Dec 29, 2007, 8:52pm [email protected] (Otoe) doth query:
><snip> Your thoughts?
>
> I think I'll have a cuppa coffee.
>
> Oh yeah. Use scrap pieces and test finishes until you find one you
>like.
>
>
>
>JOAT
>If you can read this you're in range.
I've saved end pieces just for this finish testing. Just trying to
findout what are the different oil recipes to play with before
applying to table.
Otoe
Sun, Dec 30, 2007, 8:08pm [email protected] (Otoe) doth sayeth:
I've saved end pieces just for this finish testing. Just trying to
findout what are the different oil recipes to play with before applying
to table.
You wants a oil recipe, you gets a oil recipe. Fresh cooking oil.
If you don't believe it, check the archives.
JOAT
If you can read this you're in range.
On Dec 29, 8:52 pm, Otoe <[email protected]> wrote:
> I'm getting near completion of a Huntboard Table and thinking of
> using an oil finish like Boil Lin Seed Oil (BLO), Danish Oil, or some
> recipe thereof. I found a recipe using BLO and SPAR varnish.
> The table is made of white oak and want to have the wood
> grain show through versus the standard Huntboard paint job.
>
> Your thoughts?
Straight varnish and solvent, 50-50, no oil, or just enough
oil to keep the rag from sticking, looks just like oil when
hard, with fewer coats and no need to repply every year.
Rockhard works well.
>
> So it's OK to mix BLO with a poly? This would provide a more
> protective, hard finish as compared to BLO and varnish?
>
>
"varnish" is a general term for any clear coating you put on wood.
Poly, alkyd and shellac are all types of varnish (by this definition).
I don't think of BLO as a varnish, because it doesn't form a coating
(film) on the wood.
Oil based poly can be mixed with MS and BLO is any proportions. The MS
evaporates away. the BLO is absorbed into the wood and darkens and
enhances the grain. The poly will build up the film finish. So, more
poly = more film like finish.
Mitch
On Dec 31, 11:43 am, Otoe <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Sun, 30 Dec 2007 17:22:10 -0800 (PST), Father Haskell
>
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >Straight varnish and solvent, 50-50, no oil, or just enough
> >oil to keep the rag from sticking, looks just like oil when
> >hard, with fewer coats and no need to repply every year.
> >Rockhard works well.
>
> Thanks, I'll check this out. Rockhard is the brand name?
>
> Otoe
Behlen is the manufacturer. Short oil phenolic resin varnish.
This type of varnish is favored where you want it to dry hard and
rub out to a mirror gloss.
On Dec 31, 11:44 am, Otoe <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Sun, 30 Dec 2007 21:02:27 -0800 (PST), MB <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> >On Dec 29, 8:52 pm, Otoe <[email protected]> wrote:
> >> I'm getting near completion of a Huntboard Table and thinking of
> >> using an oil finish like Boil Lin Seed Oil (BLO), Danish Oil, or some
> >> recipe thereof. I found a recipe using BLO and SPAR varnish.
>
> >try 1 part BLO, 1 part mineral spirits (or turps), 1 part oil based
> >poly.
>
> >Wipe it on and let it soak in for about 30 mins. If it get adsorbed
> >during that 30 minutes, wipe on some more tot the dry spots. Wait
> >another 15 minutes or so and wipe off. Repeat after 24 hour. it may
> >take 5-6 coats depending on your taste.
>
> >MItch
>
> So it's OK to mix BLO with a poly? This would provide a more
> protective, hard finish as compared to BLO and varnish?
>
> Otoe
Any drying oil can be mixed with any varnish. I haven't
found a combination that doesn't work. Reason you won't
find poly recommended here so much is it looks and feels
like plastic, and ages to a sickly jaundice-like urine tone.
On 31 Dec, 16:51, Otoe <[email protected]> wrote:
> What's with Danish that is unsatisfactory?
Hard to say without more detail - "Danish oil" is a broad term.
There are "short oil" varnishes and "long oil" varnishes. Both are
made from mixtures of oil + some varnish resin. "Short" use a little
varnish relative to the oil, "long" uses a lot.
Short oil oil varnishes can give excellent results on fine furniture
and have a long historical tradition on high-end work. Long oil
varnishes are more robust, but never achieve the same finish quality.
They have many uses in the workshop, but not on fine furniture. The
typical "Daish oil" you might buy today is deliberately intended as a
long oil varnish for just this sort of work.
If you want short oil varnishes, then they're still available (try
the "Tried & True" range from Lee Valley) but they're quite
specialist. They're intended for authenticity and results, not for
modern levels of easy use! Many people (myself included) working with
short oils are doing it for deliberate repro work of past centuries
work and may even be boiling their own oils etc. It's serious stuff
and far from trivial "tin-opening" work. Read Jeff Jewitt's "Classic
Finishing Techniques" if you want chapter and verse. I spent most of
today boiling up a couple of litres of lead-dried linseed oil - filthy
job!
"Otoe" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm getting near completion of a Huntboard Table and thinking of
> using an oil finish like Boil Lin Seed Oil (BLO), Danish Oil, or some
> recipe thereof. I found a recipe using BLO and SPAR varnish.
> The table is made of white oak and want to have the wood
> grain show through versus the standard Huntboard paint job.
>
> Your thoughts?
>
Become a label reader. Oil - Danish - X oil "finish" - wipe on X - standard
varnishes - are all the same. There's just more resin to solidify the
finish with each step. Different resins, too. Alkyd, urethane and phenolic
are the three that are most commonly found.
Anything above simple curing oil becomes tougher as the resin to oil ratio
increases. I'd go in at the wipe-on level on a huntboard. Stop coating
when you have the depth you desire.
Oh yes, spar varnish is a long-oil type with UV inhibiters. Great for
outdoor use where temperature changes are regular and ranges are high.
Ingredients lists (sort of) here
http://www.homesteadfinishing.com/htdocs/msds.htm
General info here, among many others.
http://www.woodturningvideosplus.com/oil-finish.html
On Sun, 30 Dec 2007 21:02:27 -0800 (PST), MB <[email protected]>
wrote:
>On Dec 29, 8:52 pm, Otoe <[email protected]> wrote:
>> I'm getting near completion of a Huntboard Table and thinking of
>> using an oil finish like Boil Lin Seed Oil (BLO), Danish Oil, or some
>> recipe thereof. I found a recipe using BLO and SPAR varnish.
>
>try 1 part BLO, 1 part mineral spirits (or turps), 1 part oil based
>poly.
>
>Wipe it on and let it soak in for about 30 mins. If it get adsorbed
>during that 30 minutes, wipe on some more tot the dry spots. Wait
>another 15 minutes or so and wipe off. Repeat after 24 hour. it may
>take 5-6 coats depending on your taste.
>
>MItch
So it's OK to mix BLO with a poly? This would provide a more
protective, hard finish as compared to BLO and varnish?
Otoe
On 30 Dec, 01:52, Otoe <[email protected]> wrote:
> I'm getting near completion of a Huntboard Table and thinking of
> using an oil finish
Go read a book - plenty of good ones out there, but I'd start with
Flexner's "Understanding Wood Finishing" or Jeff Jewitt's "Hand-
Applied Finishes". His old classic recipes book (can't remember the
exact title) is one of the best around for oil recipes, especially if
you're doing serious repro work, but it's hard to find.
Apart from that, anything sensible will work and will give you the
result it's meant to. The rest is a matter of personal choice,
depending on what you want to achieve. You really do need to finish up
some decent-size timber samples with a rage of techniques and see how
you like them.
I wouldn't use linseed (yellows over time) so use a commercial tung
oil-based mixture first, for starters.
I'd also suggest (to get a better looking finish) either plain oil, or
shellac over oil, for a piece of furniture, rather than an "oil +
varnish" mixture like Danish oil.
Technique can matter too. For producing a "fine finish" to furniture
grade, the application technique can often get to be more complex than
just slapping it on. Read the index to the last few years of Fine
Woodworking.
Andy Dingley wrote:
> On 30 Dec, 01:52, Otoe <[email protected]> wrote:
>> I'm getting near completion of a Huntboard Table and thinking of
>> using an oil finish
>
> Go read a book - plenty of good ones out there, but I'd start with
> Flexner's "Understanding Wood Finishing" or Jeff Jewitt's "Hand-
> Applied Finishes". His old classic recipes book (can't remember the
> exact title) is one of the best around for oil recipes, especially if
> you're doing serious repro work, but it's hard to find.
>
<snip>
I'd second that. I'm partway through
Flexner's "Understanding Wood
Finishing:" and I'm cursing myself for
not getting it sooner. The thing he
starts off with is:
You guys are scared of this stuff cause
you don't know it. Once you understand
it, you won't be.
He also debunks a lot of things he
considers myth in the field. Assuming
he's right, just that knowledge is going
to make my job easier.
--
Tanus
This is not really a sig.
http://www.home.mycybernet.net/~waugh/shop/
On Mon, 31 Dec 2007 19:21:50 GMT, Jesse <[email protected]> wrote:
>On Mon, 31 Dec 2007 11:44:50 -0500, Otoe <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>On Sun, 30 Dec 2007 21:02:27 -0800 (PST), MB <[email protected]>
>>wrote:
>>
>>>On Dec 29, 8:52 pm, Otoe <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>> I'm getting near completion of a Huntboard Table and thinking of
>>>> using an oil finish like Boil Lin Seed Oil (BLO), Danish Oil, or some
>>>> recipe thereof. I found a recipe using BLO and SPAR varnish.
>>>
>>>try 1 part BLO, 1 part mineral spirits (or turps), 1 part oil based
>>>poly.
>>>
>>>Wipe it on and let it soak in for about 30 mins. If it get adsorbed
>>>during that 30 minutes, wipe on some more tot the dry spots. Wait
>>>another 15 minutes or so and wipe off. Repeat after 24 hour. it may
>>>take 5-6 coats depending on your taste.
>>>
>>>MItch
>>
>>So it's OK to mix BLO with a poly? This would provide a more
>>protective, hard finish as compared to BLO and varnish?
>>
>>Otoe
>Could someone tell me what BLO is please.
Sorry, speed reading problem. Disregard
On Mon, 31 Dec 2007 11:44:50 -0500, Otoe <[email protected]> wrote:
>On Sun, 30 Dec 2007 21:02:27 -0800 (PST), MB <[email protected]>
>wrote:
>
>>On Dec 29, 8:52 pm, Otoe <[email protected]> wrote:
>>> I'm getting near completion of a Huntboard Table and thinking of
>>> using an oil finish like Boil Lin Seed Oil (BLO), Danish Oil, or some
>>> recipe thereof. I found a recipe using BLO and SPAR varnish.
>>
>>try 1 part BLO, 1 part mineral spirits (or turps), 1 part oil based
>>poly.
>>
>>Wipe it on and let it soak in for about 30 mins. If it get adsorbed
>>during that 30 minutes, wipe on some more tot the dry spots. Wait
>>another 15 minutes or so and wipe off. Repeat after 24 hour. it may
>>take 5-6 coats depending on your taste.
>>
>>MItch
>
>So it's OK to mix BLO with a poly? This would provide a more
>protective, hard finish as compared to BLO and varnish?
>
>Otoe
Could someone tell me what BLO is please.
On Mon, 31 Dec 2007 02:26:30 -0800 (PST), Andy Dingley
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Go read a book - plenty of good ones out there, but I'd start with
>Flexner's "Understanding Wood Finishing" or Jeff Jewitt's "Hand-
>Applied Finishes". His old classic recipes book (can't remember the
>exact title) is one of the best around for oil recipes, especially if
>you're doing serious repro work, but it's hard to find.
>
>Apart from that, anything sensible will work and will give you the
>result it's meant to. The rest is a matter of personal choice,
>depending on what you want to achieve. You really do need to finish up
>some decent-size timber samples with a rage of techniques and see how
>you like them.
>
>I wouldn't use linseed (yellows over time) so use a commercial tung
>oil-based mixture first, for starters.
>
>I'd also suggest (to get a better looking finish) either plain oil, or
>shellac over oil, for a piece of furniture, rather than an "oil +
>varnish" mixture like Danish oil.
>
>Technique can matter too. For producing a "fine finish" to furniture
>grade, the application technique can often get to be more complex than
>just slapping it on. Read the index to the last few years of Fine
>Woodworking.
Started doing this too. Would you expand on the Danish oil comment?
What's with Danish that is unsatisfactory?
I've read about shelac as an undercoating/sanding sealer but does that
work OK with BLO, for example. I read an article about a quick finish
using oil with shelac before the oil drys.
There are so many combinations and application techniques. I'd hate
to spend a lot of time experimenting and then ending up as
confused as I started, ha!
Otoe
On Sun, 30 Dec 2007 17:22:10 -0800 (PST), Father Haskell
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>Straight varnish and solvent, 50-50, no oil, or just enough
>oil to keep the rag from sticking, looks just like oil when
>hard, with fewer coats and no need to repply every year.
>Rockhard works well.
>
Thanks, I'll check this out. Rockhard is the brand name?
Otoe
MB <[email protected]> wrote:
>On Dec 29, 8:52 pm, Otoe <[email protected]> wrote:
>> I'm getting near completion of a Huntboard Table and thinking of
>> using an oil finish like Boil Lin Seed Oil (BLO), Danish Oil, or some
>> recipe thereof. I found a recipe using BLO and SPAR varnish.
>
>try 1 part BLO, 1 part mineral spirits (or turps), 1 part oil based
>poly.
>
>Wipe it on and let it soak in for about 30 mins. If it get adsorbed
>during that 30 minutes, wipe on some more tot the dry spots. Wait
>another 15 minutes or so and wipe off. Repeat after 24 hour. it may
>take 5-6 coats depending on your taste.
My current favorite finish is similar: 1/3 BLO, 1/3 tung oil, 1/3 poly. This
has been attributed to Sam Maloof. The only downside is that it will yellow
lighter woods like maple. Actually, that may not be a downside if it appeals.
It makes a good finish for a table -- fairly durable and very easy to repair.
Just lightly sand the problem area and wipe on more finish. I used it on a
kitchen table a couple of years ago and it is doing fine.
I'll top it off with a wax made of 1/3 BLO, 1/3 Tung oil, 1/3 bees wax. You
need to grate the bees wax and dissolve it in the oils while warming them in a
double boiler.
If I really want to pop the grain, I'll start with 1/2 tung oil, 1/2 mineral
spirits.
-- Doug