For me it was this one:
A tip I learned here, and one of the most wonderful timesavers EVAR.
Shoot your nails, say when installing baseboard or window trim, through
a piece of masking tape. Then apply the filler. Then remove tape.
Minimal sanding. I now do a few face-frames that way too... forget
about bicuits and pocketscrews... (Only applies when painting
afterwards, of course.)
I wish I could remember who posted that tip...but thank you!
r
In article <[email protected]>, Brian Henderson <[email protected]> wrote:
>On Wed, 01 Nov 2006 14:52:36 -0500, Mike Patterson
><[email protected]> wrote:
>>2nd - Scary Sharp
>
>Which is really, really cool and probably one of the most valuable
>things out there for new woodworkers to learn.
The one real disadvantage to making your chisels and such Scary Sharp is that
if you happen to brush against the edge, there's no pain. The first sign that
you've cut yourself is seeing drops of blood appearing on your work.
Here's another tip: hydrogen peroxide does a great job of removing bloodstains
from wood. DAMHIKT. Or *why* I know this...
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.
Robatoy wrote:
> For me it was this one:
>
> A tip I learned here, and one of the most wonderful timesavers EVAR.
> Shoot your nails, say when installing baseboard or window trim, through
> a piece of masking tape. Then apply the filler. Then remove tape.
> Minimal sanding. I now do a few face-frames that way too... forget
> about bicuits and pocketscrews... (Only applies when painting
> afterwards, of course.)
>
> I wish I could remember who posted that tip...but thank you!
>
> r
It was Leon
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.woodworking/browse_frm/thread/7511f43424b5a076/b1052829089ce0e6?lnk=gst&q=masking+tape+nail&rnum=1#b1052829089ce0e6
and the rationale is that your filler doesn't end up in the pores of
the surrounding wood.
HotRod wrote:
> What the Heck does the masking tape do?
Keeps the filler from getting all over the wood.
You have to sand a dot of filler that's maybe 1/16" instead of a square
inch of wood-filler smeared wood.
-Nathan
P.S. I saw this tip in this month's Family Handyman if you're still
unsure how it works.
HotRod wrote:
> What the Heck does the masking tape do?
Keeps the filler from getting all over the wood.
You have to sand a dot of filler that's maybe 1/16" instead of a square
inch of wood-filler smeared wood.
-Nathan
P.S. I saw this tip in this month's Family Handyman if you're still
unsure how it works.
HotRod wrote:
> What the Heck does the masking tape do?
Keeps the filler from getting all over the wood.
You have to sand a dot of filler that's maybe 1/16" instead of a square
inch of wood-filler smeared wood.
-Nathan
P.S. I saw this tip in this month's Family Handyman if you're still
unsure how it works.
My tip is the only way to keep knots from bleeding though painted
woodwork is shellac. Forget Kiltz or any other stain killer paint
(unless you use shellac first).
My father told me this and I didn't believe him and I used a stain
killer paint (BIN) on some old woodwork. One year later the knots
bleed though again. Then I built a shelf for my sons closest out of a
piece of pine with huge knots that that were practically oozing sap. I
painted the knots with 3 coats of shellac followed by stain kill paint,
followed by latex. After three years there is sill no sign of the knots
in the closet or on the old woodwork.
I've also used it outside on that pre-primed pine trim that Home
Depot/Lowes sells with good success. I think they prime it so you
can't see how many knots are present. Same formula, thee coats
shellac, followed by stain kill paint, followed by latex.
Scott
CW wrote:
> BIN is tinted shelac.
>
According to the can BIN is a "high-performance white-pigmented
shellac-based primer-sealer"
It also says on the can that "new or unseasoned wood knots may
require one or two coats of Bulls-Eye Amber Shellac prior to spot
priming with B-I-N."
Instead of amber, I use blond shellac because it is easier to cover
with white paint.
Scott
> I came here specifically to ask about the TS-Aligner.
>
> It's expensive.
>
> Is it worth the money?
>
I have the TS-Aligner Jr. and one of Ed's precision angle blocks. I
highly recommend the angle block as a companion to the TS-Aligner Jr.
Yes, it is a lot to spend for a tool that doesn't make any sawdust, and
you won't even use it every day. But it really did add a lot of
enjoyment to my use of my tablesaw and my miter saw.
My Unisaw would cut perfectly when the blade was straight, but burned
the edges of the wood when the blade was tilted. Ed's gadget showed me
that my TABLE was tilted about 60 thousandths front-to-back. A couple
of shims under the top, and my problem is solved. Not sure how I would
have ever uncovered the problem without it.
A while back I had a project that required a 16-sided barrel-shaped
figure (not sure what you call it - a hexadecagon maybe?). If you've
ever done this sort of thing you know that the need for accuracy in
mitered joints goes up with the number of pieces. I spent about 5
minutes setting the angle on my tablesaw to precisely 22.5 degrees,
then ripped all my pieces, confident that they would fit perfectly -
and they did. Before buying the TS-Aligner, I would have spent the
better part of an hour cutting scrap pieces and adjusting the tilt to
close the gaps. Now maybe you enjoy that process of cutting scraps and
tweaking the wheel. I did - the first few times I did it. But I'd
really rather spend my time on the real thing.
Is it worth the money? It is to me.
DonkeyHody
"Every man is my superior in that I can learn from him." - Thomas
Carlyle
Frank Boettcher wrote:
> On 31 Oct 2006 08:40:07 -0800, "Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >For me it was this one:
> >
> I needed to get a quick primer on purchasing, proper preparation and
> use of hide glue to fix that kids ass. Got all the info I needed
> here
> >
> >r
You used hide glue in your kid's ass???
Guess it's one way to keep him home...
Hi Bruce,
I do the reviews for one primary reason: I want to have the best
products. I figure there's no better way to do this than buy the
competitive products and do the analysis. I've been doing it since the
first competitive products came out (some of which are no longer in
business). The things I have learned have been used to make my
products better.
I decided to publish these reviews on my web site several years ago
because of the lack of published information on alignment tools. There
were no comparative magazine reviews and the information on competitive
web sites was pretty minimal. I knew that people wanted this data
because they were calling me and asking for it. There has been one
comparative magazine review since then (Wood, 9/2003) but it was pretty
short on technical details and accuracy.
I recently updated the MasterGage review. I wouldn't say it was under
ideal circumstances! What can I say? You can really learn a lot about
your competitors when you give the public a detailed look at their
products. Sometimes knowing about the people who make a product is
just as important as knowing about the product itself. The interaction
with Mr. Reilly was quite an eye opener.
Ed Bennett
[email protected]
http://www.ts-aligner.com
Bruce Barnett wrote:
> Yup!
>
> I spend the time to read the comparisons Ed makes to competitive
> products on his web page. The competition with MasterGage makes
> interesting reading.
>
> http://www.ts-aligner.com/tsjrvsmg.htm
>
> I think this gives you better insight into what Ed feels is
> important. If other other manufacturers made such info available, it
> would be wonderful for intelligent consumers.
>
> The decision was a no-brainer. I knew I was getting the best product available.
>
> --
> Sending unsolicited commercial e-mail to this account incurs a fee of
> $500 per message, and acknowledges the legality of this contract.
On Thu, 02 Nov 2006 11:39:44 +0000, Bruce Barnett wrote:
> "Bill" <[email protected]> writes:
>
>> I came here specifically to ask about the TS-Aligner.
>>
>> It's expensive.
>>
>> Is it worth the money?
>
>
> Depends. How fussy are you about precision?
> That's the real question.
In a former life I was a tool & diemaker.
>
> Did you watch the videos on his web page?
> It's worth it to do this so you know exactly what you get.
Yes. Repeatedly.
Based on several positive responses and the lack of any negative ones thus
far, The Ts-Aligner just got added to my wish list. When I tuned my saw
last year, I used a toolmakers surface gage with an indicator mounted and
riding in a miter slot. I got things to within about .0005" of right ...
more than close enough. But it took me all afternoon to do it. I'd like to
make re-checking alignment a 5 minute job.
So far, it sounds as if the aligner is the tool to accomplish that.
Using sandpaper to sharpen chisels and irons.
Ken Muldrew
[email protected]
(remove all letters after y in the alphabet)
Buy ONCE - cry ONCE.
It's so easy to buy an "inexpensive" tool and "making do with it".
It's like using a dull tool - more effort, more aggravation, more
time, and often not even an acceptable result - to say nothing
of the often associated injuries.
I think it was Walt Akers who wrote an article about the fact
that all power tools cost at least $1,100. You can buy a $400
model, add another $400 in "uprgrades" over the next few years,
screw up a couple of hundred dollars worth of wood and another
hundred or two in wasted time and frustration. OR, you could
get the $1,100 unit first and spend the time you save using
the wood you saved - to actually make things.
charlie b
Leuf <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> When pulling apart a joint during dry fitting make sure what stops the
> piece is not your chin. It's just a shame I can't seem to follow it.
>
>
> -Leuf
>
Don't look down or you might get a bloody nose! :-)
Puckdropper
--
Wise is the man who attempts to answer his question before asking it.
To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm
"Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote in news:1162312807.471689.252290
@e3g2000cwe.googlegroups.com:
> For me it was this one:
>
> A tip I learned here, and one of the most wonderful timesavers EVAR.
> Shoot your nails, say when installing baseboard or window trim, through
> a piece of masking tape. Then apply the filler. Then remove tape.
> Minimal sanding. I now do a few face-frames that way too... forget
> about bicuits and pocketscrews... (Only applies when painting
> afterwards, of course.)
>
> I wish I could remember who posted that tip...but thank you!
>
> r
>
When just starting out with routers, but one of those cheap multi-sets
and see how you like the profile. When a bit wears out, buy a good
quality bit.
Puckdropper
--
Wise is the man who attempts to answer his question before asking it.
To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm
Leuf wrote:
>
> When pulling apart a joint during dry fitting make sure what stops the
> piece is not your chin. It's just a shame I can't seem to follow it.
>
> -Leuf
Or farther up your face
http://home.comcast.net/~charliebcz/OOPS/OOPS1.html
charlie b
also see caveat re: mortising chisel stuck in a mortise.
Bill wrote:
> I came here specifically to ask about the TS-Aligner.
>
> It's expensive.
>
> Is it worth the money?
If you're doing carpentry - probably not.
If you're a Cut To Size, Beat To Fit woodworker
- probably not.
If you're doing furniture and need to make accurate
cuts, join edges, plane faces, resaw for thick veneer,
etc., etc. - using power tools - yes. Accuracy errors
for some unknown reason tend to accumulate rather
than cancel each other out. Proper tool set up helps
reduce the problem to "just" the Loose Nut operating
the tools (me in my case).
If you want to KNOW that your saw blade is parallel
to the miter slot or if you want to KNOW your fence
is parallel to the miter slot - yes.
If you want to KNOW if there's run out on the saw arbor
or the saw blade, and how much - yes.
If you want to to KNOW if there's run out on your
drill press, or a bit in your drill press - yes.
If you want to KNOW if your router table router
or a bit in it has run out and how much - yes.
If you want to KNOW if your joiner tables are parallel
to the cutter head - yes.
If you want to KNOW if your joiner knives are all the
same distance from from the infeed or outfeed table
- yes.
And if you're blessed (or cursed) with a sliding table
on your table saw and want to KNOW if it tracks
parallel to the miter slot - yes.
It's a good tool and for what it'll do - well worth the
price. And the customer support is up there with
Lee Valley - which is saying a lot.
charlie b
Brian Henderson <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> On Thu, 02 Nov 2006 16:58:44 GMT, tommyboy <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>Don't remember who first posted this but I use it every time I begin a
>>session in my shop. Before doing anything, I put 10 things back in
>>their proper place. Sandpaper, drill bits, pencils, whatever
>
> I haven't had much chance to be out in the shop for a while now, but
> about a week ago, I went out there and my workbench was full of junk,
> tools, pencils, etc. I know I put all of that away the last time I
> was out there, I never leave the shop without putting everything away.
>
> I think my tools are migrating for the winter.
If you used a nice warm wood for the workbench top rather than a cold
metal for the drawers, it's no wonder they're migrating. It's cold! :-)
Puckdropper
--
Wise is the man who attempts to answer his question before asking it.
To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm
Tue, Oct 31, 2006, 8:40am (EST-3) [email protected] (Robatoy) doth
sayeth:
For me it was this one: <snip>
I'm thinking it was to paint my tools. I'd heard of it before, but
had never thought of doing it myslf. Now my sons don't even "use" my
tools, let alone "borrow" them.
Borrow \Bor"row\, n. 1. Something your children do with your tools and
then drop them where they have been used, or take with no intention of
ever returning them to you. [Obs.] [1913 Webster]
JOAT
If it can't kill you, it ain't a sport.
"Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> For me it was this one:
>
> A tip I learned here, and one of the most wonderful timesavers EVAR.
> Shoot your nails, say when installing baseboard or window trim, through
> a piece of masking tape. Then apply the filler. Then remove tape.
> Minimal sanding. I now do a few face-frames that way too... forget
> about bicuits and pocketscrews... (Only applies when painting
> afterwards, of course.)
>
> I wish I could remember who posted that tip...but thank you!
>
> r
>
dont eat yellow snow
BIN is tinted shelac.
"onoahimahi" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> My tip is the only way to keep knots from bleeding though painted
> woodwork is shellac. Forget Kiltz or any other stain killer paint
> (unless you use shellac first).
>
> My father told me this and I didn't believe him and I used a stain
> killer paint (BIN) on some old woodwork. One year later the knots
> bleed though again. Then I built a shelf for my sons closest out of a
> piece of pine with huge knots that that were practically oozing sap. I
> painted the knots with 3 coats of shellac followed by stain kill paint,
> followed by latex. After three years there is sill no sign of the knots
> in the closet or on the old woodwork.
>
> I've also used it outside on that pre-primed pine trim that Home
> Depot/Lowes sells with good success. I think they prime it so you
> can't see how many knots are present. Same formula, thee coats
> shellac, followed by stain kill paint, followed by latex.
>
> Scott
>
"Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> For me it was this one:
>
> A tip I learned here, and one of the most wonderful timesavers EVAR.
> Shoot your nails, say when installing baseboard or window trim, through
> a piece of masking tape. Then apply the filler. Then remove tape.
> Minimal sanding. I now do a few face-frames that way too... forget
> about bicuits and pocketscrews... (Only applies when painting
> afterwards, of course.)
>
> I wish I could remember who posted that tip...but thank you!
>
> r
>
Kill file trolls and knot heads.
"Frank Boettcher" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On 31 Oct 2006 08:40:07 -0800, "Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>For me it was this one:
>>
> I needed to get a quick primer on purchasing, proper preparation and
> use of hide glue to fix that kids bass. Got all the info I needed
> here
>>
>>r
>
www.leevalley.com
tommyboy <[email protected]> wrote in news:0q8kk21nsqfcotl6puijgtf6ctamscqqvv@
4ax.com:
> Don't remember who first posted this but I use it every time I begin a
> session in my shop. Before doing anything, I put 10 things back in
> their proper place. Sandpaper, drill bits, pencils, whatever
>
That one was a real life changer for me, too. Particularly if my son has
been in my shop since I last was working.
Now I can find most stuff pretty quickly.
Patriarch
Yep.
"Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> I came here specifically to ask about the TS-Aligner.
>
> It's expensive.
>
> Is it worth the money?
>
> Bill
And blood stains from clothing.
On Sat, 04 Nov 2006 13:46:35 GMT, [email protected] (Doug Miller)
wrote:
>In article <[email protected]>, Brian Henderson <[email protected]> wrote:
>>On Wed, 01 Nov 2006 14:52:36 -0500, Mike Patterson
>><[email protected]> wrote:
>>>2nd - Scary Sharp
>>
>>Which is really, really cool and probably one of the most valuable
>>things out there for new woodworkers to learn.
>
>The one real disadvantage to making your chisels and such Scary Sharp is that
>if you happen to brush against the edge, there's no pain. The first sign that
>you've cut yourself is seeing drops of blood appearing on your work.
>
>Here's another tip: hydrogen peroxide does a great job of removing bloodstains
>from wood. DAMHIKT. Or *why* I know this...
In article <[email protected]>, "Schroeder" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Cut my gums on a lot of advise on the wreck, but the one that saved me a LOT
>of work was to use a piece of sharpened copper tubing wrenched into a drill
>to auger out around a busted brass screw, sets up for a clean plug - thanks
>again to whoever imparted that wee bit of wisdom (Charlie b..I think...)
>
For me, it's a tossup between learning about Lee Valley, and the TS-Aligner.
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.
On 31 Oct 2006 08:40:07 -0800, "Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote:
>For me it was this one:
>
>A tip I learned here, and one of the most wonderful timesavers EVAR.
>Shoot your nails, say when installing baseboard or window trim, through
>a piece of masking tape. Then apply the filler. Then remove tape.
>Minimal sanding. I now do a few face-frames that way too... forget
>about bicuits and pocketscrews... (Only applies when painting
>afterwards, of course.)
>
>I wish I could remember who posted that tip...but thank you!
>
>r
1st - Norm is nuts, do NOT wipe the glue squeezeout with a damp cloth,
instead don't get glue on your stock in the first place
2nd - Scary Sharp
3rd - a small electric iron and a touch of water will make most dents
and shallow "scratches" disappear as long as the wood fibers aren't
broken or cut. And sometimes when they ARE.
Mike
Mike Patterson
Please remove the spamtrap to email me.
"I always wanted to be somebody...I should have been more specific..." - Lily Tomlin
Cut my gums on a lot of advise on the wreck, but the one that saved me a LOT
of work was to use a piece of sharpened copper tubing wrenched into a drill
to auger out around a busted brass screw, sets up for a clean plug - thanks
again to whoever imparted that wee bit of wisdom (Charlie b..I think...)
Schroeder
"Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> For me it was this one:
>
> A tip I learned here, and one of the most wonderful timesavers EVAR.
> Shoot your nails, say when installing baseboard or window trim, through
> a piece of masking tape. Then apply the filler. Then remove tape.
> Minimal sanding. I now do a few face-frames that way too... forget
> about bicuits and pocketscrews... (Only applies when painting
> afterwards, of course.)
>
> I wish I could remember who posted that tip...but thank you!
>
> r
>
"N Hurst" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> HotRod wrote:
>> What the Heck does the masking tape do?
> Keeps the filler from getting all over the wood.
>
> You have to sand a dot of filler that's maybe 1/16" instead of a square
> inch of wood-filler smeared wood.
That is a reason but the primary reason is to keep the putty/filler out of
the surrounding grain. Putty in the grain is very hard to remove with out
sanding a divot in the wood.
On Thu, 02 Nov 2006 16:58:44 GMT, tommyboy <[email protected]> wrote:
>Don't remember who first posted this but I use it every time I begin a
>session in my shop. Before doing anything, I put 10 things back in
>their proper place. Sandpaper, drill bits, pencils, whatever
I haven't had much chance to be out in the shop for a while now, but
about a week ago, I went out there and my workbench was full of junk,
tools, pencils, etc. I know I put all of that away the last time I
was out there, I never leave the shop without putting everything away.
I think my tools are migrating for the winter.
In article <[email protected]>, "Bill" <[email protected]> wrote:
>On Wed, 01 Nov 2006 19:05:43 +0000, Doug Miller wrote:
>
>> For me, it's a tossup between learning about Lee Valley, and the TS-Aligner.
>>
>I came here specifically to ask about the TS-Aligner.
>
>It's expensive.
>
>Is it worth the money?
I bought the TS-Aligner Junior, actually. And yes, it's worth the money.
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.
On Wed, 01 Nov 2006 14:52:36 -0500, Mike Patterson
<[email protected]> wrote:
>1st - Norm is nuts, do NOT wipe the glue squeezeout with a damp cloth,
>instead don't get glue on your stock in the first place
Norm isn't nuts, he just isn't the end-all, be-all of woodworking.
From Norm, I've learned to avoid his full-auto brad nailer and
painting expensive wood because he can't finish worth a damn.
>2nd - Scary Sharp
Which is really, really cool and probably one of the most valuable
things out there for new woodworkers to learn.
On 31 Oct 2006 08:40:07 -0800, "Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote:
>For me it was this one:
>
I needed to get a quick primer on purchasing, proper preparation and
use of hide glue to fix that kids bass. Got all the info I needed
here
>
>r
"Bill" <[email protected]> writes:
> I came here specifically to ask about the TS-Aligner.
>
> It's expensive.
>
> Is it worth the money?
Depends. How fussy are you about precision?
That's the real question.
Did you watch the videos on his web page?
It's worth it to do this so you know exactly what you get.
If you want to get an alignment tool, check out the comparisons on
Ed's web page. I didn't buy any of the other tools (except for a dial
indicator on a stick) but by careful reading, I considered the TS
Aligner Jr to be the Cream of the Crop.
(And do they have videos?)
I don't know by name those who makes the alignment tools that the
catalogs sell. Having Ed's personal service with any problems on the
TS Aligner Jr is worth a lot to me.
--
Sending unsolicited commercial e-mail to this account incurs a fee of
$500 per message, and acknowledges the legality of this contract.
"Bill" <[email protected]> writes:
> Based on several positive responses and the lack of any negative ones thus
> far, The Ts-Aligner just got added to my wish list. When I tuned my saw
> last year, I used a toolmakers surface gage with an indicator mounted and
> riding in a miter slot. I got things to within about .0005" of right ...
> more than close enough. But it took me all afternoon to do it. I'd like to
> make re-checking alignment a 5 minute job.
>
> So far, it sounds as if the aligner is the tool to accomplish that.
Yup!
I spend the time to read the comparisons Ed makes to competitive
products on his web page. The competition with MasterGage makes
interesting reading.
http://www.ts-aligner.com/tsjrvsmg.htm
I think this gives you better insight into what Ed feels is
important. If other other manufacturers made such info available, it
would be wonderful for intelligent consumers.
The decision was a no-brainer. I knew I was getting the best product available.
--
Sending unsolicited commercial e-mail to this account incurs a fee of
$500 per message, and acknowledges the legality of this contract.