I'm thinking of building this beast as a workbench:
http://www.shopnotes.com/images/issues/089/heavy-duty-workbench-medium.jpg
If you're too shy to go to the page, it's a workbench with 2 full 3/4" MDF
layers and 2 "semi" MDF layers for the top (MDF on the ends and edges), and
a hardwood banding around the edges of the MDF. Looks to be very stable and
heavy.
My question is: will the MDF do alright for using benchdogs, or will the MDF
wear out quickly? I'm thinking of the round Veritas dogs for easy
installation.
Cheers!
Dukester
I built a workbench using lumber and MDF. I used two ¾ MDF slabs (30x80) for
the table top. The finishing touch was ¼ hardboard on top of the MDF and it
functions just fine. Use a table saw to cut MDF. You might need some help
cutting the MDF, depending on the size of your table top. Also, I used a
nice trim to finish the edges.
Happy woodworking!
Mike
"Dukester" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm thinking of building this beast as a workbench:
>
> http://www.shopnotes.com/images/issues/089/heavy-duty-workbench-medium.jpg
>
> If you're too shy to go to the page, it's a workbench with 2 full 3/4" MDF
> layers and 2 "semi" MDF layers for the top (MDF on the ends and edges),
> and a hardwood banding around the edges of the MDF. Looks to be very
> stable and heavy.
>
> My question is: will the MDF do alright for using benchdogs, or will the
> MDF wear out quickly? I'm thinking of the round Veritas dogs for easy
> installation.
>
> Cheers!
> Dukester
>
Dukester wrote:
> I'm thinking of building this beast as a workbench:
>
> http://www.shopnotes.com/images/issues/089/heavy-duty-workbench-medium.jpg
>
> If you're too shy to go to the page, it's a workbench with 2 full 3/4" MDF
> layers and 2 "semi" MDF layers for the top (MDF on the ends and edges), and
> a hardwood banding around the edges of the MDF. Looks to be very stable and
> heavy.
>
> My question is: will the MDF do alright for using benchdogs, or will the MDF
> wear out quickly? I'm thinking of the round Veritas dogs for easy
> installation.
>
> Cheers!
> Dukester
I wouldn't trust the MDF to stay flat around the holes personally.
Could you rout out a 1.5" channel along your bench, and mount a nice
3/4" thick strip of oak or maple or something in there for your bench
dogs?
-Nathan
> Could you rout out a 1.5" channel along your bench, and mount a nice
> 3/4" thick strip of oak or maple or something in there for your bench
> dogs?
>
> -Nathan
I like that idea - even a 1/4" thick strip of something hard would last
a lot longer than plain MDF. I may have to implement something like
that in my own bench (holdfast has been purchased but not yet
installed; bench is 2 layers of melamine-coated particleboard over 1.5"
pine). Wouldn't be too difficult with a router and clamped
straightedge guide.
Thanks,
Andy
Dukester wrote:
> I'm thinking of building this beast as a workbench:
>
> http://www.shopnotes.com/images/issues/089/heavy-duty-workbench-medium.jpg
>
> If you're too shy to go to the page, it's a workbench with 2 full 3/4" MDF
> layers and 2 "semi" MDF layers for the top (MDF on the ends and edges), and
> a hardwood banding around the edges of the MDF. Looks to be very stable and
> heavy.
>
> My question is: will the MDF do alright for using benchdogs, or will the MDF
> wear out quickly? I'm thinking of the round Veritas dogs for easy
> installation.
I never saw that picture but when I built my bench, my budget limited
me to what was on hand. That was, a load of white oak two by fours
rough cut, some hard maple I got from a freebie pile, and a whole lot
of mdf from when I pulled out some shelves. I knew mdf sagged, but it
was either that or no bench. And I had two NICE vintage vises a friend
had given me.
I layered three of the 3/4 mdf and banded it with the oak, and used the
oak for the legs and braces too. Came out pretty flat. When I put a
straightedge across the length, at the very middle, you could get a
corner of a dollar bill under the middle but not the whole bill. It's
been two years and I think you can get more of the corner under the
straightedge but not the whole dollar bill. And it's massive but it
rolls on its casters just fine and when I raise the casters it's solid
on the floor.
I've got a row of dog holes in it and use Veritas dogs. I don't think I
use them enough to say it's getting normal use, but I do use 'em.When I
finished it with Waterlox, I also put some in the dog holes. The dogs
are still hard to slide around. I *think* the holes are beginning to
wear. If they do, I plan to drill out the holes to a larger size, plug
'em with a hardwood, and drill that out. Or something like that.
I'll figure something out. I like that bench. I figured it would be one
of those things where as soon as I build it and use it, I'll figure out
what I really want in a bench and I'll build another one. I just
haven't had cause to feel that way yet. This sucker is solid and
dependable and it rolls around when I want it to and stays put when I
tell it to. I even like the way it looks.
I don't know if that's a recommendation or not. I guess I should say
that I don't think two layers of MDF is enough, and the bands on the
sides don't look thick enough in that picture but I'm probably not
objective any more.
Oh, and mine is smaller in length and width. That probably has an
effect.
Do you use benchdogs on it?
"Teddy Bear" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:0warh.668073$5R2.306847@pd7urf3no...
>I built a workbench using lumber and MDF. I used two ¾ MDF slabs (30x80)
>for the table top. The finishing touch was ¼ hardboard on top of the MDF
>and it functions just fine. Use a table saw to cut MDF. You might need some
>help cutting the MDF, depending on the size of your table top. Also, I used
>a nice trim to finish the edges.
>
>
>
> Happy woodworking!
>
>
>
> Mike
>
>
>
> "Dukester" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> I'm thinking of building this beast as a workbench:
>>
>> http://www.shopnotes.com/images/issues/089/heavy-duty-workbench-medium.jpg
>>
>> If you're too shy to go to the page, it's a workbench with 2 full 3/4"
>> MDF layers and 2 "semi" MDF layers for the top (MDF on the ends and
>> edges), and a hardwood banding around the edges of the MDF. Looks to be
>> very stable and heavy.
>>
>> My question is: will the MDF do alright for using benchdogs, or will the
>> MDF wear out quickly? I'm thinking of the round Veritas dogs for easy
>> installation.
>>
>> Cheers!
>> Dukester
>>
>
>
On Tue, 16 Jan 2007 10:36:54 -0600, "Dukester"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I'm thinking of building this beast as a workbench:
>
>http://www.shopnotes.com/images/issues/089/heavy-duty-workbench-medium.jpg
>
>If you're too shy to go to the page, it's a workbench with 2 full 3/4" MDF
>layers and 2 "semi" MDF layers for the top (MDF on the ends and edges), and
>a hardwood banding around the edges of the MDF. Looks to be very stable and
>heavy.
>
>My question is: will the MDF do alright for using benchdogs, or will the MDF
>wear out quickly? I'm thinking of the round Veritas dogs for easy
>installation.
I don't know if it would work or not with dogs, but my personal
inclination would be to route a dado along the top and lay in some
solid wood where the dog holes are being drilled. Doesn't necessarily
have to be a hardwood, if you're trying to do it on the cheap- some 1x
pine boards would go a long way towards preserving a decent hole for
the dogs.
The thing I'm thinking of here, and your results may vary, is that
with my square dog holes and homemade dogs, there is just a little
play in there, so that they tilt a couple of degrees when the clamping
pressure is applied. From what I've done with mdf in the past, that
seems like a recipe for crushed and crumbling edges.
Just route the groove. Why all the screwing around?
"Lee Michaels" <leemichaels*nadaspam*@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> No need to use a router when a saw will do. You can even use a saw guide
> and cut multiple times if the top is already assembled. It would be like a
> long dado cut. Clean the groove out with a chisel or router. Just make
sure
> that there is no metal in the way of any blade or bit.
>
>
I did precisely that because the dogs blew out the holes in very short
order. I also added a strip on the underside (though not inlaid) for
where the dog end comes through the bottom of the table. No problems since.
J.
N Hurst wrote:
> Could you rout out a 1.5" channel along your bench, and mount a nice
> 3/4" thick strip of oak or maple or something in there for your bench
> dogs?
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> I never saw that picture but when I built my bench, my budget limited
> me to what was on hand. That was, a load of white oak two by fours
> rough cut, some hard maple I got from a freebie pile, and a whole lot
> of mdf from when I pulled out some shelves. I knew mdf sagged, but it
> was either that or no bench. And I had two NICE vintage vises a friend
> had given me.
....>
> I don't know if that's a recommendation or not. I guess I should say
> that I don't think two layers of MDF is enough, and the bands on the
> sides don't look thick enough in that picture but I'm probably not
> objective any more.
It's good enough for me. Actually the bench has 2 full slabs of MDF on top
of 2 12" slabs around the perimeter (I think the article was trying to get
by using 3 whole sheets). In any case, where to dog holes will be it would
actually be 4 layers thick. I may try the wooden dogs first or even some
plastic ones Rockler sent me a while back for free.
Thanks for the info!
Cheers!
Dukester
Using steel bench in hole bore in MDF may work for occasional use.
Now that your bench is all build you have to use it. I would first try
wooden dogs and do a dry run with steel also.
Normally hole bored in thick hardwood is preferred. However, if after
several use of the steel dogs you notice some damage you will have to stop
and find an alternate way. On the other hand with the amount of work you
are doing it may work fairly good.
If not you may have to rebore the holes to accommodate some metal
sleeves/bushings. A snug fit with epoxy should hole the bushings in place.
When you make your bushings make sure that the inside diameter is bore with
a close tolerance . This will held to minimized the play between the dogs
and the inside of the bushing. If you have too much play between the
outside diameter of the dog and inside of the bushing it will eventually
cause enlargement of the holes in the MDF.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Dukester wrote:
>> I'm thinking of building this beast as a workbench:
>>
>> http://www.shopnotes.com/images/issues/089/heavy-duty-workbench-medium.jpg
>>
>> If you're too shy to go to the page, it's a workbench with 2 full 3/4"
>> MDF
>> layers and 2 "semi" MDF layers for the top (MDF on the ends and edges),
>> and
>> a hardwood banding around the edges of the MDF. Looks to be very stable
>> and
>> heavy.
>>
>> My question is: will the MDF do alright for using benchdogs, or will the
>> MDF
>> wear out quickly? I'm thinking of the round Veritas dogs for easy
>> installation.
>
> I never saw that picture but when I built my bench, my budget limited
> me to what was on hand. That was, a load of white oak two by fours
> rough cut, some hard maple I got from a freebie pile, and a whole lot
> of mdf from when I pulled out some shelves. I knew mdf sagged, but it
> was either that or no bench. And I had two NICE vintage vises a friend
> had given me.
>
> I layered three of the 3/4 mdf and banded it with the oak, and used the
> oak for the legs and braces too. Came out pretty flat. When I put a
> straightedge across the length, at the very middle, you could get a
> corner of a dollar bill under the middle but not the whole bill. It's
> been two years and I think you can get more of the corner under the
> straightedge but not the whole dollar bill. And it's massive but it
> rolls on its casters just fine and when I raise the casters it's solid
> on the floor.
>
> I've got a row of dog holes in it and use Veritas dogs. I don't think I
> use them enough to say it's getting normal use, but I do use 'em.When I
> finished it with Waterlox, I also put some in the dog holes. The dogs
> are still hard to slide around. I *think* the holes are beginning to
> wear. If they do, I plan to drill out the holes to a larger size, plug
> 'em with a hardwood, and drill that out. Or something like that.
>
> I'll figure something out. I like that bench. I figured it would be one
> of those things where as soon as I build it and use it, I'll figure out
> what I really want in a bench and I'll build another one. I just
> haven't had cause to feel that way yet. This sucker is solid and
> dependable and it rolls around when I want it to and stays put when I
> tell it to. I even like the way it looks.
>
> I don't know if that's a recommendation or not. I guess I should say
> that I don't think two layers of MDF is enough, and the bands on the
> sides don't look thick enough in that picture but I'm probably not
> objective any more.
>
> Oh, and mine is smaller in length and width. That probably has an
> effect.
>
"Andy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>> Could you rout out a 1.5" channel along your bench, and mount a nice
>> 3/4" thick strip of oak or maple or something in there for your bench
>> dogs?
>>
>> -Nathan
>
> I like that idea - even a 1/4" thick strip of something hard would last
> a lot longer than plain MDF. I may have to implement something like
> that in my own bench (holdfast has been purchased but not yet
> installed; bench is 2 layers of melamine-coated particleboard over 1.5"
> pine). Wouldn't be too difficult with a router and clamped
> straightedge guide.
> Thanks,
> Andy
>
MDF could dull your router bit fairly quickly.
The best way to do this sort of thing is to incorporate the hardwood during
construction. Just cut the peices to total the top work surface area. Then
join everything together with glue and whatever fasteners you were going to
use.
No need to use a router when a saw will do. You can even use a saw guide
and cut multiple times if the top is already assembled. It would be like a
long dado cut. Clean the groove out with a chisel or router. Just make sure
that there is no metal in the way of any blade or bit.
I used plastic pipe for the inserts on my MDF workbench, and it's gone over
seven years without any problems. The grey threaded stuff cuts easy and is
not so hard that I have to worry about hitting it if I get careless. There
are two things I encountered however:
1. The outside diameter is non-standard. for drilling the holes, I ground
down a spade bit.
2. While very close, I discovered that some of the piping is slightly off
size. I did not notice this for years until I got some dogs that were too
snug. Five minutes with a drill fixed that.
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
> Using steel bench in hole bore in MDF may work for occasional use.
> Now that your bench is all build you have to use it. I would first try
> wooden dogs and do a dry run with steel also.
> Normally hole bored in thick hardwood is preferred. However, if after
> several use of the steel dogs you notice some damage you will have to stop
> and find an alternate way. On the other hand with the amount of work you
> are doing it may work fairly good.
> If not you may have to rebore the holes to accommodate some metal
> sleeves/bushings. A snug fit with epoxy should hole the bushings in place.
> When you make your bushings make sure that the inside diameter is bore with
> a close tolerance . This will held to minimized the play between the dogs
> and the inside of the bushing. If you have too much play between the
> outside diameter of the dog and inside of the bushing it will eventually
> cause enlargement of the holes in the MDF.
>
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> >
> > Dukester wrote:
> >> I'm thinking of building this beast as a workbench:
> >>
> >> http://www.shopnotes.com/images/issues/089/heavy-duty-workbench-medium.jpg
> >>
> >> If you're too shy to go to the page, it's a workbench with 2 full 3/4"
> >> MDF
> >> layers and 2 "semi" MDF layers for the top (MDF on the ends and edges),
> >> and
> >> a hardwood banding around the edges of the MDF. Looks to be very stable
> >> and
> >> heavy.
> >>
> >> My question is: will the MDF do alright for using benchdogs, or will the
> >> MDF
> >> wear out quickly? I'm thinking of the round Veritas dogs for easy
> >> installation.
> >
> > I never saw that picture but when I built my bench, my budget limited
> > me to what was on hand. That was, a load of white oak two by fours
> > rough cut, some hard maple I got from a freebie pile, and a whole lot
> > of mdf from when I pulled out some shelves. I knew mdf sagged, but it
> > was either that or no bench. And I had two NICE vintage vises a friend
> > had given me.
> >
> > I layered three of the 3/4 mdf and banded it with the oak, and used the
> > oak for the legs and braces too. Came out pretty flat. When I put a
> > straightedge across the length, at the very middle, you could get a
> > corner of a dollar bill under the middle but not the whole bill. It's
> > been two years and I think you can get more of the corner under the
> > straightedge but not the whole dollar bill. And it's massive but it
> > rolls on its casters just fine and when I raise the casters it's solid
"Dukester" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> My question is: will the MDF do alright for using benchdogs, or will the
> MDF wear out quickly? I'm thinking of the round Veritas dogs for easy
> installation.
I took a course at a Woodcraft store and they had benches made from MDF and
the dog holes were OK. Overall, it was a beefy, low cost bench.
I opted for plywood, two sheets of 3/4". I just like the looks of it better
and the cost was minimal over the MDF.
On Tue, 16 Jan 2007 23:03:35 -0500, "Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>"Dukester" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>
>> My question is: will the MDF do alright for using benchdogs, or will the
>> MDF wear out quickly? I'm thinking of the round Veritas dogs for easy
>> installation.
>
>I took a course at a Woodcraft store and they had benches made from MDF and
>the dog holes were OK. Overall, it was a beefy, low cost bench.
>
>I opted for plywood, two sheets of 3/4". I just like the looks of it better
>and the cost was minimal over the MDF.
Just another option for low-cost benches- mine is 100% jummywood. I
got about $50 in framing 2x4s, and ripped a 1/4" off either edge to
make lumber with square corners. Using the 3" x 1.5" lumber, I routed
3" wide by 3/4" deep dadoes at the top and about 5" up from the bottom
of each leg piece, and then glued the halves together to make easy
through mortises that one of my modified 2x4s would slide into.
The long stretchers are slid into those through mortises, and glued in
place, and feet on either end take the place of the short stretchers.
With that done, I made the top by laminating the remaining 2x4s
face-to-face to make a top that is 3" thick. I took the extra step of
boring a couple of holes through the edge and running some threaded
rod through to make extra sure that the top would not delaminate, but
I doubt that is necessary.
While it may not sound like much, being made from framing lumber, it's
really sturdy, and looks quite a lot like one you might see in a
woodworking catalog. It's held up well for quite a while, and a bit
of plywood laid over the bottom stretchers makes for a handy shelf.
Biggest problem in the whole project was hand-planing the top after
glue-up. If I'd have had a handheld belt sander, that would have been
much easier. What I've got described above might vary a little from
what I did, as I've got it mixed up a little with the router table
stand in my head right now, but am too lazy to go check- I figure
that's good enough to give the general idea, anyhow.