"John DeBoo" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Wasn't it mineral oil most use on new cutting boards, rolling pins and
> such? Damned if I can remember, even if I've read it over and over.
> John
Mineral oil is not a finish. It will only penetrate and never harden. I
does nothing for the wood in terms of a cutting board. It will make wooden
kitchen items look good for a while, like until the first time it is used,
and it is completely harmless to humans. It is a nice touch to pretty up a
gift, and will last at least until the party is over. There is not real
trick to using it, although warming the oil and/or the wood will help it
penetrate. I like to put it on cutting boards and bowls. Rubbing beeswax
over the top will prolong the look a bit.
For a nice drying oil, try this stuff:
http://www.bowlmakerinc.com/catalognew.html?Vl=3&Tp=2&SortBy=ID
--
Bill Pounds
http://www.billpounds.com/woodshop
"John DeBoo" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Wasn't it mineral oil most use on new cutting boards, rolling pins and
> such? Damned if I can remember, even if I've read it over and over.
> John
Better to use walnut oil. Sinks in, cures, gives a bit of water resistance
without making a swiffer out of your cutting board.
"Kenneth" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sat, 16 Apr 2005 18:52:25 -0400, "George" <george@least>
> wrote:
>
> >
> >"John DeBoo" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >news:[email protected]...
> >> Wasn't it mineral oil most use on new cutting boards, rolling pins and
> >> such? Damned if I can remember, even if I've read it over and over.
> >> John
> >
> >Better to use walnut oil. Sinks in, cures, gives a bit of water
resistance
> >without making a swiffer out of your cutting board.
> >
>
> But it can become rancid, and some people are allergic to
> it... Stick with mineral oil for food-related stuff.
>
It is a curing oil - does not become rancid in open air.
They're not allergic to walnut oil - one in 100,000 is allergic to some
degree to nut proteins.
On the other hand, bacteria and oil-soluble foodstuffs of all sorts find
comfort and shelter from detergents in an oil which does not cure. Not to
mention dirt and dust collection.
"Max" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:OjS8e.227$%[email protected]...
>
> "SonomaProducts.com" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Amen, Walunt or any food based oil is bad news. Pure mineral oil is
> > best.
> >
>
> Whatever happened to Behlen's Salad Bowl Finish?
>
Tung oil varnish.
"John DeBoo" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> Thanks to you and to Edwin. If there is a trick I hope someone posts it
> as I'm ready to try it out!
I use unscented baby oil (I think it's mineral oil) and rub it in with
superfine 4000 grit steel wool. It works great.
On Sat, 16 Apr 2005 18:52:25 -0400, "George" <george@least>
wrote:
>
>"John DeBoo" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> Wasn't it mineral oil most use on new cutting boards, rolling pins and
>> such? Damned if I can remember, even if I've read it over and over.
>> John
>
>Better to use walnut oil. Sinks in, cures, gives a bit of water resistance
>without making a swiffer out of your cutting board.
>
But it can become rancid, and some people are allergic to
it... Stick with mineral oil for food-related stuff.
All the best,
--
Kenneth
If you email... Please remove the "SPAMLESS."
"John DeBoo" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Wasn't it mineral oil most use on new cutting boards, rolling pins and
> such? Damned if I can remember, even if I've read it over and over.
> John
Yes, it is available as most any store in the H & BA department or the
pharmacy.
"SonomaProducts.com" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Amen, Walunt or any food based oil is bad news. Pure mineral oil is
> best.
>
Whatever happened to Behlen's Salad Bowl Finish?
Max D.
"Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> I use unscented baby oil (I think it's mineral oil) and rub it in with
> superfine 4000 grit steel wool. It works great.
>
>
So have I but not with steel wool. You light a couple of candles, but on
some soft music . . . .
Walnut oil is a drying oil - ii hasn't gone rancid on me. I've had very good
results using it on chopping blocks - end grain. Works somewhat less well on
long grain - although others have used it by dipping parts in heated walnut oil
Allergies could be a concern - probably less after the oil has dried.
--
JeffB
remove no.spam. to email
Kenneth wrote:
> On Sat, 16 Apr 2005 18:52:25 -0400, "George" <george@least>
> wrote:
>
>
>>"John DeBoo" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>news:[email protected]...
>>
>>>Wasn't it mineral oil most use on new cutting boards, rolling pins and
>>>such? Damned if I can remember, even if I've read it over and over.
>>>John
>>
>>Better to use walnut oil. Sinks in, cures, gives a bit of water resistance
>>without making a swiffer out of your cutting board.
>>
>
>
> But it can become rancid, and some people are allergic to
> it... Stick with mineral oil for food-related stuff.
>
> All the best,
I think maybe you're just putting too much on? I usually dribble drops
down the length of the wood in question and then vigorously rub it
around with a clean cloth until all the surface is noticeably moist
looking, but not slick. It remains "oily" for a few hours, but usually
it's quite useable after that.
> Thanks to you and to Edwin. If there is a trick I hope someone posts it
> as I'm ready to try it out!
> John
>
> woodworker88 wrote:
>
> > You're right about the mineral oil. I believe there is a trick to
> > getting the mineral oil to soak into the wood and not just make the
> > surface slick that involves soaking or rubbing, but I'm not sure.
> >
Yes. Think of mineral as non-living or never living and therefore
never spoiling and no rancid smell. It has low toxicity.
On Sat, 16 Apr 2005 14:10:27 -0600, John DeBoo <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Wasn't it mineral oil most use on new cutting boards, rolling pins and
>such? Damned if I can remember, even if I've read it over and over.
>John
On Sat, 16 Apr 2005 14:10:27 -0600, John DeBoo <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Wasn't it mineral oil most use on new cutting boards, rolling pins and
>such? Damned if I can remember, even if I've read it over and over.
>John
Dissolve paraffin wax in warm mineral oil. Use enough wax to form a
soft gel at room temperature. Rub this into the cutting board.
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/wgoffeney/Woodworking/Woodworking.htm
On Sun, 17 Apr 2005 16:00:59 +0000, Ben Gold wrote:
> I think maybe you're just putting too much on? I usually dribble drops
> down the length of the wood in question and then vigorously rub it
> around with a clean cloth until all the surface is noticeably moist
> looking, but not slick. It remains "oily" for a few hours, but usually
> it's quite useable after that.
I re-oiled my Williams-Sonoma cutting board just last week. Set it on a
couple paper towels. Pour on mineral oil. Spread it around with fingers.
It's a deep puddle at this stage. Wait a few hours. Do it again. My board
has, with this second application, consumed a pint bottle of mineral
oil. (Less a few ccs that I used for this and that around the shop in the
meantime.)
--
"Keep your ass behind you"
vladimir a t mad {dot} scientist {dot} com
On Sun, 17 Apr 2005 10:46:08 -0700, Pounds on Wood wrote:
> Mineral oil is not a finish. It will only penetrate and never harden. I
> does nothing for the wood in terms of a cutting board. It will make wooden
> kitchen items look good for a while, like until the first time it is used,
It does fill up pores which would otherwise fill with water. I suspect
that is the purpose.
I like your beeswax idea, will give it a try.
--
"Keep your ass behind you"
vladimir a t mad {dot} scientist {dot} com
Thanks to you and to Edwin. If there is a trick I hope someone posts it
as I'm ready to try it out!
John
woodworker88 wrote:
> You're right about the mineral oil. I believe there is a trick to
> getting the mineral oil to soak into the wood and not just make the
> surface slick that involves soaking or rubbing, but I'm not sure.
>