<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> This baby is half price at Amazon and one hell of a good purchase!
>
> http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B0001LQLE2/britcomsforev-20
>
BFD! You evidently don't know how Amazon lists the prices. That kit is
available at may other places for the same price. I just checked
www.coastaltool.com and they list it as $269.
Amazon has some decent prices, but the overly inflated "list" price is not
what anything is ever sold for at any time. Try a local dealer or a
reputable place like Coastal.
I have a corded impact wrench that gets some good use, but I would not
need a cordless model.
On the other hand, a cordless impact driver is great for
driving/removing deck screws without stripping out the head. I use the
Makita 14.4V.
On Thu, 24 Feb 2005 12:56:29 -0500, Bob G.
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On 23 Feb 2005 12:46:50 -0800, [email protected] wrote:
>
>>This baby is half price at Amazon and one hell of a good purchase!
>>
>>http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B0001LQLE2/britcomsforev-20
>===============
>I have no clue...? I am a woodworker BUT I also rebuilt/restore Old
>Cars or whatever you want to call it as another hobby...and I have a
>lot of uses for impact wrenches..
>Just can not figure out WHERE I would need a cordless one...
>
>Bob Griffiths
On Thu, 03 Mar 2005 09:02:54 -0800, Larry Jaques
<novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> vaguely proposed a theory
......and in reply I say!:
remove ns from my header address to reply via email
I am not sure what is happening here.
You could _NOT_ use 1/4" hose to run 16 CFM over 100', to get 90 PSI
delivery to a working tool. It does not matter what I am using.
Also, many tools on the market _claim_ to use less than 10 CFM. There
are two factors here. One is sheer BS, the other os the fact that they
are allowed to use "multi point average" consumption figures. These
assume that the use is actually intermittent, although with many in
use in a shop, they average out to the claimed usage if you divide the
total use by the number of tools. It's also BS, but more complicated.
I've been using the Hitachi equivalent of the Makita impact driver for
several months, and it's become an essential tool. It's quite a bit
different than using a torquey drill/driver, because it is literally an
impact wrench. It'll drive deck screws easy as pie, without stripping
out heads or spraining your wrist. And it's great for getting smaller
frozen fasteners out. I don't think I would have been able to get all
of the stainless screws out of my 15 year old aluminum mast without it.
The biggest downside is that it's really LOUD, so I almost always wear
earplugs while using it.
Aaron Tinling
s/v Sweet Destiny
www.navagear.com
On Fri, 04 Mar 2005 09:47:18 +0800, the inscrutable OldNick
<[email protected]> spake:
>On Thu, 03 Mar 2005 09:02:54 -0800, Larry Jaques
><novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> vaguely proposed a theory
>......and in reply I say!:
>
> remove ns from my header address to reply via email
>
>I am not sure what is happening here.
>
>You could _NOT_ use 1/4" hose to run 16 CFM over 100', to get 90 PSI
>delivery to a working tool. It does not matter what I am using.
In looking closer at that chart, it states a 90psi inlet pressure.
It doesn't state what the outlet pressure is, just the flow. But
almost nobody makes a 1/4" 100' hose, either. Anywho, a 1/4" hose
will drop 16cfm. How's that? ;)
>Also, many tools on the market _claim_ to use less than 10 CFM. There
>are two factors here. One is sheer BS, the other os the fact that they
>are allowed to use "multi point average" consumption figures. These
>assume that the use is actually intermittent, although with many in
>use in a shop, they average out to the claimed usage if you divide the
>total use by the number of tools. It's also BS, but more complicated.
Just like Searz Horsepower, eh? <g>
==========================================================
Save the ||| http://diversify.com
Endangered SKEETS! ||| Web Application Programming
==========================================================
Woodcrafter wrote:
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>This baby is half price at Amazon and one hell of a good purchase!
>>
>>http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B0001LQLE2/britcomsforev-20
>>
>
>
> Its a blatant bid for affiliate income it seems.
Hardly looks deserving of an exclamation point.
I'm waiting for one in the $150 range. Surely it can't cost that much
more to make than a good drill-driver.
They sure are handy though.
"OldNick" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Tue, 01 Mar 2005 07:20:17 -0800, Larry Jaques
> <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> vaguely proposed a theory
> ......and in reply I say!:
>
> remove ns from my header address to reply via email
>
>
> >But aren't you using 1/4" nipples to feed it, as we do up here on the
> >top side of the world?
>
> We are talking air units here?...oh sorry.
>
> Yes. I am. But the trouble caused by
> 5 metres of 3/8" air hose
> over
> 5 metres of 1/2" air hose
> is far more than the trouble caused by a very short restriction at the
> ends.
>
> Cordin to me and my little calculators
>
> at 100 PSI in and 20 CFM
> 1/4" diameter hole 1" long = .6 PSI drop
> 3/8" diam hose 15' long = 10 PSI drop
> 1/2" diam hose 15' long = 2 PSI drop
>
> So IIAC, we have 3.2 PSI vs 11.2 PSI drop over the two lines.
But, what about the drop in air volume?
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
"Larry Jaques" wrote
> What are you running that consumes 20 CFM?!? Most shop compressors
> are sub 10 CFM up here.
>
> I've never seen it put like that, Nick. We usually talk in cfm.
> And a 1/4" orifice is large enough to pass 48.7 cfm at 40psi and
> 108 cfm at 100 psi.
>
> Air discharge through 100' of hose is 16 cfm at 90psi for 1/4" and
> 76 cfm at 90psi for 1/2". So, 1/4" hose and nipples are sufficient
> for full flow of most tools at nominal psi. 1/2" is a waste of money
> while 3/8" is the common hose size around here at $10-25 for a 50'
> length. All these from charts in Lee Valley's Handyman In Your Pocket
> reference book.
BRAVO Larry ... BRAVO (You may take your bow now).
A wonderful example of information ... related to the question at hand ...
that clarifies the situation, and not confusing it!
The next person that says that explainations such as this (real math) is too
difficult is hereby renamed "Barbie"! (or at least gets the "Ken" equipment
modification).
Rick
[ cue crowd going crazy ]
On Wed, 02 Mar 2005 16:58:17 -0800, Larry Jaques
<novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> vaguely proposed a theory
......and in reply I say!:
remove ns from my header address to reply via email
>What are you running that consumes 20 CFM?!? Most shop compressors
>are sub 10 CFM up here.
A 400 lb-ft rattle gun. An Air blower which is actually a cheap sand
blaster with no input tube. It really boosts the airflow. A cheapo ROS
that I now don't bother with.
>
>I've never seen it put like that, Nick. We usually talk in cfm.
>And a 1/4" orifice is large enough to pass 48.7 cfm at 40psi and
>108 cfm at 100 psi.
I thought I was talking in CFM. That orifice will pass that flow, but
will cause a pressure drop. But the orifices are not the problem.
maybe we are talking at cross purposes here. I said my line was too
small and you asked if I was using 1/4" nipples. I assumed you thought
the nipples were making the larger line a waste of time. My point was
that if the larger line is added to the small nipples the gain from
the line is significant.
>
>Air discharge through 100' of hose is 16 cfm at 90psi for 1/4" and
>76 cfm at 90psi for 1/2". So, 1/4" hose and nipples are sufficient
>for full flow of most tools at nominal psi. 1/2" is a waste of money
>while 3/8" is the common hose size around here at $10-25 for a 50'
>length. All these from charts in Lee Valley's Handyman In Your Pocket
>reference book.
But all of them will cause pressure loss, as I described. 100' of 1/4"
line would _waste_ 16 cfm. There would be a trickle at the other end,
according to me.
http://www.airheads.net/tech/techinfo/airline.html
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> This baby is half price at Amazon and one hell of a good purchase!
>
> http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B0001LQLE2/britcomsforev-20
>
Its a blatant bid for affiliate income it seems.
--
Regards,
Dean Bielanowski
Editor,
Online Tool Reviews
http://www.onlinetoolreviews.com
Over 70 woodworking product reviews online!
------------------------------------------------------------
Latest 6 Reviews:
- Incra V27 Miter Gauge
- GMC BJ110 Biscuit Joiner
- Karcher NT361 Dust Extractor
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------------------------------------------------------------
On Tue, 01 Mar 2005 07:20:17 -0800, Larry Jaques
<novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> vaguely proposed a theory
......and in reply I say!:
remove ns from my header address to reply via email
>But aren't you using 1/4" nipples to feed it, as we do up here on the
>top side of the world?
We are talking air units here?...oh sorry.
Yes. I am. But the trouble caused by
5 metres of 3/8" air hose
over
5 metres of 1/2" air hose
is far more than the trouble caused by a very short restriction at the
ends.
Cordin to me and my little calculators
at 100 PSI in and 20 CFM
1/4" diameter hole 1" long = .6 PSI drop
3/8" diam hose 15' long = 10 PSI drop
1/2" diam hose 15' long = 2 PSI drop
So IIAC, we have 3.2 PSI vs 11.2 PSI drop over the two lines.
Or, you could do as one poster here has done, and take a 12v rechargeable,
make an insert for a direct connection to your 12v supply, and enjoy all the
torque and (relatively) inexaustible AH of your house bank :{))
(Well, I suppose you could haul around a starting or trolling battery if you
wanted to go off the boat...)
L8R
Skip
--
Morgan 461 #2
SV Flying Pig
http://tinyurl.com/384p2
"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you
didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail
away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore.
Dream. Discover." - Mark Twain
On Tue, 01 Mar 2005 13:15:23 +0800, the inscrutable OldNick
<[email protected]> spake:
>I have to admit that it's air powered, and I am using only 3/8"
>airline. 1/2" would be better, or even 3/4". But be aware of the
>actual energy that the machine delivers. It applies a lot of force,
>but over a very short distance and for a very short time at each hit.
But aren't you using 1/4" nipples to feed it, as we do up here on the
top side of the world?
--
Remember: Every silver lining has a cloud.
----
http://diversify.com Comprehensive Website Development
On Tue, 1 Mar 2005 22:22:00 -0500, "Mike Marlow"
<[email protected]> vaguely proposed a theory
......and in reply I say!:
remove ns from my header address to reply via email
???????????
>But, what about the drop in air volume?
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Just curious as why a cordless impact driver would be better at
> removing deck screws than, say, a regular cordless drill/driver?
>
> I may be missing something.
>
Have you ever used an air or electric impact wrench doing mechanical work?
Same principal. The rapid "hammering" action does the work of tightening or
loosening the fastener without transferring the torque to your wrist. If
your deck screws are only say, 1 1/2 or 2", you might not really notice it
unless they were "seized" in the wood. However, if you're talking 3 1/2 or
4", it's going to take a lot of torque to move them. With a regular
drill/driver, ALL that torque is transferred back to your wrist. With the
cordless impact, you don't feel that torque. It also, due to the rapid
hammering action, doesn't "cam" the driver bit out of the screwhead like a
regular driver does.
--
Nahmie
Those on the cutting edge bleed a lot.
On Thu, 03 Mar 2005 19:47:18 -0800, Larry Jaques
<novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote:
>On Fri, 04 Mar 2005 09:47:18 +0800, the inscrutable OldNick
><[email protected]> spake:
>
>>On Thu, 03 Mar 2005 09:02:54 -0800, Larry Jaques
>><novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> vaguely proposed a theory
>>......and in reply I say!:
>>
>> remove ns from my header address to reply via email
>>
>>I am not sure what is happening here.
>>
>>You could _NOT_ use 1/4" hose to run 16 CFM over 100', to get 90 PSI
>>delivery to a working tool. It does not matter what I am using.
>
>In looking closer at that chart, it states a 90psi inlet pressure.
>It doesn't state what the outlet pressure is, just the flow. But
>almost nobody makes a 1/4" 100' hose, either. Anywho, a 1/4" hose
>will drop 16cfm. How's that? ;)
friction.
>
>>Also, many tools on the market _claim_ to use less than 10 CFM. There
>>are two factors here. One is sheer BS, the other os the fact that they
>>are allowed to use "multi point average" consumption figures. These
>>assume that the use is actually intermittent, although with many in
>>use in a shop, they average out to the claimed usage if you divide the
>>total use by the number of tools. It's also BS, but more complicated.
>
>Just like Searz Horsepower, eh? <g>
'zzackly.
On 24 Feb 2005 22:04:20 -0800, "Aaron" <[email protected]> wrote:
>I've been using the Hitachi equivalent of the Makita impact driver for
>several months, and it's become an essential tool. It's quite a bit
>different than using a torquey drill/driver, because it is literally an
>impact wrench. It'll drive deck screws easy as pie, without stripping
>out heads or spraining your wrist. And it's great for getting smaller
>frozen fasteners out. I don't think I would have been able to get all
>of the stainless screws out of my 15 year old aluminum mast without it.
>The biggest downside is that it's really LOUD, so I almost always wear
>earplugs while using it.
>
>Aaron Tinling
>s/v Sweet Destiny
>www.navagear.com
If it wasn't for the pricey proprietary batteries these things use, I
might have a more favorable opinion of them. The other side of the
story is limited run time with batteries. Count on them conking out
on you right in the middle of a project. The more load you put on
them, the quicker you drain the batteries. It doesn't take all that
long before you realize a real driver with an electric motor or a
pneumatic gun with an air hose is the only reliable way to do some
things.
I don't even use battery powered anything anymore except flashlights.
I've got corded drills and pneumatic drills, drivers, jack hammers,
impact wrenches, and the stuff not running off household current or an
air line are powered by 2 cycle gasoline engines.
IOW, my opinion of battery operated anything is at an all time low,
after tossing tons of money at those tools only to find out they
weren't up to the task at hand.
YMMV.
Lg
On 26 Feb 2005 18:53:33 -0800, [email protected] vaguely proposed
a theory
......and in reply I say!:
remove ns from my header address to reply via email
Well, just bear this in mind. The fact that the thing hammers has a
huge effect on the real usability. For screws etc, this will not be so
critical. But if you are thinking of replacing your socket set and a
4' cheater bar, for those really tough bolts, you need a really
serious rattle gun. I have one that is rated at 400 lb ft. It does NOT
act like a 100lb force on a 4' bar when there's a tough nut to crack.
I can easily tighten a nut more than that thing can.
I have to admit that it's air powered, and I am using only 3/8"
airline. 1/2" would be better, or even 3/4". But be aware of the
actual energy that the machine delivers. It applies a lot of force,
but over a very short distance and for a very short time at each hit.
>thx.
>
>I am gonna get one of those.
>
>ray
"Rex B" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Woodcrafter wrote:
>> <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>
>>>This baby is half price at Amazon and one hell of a good purchase!
>>>
>>>http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B0001LQLE2/britcomsforev-20
>>>
>>
>>
>> Its a blatant bid for affiliate income it seems.
>
> Hardly looks deserving of an exclamation point.
> I'm waiting for one in the $150 range. Surely it can't cost that much
> more to make than a good drill-driver.
> They sure are handy though.
Amen about the handy, brother! We bought a Ryobi 18-volt combo kit at Home
Depot for $169. It had circular and reciprocating saws, as well as a
drill-driver and two fluff pieces.
This weekend, We laid 80 sf of deck on one battery charge. That included
sinking 160 4" screws into very dense lumber. Of course, I predrilled with
my /corded/ Dewalt half-inch "widow-maker"
Any high power drill driver can be modified into a decent impact wrench with
a little ingenuity.
"Lawrence Glickman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On 24 Feb 2005 22:04:20 -0800, "Aaron" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >I've been using the Hitachi equivalent of the Makita impact driver for
> >several months, and it's become an essential tool. It's quite a bit
> >different than using a torquey drill/driver, because it is literally an
> >impact wrench. It'll drive deck screws easy as pie, without stripping
> >out heads or spraining your wrist. And it's great for getting smaller
> >frozen fasteners out. I don't think I would have been able to get all
> >of the stainless screws out of my 15 year old aluminum mast without it.
> >The biggest downside is that it's really LOUD, so I almost always wear
> >earplugs while using it.
> >
> >Aaron Tinling
> >s/v Sweet Destiny
> >www.navagear.com
>
> If it wasn't for the pricey proprietary batteries these things use, I
> might have a more favorable opinion of them. The other side of the
> story is limited run time with batteries. Count on them conking out
> on you right in the middle of a project. The more load you put on
> them, the quicker you drain the batteries. It doesn't take all that
> long before you realize a real driver with an electric motor or a
> pneumatic gun with an air hose is the only reliable way to do some
> things.
>
> I don't even use battery powered anything anymore except flashlights.
> I've got corded drills and pneumatic drills, drivers, jack hammers,
> impact wrenches, and the stuff not running off household current or an
> air line are powered by 2 cycle gasoline engines.
>
> IOW, my opinion of battery operated anything is at an all time low,
> after tossing tons of money at those tools only to find out they
> weren't up to the task at hand.
>
> YMMV.
>
> Lg
>
I had a similar opinion until I got my Ridgid 18 volt set. Comes with a 2
bay charger and charges in 30 minutes. I have never found myself without a
charged battery since.
Shawn
On Sat, 26 Feb 2005 08:18:14 -0500, "Skip Gundlach" <skipgundlach sez
use my name at earthlink dot fishcatcher (net) - with apologies for
the spamtrap> wrote:
>Or, you could do as one poster here has done, and take a 12v rechargeable,
>make an insert for a direct connection to your 12v supply, and enjoy all the
>torque and (relatively) inexaustible AH of your house bank :{))
>
>(Well, I suppose you could haul around a starting or trolling battery if you
>wanted to go off the boat...)
>
>L8R
>
>Skip
I thought about that already, but the weight to energy output ratio
vastly favors gasoline 2-cycle engines. A little bit of gas goes a
long way. For example, when I was limbing trees, I got an amazing
amount of energy/work out of a small tank of gas on my chainsaw.
To do that same amount of work with a battery and an electric saw, is
unthinkable. Battery technology hasn't advanced that far yet. If it
had, we would be driving electric-powered cars instead of
gasoline-powered cars by now.
For the foreseeable future, in terms of power/energy to weight ratio,
it appears petrol holds all the cards.
Lg
On Sat, 26 Feb 2005 00:31:19 -0500, "Shawn" <shawn_75ATcomcastDOTnet>
wrote:
>
>"Lawrence Glickman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> On 24 Feb 2005 22:04:20 -0800, "Aaron" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> >I've been using the Hitachi equivalent of the Makita impact driver for
>> >several months, and it's become an essential tool. It's quite a bit
>> >different than using a torquey drill/driver, because it is literally an
>> >impact wrench. It'll drive deck screws easy as pie, without stripping
>> >out heads or spraining your wrist. And it's great for getting smaller
>> >frozen fasteners out. I don't think I would have been able to get all
>> >of the stainless screws out of my 15 year old aluminum mast without it.
>> >The biggest downside is that it's really LOUD, so I almost always wear
>> >earplugs while using it.
>> >
>> >Aaron Tinling
>> >s/v Sweet Destiny
>> >www.navagear.com
>>
>> If it wasn't for the pricey proprietary batteries these things use, I
>> might have a more favorable opinion of them. The other side of the
>> story is limited run time with batteries. Count on them conking out
>> on you right in the middle of a project. The more load you put on
>> them, the quicker you drain the batteries. It doesn't take all that
>> long before you realize a real driver with an electric motor or a
>> pneumatic gun with an air hose is the only reliable way to do some
>> things.
>>
>> I don't even use battery powered anything anymore except flashlights.
>> I've got corded drills and pneumatic drills, drivers, jack hammers,
>> impact wrenches, and the stuff not running off household current or an
>> air line are powered by 2 cycle gasoline engines.
>>
>> IOW, my opinion of battery operated anything is at an all time low,
>> after tossing tons of money at those tools only to find out they
>> weren't up to the task at hand.
>>
>> YMMV.
>>
>> Lg
>>
>
>I had a similar opinion until I got my Ridgid 18 volt set. Comes with a 2
>bay charger and charges in 30 minutes. I have never found myself without a
>charged battery since.
>
>Shawn
It depends on what you are trying to do.
Put a 1 inch wood boring bit into that and try to chop some holes
through some 4 x 4's.
No portable battery pack I've seen to date has enough sustained energy
to do the tough stuff. If you stick to "light duty" you'll be
pleasantly surprised. If you get into something that requires ENERGY,
the batteries don't make the grade. They can't possibly hold enough
energy to do many tasks, advertising notwithstanding.
I'm amused to see people pretending to put bridges together with their
DeWalt impact wrenches. You drive over it first, OK? There isn't
enough energy in a battery to properly tighten even ONE nut/bolt
assembly. Not even a 1.
If you want to do serious work, you bring a gasoline powered electric
genny to the worksite and plug in some serious equipment. Leave the
toys at home.
Lg
On 23 Feb 2005 12:46:50 -0800, [email protected] wrote:
>This baby is half price at Amazon and one hell of a good purchase!
>
>http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B0001LQLE2/britcomsforev-20
===============
I have no clue...? I am a woodworker BUT I also rebuilt/restore Old
Cars or whatever you want to call it as another hobby...and I have a
lot of uses for impact wrenches..
Just can not figure out WHERE I would need a cordless one...
Bob Griffiths
On Thu, 03 Mar 2005 11:25:03 +0800, the inscrutable OldNick
<[email protected]> spake:
>On Wed, 02 Mar 2005 16:58:17 -0800, Larry Jaques
><novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> vaguely proposed a theory
>......and in reply I say!:
>
> remove ns from my header address to reply via email
>
>
>>What are you running that consumes 20 CFM?!? Most shop compressors
>>are sub 10 CFM up here.
>
>A 400 lb-ft rattle gun. An Air blower which is actually a cheap sand
>blaster with no input tube. It really boosts the airflow. A cheapo ROS
>that I now don't bother with.
OK, if you're using a 30cfm compressor and related tools, you will
need a larger line, hose, and nipples. The rest of the world doesn't.
Your tools are the very few exceptions.
Want a fast air gun? Put a couple a male and female coupler together.
When you plug it into the hose, hold on! The painter I used to work
with used one of those to clean/dry cars before spraying.
>I thought I was talking in CFM. That orifice will pass that flow, but
>will cause a pressure drop. But the orifices are not the problem.
>maybe we are talking at cross purposes here. I said my line was too
>small and you asked if I was using 1/4" nipples. I assumed you thought
>the nipples were making the larger line a waste of time. My point was
>that if the larger line is added to the small nipples the gain from
>the line is significant.
I suppose the actual airflow is the difference. Most tools on the
market use far less than 10cfm so the size of the hose and nipple
is moot.
>But all of them will cause pressure loss, as I described. 100' of 1/4"
>line would _waste_ 16 cfm. There would be a trickle at the other end,
>according to me.
My point was that most everyday tools would never see that since they
don't use anywhere near that much airflow.
--
Remember: Every silver lining has a cloud.
----
http://diversify.com Comprehensive Website Development
"Norman D. Crow" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> Same principal. The rapid "hammering" action does the work of tightening
or
> loosening the fastener without transferring the torque to your wrist.
Yabbut, we're all *Real* men with wrists the thickness of tree trunks. No
one will admit to needing the hammering capability of an impact wrench or
drill. A cordless impact wrench won't get us any women and those us with
wives already know that we might get lucky again if she sees us struggling
with 4" deck bolts. So, be a man, don't buy any impact equipment and get the
woman of your dreams. :)
.
.
.
.... upscale whose wrists are so sore that he's having trouble picking up
the phone to make an appointment to see the physiotherapist.
On Wed, 23 Feb 2005 17:14:40 -0600, Rex B <[email protected]> wrote:
>Woodcrafter wrote:
>> <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>
>>>This baby is half price at Amazon and one hell of a good purchase!
>>>
>>>http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B0001LQLE2/britcomsforev-20
>>>
>>
>>
>> Its a blatant bid for affiliate income it seems.
>
>Hardly looks deserving of an exclamation point.
>I'm waiting for one in the $150 range. Surely it can't cost that much
>more to make than a good drill-driver.
>They sure are handy though.
I had a Makita electric impact wrench and it was fantastic, until the
batteries went south, at which time i found out it cost more to
replace the batteries and charger than to buy another tool !
I tossed it in the trashcan, reluctantly, and now use the Coleman
Powermate Professional 1/2" impact wrench, model P024-0099SP
Up to 400 ft/lbs of torque at 90 psi, and has a built in air regulator
for 4 torque settings
400
320
300
230 ft/lbs
3 horsepower minimum air compressor recommended. Well I just happen
to have a 2 cylinder 3 Hp air compressor in my basement feeding a line
that goes outside to my driveway/garage.
The only drawback:
If you live in an apartment and don't have room for an air compressor,
go with the portable electric.
Otherwise, my experience with electric impact wrenches varies from
piss poor performance ( black & decker No 7945 )
to excellent ( Makita )
Lg
On Wed, 02 Mar 2005 08:21:12 +0800, the inscrutable OldNick
<[email protected]> spake:
>On Tue, 01 Mar 2005 07:20:17 -0800, Larry Jaques
><novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> vaguely proposed a theory
>......and in reply I say!:
>
> remove ns from my header address to reply via email
>
>
>>But aren't you using 1/4" nipples to feed it, as we do up here on the
>>top side of the world?
>
>We are talking air units here?...oh sorry.
>
>Yes. I am. But the trouble caused by
>5 metres of 3/8" air hose
>over
>5 metres of 1/2" air hose
>is far more than the trouble caused by a very short restriction at the
>ends.
>
>Cordin to me and my little calculators
>
>at 100 PSI in and 20 CFM
>1/4" diameter hole 1" long = .6 PSI drop
>3/8" diam hose 15' long = 10 PSI drop
>1/2" diam hose 15' long = 2 PSI drop
>
>So IIAC, we have 3.2 PSI vs 11.2 PSI drop over the two lines.
What are you running that consumes 20 CFM?!? Most shop compressors
are sub 10 CFM up here.
I've never seen it put like that, Nick. We usually talk in cfm.
And a 1/4" orifice is large enough to pass 48.7 cfm at 40psi and
108 cfm at 100 psi.
Air discharge through 100' of hose is 16 cfm at 90psi for 1/4" and
76 cfm at 90psi for 1/2". So, 1/4" hose and nipples are sufficient
for full flow of most tools at nominal psi. 1/2" is a waste of money
while 3/8" is the common hose size around here at $10-25 for a 50'
length. All these from charts in Lee Valley's Handyman In Your Pocket
reference book.
I do see the need for rubber hose now that I have some of the HF
poly hoses. Egad, these things don't like to roll or unroll at ALL!
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