On Wed, 15 Oct 2003 13:42:38 GMT, "js"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>usually, when you have a milky or white finish, it is moisture in the
>lines. You did bleed the line before you sprayed right?
The air is dry. The finish had just a few spots where the
finish was slightly hazed. It sprayed another coat on top at
78% relative humidity and the haze is completely gone now.
Chris
>> >
>> > First of all, thank you all for the reply's. I appreciate
>> > the help.
>> >
>> > The hazing is in three spots which I would call about 1/2 in
>> > wide by 4 in long..
>> > They are in corner areas where it is conceivable that the
>> > lacquer went on thicker than normal.
>> >
>> > I cannot spray again until tomorrow (monday) so I will have
>> > to wait. The piece has been sitting for 7 hours now but I am
>> > not sure whether the haze is disappearing. There is still
>> > visible haze and I will keep and eye on it.
>> >
>> > This is not the first coat over the wood however. It has
>> > received possibly 5 previous coats before this, some from
>> > months ago. I stopped spraying because august - september
>> > was just too hot here.
>> >
>> > It would seem to me that the moisture will not effect the
>> > wood because of the previous coatings.
>> >
>> > If the haze is not gone by monday then is spraying another
>> > wet coat over top the best way to deal with this? I could
>> > always wet sand it out. I have to wet sand it anyway.
>> > I am not sure what I would do if I spray another coat on top
>> > and the haze is still there.
>> >
>> > Chris
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > >"Alan Bierbaum" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> > >news:[email protected]...
>> > >> The longer that you wait, the more "cured" the lacquer will be (more
>> > >> difficult to release the moisture). Use straight thinner; the
>sooner,
>> the
>> > >> better.
>> > >>
>> > >> --
>> > >
>> > To e-mail me, remove all of the sevens from my address.
>> >
>> > Chris
>>
>>
>
To e-mail me, remove all of the sevens from my address.
Chris
Yes.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> I just sprayed @ 82% relative humidity, 65 deg F. Would this
> be the cause?
>
> Chris
>
> To e-mail me, remove all of the sevens from my address.
>
> Chris
Read this entire thread and wonder why no mention of retarder. In high
humidity if you mix a retarder in with your finish it slows the drying time
and allows the moisture to excape the finish. Moisture is not at home there
it is just trapped because the finnish skins over before it can escape and
the skin creates a barrier. Don't try to spray retarder straight unless you
can lay the sprayed side flat. It will cut the finish and allow the
moisture to escape but will also allow the finish to flow downhill. I used
to have a very open shop and alot of problems with blushing.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sun, 12 Oct 2003 20:10:46 -0700, "George M. Kazaka"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>
>
> First of all, thank you all for the reply's. I appreciate
> the help.
>
> The hazing is in three spots which I would call about 1/2 in
> wide by 4 in long..
> They are in corner areas where it is conceivable that the
> lacquer went on thicker than normal.
>
> I cannot spray again until tomorrow (monday) so I will have
> to wait. The piece has been sitting for 7 hours now but I am
> not sure whether the haze is disappearing. There is still
> visible haze and I will keep and eye on it.
>
> This is not the first coat over the wood however. It has
> received possibly 5 previous coats before this, some from
> months ago. I stopped spraying because august - september
> was just too hot here.
>
> It would seem to me that the moisture will not effect the
> wood because of the previous coatings.
>
> If the haze is not gone by monday then is spraying another
> wet coat over top the best way to deal with this? I could
> always wet sand it out. I have to wet sand it anyway.
> I am not sure what I would do if I spray another coat on top
> and the haze is still there.
>
> Chris
>
>
>
>
>
>
> >"Alan Bierbaum" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >news:[email protected]...
> >> The longer that you wait, the more "cured" the lacquer will be (more
> >> difficult to release the moisture). Use straight thinner; the sooner,
the
> >> better.
> >>
> >> --
> >
> To e-mail me, remove all of the sevens from my address.
>
> Chris
If It doesn't go away after a fair amount of drying time, say overnight,
Just spray it again with a 50/50 mixture make sure you do not lay it on to
heavy but be sure that it looks wet when you do.
Good Luck, Georeg
"Tom Watson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sun, 12 Oct 2003 23:20:34 GMT, [email protected] wrote:
>
> >
> >I just sprayed @ 82% relative humidity, 65 deg F. Would this
> >be the cause?
> >
> >Chris
> >
> >To e-mail me, remove all of the sevens from my address.
> >
> >Chris
>
> Yes, particularly if you laid on a heavy coat.
>
> You can wait and see if the moisture that is trapped in the finish
> will release over time.
>
> Or, you could load the gun with pure lacquer thinner and spray on a
> light coat.
>
> It's a judgement call but in most cases, if the hazing is heavy enough
> to obscure the figure of the wood, I would spray with the thinner.
>
> Lightly.
>
>
>
>
>
> Regards, Tom
> Thomas J. Watson-Cabinetmaker
> Gulph Mills, Pennsylvania
> http://users.snip.net/~tjwatson
More than likely if you wait overnight the moisture will come out by itself,
I have found it rare that it didn't come out in a few hours, a real bad case
would be gone overnight, and actually I would usually just shoot it again
without thinning, My 50/50 suggestion was just a cautionary recomendation
for a novice.
I sprayed lacquer for 28 years in just that type of climate with at times
more humidity than 82%
You may find that only a small area may have the haze, it takes Nitro
Lacquer at least two week too "CURE"
Sometimes more in a high humidaty area.
I know it costs a lot more but try to get some Acrylic lacquer, or Butrate
lacquer they are much better and gives you a harder surface and whole lot
leass of problems or color changes.
If you spray straight thinner you have to lay on enough to soften up what
you already put on and this is going to cause it to have a strong
possibility to run.
Let us know what you do and how it turns out,
Good Luck,
George
"Alan Bierbaum" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> The longer that you wait, the more "cured" the lacquer will be (more
> difficult to release the moisture). Use straight thinner; the sooner, the
> better.
>
> --
> Alan Bierbaum
>
> Web Site: http://www.calanb.com
> Recent Project Page: http://www.calanb.com/recent.html
> Workbench project: http://www.calanb.com/wbench.html
>
>
> "Tom Watson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > On Sun, 12 Oct 2003 16:39:31 -0700, "George M. Kazaka"
> > <[email protected]> wrote:
> >
> > >If It doesn't go away after a fair amount of drying time, say
overnight,
> > >Just spray it again with a 50/50 mixture make sure you do not lay it on
> to
> > >heavy but be sure that it looks wet when you do.
> > >
> > >Good Luck, Georeg
> >
> >
> > I wouldn't wait so long. And I wouldn't use a fifty-fifty cut of
> > lacquer/thinner to do the job.
> >
> > If you wait, you run the risk of the included moisture raising the
> > grain of the wood.
> >
> > I see no benefit to using a fifty-fifty cut in preference to a
> > spraying of straight thinner.
> >
> >
> > Regards, Tom
> > Thomas J. Watson-Cabinetmaker
> > Gulph Mills, Pennsylvania
> > http://users.snip.net/~tjwatson
>
>
The longer that you wait, the more "cured" the lacquer will be (more
difficult to release the moisture). Use straight thinner; the sooner, the
better.
--
Alan Bierbaum
Web Site: http://www.calanb.com
Recent Project Page: http://www.calanb.com/recent.html
Workbench project: http://www.calanb.com/wbench.html
"Tom Watson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sun, 12 Oct 2003 16:39:31 -0700, "George M. Kazaka"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >If It doesn't go away after a fair amount of drying time, say overnight,
> >Just spray it again with a 50/50 mixture make sure you do not lay it on
to
> >heavy but be sure that it looks wet when you do.
> >
> >Good Luck, Georeg
>
>
> I wouldn't wait so long. And I wouldn't use a fifty-fifty cut of
> lacquer/thinner to do the job.
>
> If you wait, you run the risk of the included moisture raising the
> grain of the wood.
>
> I see no benefit to using a fifty-fifty cut in preference to a
> spraying of straight thinner.
>
>
> Regards, Tom
> Thomas J. Watson-Cabinetmaker
> Gulph Mills, Pennsylvania
> http://users.snip.net/~tjwatson
On Sun, 12 Oct 2003 23:20:34 GMT, [email protected] wrote:
>
>I just sprayed @ 82% relative humidity, 65 deg F. Would this
>be the cause?
>
>Chris
>
>To e-mail me, remove all of the sevens from my address.
>
>Chris
Yes, particularly if you laid on a heavy coat.
You can wait and see if the moisture that is trapped in the finish
will release over time.
Or, you could load the gun with pure lacquer thinner and spray on a
light coat.
It's a judgement call but in most cases, if the hazing is heavy enough
to obscure the figure of the wood, I would spray with the thinner.
Lightly.
Regards, Tom
Thomas J. Watson-Cabinetmaker
Gulph Mills, Pennsylvania
http://users.snip.net/~tjwatson
On Sun, 12 Oct 2003 20:10:46 -0700, "George M. Kazaka"
<[email protected]> wrote:
First of all, thank you all for the reply's. I appreciate
the help.
The hazing is in three spots which I would call about 1/2 in
wide by 4 in long..
They are in corner areas where it is conceivable that the
lacquer went on thicker than normal.
I cannot spray again until tomorrow (monday) so I will have
to wait. The piece has been sitting for 7 hours now but I am
not sure whether the haze is disappearing. There is still
visible haze and I will keep and eye on it.
This is not the first coat over the wood however. It has
received possibly 5 previous coats before this, some from
months ago. I stopped spraying because august - september
was just too hot here.
It would seem to me that the moisture will not effect the
wood because of the previous coatings.
If the haze is not gone by monday then is spraying another
wet coat over top the best way to deal with this? I could
always wet sand it out. I have to wet sand it anyway.
I am not sure what I would do if I spray another coat on top
and the haze is still there.
Chris
>"Alan Bierbaum" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> The longer that you wait, the more "cured" the lacquer will be (more
>> difficult to release the moisture). Use straight thinner; the sooner, the
>> better.
>>
>> --
>
To e-mail me, remove all of the sevens from my address.
Chris
On Sun, 12 Oct 2003 16:39:31 -0700, "George M. Kazaka"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>If It doesn't go away after a fair amount of drying time, say overnight,
>Just spray it again with a 50/50 mixture make sure you do not lay it on to
>heavy but be sure that it looks wet when you do.
>
>Good Luck, Georeg
I wouldn't wait so long. And I wouldn't use a fifty-fifty cut of
lacquer/thinner to do the job.
If you wait, you run the risk of the included moisture raising the
grain of the wood.
I see no benefit to using a fifty-fifty cut in preference to a
spraying of straight thinner.
Regards, Tom
Thomas J. Watson-Cabinetmaker
Gulph Mills, Pennsylvania
http://users.snip.net/~tjwatson
usually, when you have a milky or white finish, it is moisture in the
lines. You did bleed the line before you sprayed right?
"BurlaT3" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:8Jbjb.774818$YN5.758785@sccrnsc01...
> Read this entire thread and wonder why no mention of retarder. In high
> humidity if you mix a retarder in with your finish it slows the drying
time
> and allows the moisture to excape the finish. Moisture is not at home
there
> it is just trapped because the finnish skins over before it can escape and
> the skin creates a barrier. Don't try to spray retarder straight unless
you
> can lay the sprayed side flat. It will cut the finish and allow the
> moisture to escape but will also allow the finish to flow downhill. I
used
> to have a very open shop and alot of problems with blushing.
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > On Sun, 12 Oct 2003 20:10:46 -0700, "George M. Kazaka"
> > <[email protected]> wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > First of all, thank you all for the reply's. I appreciate
> > the help.
> >
> > The hazing is in three spots which I would call about 1/2 in
> > wide by 4 in long..
> > They are in corner areas where it is conceivable that the
> > lacquer went on thicker than normal.
> >
> > I cannot spray again until tomorrow (monday) so I will have
> > to wait. The piece has been sitting for 7 hours now but I am
> > not sure whether the haze is disappearing. There is still
> > visible haze and I will keep and eye on it.
> >
> > This is not the first coat over the wood however. It has
> > received possibly 5 previous coats before this, some from
> > months ago. I stopped spraying because august - september
> > was just too hot here.
> >
> > It would seem to me that the moisture will not effect the
> > wood because of the previous coatings.
> >
> > If the haze is not gone by monday then is spraying another
> > wet coat over top the best way to deal with this? I could
> > always wet sand it out. I have to wet sand it anyway.
> > I am not sure what I would do if I spray another coat on top
> > and the haze is still there.
> >
> > Chris
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > >"Alan Bierbaum" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > >news:[email protected]...
> > >> The longer that you wait, the more "cured" the lacquer will be (more
> > >> difficult to release the moisture). Use straight thinner; the
sooner,
> the
> > >> better.
> > >>
> > >> --
> > >
> > To e-mail me, remove all of the sevens from my address.
> >
> > Chris
>
>