<[email protected]> wrote in message
> I'm not too pleased with securing the frame to the cabinet with nails
> from the face. I can't make the nail holes match. Any help
> appreciated.
There are other methods you can try, but I've had great success with nails
and Lee Valley Tools blind nailer. It's a very small chisel/plan combination
that raises a shaving, you bang in your nail and then glue the shaving back
down. Virtually invisible. To facilitate the driving in of the nail, I drill
a slightly undersized hole with a drill, bang in the nail and then
countersink it. LV recommends fish glue for fastening down the shaving, I
use simple white carpenter's glue. Then I either apply finger pressure for
four or five minutes until the glue dries enough or I use a face frame
clamp.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp?SID=&ccurrency=1&page=32683&category=1,41182
"Upscale" wrote in message
>
> There are other methods you can try, but I've had great success with nails
Nails! <gasp> .. . careful, you'll grow hair on your knuckles if you do
that.
I've often wondered why wooddorkers buy so many finish nail guns since they
profess not to use them. Good to see someone else fess up to actually using
nails.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 11/06/04
<[email protected]> wrote in message
> I'm not too pleased with securing the frame to the cabinet with nails
> from the face. I can't make the nail holes match. Any help
> appreciated.
There is no "best" method for all cabinets. My personal favorite for kitchen
cabinets is making the FF first, grooved to accept the cabinet edges, then
glue and an occasional finish nail if necessary, or just clamps if nail
holes are going to be a problem.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 11/06/04
On Wed, 17 Nov 2004 13:37:14 GMT, [email protected] (Doug Miller)
wrote:
>In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] wrote:
>>I'm not too pleased with securing the frame to the cabinet with nails
>>from the face. I can't make the nail holes match. Any help
>>appreciated.
>
>Glue and clamps works for me. Tested on a mockup: heavy spread of Titebond II,
>clamped for two hours, allowed to cure overnight, and bashed it with a hammer.
>The wood failed, not the glue joint.
>
>Only downside I can see is that it takes a *lot* of clamps -- about every 4
>inches around the face frame adds up in a hurry. Best to use blocks of scrap
>between the clamp pads and the face frame, too, so you don't get dents in the
>face frame. DAMHIKT.
if you make up a set of cauls you can reduce the number of clamps.
take some straight grained dry hardwood, whatever you have on hand.
rip it to a little over what you want for a finished thickness. the
thickness will depend on how springy the wood is and how long the caul
will be. here's a good way to guage it: first, just guess. if it's say
a white oak caul, 3 feet long and 2 inches wide start with 3 inches
thick. take a couple of 3 inch thick scraps and set them on the bench
3 feet apart and span them with the caul-to-be with the 3 inch
dimension vertical and near the edge of the bench. now take one of the
clamps you're going to be using it with and clamp it down in the
center of span. you can easily judge the springiness from here. if
it's too soft, cut the caul down lengthwise. if it's too hard rip it
narrower, but remember to stay a bit to the hard side at this point to
account for the material you'll remove when giving it camber. once you
have the length and thickness set so that the applied force is what
you want to deliver with your clamps, and while it's still clamped up
to the edge of the bench measure the distance that it has deflected-
that is, subtract the distance from the bottom of your caul at the
center where the clamp is to the bench top from the thickness of the
scraps it's spanning. that dimension will be the amount of camber. now
unclamp it and lay out the camber. you'll want a fair curve that takes
out zero at the center and the camber amount out at each end. how you
cut that line will be up to you and what tools you have. I generally
do them on the jointer. get the curve nice and smooth- lumps will tend
to telegraph out to your work. I put a small chamfer on the edges,
sand them smooth and wax them for glue release, but I suppose you
could pad the faces with leather or something if you wanted.
in use what you want the caul to do is apply just the right amount of
force for assembly, evenly across it's length, at the point where the
bending forces of the clamps have it straight. once you have the belly
sanded and waxed you can tune the springiness by shaving from the
back- which can be part of the dry run of the assembly.
for all of the words I used to describe this, it only takes a few
minutes to do- probably less time than I spent typing.
On 16 Nov 2004 10:23:38 -0800, [email protected] (Bill Wallace) wrote:
>Biscuits. You'll find the size 0 (I think) are often called/labeled
>Face Frame biscuits.
Size 0 biscuits are larger than Face Frame (FF) biscuits.
Large to small = 20-10-0-FF
Not all machines can cut FF slots, only those with a second, smaller
blade.
Barry
Biscuits. You'll find the size 0 (I think) are often called/labeled
Face Frame biscuits.
[email protected] wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> I'm not too pleased with securing the frame to the cabinet with nails
> from the face. I can't make the nail holes match. Any help
> appreciated.
> Mike
I stand corrected. At least I said "I think". Now I remember, I always
grab the "other" biscuit cutter when I use these dogs.
BW
Ba r r y <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> On 16 Nov 2004 10:23:38 -0800, [email protected] (Bill Wallace) wrote:
>
> >Biscuits. You'll find the size 0 (I think) are often called/labeled
> >Face Frame biscuits.
>
> Size 0 biscuits are larger than Face Frame (FF) biscuits.
>
> Large to small = 20-10-0-FF
>
> Not all machines can cut FF slots, only those with a second, smaller
> blade.
>
> Barry
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] wrote:
>I'm not too pleased with securing the frame to the cabinet with nails
>from the face. I can't make the nail holes match. Any help
>appreciated.
Glue and clamps works for me. Tested on a mockup: heavy spread of Titebond II,
clamped for two hours, allowed to cure overnight, and bashed it with a hammer.
The wood failed, not the glue joint.
Only downside I can see is that it takes a *lot* of clamps -- about every 4
inches around the face frame adds up in a hurry. Best to use blocks of scrap
between the clamp pads and the face frame, too, so you don't get dents in the
face frame. DAMHIKT.
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
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On Tue, 16 Nov 2004 01:51:19 GMT, [email protected] wrote:
>I'm not too pleased with securing the frame to the cabinet with nails
>from the face. I can't make the nail holes match. Any help
>appreciated.
>Mike
I use a variety of methods.
in locations where you have a blind side to work from, pocket screws
are fast and convenient. this includes the bottoms of lower cabinets
and the tops of uppers as well as some concealed dividers and the
stringers for attaching counters.
for high visibility connections, biscuits work well.
neither method is as fast as nails from the nailgun, but both are
faster than nails PLUS the time spent trying unsucessfully to match
the filler to the grain...