Many thanks for all the suggestions. Let me tackle them in order.
1. Bit following the grain: I don't think so -- it does the same thing
in plywood.
2. Check the auger diameter: It's dead-on the chisel diameter for all
bits.
3. It shouldn't happen: I agree.
4. You'll have the same problem with all mortisers: I hope not.
5. Half-moons are normal: see 4. above.
6. Scary-sharpening might have thinned the chisel: I doubt it -- I
began with 15u paper, and some of the old score marks left from
manufacture are still there. Could be, tho.s
7. Sharpen chisels at the inside only: See 6. above. I have the Lee
Valley sharpening cone set but haven't used it yet.
8. Auger may be set too low: I was using the 1/6" gap suggested by
Delta. I tried the nickel/dime approach but it didn't seem to help.
9. Try reseating the auger at a different angle: This does make a
difference. I'm beginning to think the axis of the chisel is not
parallel to the auger. It's hard to see if the augers are not quite
straight because their tips are just blunt pyramids.
10. Make sure augers are not set too low: I think this is an important
point. Nickel, dime spacing is OK, but what really matters is how far
the auger protrudes from the chisel and whether its shoulder is nearly
resting on the corresponding shoulder on the chisel. Not touching, not
squealing, but almost.
I'm going to complain to Delta, and at the same time buy one
better-quality bit to see if that helps.
Any suggestions at to which brand is best?
--
Vince Heuring ECE Department, University of Colorado - Boulder
To email, remove the Vince.
Thanks to all for the advice, much of which I took, except that which
was contradictory. :-) I cut a bunch of mortises in quartersawn oak
yesterday and today: http://www.heuring.org/mortises.jpg
All in all I'm pleased with the results. Lessons learned so far:
1. The position of the auger relative to the chisel is important. The
squealing may be due to the shoulder of the auger rubbing on the
chisel. A *tiny* bit of squeal may not be bad, it indicates that the
two are aligned. An auger that's too low can wobble, one that's too
high will quickly burn up the auger and the chisel.
2. It helps clean up the mortise to go up and down with the bit several
times after the initial cut before withdrawing the bit.
3. Make the mortise 1/4" deeper than the tenon if possible, that way
you won't have to clean out the corners.
Thanks again to all.
--
Vince Heuring To email, remove the Vince.
Vince Heuring <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<211020031256295476%[email protected]>...
> Many thanks for all the suggestions. Let me tackle them in order.
>
> 1. Bit following the grain: I don't think so -- it does the same thing
> in plywood.
>
> 2. Check the auger diameter: It's dead-on the chisel diameter for all
> bits.
>
> 3. It shouldn't happen: I agree.
>
> 4. You'll have the same problem with all mortisers: I hope not.
>
> 5. Half-moons are normal: see 4. above.
>
> 6. Scary-sharpening might have thinned the chisel: I doubt it -- I
> began with 15u paper, and some of the old score marks left from
> manufacture are still there. Could be, tho.s
>
> 7. Sharpen chisels at the inside only: See 6. above. I have the Lee
> Valley sharpening cone set but haven't used it yet.
>
> 8. Auger may be set too low: I was using the 1/6" gap suggested by
> Delta. I tried the nickel/dime approach but it didn't seem to help.
>
> 9. Try reseating the auger at a different angle: This does make a
> difference. I'm beginning to think the axis of the chisel is not
> parallel to the auger. It's hard to see if the augers are not quite
> straight because their tips are just blunt pyramids.
>
> 10. Make sure augers are not set too low: I think this is an important
> point. Nickel, dime spacing is OK, but what really matters is how far
> the auger protrudes from the chisel and whether its shoulder is nearly
> resting on the corresponding shoulder on the chisel. Not touching, not
> squealing, but almost.
>
> I'm going to complain to Delta, and at the same time buy one
> better-quality bit to see if that helps.
>
> Any suggestions at to which brand is best?
Dear Vince:
We have 6 Delta units here at the school and have used them reqularly
in many classes, mostly cutting white oak. You will find that the
nature of the units do not cut a perfect hole and must be cleaned up
with a chisel, just part of woodworking. I have found that if one
hones the chisels, that will help greatly. Check your technique and
good luck from Mike at American Sycamore.
If you still are having serious problems I would be glad to help and
you will find Delta to be most helpful as well.
In article <261020031628553085%[email protected]>, [email protected] wrote:
>3. Make the mortise 1/4" deeper than the tenon if possible, that way
>you won't have to clean out the corners.
>
Does this have any effect on the strength of the joint?
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
>I'm going to complain to Delta, and at the same time buy one
better-quality bit to see if that helps.
Delta sells bits that are made in Austria, they are quite good.
Suggestion, clean out your holes with a chisel and add some glue and go...
--
Rumpty
Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
"Vince Heuring" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:211020031256295476%[email protected]...
:
: Many thanks for all the suggestions. Let me tackle them in order.
:
: 1. Bit following the grain: I don't think so -- it does the same thing
: in plywood.
:
: 2. Check the auger diameter: It's dead-on the chisel diameter for all
: bits.
:
: 3. It shouldn't happen: I agree.
:
: 4. You'll have the same problem with all mortisers: I hope not.
:
: 5. Half-moons are normal: see 4. above.
:
: 6. Scary-sharpening might have thinned the chisel: I doubt it -- I
: began with 15u paper, and some of the old score marks left from
: manufacture are still there. Could be, tho.s
:
: 7. Sharpen chisels at the inside only: See 6. above. I have the Lee
: Valley sharpening cone set but haven't used it yet.
:
: 8. Auger may be set too low: I was using the 1/6" gap suggested by
: Delta. I tried the nickel/dime approach but it didn't seem to help.
:
: 9. Try reseating the auger at a different angle: This does make a
: difference. I'm beginning to think the axis of the chisel is not
: parallel to the auger. It's hard to see if the augers are not quite
: straight because their tips are just blunt pyramids.
:
: 10. Make sure augers are not set too low: I think this is an important
: point. Nickel, dime spacing is OK, but what really matters is how far
: the auger protrudes from the chisel and whether its shoulder is nearly
: resting on the corresponding shoulder on the chisel. Not touching, not
: squealing, but almost.
:
: I'm going to complain to Delta, and at the same time buy one
: better-quality bit to see if that helps.
:
: Any suggestions at to which brand is best?
:
: --
: Vince Heuring ECE Department, University of Colorado - Boulder
: To email, remove the Vince.
I missed the other thread, but is the chisel square to the table in both planes ?
>Let me tackle them in order.
>
> 1. Bit following the grain: I don't think so -- it does the same thing
> in plywood.
The it's either a poor design Hong Kong Fooey Mortiser, poor quality bit or
your technique.
> 5. Half-moons are normal: see 4. above.
I cut about 100 mortises yesterday afternoon. Since these were to be visible
"holes" I concentrated on my technique. I use a Multico Mortiser which has
substantial ways and no side to side slop, and a 5/16" Delta Austrian Bit.
The 5/16" bit being so small in dia has a bit of flex in the drill so half
moons can easily happen. I found the half moons were minimized if you
slowly lower the bit into the wood and let the point of the drill grab the
wood then continue pushing slowly until the chisel engages the wood. If you
are hand holding the work against the fence hold tighter and you might
consider a taller fence if necessary. Technique will minimize the half
moons.
>
> 6. Scary-sharpening might have thinned the chisel: I doubt it -- I
> began with 15u paper, and some of the old score marks left from
> manufacture are still there. Could be, tho.s
Don't waste your time scary-sharpening a mortise bit/set.
--
Rumpty
Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Besides everything being sharp and square to the workpiece, do you have the
opening in the chisel facing forward or backward? It often helps to minimize
the tendency to squeal if you have it facing sideways into the void as you
cut. That way your waste get ejected into the part of the mortise you've
already cut.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 9/21/03
"Nick Bozovich" [email protected]> wrote in message
> Vince -
> I have a Delta Mortiser also, and am getting "squealing" when I run it.
It
> seems to cut fine, but the squealing noise doesn't sound right. I'm going
> try to adjust the auger as you've indicated and see if that helps.
Vince -
I have a Delta Mortiser also, and am getting "squealing" when I run it. It
seems to cut fine, but the squealing noise doesn't sound right. I'm going
try to adjust the auger as you've indicated and see if that helps.
Otherwise, it does a great job. I find that I do need to do a very minor
amount of clean-up in the corners, and sometimes on the bottom. I've used
it mainly on BE Maple.
If you wouldn't mind, could you post Delta's response? I'd like to make
sure mine continues to work well.
Thanks for the help. Good luck -
Nick B
"Vince Heuring" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:211020031256295476%[email protected]...
>
> Many thanks for all the suggestions. Let me tackle them in order.
>
> 1. Bit following the grain: I don't think so -- it does the same thing
> in plywood.
>
> 2. Check the auger diameter: It's dead-on the chisel diameter for all
> bits.
>
> 3. It shouldn't happen: I agree.
>
> 4. You'll have the same problem with all mortisers: I hope not.
>
> 5. Half-moons are normal: see 4. above.
>
> 6. Scary-sharpening might have thinned the chisel: I doubt it -- I
> began with 15u paper, and some of the old score marks left from
> manufacture are still there. Could be, tho.s
>
> 7. Sharpen chisels at the inside only: See 6. above. I have the Lee
> Valley sharpening cone set but haven't used it yet.
>
> 8. Auger may be set too low: I was using the 1/6" gap suggested by
> Delta. I tried the nickel/dime approach but it didn't seem to help.
>
> 9. Try reseating the auger at a different angle: This does make a
> difference. I'm beginning to think the axis of the chisel is not
> parallel to the auger. It's hard to see if the augers are not quite
> straight because their tips are just blunt pyramids.
>
> 10. Make sure augers are not set too low: I think this is an important
> point. Nickel, dime spacing is OK, but what really matters is how far
> the auger protrudes from the chisel and whether its shoulder is nearly
> resting on the corresponding shoulder on the chisel. Not touching, not
> squealing, but almost.
>
> I'm going to complain to Delta, and at the same time buy one
> better-quality bit to see if that helps.
>
> Any suggestions at to which brand is best?
>
> --
> Vince Heuring ECE Department, University of Colorado - Boulder
> To email, remove the Vince.