OT: Corian and Working with it

On Sat, 22 Jan 2005 14:12:38 -0500, "GrayBeardPhil" <nospamphil@one
two three n-o-maps.net> wrote:

>Hi all:
>
>Did a search on Corian and came across a poster a few years back who claimed
>that DuPont went with authorized installers for Corian counter tops because
>the sanding dust is not healthy. Not easy for consumers to get hold of
>Corian products because of the sanding of joined seams could make the
>consumer sick.
>
>Is this just sawdust tails, or is there any specific details on Corian dust
>health hazards?
>
>Thanks
>
>Phil
>


http://www.parksite.com/productgroups/msds/msds_3_40.pdf



tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet (real email)
http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1 (webpage)

toller wrote:
> "Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > In article <[email protected]>,
> > "toller" <[email protected]> wrote:
> >
> >> > (I am an authorized fabricator by all the major players
including
> >> > DuPont. I also teach.)
> >> >
> >> Since I have found an expert, I need to ask a question...
> >> I am replacing a one hole faucet in my Corian kitchen counter with
a
> >> three
> >> hole, so I need to cut two new holes.
> >>
> >> I have been told that a new, good quality (hence sharp) hole saw
is all I
> >> need. My Harbor Freight hole saw would be a bad bet.
> >>
> >> Does this sound correct? Any other advice?
> >>
> >>
> >
> > As long as the hole saw is sharp and has staggered teeth, go ahead.
> > I use a 1 1/2' carbide saw with no better results than a regular
> > bi-metal Milwaukee.
> > Slow RPM ( you don't want heat) and a gentle rocking about the axis
to
> > keeps things loose. Keep the kerf as clean as you can. I use a
vacuum
> > and a old paint brush.
> > When you're about 3/8 down, finish the rest from the bottom... cuz
you
> > don't want slam down onto the deck with your drill, plus it reduces
> > scabs from breaking off around the hole. Soften the sharp edges
with
> > some 180grit and you're done.
> >
> > Try not to overtighten your installation.
> > Good luck!
> >
> No access from below; the Corian sink is going to made the faucet
> installation a real trip. I will just have to be careful.

If things are that tight, make sure that you don't end up with the tap
mounting nut/washer halfway on the flange of the sink.
>
> What are staggered teeth on a hole saw?
> Thanks.


The teeth are spaced with irregular spacing in between them. I think
all the major manufacturers are doing that now. It reduces chatter.
Again...good luck..and lots of patience..*S*=20

0=BF0

Rob

> (I am an authorized fabricator by all the major players including
> DuPont. I also teach.)
>
> 0=BF0
>
> Rob
>
> www.topworks.ca


A quick question, Do you know whether anyone is sucessfully turning
solid materials, e.g. on a wood or metal lath, to make knobs or
whatever.

Thanks in advance,

Ray

Tom:

Thanks for the link.

I never thought to google corian, +MSDS

Thanks again, this answered my question.

Phil

>
> http://www.parksite.com/productgroups/msds/msds_3_40.pdf
>
>
>
> tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet (real email)
> http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1 (webpage)

Robatoy:

I thank you for your insight in to the background.

I am a hobby woodworker who thinks of going for a craft show some time in
the far future.

Came across some info about using Corian kitchen sink cutout scrap on a
scroll saw. Quite good looking project. But the warnings I read on a
google search of newsgroups raised some red flags for me and my basement
shop. (read that to mean low fresh air circulation.) The technology of
cutting corian on a scroll saw is well addressed in forums dedicated to
scrollsaw work. But they had no expertise, like you, in the handling of
corian.

By the Way: try a google on corian art. There are web sites that show of
mind blowing art turning, scroll saw, and even sandblasting small pieces.

http://www.willowglen.com/blast6.htm for example.

Thanks again.

Phil




"Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article <[email protected]>,
> "GrayBeardPhil" <nospamphil@one two three n-o-maps.net> wrote:
>
>> Hi all:
>>
>> Did a search on Corian and came across a poster a few years back who
>> claimed
>> that DuPont went with authorized installers for Corian counter tops
>> because
>> the sanding dust is not healthy. Not easy for consumers to get hold of
>> Corian products because of the sanding of joined seams could make the
>> consumer sick.
>>
>> Is this just sawdust tails, or is there any specific details on Corian
>> dust
>> health hazards?
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Phil
>>
>>
>
> Phil!..take a chair...*G*
>
> The restricted sales of Corian products to 'Authorized fabricators and
> installers' have absolutely nothing to do with health hazards.
> It has everything to do with marketing exclusive areas to those
> fabricators which are willing to submit themselves to DuPont's demands.
> Read: Politics.
>
> Most of their marketing policies are a hang-over from the days when they
> were the only game in town. I started with them when all they had was 4
> colours. They have a strong brand recognition, to the point that a lot
> of people will refer to all solid surface products as Corian. Like
> Kleenex, and Cellotape. The name has become generic.
>
> There is one argument which I will support, and that is that fabricators
> must be well trained due to warranty issues. That holds tru for all
> solid surface products. Improper fabrication can be a problem, such as
> running seams over a dishwasher or through cook-top cut-outs etc, etc.
>
> I had the dept. of labour in the province of Ontario hang dust monitors
> all through my shop, in order to discover which level of dust masks and
> controls I had to install in order to protect my workers, and myself.
> The results were surprising. The dust from acrylic solid surface
> countertops was labelled 'nuisance dust' FAR less harmful than many
> species of wood dust. In fact, totally inert. Non toxic. Capped teeth
> are often made from exactly the same material.
>
> The fumes from the adhesives are heavily laced with aromatics, in order
> to prevent senseless breathing of the fumes, but a very basic paint mask
> will control those fumes. Once the adhesive is set, harmless nuisance
> dust again. I do see the restriction as an 'Industrial Use Only' making
> some sense, as the hardener, in its raw state is very nasty.
> But, having said that, so is any of the crap you can buy off the shelf
> at any Borg. You eat a tube of 5-minute Epoxy and you won't feel well
> shortly thereafter.
>
> In terms of working with it?
>
> There are two classifications of solid surface material. Acrylic and
> polyester. (And a few 'alloys')
>
> Polyester can be very beautiful (Avonite Studio Collection comes to
> mind) Others can be very badly manufactured. There are a lot of
> 'Fly-By-Night' operations that basically pour a chemical soup (like
> Bondo Automotive filler) with some coloured aquarium gravel and cheap
> dyes into a pan and call it solid surface. Some of those formulations
> never really cure and 'off-gas' for months after installation and
> sometimes they off-gas every time sunlight hits them causing many of
> them to discolour over time... whites turn yellow. The stuff is brittle,
> it cracks easily and cannot be thermoformed.
> Avonite Studio and Formica Alloys are the exceptions because those guys
> have done their homework and cure their products properly over
> controlled temperatures and time.
>
> Acrylics are more difficult to manufacture and are not likely to be done
> by questionable operators. The mineral -filled (AHA) acrylics are
> slightly softer, hence more flexible, less prone to cracking. The
> players are usually 'big guns', like Wilsonart, Samsung Staron, DuPont
> Corian, Meganite, Dovae, Aristech. Avonite (also has a polyester line
> because some intense colours cannot be made with acrylics. Check out
> their incredible Studio Collection. At $1000.00 per sheet, it better be
> pretty, huh? I fabricate a fair bit of Goldmine, K3-8495)
>
> When starting out, I suggest you stick to acrylics. The adhesive
> (cohesion) technology is superior to polyester (adhesion).
> Most quality router bits and saw blades can handle the acrylics.The
> polyesters are more abrasive. (Stuff stinks too..like body shop)
> A lot of the polyesters don't have the fire-rating most codes require.
>
> http://www.issfa.net/
> http://pinske-edge.com/
> http://www.monumenttoolworks.com/pages/parallign.htm
>
> issfa offers a course, after which you are pretty much required to buy
> certain equipement if you want any distributor to see that you can
> deliver the standards they have set for themselves. Dust-free sanding in
> the customer's home is about nuisance, not health...although it is
> common sense to keep even the most harmless dust out of your pipes.
>
> (I am an authorized fabricator by all the major players including
> DuPont. I also teach.)
>
> 0¿0
>
> Rob
>
> www.topworks.ca

> (I am an authorized fabricator by all the major players including
> DuPont. I also teach.)
>
Since I have found an expert, I need to ask a question...
I am replacing a one hole faucet in my Corian kitchen counter with a three
hole, so I need to cut two new holes.

I have been told that a new, good quality (hence sharp) hole saw is all I
need. My Harbor Freight hole saw would be a bad bet.

Does this sound correct? Any other advice?

"Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article <[email protected]>,
> "toller" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> > (I am an authorized fabricator by all the major players including
>> > DuPont. I also teach.)
>> >
>> Since I have found an expert, I need to ask a question...
>> I am replacing a one hole faucet in my Corian kitchen counter with a
>> three
>> hole, so I need to cut two new holes.
>>
>> I have been told that a new, good quality (hence sharp) hole saw is all I
>> need. My Harbor Freight hole saw would be a bad bet.
>>
>> Does this sound correct? Any other advice?
>>
>>
>
> As long as the hole saw is sharp and has staggered teeth, go ahead.
> I use a 1 1/2' carbide saw with no better results than a regular
> bi-metal Milwaukee.
> Slow RPM ( you don't want heat) and a gentle rocking about the axis to
> keeps things loose. Keep the kerf as clean as you can. I use a vacuum
> and a old paint brush.
> When you're about 3/8 down, finish the rest from the bottom... cuz you
> don't want slam down onto the deck with your drill, plus it reduces
> scabs from breaking off around the hole. Soften the sharp edges with
> some 180grit and you're done.
>
> Try not to overtighten your installation.
> Good luck!
>
No access from below; the Corian sink is going to made the faucet
installation a real trip. I will just have to be careful.

What are staggered teeth on a hole saw?
Thanks.

In article <[email protected]>,
"toller" <[email protected]> wrote:

> > (I am an authorized fabricator by all the major players including
> > DuPont. I also teach.)
> >
> Since I have found an expert, I need to ask a question...
> I am replacing a one hole faucet in my Corian kitchen counter with a three
> hole, so I need to cut two new holes.
>
> I have been told that a new, good quality (hence sharp) hole saw is all I
> need. My Harbor Freight hole saw would be a bad bet.
>
> Does this sound correct? Any other advice?
>
>

As long as the hole saw is sharp and has staggered teeth, go ahead.
I use a 1 1/2' carbide saw with no better results than a regular
bi-metal Milwaukee.
Slow RPM ( you don't want heat) and a gentle rocking about the axis to
keeps things loose. Keep the kerf as clean as you can. I use a vacuum
and a old paint brush.
When you're about 3/8 down, finish the rest from the bottom... cuz you
don't want slam down onto the deck with your drill, plus it reduces
scabs from breaking off around the hole. Soften the sharp edges with
some 180grit and you're done.

Try not to overtighten your installation.
Good luck!

0¿0

Rob

PS.. keep an eye on the sink flange.

In article <[email protected]>,
"GrayBeardPhil" <nospamphil@one two three n-o-maps.net> wrote:

> Hi all:
>
> Did a search on Corian and came across a poster a few years back who claimed
> that DuPont went with authorized installers for Corian counter tops because
> the sanding dust is not healthy. Not easy for consumers to get hold of
> Corian products because of the sanding of joined seams could make the
> consumer sick.
>
> Is this just sawdust tails, or is there any specific details on Corian dust
> health hazards?
>
> Thanks
>
> Phil
>
>

Phil!..take a chair...*G*

The restricted sales of Corian products to 'Authorized fabricators and
installers' have absolutely nothing to do with health hazards.
It has everything to do with marketing exclusive areas to those
fabricators which are willing to submit themselves to DuPont's demands.
Read: Politics.

Most of their marketing policies are a hang-over from the days when they
were the only game in town. I started with them when all they had was 4
colours. They have a strong brand recognition, to the point that a lot
of people will refer to all solid surface products as Corian. Like
Kleenex, and Cellotape. The name has become generic.

There is one argument which I will support, and that is that fabricators
must be well trained due to warranty issues. That holds tru for all
solid surface products. Improper fabrication can be a problem, such as
running seams over a dishwasher or through cook-top cut-outs etc, etc.

I had the dept. of labour in the province of Ontario hang dust monitors
all through my shop, in order to discover which level of dust masks and
controls I had to install in order to protect my workers, and myself.
The results were surprising. The dust from acrylic solid surface
countertops was labelled 'nuisance dust' FAR less harmful than many
species of wood dust. In fact, totally inert. Non toxic. Capped teeth
are often made from exactly the same material.

The fumes from the adhesives are heavily laced with aromatics, in order
to prevent senseless breathing of the fumes, but a very basic paint mask
will control those fumes. Once the adhesive is set, harmless nuisance
dust again. I do see the restriction as an 'Industrial Use Only' making
some sense, as the hardener, in its raw state is very nasty.
But, having said that, so is any of the crap you can buy off the shelf
at any Borg. You eat a tube of 5-minute Epoxy and you won't feel well
shortly thereafter.

In terms of working with it?

There are two classifications of solid surface material. Acrylic and
polyester. (And a few 'alloys')

Polyester can be very beautiful (Avonite Studio Collection comes to
mind) Others can be very badly manufactured. There are a lot of
'Fly-By-Night' operations that basically pour a chemical soup (like
Bondo Automotive filler) with some coloured aquarium gravel and cheap
dyes into a pan and call it solid surface. Some of those formulations
never really cure and 'off-gas' for months after installation and
sometimes they off-gas every time sunlight hits them causing many of
them to discolour over time... whites turn yellow. The stuff is brittle,
it cracks easily and cannot be thermoformed.
Avonite Studio and Formica Alloys are the exceptions because those guys
have done their homework and cure their products properly over
controlled temperatures and time.

Acrylics are more difficult to manufacture and are not likely to be done
by questionable operators. The mineral -filled (AHA) acrylics are
slightly softer, hence more flexible, less prone to cracking. The
players are usually 'big guns', like Wilsonart, Samsung Staron, DuPont
Corian, Meganite, Dovae, Aristech. Avonite (also has a polyester line
because some intense colours cannot be made with acrylics. Check out
their incredible Studio Collection. At $1000.00 per sheet, it better be
pretty, huh? I fabricate a fair bit of Goldmine, K3-8495)

When starting out, I suggest you stick to acrylics. The adhesive
(cohesion) technology is superior to polyester (adhesion).
Most quality router bits and saw blades can handle the acrylics.The
polyesters are more abrasive. (Stuff stinks too..like body shop)
A lot of the polyesters don't have the fire-rating most codes require.

http://www.issfa.net/
http://pinske-edge.com/
http://www.monumenttoolworks.com/pages/parallign.htm

issfa offers a course, after which you are pretty much required to buy
certain equipement if you want any distributor to see that you can
deliver the standards they have set for themselves. Dust-free sanding in
the customer's home is about nuisance, not health...although it is
common sense to keep even the most harmless dust out of your pipes.

(I am an authorized fabricator by all the major players including
DuPont. I also teach.)

0¿0

Rob

www.topworks.ca

Ray:

Since my original post, I have found several sites with info:
Google a corian art, and corian turning

but be sure to try
http://www.bgartforms.com/
and
http://stonewood.safeshopper.com/


Phil